Year: 2016

I’m in the Cinque Terre off-season, so most of the time it’s been sane and mercifully quiet. And yet, everyone keeps telling me how catastrophic the crowds can be in peak season. I thought they were exaggerating…until a three-day holiday weekend hit. Saturday was a downpour, which kept all of the day-trippers at home. But Sunday was glorious. Ant it seemed like everyone in Italy woke up with the same idea: Let’s go to the Cinque Terre!

Stepping onto the train platform around noon, I saw hundreds of people milling around, waiting for (delayed) trains in both directions. It was a mob scene. Cruise passengers — with their cruise-line-logo stickers and their whisper-system earbuds — stuck close to their guides, in big packs along the platform. Individual travelers did their best to weave through the crowds, filling in little gaps.

And then the train came.

Bedlam. The train was full. A few people got off. And everybody wanted on. People pushed and pulled their travel partners into the tiny alcoves by the doors. I slipped in. I saw a tour guide at the door of the train, shouting to his group with exaggerated calm: “Don’t worry. Don’t worry. Just pooosh your way in. Pooosh in. I will be the last one.” Suddenly an elderly woman behind me started howling. “This is scary! I’m getting crushed! I’m getting crushed!” Finally the last person pooshed their way onto the train, we all inhaled deeply, the doors shimmied shut, and we were on our way to Monterrosso — where, five minutes later, the entire contents of the train disgorged onto the platform at once, creating yet another logjam. The whole experience felt less like a vacation, and more like some bizarre, self-imposed refugee crisis.

When I mentioned this to local friends, they confirmed that this happens from time to time. More than one told me, “It’s only a matter of time before somebody gets pushed onto the tracks, and get hurt…or worse.”

In short, these people are ruining the Cinque Terre:

In the more than a week I spent on the Cinque Terre during this shoulder season, this situation was unusual. But locals assure me that in peak season, it’s anything but.

Let me be clear: I’m not saying to avoid the Cinque Terre. It’s a glorious place that should, by all means, be visited. But if you’re coming in peak season, expect a few uncomfortable mob scenes — and take crowd-beating advice seriously. For next year’s guidebook, I’ve assembled these new tips:

Crowd-Beating Tips in the Cinque Terre

Italy’s undiscovered slice of traffic-free Riviera…has been discovered. The big news in recent years is the dramatic influx of crowds, which are frustrating both locals and conscientious visitors. And the biggest problem seems to be groups — whether day-trippers from Florence or other parts of central Italy, or cruises that bring thousands of tourists to La Spezia and Genoa. Things reached a head in early 2016, when national park officials leaked a proposal to strictly limit the number of visitors here each day. Even though they walked back that claim days later, it’s clear that the overcrowding is a problem that needs to be addressed. Until the authorities get their act together, here are some tips. First and most importantly…

Time your visit carefully. The busiest months are May, June, and September, while July and August are still quite busy. Shoulder season — April and October — can be a great time to visit (cooler temperatures for hiking, though it’s typically too cold to swim)…but be warned that good-weather holiday weekends (Easter, Italian Liberation Day on April 25) can bring peak-season crowds. And nice weekends any time of year can bring day-trippers from around Italy.

If you can’t avoid being here at a busy time, here are a few strategies:

Make the most of your time early and late. The cruisers and day-trippers start pouring in to the Cinque Terre around 10:00, and are typically headed out by 18:00 (if not earlier). That leaves you plenty of daylight hours to enjoy far less crowded towns, trains, and trails. Those mid-day hours are the time to hit the beach, write postcards, find a back-streets bar to nurse a glass of Sciacchetrà, or maybe find a hike away from the main thoroughfares. Locals say starting a hike at 5 p.m. rather than 2 p.m. makes a world of difference. At mid-day, the main coastal trail is a hot human traffic jam, as long columns of hikers attempt to pass each other on the steep and narrow steps. But early and late, you’ll enjoy cooler temperatures and far fewer crowds — and if you hike before 9:00 or after 19:00, you won’t have to pay admission for the national park trails. (Just be clear on the sunset time and how long the hike will take — the trails are not lit and can be treacherous after dark.)

Sleep in the Cinque Terre towns — not nearby. While nearby Levanto or La Spezia are close and well-connected by train, it’ll be easier to enjoy the Cinque Terre early and late if you’re actually sleeping there. I’d rather skip town during the day and come back when it’s quiet and cool, rather than vice versa — even if I have to pay a premium for my accommodations.

Escape to alternative trails and towns. If you get wind that it’ll be a busy cruise day, consider simply getting out of town. There are plenty of hikes beyond the busy coastal trail. Get local advice, and be sure to take advantage of the shuttle buses that connect each town’s center to remote trailheads where you’ll scarcely see another tourist. (One great resource, clearly outlining a variety of excellent options for experienced and properly outfitted hikers, is www.sciacchetrail.com.) If you’d like to hit the beach but Monterosso’s is a human parking lot, hop the train a few minute to Levanto, rent a bike, and pedal on a level path to the delightful (and far less crowded) beach at Bonassola. Then head back to the Cinque Terre for an evening hike or dinner, just as the crowds are thinning out.

Figure out alternative, crowd-free activities. When the towns and trails are jammed, find something fun to do that’s off the beaten path. For example, do a wine-tasting or get a massage (in our book, we recommend options for each of these in both Vernazza and Monterosso).

Be careful on the train platforms. The trains — and especially the platforms — can be a perfect storm of crowds, particularly when trains in opposite directions pull in at the same time. It can feel downright dangerous on the platforms on very busy days, and locals predict that it’s only a matter of time before someone gets hurt or worse. If you can’t simply avoid the trains at peak times, be cautious. Spread out along the platform (and, in Vernazza, even up the tunnel) in the hopes of finding a less-crowded compartment. (This sounds like a no-brainer, but it’s remarkable how many people decide to clump along the middle of the platform.) The real problem on the platforms are the groups, which attempt to jam 40 or 50 people into a train all at once. If you see a group along the platform, do your best to find a different place to wait.

Hire your own boat. The regularly scheduled, high-capacity boats can be a good (and far more scenic) alternative to the trains — but they can also be jammed. If it’s simply miserably crowded, why not hire your own boat to zip you to your next town? Captains hang out at the harbors in Vernazza, Monterosso, Riomaggiore, and Manarola, offering a one-way transfer to any other town. It’s cheaper than you might think: €30-50 depending on the destination (very affordable when split among three or four travelers). You can also rent your own boat in Monterosso. While a bit of a splurge, this is both efficient transportation and a welcome escape from the crowds.

Finally, here’s what I’ll say to people coming on a cruise: Look, I get it. I like cruising. As a matter of fact, I’ve been on several cruises, collaborated with Rick Steves on two guidebooks about cruising in Europe, and would recommend a cruise for people who have a certain travel style and philosophy. But in the Cinque Terre, it just doesn’t work. That’s because most cruise passengers come to the five villages on package excursions. And trying to jam a group of 40 or 50 people from an already-crowded platform onto an already-crowded train is no fun. I actually feel sorry for people who come on a cruise and are sold shore excisions by their cruise lines — who know full well that they are dooming these people to the worst possible Cinque Terre experience. Selling cruise excursions to the Cinque Terre isn’t just bad business. I believe it’s unethical.

As Rick says in our Italy guidebook: Come to the Cinque Terre. But do it on your own, when you have the freedom to move around as you please — not following the color-coded umbrella of a hired-gun guide-for-the-day whose only interest is showing you the obligatory sights, then getting you back to your ship on time. (That’s why, on the many Rick Steves Tours that include a stop on the Cinque Terre region, we include a very clear orientation, then free time — allowing our tour members to do it their way.)

If you are coming to the Cinque Terre on a cruise, do yourself (and the rest of us) a favor, and instead take a side-trip to Pisa and Lucca — which are totally enjoyable in their own right…and far more capable of dealing with big crowds.

In the region to update the Rick Steves Italy guidebook, I’ve gotten the latest scoop on the Cinque Terre. Here’s a sneak preview of what you’ll find in the next edition of our book…before it’s even fresh off the press.

Crowds.  Looking up from my breakfast croissant at an al fresco café in the sleepy town of Manarola, I saw this surprise tidal wave of humanity rushing down the main street. The Cinque Terre has gone from “undiscovered” to “manageably popular” to “borderline miserably crowded.” Locals report that the biggest headaches are caused by day-trippers and cruises: packs of 40 or 50 people desperately trying to stay together with a guide as they pile on and off of the trains. This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t come to the Cinque Terre — just that you should expect crowds — and take crowd-beating tips very seriously. The most important strategies come down to timing: If possible, try to visit in the quiet months of April or October instead of the busy months of June or September. But if you can’t avoid being here during peak times, be aware that crowds on the trains and trails will be worst mid-day. Before about 10:00 or after about 18:00, you’ll have the place to yourself. Stay in one of the Cinque Terre towns, hike early or late, and plan to hit the beach (such as in Bonassola, described later) or find a lesser-known trail when the cruise passengers are in town.

Train Changes. It was recently reported that the Cinque Terre rail line was the only profitable line operated by the Italian Railways. And so, in perfect Italian fashion, they decided to monkey around with it. Starting just a few weeks ago, Trenitalia is running the “5 Terre Express” — departures on a predictable schedule every 30 minutes between Levanto and La Spezia, with stops in each of the Cinque Terre towns. The results have been mixed: Trains are often delayed by 5 or 10 minutes. And, because other fast trains also use these same tracks, the increased frequency can create ripples and lead to more delays and more cancellations. Locals grumble that overall, there are fewer options for connecting to destinations beyond the Cinque Terre without a time-consuming transfer. And anecdotally, the new schedule has failed to address the single biggest issue: the crowds at peak times. It remains to be seen whether the new timetable will stick. In other news, Trainitalia plans to start gouging tourists who take the Cinque Terre trains: Starting in mid-May, it will cost €4 per ride between CT towns, whether you’re going one town or four. (Locals will still pay the old price, which is about half that much.)

A Taste of Opera. Little Vernazza now has its own summer opera series, where a big-name maestro from Lucca brings talented singers to town twice weekly to show off to an appreciative audience. Performances fill the small oratory tucked behind the town’s big church (find the steps up and around, next to Ananasso Bar), which was beautifully restored specifically for this purpose. The program typically consists of several arias — both crowd-pleasers and deep cuts — by mostly Italian composers (lots of Puccini). The performances begin at 19:00 and last about an hour and a quarter — strategically timed to squeeze between a late-afternoon aperitivo on the harbor and a 20:30 dinner reservation (€13 in advance or €15 at the door, April-Oct Wed and Fri at 19:00, book tickets at Cinque Terre Riviera office at #24 on the main street, tel. 0187-812-123, info@cinqueterreriviera.com).

Bonassola. I’m putting together a “crowd-beating tips” section for the next edition of the book. So I asked every local their favorite way to escape the crowds on busy days. One word kept coming up: Bonassola. It’s a charming little beach town just north of the Cinque Terre, an easy walk or pedal from Levanto. He’s my write-up for the upcoming book:
The small beach resort of Bonassola (boh-nah-SOH-lah, pop. 950) swirls like a peaceful little eddy, tucked just off the main train line on the cove north of Levanto. As far as Riviera beach resorts go, Bonassola is a Back Door gem. With a low-key vibe, a tidy grid street plan that feels almost French, and a picturesque dark-sand beach hemmed in by jagged bluffs, it’s worth considering as an alternative to other beaches in the area (including the Cinque Terre’s small, overcrowded, and — frankly — underwhelming beaches). And the next best thing to a beach day in Bonassola is getting there: A level, easy, rails-to-trails path cuts through the mountain from Levanto — enjoyable by foot, but even better by bike.

Getting There: Local trains run between Levanto and Bonassola (hourly, 3 minutes — these require a change from the Cinque Terre line). But I’d rather take the promenade. At the northern end of Levanto’s elevated beachfront road/parking lot, you’ll find a level, 2-km path neatly divided into bike and pedestrian lanes. Most of the route is through well-lit former train tunnels, with brief breaks overlooking the sea (and hikes down to secluded beaches). The walk takes about 25 minutes, with long stretches through the tunnels (at least it’s a cool break from the heat); but by bike, it’s less than 10 minutes.
Orientation: Bonassola’s beach is separated from the town center by its elevated road (shared by bikes, walkers, and a parking lot). The inviting beach has mostly private sections, with a few free/public areas. The town itself — with manicured promenades and piazzas — is worth exploring. [$$] Caffe delle Rose, facing the elevated road, has good gelato, food, and drinks. Several foccacerie and other eateries cluster at the far end of town.

For a scenic walk/hike, head to the far end of the beach, where a promenade snakes along the base of the rocky cliff (with rocky perches for sunbathing and swimming). For higher views, find the stairs up near the flagpole, then follow the steps up on the right side of the yellow church. Popping out at the top, turn left along the scenic, private road as it curls around the top of the bay, with great views back on the town and beach; you can take it to the end of the road, the blocky little chapel of Madonnina della Punta.

Optional Continuation (Best for Bikers): From Bonassola, the path continues another 3 km to the town of Framura — a settlement made up of five hamlets scattered across the hillside. Because this part of the route is almost entirely through tunnels, it’s boring for walkers — but quick for bikers. You’ll pop out overlooking Framura’s rocky little harbor, behind its train station (no direct access — don’t count on taking your bike back on the train). Hike down to the harbor, or up to the village — or simply enjoy the views, then turn around and pedal back to Bonassola and Levanto.

 

For years, I’ve gotten a kick out of this quintessentially Rick Steves line in our Italy guidebook: “If you think of the Cinque Terre as the Beatles, Corniglia is Ringo.”

The Cinque Terre is — as its name (“five lands”) implies — a string of five little villages on the Italian Riviera. But they’re more than just variations on a theme. Each one has its own strong personality — and the more you get to know them, the more different they seem.

Inspired by Rick’s throwaway joke, I have long pondered which Beatle each of the other Cinque Terre towns would be.  Here’s my take:

Monterosso = Paul

Glitzy and crowd-pleasing. A beach resort with something for everyone. But perhaps lacking some of the artsy romance of the others: More practical. Mainstream. “Safe.” And the most commercially viable on its own.

Vernazza = John

Probably the most poetic…and, perhaps, the most troubled. Has its peppy, fun-loving side and its brooding, soulful side. While people may have more easy enjoyment in Monterosso, at the end of the day, Vernazza is the one that really sticks with them.

Corniglia = Ringo

Small. Scruffy. A bit less pretty. And the only one not on the water. Let’s be honest: It’s really just a hill town. A perfectly nice hill town…but a hill town. Can it be a true Cinque Terre town without a real harbor? (Side note: A case could be made that Corniglia is actually Yoko. But I’m not buying it.)

Manarola = George

Mellow. Under the radar. But, if you’re patient with it, it’s every bit as beautiful as the others…if not more so. It has real substance, and very little drama. (Side note: Manarola is secretly my favorite Cinque Terre town, but George is not necessarily my favorite Beatle. Very strange.)

Riomaggiore = ???

This one’s tricky, and not just because there were only four Beatles. Riomaggiore sits out on the edge of things, the closest thing to a “normal ” city (that happens to have a colorful Cinque Terre harbor). The real world looms just beyond — and in a sense, Riomaggiore is the bridge to gritty reality. It’s more concerned with business than fun. So, is Riomaggiore Pete Best? Stuart Sutcliffe? Yoko Ono? No, my vote is for superproducer George Martin, who shaped the Beatles’ sound more than some full-on members (ahem, Ringo) and served as a liaison between the Beatles’ talent and the music biz.

That’s my take. Yours may differ, based on your feelings about the Cinque Terre towns…and the Beatles. Feel free to weigh in with your choices in the comments. (And if you are one of those people who believes that Ringo is an underappreciated genius, and that Shining Time Station was a stealth masterpiece of postmodern media…I’ve already had that conversation, and frankly, I don’t intend to have it again.)

I just arrived in Europe for another busy guidebook research trip. My first stop: Italy’s Cinque Terre.

Approaching in a stiff wind, Genoa’s little airport provides a hard landing — both on the runway, and out at the curb, where I cram into an overstuffed bus for the trip into the train station. A jet-lagged zombie, I somehow survive the ride and make my way onto the right train…where everyone in my compartment is toting the same guidebook. The Cinque Terre truly is Rick Steves country.

At the Monterosso train station, I step out into invigorating sunshine and follow the beachfront promenade to the Old Town and my hotel. It’s still April, but people are already out at the beach…luxuriating on the fine pebbles. A few little kids are brave enough to go for a swim. Even in the warm sun, I shiver vicariously.

While the New Town beach is open for business, the Old Town beach is still preparing for the coming season. Two burly bulldozers are clearing sand and pebbles, creating a path for where the village’s underground river empties into the sea. After their devastating 2011 flood, Monterosso knows to take the power of nature seriously.

Checked in and showered, but still not quite fully “in Europe,” I stroll through Monterosso. Kids are out playing soccer on the piazza in front of the church. The waterfront restaurants are starting to fill up, even though at this time of year, you can’t see the sunset from here. Sore-kneed hikers — with their shorts, sporty backpacks, and hiking poles — are trickling down the steep steps from the clifftop trail, just having hiked over the bluff from neighboring Vernazza. Periodically, a train rockets through town on the elevated tracks, briefly —but only briefly — shattering the serenity.

It’s breakfast time at home and dinnertime here, but either way, I’m starving. Choosing a seaview restaurant without a reservation (one of the many benefits to traveling in shoulder season), I settle in for a meal of all the Ligurian classics: anchovies prepared a dozen different ways…but none of them really all that good. A big dish of trofie — the dense, chewy, slightly potatoey local pasta twists — with vivid-green pesto (which tops everything here, from pasta to bruschetta to foccacia…another local specialty). And for dessert, biscotti dunked in the sweet local wine, Sciacchetrà.

Travelers get into routines. And as I enjoy this meal with this view, it sinks in that this is just the beginning of my trip. For the next several days, I’ll be enjoying these same flavors and these same views as I explore Monterosso, the four neighboring towns, and the rugged trails, train rides, and boat rides between them…living a lifestyle I think of as “La Vita Cinqueterre.” It’s good to be back.