Europe’s Best Museums? They Have a Type.

What are the best museums and sights in Europe? Or, more specifically, what are the best types of sights?

I’m wrapping up guidebook research after spending 10 weeks on the road, split over three trips in Spain, Morocco, England, Denmark, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Hungary. Looking back, I realize that most of my favorite sightseeing experiences fall into a few categories that go beyond the predictable churches, castles, monuments, and big-name art museums. And so, I brainstormed this admittedly subjective list: not just a roundup of my personal favorite sightseeing in 2025, but also a broad-strokes look at five categories of sights that I find especially rewarding.

Whether you’re planning a trip to these destinations, or looking for inspiration for a trip anywhere, I hope these “types of sights” encourage you to consider some attractions that might, at first glance, be easy to overlook — but that merit some of your limited time.

1. The Endearing Local History Museum

In the sweet town of Keswick, deep in England’s bucolic Lake District, there are two options for a rainy day: Hike and get wet… or find something indoors. I opted for the latter and visited the Keswick Museum, which fills a historic Arts and Crafts-style hall in a lush park. I was unexpectedly charmed by how this place harnesses a chipper community spirit to make the story of this small town surprisingly engaging.

While modest, the Keswick Museum is more than the sum of its parts. It features a well-curated assortment of local artifacts, from a surveyor’s gigantic 1825 relief map of the Lake District (suspended on the wall) to a variety of items relating to the flourishing of Keswick as a tourist destination (including the earliest known guidebook to the town, from the early 1910s). The highlight? “Musical stones”: naturally resonant chunks of slate that someone has whittled down to the perfect tone, then set up as a xylophone for playing tunes. There’s also a gallery where museum volunteers take turns researching and installing their own temporary exhibits. How delightful!

Sure, they ain’t the Louvre or the Prado. But wonderful local history museums around Europe, when done well, can really bring a place vividly to life. Some, like Keswick, are in small towns or even villages. One of my favorites is the Herring Era Museum in Seyðisfjörður, Iceland, which explains how that little fish revolutionized not only the local economy, but made Iceland a financially viable independent nation. I’ve also enjoyed the one in Zermatt, Switzerland; the scrappy hilltop museum on the isle of Folegandros, Greece; and the Appenzell regional museums in the towns of Appenzell, Stein, and Urnäsch, Switzerland.

Others are in big cities, designed to help visitors get their heads around the local identity and the role that place played in the story of Europe. Excellent ones are in Zagreb, Croatia; Lausanne, Switzerland; Liverpool and Bristol, England; the Bryggen Museum in Bergen, Norway; the Musée Basque in Bayonne; and the Riverside Museum in Glasgow, Scotland.

2. The Single-Artist Museum

While wide-ranging art museums can be delightful, I find myself especially drawn to a museum devoted entirely to one artist, often displayed in the home in which they actually lived. In England’s Lake District, William Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage and Beatrix Potter’s Hill Top Farm both had me imagining the writer hunched over a desk, creating their masterpieces.

In Hungary’s Szentendre — just up the Danube from Budapest — I enjoyed getting to know the expressive, poignant sculptures of Margit Kovács.

In Córdoba and Ronda, Spain, I marveled at the works of two talented artists I’d never heard of before: Julio Romero de Torres and Joaquín Peinado, respectively.

On past trips to France, Albi’s Toulouse-Lautrec Museum deepened my appreciation of the works of an artist I only thought I was familiar with. And the former home of Claude Monet in Giverny, France, is a pilgrimage for lovers of his works, who stroll through the lily-padded gardens that inspired him.

The best example I visited in 2025 (and one of the best anywhere) is the National Trust’s tours of the childhood homes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney. After meeting at a suburban Liverpool train station, your small group hops on a minibus for the short drive to each house, where you’re welcomed by an impressively well-versed docent who does an insightful intro chat, then sets you free to roam the same halls, kitchens, bedrooms, and loos where two of history’s greatest songwriters spent their formative years. Not really a Beatles fan? The homes also provide wonderful social-historical insights into the everyday lives of working-class Liverpudlians in the 1950s. This remarkable experience combines being in proximity to tangible details — the pinups over John’s boyhood bed, the well-worn piano in Paul’s living room — with gaining a strikingly intimate understanding of two boys, becoming young men, who would change the world. For example, I learned that both Paul and John had lost their mothers at a very young age — perhaps providing them with an unspoken kinship that sustained their fruitful, fitful collaboration.

Another mind-blowing “one artist” museum I visited this year was the Robert Capa Center in Budapest, Hungary. I knew little about the Budapest-born photographer, but after spending an hour and a half here, I am a fan. Like a mid-20th-century Forrest Gump, Robert Capa traveled the world during one of its most tumultuous eras — documenting the Spanish Civil War, the First Sino-Japanese War, the Allied campaigns in North Africa and Sicily, the D-Day landings at Omaha Beach, the liberation of France, the creation of Israel, and the early days of postwar communism in Hungary and the USSR. He also snapped intimate slice-of-life portraits of Picasso, Matisse, Hemingway, Ingmar Bergman, and many others. The museum displays Capa’s most iconic images and tells the improbable life story of this eyewitness to history.

My all-time-favorite “one artist” home is devoted to an architect that many have never heard of: Jože Plečnik, who reshaped the Slovenian capital (and his hometown), Ljubljana, and also carried out major works in Prague, Vienna, and other cities. Still furnished with unique, Plečnik-designed furniture, one-of-a-kind inventions, and favorite souvenirs from his travels, the Jože Plečnik House paints an indelible and unusually intimate portrait of an artist.

Yet more “one artist” museums to consider around Europe: the Seidel Photo Studio Museum, in the Czech town of Český Krumlov; the Rodin Museum in Paris; the Salvador Dalí sights outside of Barcelona (Cadaqués and Figueres); the Ivan Meštrović Museum in Split, Croatia; the Charles Rennie Mackintosh House at Glasgow University in Scotland; the Rembrandt House Museums in both Amsterdam and Leiden, Netherlands; the Hans Christian Andersen House in Odense, Denmark; the Mozart sights in Salzburg, Austria; the Albrecht Dürer homes in Nürnberg and Wittenberg, Germany; Edvard Grieg’s Troldhaugen, just outside of Bergen, Norway; and The Secession in Vienna, with its Gustav Klimt paintings and distinctive “golden cabbage” dome.

3. The Single-Topic “Deep Dive” Museum

Some museums are a mile wide and an inch deep — trying to cover too much territory and doing none of it well. Many of my favorites take precisely the opposite approach: going all-in on a single, extremely narrow topic, probing the depths of all its fascinating details. (Of course, you could put most of the “single artist” museums, above, into this category as well.)

One of the best in this vein is the magnificent Vasa Museum in Stockholm, Sweden. The entire museum is literally and thematically built around a single item: the massive warship Vasa, which sunk to the bottom of Stockholm Harbor 40 minutes into her 1628 maiden voyage. More than three centuries later, the ship was rediscovered, raised from the deep, refurbished, and became the centerpiece of a state-of-the-art museum that tells the whole story and gets you prow-to-prow with the Vasa herself.

This summer, in charming Ribe, Denmark, I stumbled upon a museum devoted to hometown boy Jacob Riis (1849-1914). Despite the ticket-seller’s assertion that Riis was the most important Danish-American of all time, I was embarrassed to admit that I knew nothing about him. The exhibit set me straight, eloquently telling the tale of this Danish émigré who documented the plight of the desperately poor — mostly immigrants — who lived in the squalor of New York City’s tenements (and eventually published a seminal exposé, How the Other Half Lives). It was inspiring to learn how, by harnessing and pioneering the rapidly evolving medium of photojournalism, Riis brought about reforms that improved the wretched lives of the people he documented. Riis also became close friends with President Theodore Roosevelt, who called him both “the most useful citizen of New York” and “the ideal American.”

Sometimes that “single topic” is unexpected, even startling. The Museum of Broken Relationships, in the Croatian capital of Zagreb, displays a variety of items that each come with a complicated story of a now-defunct relationship — from a love-at-first-sight romance that burned out, to the loss of a dear friend or parent, to becoming disillusioned with a favorite politician. Touching, witty, and incredibly human, this museum is a good reminder to take a chance on sights that may seem quirky at first blush.

Thinking back on other examples of the “deep dive” style of museum, I realize the Netherlands is particularly adept at this approach: In Amsterdam, you have the famous Anne Frank House, of course, but also a Pipe Museum, a Houseboat Museum, and a Museum of Canals, while nearby Leiden has the Pilgrim Museum. Ireland also has a knack for these, from the Irish Wake Museum in Waterford to the Irish National Famine Museum in Strokestown to 14 Henrietta Street in Dublin; the Titanic Belfast Museum straddles this category and the next one. Others to watch for: the Paris Sewer Museum; the Viking ship museums in both Oslo, Norway, and Roskilde, Denmark (plus Oslo’s Kon-Tiki Museum); the Musical Instruments Museum in Brussels; the Olympics Museum in Lausanne, Switzerland; and some that are just plain bizarre, including the Phallological (Penis) Museum in Reykjavík and the Currywurst Museum in Berlin.

4. The High-Tech History Museum

Increasingly, history museums employ clever, high-tech innovations — location-sensing audioguides, sound and lighting effects, wrap-around films, interactive features — to bring to life a complicated or murky bit of history. Frankly, I’m on the fence about this trend: All too often, the whiz-bang gizmos act as a crutch, distracting from the thinness of the actual information. But when combined with impressive artifacts, compelling storytelling, and a clear point of view, these high-tech history museums can be mind-blowing.

Case in point: This summer I toured the stunning Moesgård Museum, just outside of Aarhus, Denmark. The museum was long famous as the home of the Grauballe Man, a remarkably well-preserved Iron Age corpse that was discovered in a nearby peat bog. In 2014, the Moesgård opened a gigantic new purpose-built building with a mission as grandiose as its architecture: combining astonishing artifacts — from prehistoric stone tools and mysterious barrows, to the Grauballe Man, to a perfectly preserved Viking boat — with evocative storytelling and high-tech methodology to create a powerful experience that kindles an appreciation not only for the story of prehistoric peoples in Jutland, but for human evolution in broad strokes. There are also two sprawling galleries hosting temporary exhibits that are at least as good as the permanent one. It instantly became one of my favorite museums, anywhere.

Another favorite is the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN), in Warsaw, Poland. Built on the site of the onetime Jewish quarter, POLIN is architecturally striking in itself. Inside, it employs a combination of thoughtful storytelling and state-of-the-art presentation to make the absolute most of the scant few artifacts that survive from what was once a flourishing culture. While so many Jewish-themed sights around Europe focus narrowly on the Holocaust, POLIN takes an expansive and enlightening approach to the entire Jewish experience in Poland.

Many of these high-tech history museums focus on one historical era — often World War II, including the Caen Memorial Museum in Normandy, France; the Museum of the Second World War in Gdańsk, Poland; and the Uprising Museum in Warsaw. The museum at the Culloden Battlefield, just outside of Inverness, Scotland, is one of the best of this type. Others are broader in their focus, including the German History Museum in Berlin and the Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum) in Zürich. And some of the museums described earlier (including the Vasa Museum) could slip into this category, as well.

Artifacts; storytelling; high-tech exhibits: A museum that does all three equally well is rare. But when they hit — they really hit.

5. The Cross-Cultural Structure

Europe’s epic history is the story of successive civilizations layering one upon the other. Often, while a few artifacts survive from centuries past, most of what you see today dates from one or two discrete historical periods. But a few sights manage to capture a broader swath of history in stone, by simultaneously embodying starkly different civilizations in one cohesive structure.

The prime example of this is one of my favorite sights in all of Europe: the Mezquita in Córdoba, Spain. This gigantic structure — a massive box, 400 feet by 600 feet — began as a low-lying Moorish-style mosque, built around 785. Strolling through seemingly endless rows of 800 columns (spanned by graceful double arches), you feel you’ve stepped back to the age of Al-Andalus, when Córdoba was the capital of a sprawling Muslim realm.

But then you turn a corner and — bam! — you’re transported into an entirely different time and place: a towering 16th-century Catholic Baroque cathedral, stretching 130 feet into the air, that was built within that original mosque.

In Split, Croatia, the entire town center (filling the former halls of a Roman palace) gives you this same sensation of “layers of history” — especially the cathedral that sits upon Peristyle Square. The hulking, octagonal hall that forms the core of this building was originally the mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who was born nearby, retired right here, and notoriously tortured many Christians. But the frilly Venetian-style bell tower — and the rich golden decor inside — make it clear that those pagan Romans were soon supplanted by the Catholic Venetians, and later Croatians, who retrofitted Split to their own specifications.

In Pécs, Hungary, the main square is topped by another such structure. The Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque — originally built during a period of Ottoman control in the 1540s — was later turned into a Catholic parish church (the Church of the Blessed Virgin). Today, its classic mosque architecture is still evident, and upon stepping inside, you observe a hybrid of Muslim and Catholic symbols and styles: striped arches over windows; a large prayer niche (mihrab) with a crucifixion above it; colorful Islamic-style stalactite decorations; and dome paintings that combine Christian angels with the geometric designs of Islam. On the wall is a verse from the Quran, translated into Hungarian and used for Christian worship — a reminder that, as fellow “people of the book,” Muslims and Christians share many of the same foundational principles.

Tangier — Morocco’s closest point to Europe — is another prime spot for these “cultural hybrid” sights. Just off the main square, you escape from the bustle of rumbling delivery vans and buzzing motor scooters into the tranquil garden courtyard surrounding St. Andrew’s Anglican Church — built on land that the sultan offered as a gift to Queen Victoria. There you’re greeted by gregarious Yassin, who wishes “peace be upon you” as he explains how, while the church’s architecture is mostly Islamic, it’s Christian in spirit: The Lord’s Prayer rings the arch in Arabic, as verses of the Quran would in a mosque.

Sometimes it’s not a building but a location. In the heart of old Sarajevo, at the precise point where Sarači street becomes Ferhadija street, you can look in one direction and swear you were in Istanbul, with its cobbles and market stalls; looking the other way, you could easily be in Vienna, with broad pedestrian boulevards and grand Austrian-style architecture.

And speaking of Istanbul, the ultimate example of a “cross-cultural” sight surely must be the Hagia Sophia: an early Christian church, later turned into a mosque, so influential that it became a template for many other mosques across the Ottoman Empire (including the one in today’s Pécs).

All of these sights are a reminder of the full complexity of Europe’s story — and of how few of those layers we actually see in our everyday travels… until we go looking for them.


What are some of your favorite museums in these categories? Or do you have favorite “categories” of sightseeing that I’m overlooking? Share your thoughts in the Comments.

Of course, all of the sights mentioned here — and so many more — are described in detail in our Rick Steves guidebooks.

If you’d like to hear more about my 2025 travels, join me on Zoom Monday, November 10 at 6 p.m. Pacific Time (that’s 9 p.m. Eastern) when I’ll be doing a virtual “Trip Report” for Monday Night Travel. It’s free, as long as you sign up in advance.

Balkans Travel Tips

Are you thinking of traveling to the Balkans? I have some tips for you!

Last September, I set out on a trip to fulfill a lifelong travel dream: To explore the Balkans, from top to bottom, weaving together eight European capitals overland. My “Balkan Odyssey” — from the Alps to the Aegean, and from Lake Bled in Slovenia to Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia — was the trip of a lifetime.

Now that I’m back, I recently presented a Monday Night Travel report about that unforgettable journey. You can watch it here.

Putting this talk together was a complete delight. It reminded me of how the Balkans is  a fascinating, gorgeous, friendly, and wonderfully undiscovered and affordable corner of Europe. But the relatively few American visitors translates to a lack of solid travel information. I’ve prepared this post as a complement to my presentation, to share my itinerary guidance, favorite local resources, and other tips for traveling in the Balkans.

General Tips and Logistics

In our age of “overtourism” and soaring prices, the Balkans may just be Europe’s best-kept secret. However, you can’t paint the entire region with a single, broad brush. Croatia and Slovenia are in a category all their own: With their famous beaches and mountains — and being well-established in the EU, Schengen open-borders zone, and Eurozone (both countries use the euro currency) — they are far more “mainstream,” crowded, and expensive. My recent trip, and my Monday Night Travel talk, focus on the other six countries, which are less known, less crowded, and less expensive: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Albania.

Here are a few general tips for traveling in the Balkans:

Sleeping: I used a wide variety of lodgings, ranging from simple, traditional guesthouses; to big, roomy, multi-room apartments (via Airbnb); to high-end boutique hotels. I rarely spent more than $100 a night, and often closer to $50. (Croatia, Slovenia, and coastal Montenegro, prices are at least double, and often much more at the famous coastal resorts.)

Eating: The Balkans may be Europe’s very best “budget foodie” destination. The local cuisine is rustic but utterly delicious. While each country has its own specialties, the Balkan region has similar elements, which may feel similar to what you think of as “Turkish” or “Greek” cuisine (since most of these areas spent centuries under Ottoman control). The handiest street food is burek, a savory phyllo-dough pastry typically filled with meat, cheese, or spinach. I begin each meal with a šopska salata — chopped cucumbers and tomatoes with a soft, salty cheese grated on top. Grilled meats are hugely popular, including minced-meat ćevapi (small link-like shape), pljeskavica (patty shape), and ćufte (meatball). These are often served with raw onions, the spreadable cheese called kajmak, and a flatbread called lepinje. The fanciest meal you can have is meat, potatoes, and other veggies slow-roasted under a metal baking lid called a peka or a sač. The region has many flavorful spreads, including ajvar (roasted red pepper and eggplant) and others that are similar to hummus or garlicky tzatziki. And every meal ends with a honey-drenched phyllo dough dessert — from baklava to kadaifi, and many more. The Balkans have a taste for unfiltered coffee (which you might think of as “Turkish coffee”), as well as variations on the firewater raki. Prices are low: A quick bite on the go rarely tops $5, and a sit-down meal might be $15-20 per person, including drinks. (As with other prices, double it — or more — in Slovenia, Croatia, and coastal Montenegro.)

Transportation: This is a real challenge, when planning a multi-country itinerary. Generally there are very good public-transit options within a country, but things become more complicated when you cross a border between two different, independent transit systems. Buses and trains are cheap but can be slow, with gaps in the schedule.

Driving: Renting a car is a tempting option, and gives you maximum flexibility, but two factors deserve careful consideration: First, while driving in places like Slovenia, Croatia, and much of Bosnia is roughly on par, difficulty-wise, with most of Europe (slick highways, well-marked roads, reasonable traffic), things get more challenging as you travel south. Albania, in particular, can be daunting for timid drivers. Country roads generally have light traffic, but there are lots of speed bumps; even small towns can come with loads of congestion (due to a lack of bypass roads); and fellow drivers can be, shall we say, erratic. And in towns and cities, all bets are off: Traffic laws are widely ignored, and lanes in historic town centers can be astonishingly narrow. In general, you’ll need to be a confident and capable driver, and make a point to drive defensively. Keep your head on a swivel and go with the flow.

International Driving: The other consideration for renting a car is the headache of trying to link up a multi-country itinerary. An “open-jaw” rental (picking up in one country, and dropping off in another) is convenient but often not possible, and always expensive. (I paid an extra $400 fee — about one-third the cost of my entire rental — to pick up in Skopje and drop off in Athens.) Returning to your starting point to drop off your car saves this fee, but between the mountainous landscape and roads of variable quality in this region, the miles don’t always come easy. Confirm with your rental agency that you’re allowed to drive in each and every country on your itinerary, which may come with a small extra cost (I paid an additional $10/day). You will need to have the “green card” (proof of insurance — essentially the car’s “passport”) and paperwork from the rental company that you’re allowed to cross. (Of the four borders I drove my car through, I was asked for this once.)

Hire a Driver: To fill the gaps — or even, potentially, for the entire trip — consider splurging on a private driver offering door-to-door service. While this can be expensive (figure at least $200/day, likely more), it makes things much easier, and it’s especially convenient if you’d like to stop to do some sightseeing along the way. I did this twice — between Sarajevo and Belgrade, with a stop at Srebrenica; and on the very long journey from Kotor, Montenegro, to Skopje, North Macedonia, to pick up my rental car — and I found it worth the expense to make the rest of my trip possible.

Borders: While crossing a border can be time-consuming, depending on traffic, it’s actually quite straightforward: Just wait in line, hand over your passport for a few seconds, and then often proceed to the next checkpoint to repeat the routine…and you’re on your way. Of the approximately 10 borders I crossed on this trip, I waited anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour or so. (Avoid very busy borders if you can, such as the one on the coastal road between Montenegro and Albania; in-the-know locals take the inland route instead, especially during peak vacation months.) Be sure to have your passport handy, along with your car’s “green card” (see above). Personally, I never felt in any way pressured to pay a bribe; given that the biggest delay was the line of cars in front of me, this wouldn’t have helped anyway.

Safety: I can only speak to this as a hardy male traveler. But my experience is that I feel at least as safe in any and all of these countries as I do anywhere in Europe. (You could make a very strong case that, from a personal safety standpoint, you’re much safer in Prishtinë or Belgrade than in Paris or Barcelona.) As anywhere, petty crime (from pickpockets to car theft) can be an issue, so keep your wits about you and secure your belongings. The US State Department has issued some advisories about a few of these countries (see the current list here). While worth knowing about and understanding, personally I take these advisories with a grain of salt. In recent months, Albania and North Macedonia have popped up on this list… as have Belgium, Denmark, and Spain. If there’s any heightened “risk” in these countries, it’s a history of political instability, which has the potential of flaring up from time to time; simply follow the news and be prepared to adapt your plans, in the unlikely event that troublesome protests or isolated scuffles pop up along your route.

Itinerary Ideas

With so many places to visit, and a wide variety of ways to connect them all together, there’s no one perfect Balkan itinerary. First, narrow down which countries you want to see. Then lace them together, with a sober reality check on how hard it might be to connect the dots (see the transportation quirks, above).

If you’re focusing on the more known, “mainstream” parts of the Balkans — Slovenia, Croatia, and a taste of Bosnia and Montenegro — consider this recommended itinerary. (This is very similar to our Best of the Adriatic in 14 Days Tour — a perfect way to see these popular destinations without having to do the planning yourself.)

However, the focus of my trip (and my Monday Night Travel talk) is getting off the beaten path. Specifically, my goal was visiting the eight Western Balkans capitals overland, with some interesting small-town and nature stops in between. For inspiration purposes, here’s how I connected those dots, in about three weeks.

I started my journey in Ljubljana, which wins my vote for the most charming, livable, and purely enjoyable small city in Europe. (With more time, you can side-trip to just about anything in Slovenia — from Lake Bled to the Julian Alps to the caves of the Karst).

From Ljubljana, it’s an easy train or bus trip to the Croatian capital of Zagreb. While Croatia’s coastline gets most of the tourist attention, Zagreb is a very enjoyable city, with lush parks, a charming old town, and excellent museums. You could linger in Croatia (see the suggested itinerary above). But in my case, I was eager to carry on deeper into the Balkans — so the capital was my only Croatian stop.

It’s a long day’s drive (or a fun and fascinating couple day’s road trip) from Zagreb through Bosnia-Herzegovina to Sarajevo. Worthwhile stops along the way include Banja Luka, Bosnia’s leading Serb city; the historic and extremely scenic town of Jajce, built upon waterfalls; and the fortified burg of Travnik.

Enjoy Sarajevo — really dig into what may be the Balkans’ single most beautiful, historic, interesting, moving, and purely enjoyable city. Consider side-tripping to the smaller town of Mostar (with its famous Old Bridge) and/or the poignant and powerful Yugoslav Wars genocide memorial at Srebrenica.

From there, it’s on to the Serbian capital, Belgrade, to dig into that bulky and fascinating metropolis. This is a great place to wander the people-jammed promenade to Kalemegdan (the park overlooking the confluence of the Sava and the Danube); visit the stunning interior of Sveti Sava; soak in some Yugo-history at the Museum of Yugoslavia, with Tito’s tomb; and try to finagle a visit to Tito’s famous Blue Train.

Speaking of trains: To head south, I opted to hop on the 10-hour scenic train through Serbia, then winding down through soaring Montenegrin mountains to Podgorica. (The train continues another 2 hours, all the way to Bar on the coast; for the full details on this very scenic train line, see this excellent article from the Man in Seat 61.)

Podgorica (formerly “Titograd”), Montenegro’s capital, has lots of Brutalist architecture; a tidy grid of planned streets, parks, and wide sidewalks; and the stunning Christ’s Resurrection church. From here, it’s a short drive to the Bay of Kotor, with its stunning wall of mountains enclosing a fjord and the fortified town of Kotor.

The next link in this itinerary — onward to Kosovo, via Albania — was the toughest part for me to figure out; I opted to hire a driver to make things easier.

Once in Kosovo, I enjoyed the capital of Prishtinë (with its “Newborn” monument, more Brutalist masterpieces, and delightful urban buzz); the historic Ottoman town of Prizren (with mosques, a hilltop fortress, and a classic stone bridge); and the rugged Accursed Mountains, which ruffle across three countries.

Also in Kosovo, I made a point to visit some of the important Serb landmarks within Kosovo, including three historic monasteries (Gračanica, Peć, and Visoki Dečani) and Gazimestan, the tower overlooking the historically charged battlefield of Kosovo Polje.

From Kosovo, it’s a quick drive south into North Macedonia and its capital, Skopje, with its mind-bending variety of “kitsch” from the Skopje 2014 initiative: grandiose buildings, countless statues and monuments, and broad squares… all of which are already falling into disrepair. Personally, I was more charmed by the bustling bazaar, across the river, which is one of the best in the Balkans.

After a quick stop in Tetovo to see the stunning Colorful Mosque, I lingered at Lake Ohrid — one of the world’s oldest and deepest lakes, along the border between North Macedonia and Albania. Its moody waters, historic churches (including the famous St. Jovan Kaneo), and pleasant resort-town bustle were a nice break between cities.

Then it was onward to Albania, which has recently been on the rise as a “budget beach break” destination.

I began in the capital city, Tiranë, which I found surprisingly cheerful and fresh-feeling, with enjoyable parks, generous squares, towering skyscrapers, and interesting museums (especially ones interrogating the legacy of the brutal communist dictator, Enver Hoxha).

Then I headed to the country’s fine mountain towns, each a warren of narrow, cobbled lanes huddled below a mighty fortress. Berat, the “city of a thousand windows,” was charming, but the real star is Gjirokastër, with its twisty and steep lanes weaving through its historic bazaar, and stunning views to the surrounding mountains.

From here, I side-tripped to a couple of those newly famous, up-and-coming beach resorts (about an hour’s drive away): Big, sprawling, concrete Sarandë; and smaller, dreamier Ksamil. Both had nice sandy beaches that were inviting on a sunny day. But the very crowded beaches, variable standard of accommodations, and noticeably lagging infrastructure made it clear that Albania’s tourism industry is still a work in progress. (Sadly, greedy hoteliers raised prices dramatically in anticipation of a busy 2024, which kept budget-minded travelers away and badly hampered the burgeoning tourism industry.) Nearby are the ancient ruins of Butrint.

Especially if you’re determined to really settle in and linger on the beach, you could flip this plan — sleep in Ksamil or Sarandë, and side-trip to Gjirokastër — but given the speedy nature of my trip, I was glad to circle back to settle in for another night at Gjirokastër, to soak in its charming atmosphere.

From here, I crossed the Greek border, and headed on to Meteora and Athens, to drop off my rental car and carry on to the islands. But if you had ample time — another week or two — you could make your trip a loop and take the coastal route home: Back up along the Albanian coast, around Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, then island-hop up Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast to Slovenia, where you began. Phew!

I’ll stress again that this is an ambitious, fast-paced plan, designed to briefly touch down in as many places as possible. But this spine may inspire to you select which part(s) of the Balkans most intrigue you, and do a deeper dive. Consider splitting it up over several trips.

Resources

For Croatia, Slovenia, and the highlights of Bosnia-Herzegovina (Sarajevo, Mostar) and Montenegro (Bay of Kotor), all you need is our Rick Steves Croatia and Slovenia guidebook.

If carrying on through the other six countries, top-quality print information is limited. I found Lonely Planet’s Western Balkans guidebook somewhat useful as a starting point for trip planning, but their on-the-ground coverage is sparse and, for my taste, their opinions are too generic and muddled to be useful in prioritizing stops.

For a deeper dive into each country, Bradt has the most generous coverage of these lands, with dedicated guidebooks on Kosovo; North Macedonia; and Albania. While insightful and useful at times, personally I found these a little too dense and dry for my once-over-lightly trip.

Much better than guidebooks, to really get local insight on these places, I recommend investing in hiring local guides. In most of these cities, you can spend a few hours with a great local guide for around $50 (again, double that — or more — for Croatia, Slovenia, and Montenegro). I found guides in a variety of ways, whether through personal recommendations from my friends in the region or by scouring online reviews until I found a guide or company that matched my travel philosophy. While I had a couple of duds, most of the guides I used were top-quality; I’ve noted some favorites below.

The single best resource I found for this trip was the Sarajevo-based tour company called Funky Tours. Thoughtfully run by Ema, they offer a variety of tools for Balkans-bound travelers, ranging from day trips out of Sarajevo (including an outstanding visit to Srebrenica); to multi-day package tours; to a consulting service for helping you sort out the details of your independent trip; to fully custom study tours, where you tell them what you’re looking for, and they take care of the rest. Based on the exceptional quality of their advice and contacts, I recommend them most highly if you’re looking to invest in some expert help in putting together your dream Balkans trip — especially if you’re heading to the southern part of this region, where clear resources are harder to come by.

And finally, below I’ve listed a country-by-country grab-bag of the resources and other leads I personally found most useful in each place. This is just the tip of the iceberg; my sense is that there are wonderful guides, tour operators, hotels, and contacts all over the Balkans, but it can be challenging to find just the right ones for your trip. (Note: While some of the local guides have email addresses or even websites, many of them communicate primarily through messaging on WhatsApp; in these cases, I’ve given their phone numbers below.) Use this list as a starting point, and if you have any personal favorites in this area, let me know in the Comments, below.

Croatia and Slovenia: All of my best tips and leads are in our Rick Steves Croatia and Slovenia guidebook.

Bosnia-Herzegovina: Our Rick Steves Croatia and Slovenia guidebook covers this area, as well, but I’ll call out a couple of favorite guides: In Sarajevo, Funky Tours (noted above) offer excellent side-trips, including a well-designed side-trip to Srebrenica. Amir Telibećirović is a local guide who’s been partnering with us in Sarajevo for years (teleamir@gmail.com). In Mostar, Alma Elezović is a great guide (aelezovic@gmail.com), and her husband Ermin is a driver for trips around Bosnia (elezovicermin@gmail.com). By the way, if visiting Srebrenica — or even if you’re just curious about that harrowing chapter of the Yugoslav Wars — watching the Oscar-winning 2020 film Quo Vadis, Aida? is a must.

Serbia: On my previous visit to Belgrade, I enjoyed a tour from Srdjan Ristić from Explore Belgrade. On this trip, Serbian Adventure Factory arranged an excellent city historical tour for me with Marija, as well as a visit to Tito’s Blue Train. For a splurge-by-local-standards dinner of upmarket “New Balkan” cuisine, I enjoyed dining at the restaurant called Iva. And the best gelato I have had in the Balkans (outside of Ljubljana) is Crna Ovca, with locations around Belgrade.

Montenegro: The highlights of this country are also covered in our Rick Steves Croatia and Slovenia guidebook. Our longtime trusted partner in the area is Stefan Đukanović of Miro and Sons; they do a variety of trips around the country. On this trip, in addition to a fun and insightful scenic joyride with Stefan, I enjoyed an insightful tour of Podgorica with his guide Rajan. Also in Podgorica, I had a wonderful  dinner at Konoba Lanterna, with generous portions of delicious traditional food.

Kosovo: I enjoyed staying at the Hotel Gračanica, just outside Prishtinë, near a historic Serb monastery; the reception staff is exceptionally helpful, and the in-house restaurant served one of the best meals I had in the Balkans. In Prishtinë, local guide Ilir gave me a great tour of his “Newborn” city (+383 49 407 769). Prishtinë had so many tempting cafés and restaurants, it was hard to pick; on my brief visit, I enjoyed coffee and cake at Newborn Brew, and had a fun, trendy dinner at the bookstore-themed Soma Book Station. In Prizren, I enjoyed a delicious, traditional dinner along the river near the classic old bridge at Shpija e Kalter.  And the Accursed Mountains — at the intersection of Kosovo, Montenegro, and Albania — is emerging as a popular hiking destination.

North Macedonia: In Skopje, I wandered about 15 minutes from the main square to the trendy area called Debar Maalo, with several traditional restaurants featuring nice outdoor seating (including a few interchangeable places on Gjorgji Peshkov street). A little closer to the center, the big, traditional Old City House Restaurant felt very touristy, but the food was good. I learned much about Lake Ohrid — and North Macedonia in general — from local guide Džino Patel (dzingispatel@gmail.com). In the town of Ohrid, I had a great meal at Kaj Kanevche — quite touristy but friendly and with good traditional food right on the water just below the famous Church of St. Jovan Kaneo. In town, Bro’s Burger Station offered a fun and tasty change of pace from traditional food, serving American-style burgers with a Balkan spin.

Albania: In Tiranë, I was grateful for the help of local guides Eni (+355 68 900 9560) and Gazi (+355 69 631 5858). The city’s main square surprised me with one of the best bookstores (including lots of English books) in the Balkans, Adrion. In Berat, I enjoyed a tour from Erilda Krasi of 1001 Albanian Adventures (+355 69 883 1536). In Gjirokastër, I loved my stay at Tatiana’s guesthouse, Argyropolis Boutique Hotel (you can find her on Booking.com). Also in Gjirokastër, I enjoyed a great dinner at the traditional restaurant called Odaja, with a tiny balcony overlooking the busy bazaar.

Other Video Resources

My “Balkan Odyssey” Monday Night Travel focuses on those lesser-traveled southern Balkan destinations. If you’re craving more focus on the more popular northern countries — especially Croatia and Slovenia — we’ve archived lots of great content on those.

Start by checking out my team-up with my Slovenian friend and fellow tour guide, Tina Hiti, when we co-hosted a Monday Night Travel-style rundown of Croatia, Slovenia, and neighboring lands (from our 2023 Festival of Travel).

We’ve also filmed three TV shows in this region: Croatia: Adriatic Delights — You can watch the original show, or  the Monday Night Travel “watch-along” with Tina Hiti; Dubrovnik and Balkan Side-Trips (including Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro) —  Original show, or the Monday Night Travel “watch-along” with  me; and Best of SloveniaOriginal show, or the Monday Night Travel “watch-along” with Sašo Golub.

Happy Travels! Sretan Put!

I hope this rundown of tips, itinerary ideas, and resources whets your appetite for planning a Balkan Odyssey of your own. While it’s a little more complicated to plan a trip here than to the (overrun, overpriced) biggies in other parts of Europe, your effort is more than rewarded with a wonderful travel experience. If you have any guidance from your own travels to add, please suggest them below in the Comments.

10 European Discoveries for 2018

My Christmas tree is out at the curb, which means it’s time to start planning 2018 travels. This year, I hope to visit some big-name destinations — maybe Madrid, maybe Amsterdam, maybe Prague? But as I reflect on recent trips, I’m struck by how many favorite travel memories have taken place in Europe’s underappreciated corners. As your travel dreams take shape for 2018, consider peppering your itinerary with a few off-the-beaten-path discoveries — the sorts of places that Rick Steves, decades ago, dubbed “Back Doors.” Here are 10 of my current favorites.

 

Lake Mývatn Area, Iceland

Driving around the perimeter of Iceland on the 800-mile Ring Road this summer (working on our upcoming Rick Steves Iceland guidebook), I binged on an unceasing stream of cinematic landscapes. But what sticks with me most vividly is the region surrounding Lake Mývatn, a geological hotspot that straddles the European and North American tectonic plates. Birds love this dreamy lake, as do the swarms of microscopic midges (for whom the lake is named) that invade the nostrils and mouths of summertime visitors. But the bugs are easy enough to ignore as you explore the lakeshore’s volcanic terrain — from the “pseudocraters” (gigantic burst bubbles of molten rock) at Skútustaðir, to the forest of jagged lava pillars at Dimmuborgir, to the climbable volcanic cone at Hverfjall. And the thermal fun crescendos just to the east: the delightful Mývatn Thermal Baths (the lowbrow, half-price alternative to the famous Blue Lagoon), the volcanic valley at Kralfa (with a steaming geothermal power plant), and the bubbling, hissing field at Námafjall (pictured above). Stepping out of my car at Námafjall, I plugged my nose against the suffocating sulfur vapors and wandered, slack-jawed, across an otherworldly landscape of vivid-yellow sands, bubbling gray ponds, and piles of rocks steaming like furious teakettles. Many visitors drop into Iceland for just a few days, and stick close to Reykjavik — which is a good plan, if you’re in a rush. But the opportunity to linger in Mývatn (about a six-hour drive from Reykjavík) may be reason enough to extend your trip by a few days…and turn your stopover into a full-blown road trip.

 

Sarlat Market Day, Dordogne, France

Of all the delightful activities I’ve enjoyed in France, my favorite remains the lazy Saturday morning I spent wandering the market stalls in the town of Sarlat. Rickety tables groaned with oversized wheels of mountain cheese, tidy little stacks of salamis, cans of foie gras and duck confit, and a cornucopia of fresh produce. Market day in rural and small-town France isn’t just a chance to stock up — it’s a social institution, where neighbors mix and mingle, and where consumers forge lasting relationships with their favorite producers. And when the market wraps up, even before the sales kiosks are folded up and stowed, al fresco café tables overflow with weary shoppers catching up with their friends. While Sarlat is my favorite market (and my favorite little town in France), you can have a similar experience anywhere in the country; I’ve also enjoyed memorable market days in Uzès (Provence), Beaune (Burgundy), St-Jean-de-Luz (Basque Country), and even in Paris. Just research the local jour de marché schedule, wherever you’re going in France, and make time for one or two. And when you get there…. Actually. Slow. Down. Throw away your itinerary for a morning. Become a French villager with an affinity for quality ingredients. Browse the goods. Get picky. And assemble the French picnic of your dreams.

 

Ruin Pubs, Budapest, Hungary

I must admit, I’m not really a “nightlife guy.” But when I’m in Budapest, I budget extra time to simply wander the lively streets of the Seventh District — just behind the Great Synagogue, in the heart of the city — and drop into a variety of “ruin pubs.” A ruin pub is a uniquely Budapest invention (though these days, it’s been copied by hipster entrepreneurs everywhere): Find a ramshackle, crumbling, borderline-condemned old building. Fill its courtyard with mismatched furniture and twinkle lights. And serve up a fun variety of drinks, from basic beers to twee cocktails to communist-kitsch sodas for nostalgic fortysomethings. The Seventh District — the former Jewish Quarter, and for decades a wasteland of dilapidated townhouses — gave root to ruin pubs several years back. And today, tucked between the synagogues and kosher shops are dozens of ruin pubs, each one with its own personality. While you could link up a variety of the big-name ruin pubs (and my self-guided “Ruin Pub Crawl” in the Rick Steves Budapest guidebook does exactly that), the best plan may simply be to explore Kazinczy street and find the place that suits your mood.

 

Julian Alps, Slovenia

This gorgeous corner of my favorite country has always been high on my personal “must list.” It’s a little slice of heaven: Cut-glass alpine peaks tower over fine little Baroque-steepled towns, all laced together by an eerily turquoise river. While this place should be overrun with crowds, on my latest visit — in late September — I had the place nearly to myself. A few A+ travelers have begun to find their way to the “sunny side of the Alps”: Rafters, kayakers, and adventure sports fanatics are drawn to the sparkling waters of the Soča River. Historians peruse the well-curated array of outdoor museums and cemeteries from World War I’s Isonzo Front, where Ernest Hemingway famously drove an ambulance. Skiers gape up at the 660-foot-tall jump at Planica, home to the world championships of ski flying (for daredevils who consider ski jumping for wimps). And foodies make a pilgrimage to Hiša Franko, the world-class restaurant of Ana Roš — a self-trained Slovenian chef who was profiled on Netflix’s Chef’s Table, and was named the World’s Best Female Chef 2017. (I recently enjoyed a fantastic dinner at Hiša Franko, and was tickled to be greeted by Ana herself, who took my coat and showed me to my table.) As a bonus, the Julian Alps pair perfectly with a visit to northern Italy: On my latest trip, I spent the morning hiking on alpine trails and exploring antique WWI trenches carved into the limestone cliffs, had lunch immersed in the pastoral beauty of Slovenia’s Goriška Brda wine region (also egregiously overlooked), then hopped on the freeway and was cruising the canals of Venice well before dinnertime.

 

Vigeland Park, Oslo, Norway

My favorite piece of art in Europe isn’t a painting, and it isn’t in a museum. It’s a park — a grassy canvas where a single artist, the early-20th-century sculptor Gustav Vigeland, was given carte blanche to design and decorate as he saw fit. The city of Oslo gave Vigeland a big studio, and turned him loose in the adjoining park for 20 years. He filled that space with a sprawling yet harmonious ensemble of 600 bronze and granite figures, representing every emotion and rite of passage in the human experience, all frozen in silent conversation with each other — and with the steady stream of Oslo urbanites and tourists who flow through Vigeland’s masterpiece. The naked figures (which might provoke giggles among prudish Americans) reinforce the sense of timelessness and universality: They belong not to any one time or place, but to every time and every place — from Adam and Eve to contemporary Norway. Over the last decade and a half, I’ve been to Vigeland Park three times. Each time, I was in a totally different state of mind. And each time, the statues spoke to me like old friends — sometimes with the same old message, and sometimes with new insights. With all due respect to da Vinci, Van Gogh, and Picasso, no single artistic experience in Europe is more meaningful or impactful to me than Vigeland Park.

 

Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Sarači #16 is the most interesting address in downtown Sarajevo. Facing east — toward the Ottoman-era old town, Baščaršija — you’re transported to medieval Turkey: a bustling bazaar with slate-roofed houses, chunky river-stone cobbles, the tap-tap-tap of coppersmiths’ hammers, and a pungent haze of hookah smoke and grilled meats. Then, turning to the west, you’re peering down Ferhadija, the main thoroughfare of Habsburg Sarajevo. This could be a Vienna suburb, where stern, genteel Baroque facades look down over cafés teeming with urbanites. Within a few short blocks of this spot stand the city’s historic synagogue, its oldest Serbian Orthodox church, its Catholic cathedral, and its showcase mosque. Few places on earth are so layered with history. And then there’s the latest chapter: the poignant story of the Siege of Sarajevo in the mid-1990s, when the town was surrounded by snipers for more than 1,400 days — connected to the outside world only by a muck-filled tunnel and a steep mountain ascent. Proud Sarajevans you’ll meet are often willing, or even eager, to share their stories of living a horrific reality that we experienced only through the Nightly News. And if you’re lucky, they’ll invite you for a cup of Bosnian coffee — and explain why it’s integral to their worldview and their social life. Many travelers do a strategic side-trip from Croatia to the town of Mostar — a good first taste of Bosnia, but what I consider “Bosnia with training wheels.” But for the full Bosnian experience, I’d invest another day or two and delve a couple of hours deeper into the country…to Sarajevo.

 

Val d’Orcia, Tuscany, Italy

Of all of Tuscany’s appealing corners, the Val d’Orcia (“val dor-chah”) is — for me — the most enchanting. While just a short drive from the tourist throngs in Florence, San Gimignano, Siena, or the Chianti region, the Val d’Orcia — bookended by the charming towns of Montepulciano and Montalcino (both synonymous with fine Tuscan wine) — feels like a peaceful, overlooked eddy of rural life. This strip of land is where most of the iconic “Tuscany scenery” photographs are taken: Winding, cypress-lined driveways; vibrant-green, rolling farm fields that look like a circa-2000 screensaver; and lonely chapels perched on verdant ridges. And it’s the backdrop for famous scenes in everything from The English Patient to Gladiator to Master of None. And yet, the area has no “major sights” — no sculptures by Michelangelo, no paintings by da Vinci, no leaning towers — which, mercifully, keeps it just beyond the itineraries of whistle-stop, bucket-list tourists. I have savored several visits — including a particularly memorable Thanksgiving week with family — settling into my favorite agriturismo, Cretaiole, in the heart of the Val d’Orica. And every moment of every trip lives on as a mental postcard: Making fresh pasta. Sawing into a deliciously rare slab of Chianina beef T-bone. Following a truffle-hunting dog as it sniffs its way through an oak forest. And on and on. If you have a day to spare between Rome and Florence, don’t go to the Val d’Orcia. But if you have several days to really delve into the best of Tuscany…let’s talk.

 

Psyrri Neighborhood, Athens, Greece

A few years removed from the depths of its economic crisis, Athens has re-emerged as a red-hot destination. Revisiting the city a few months ago, I was struck by how many tourists I saw — and by how many of them refused to venture beyond the cutesy, crowded Plaka zone that rings the base of the Acropolis. And that’s a shame, because literally across the street  from the Plaka’s central square, Monastiraki, is one of Athens’ most colorful and fun-to-explore neighborhoods: Psyrri (“psee-ree”). Not long ago, this was a deserted and dangerous slum. But recently, Psyrri has emerged as a trendy dining and nightlife zone. Its graffiti-slathered apartment blocks now blossom with freshly remodeled Airbnb rentals. This still-gritty area may feel a little foreboding at first, but if you can get past the street art, grime, and motorbikes parked on potholed sidewalks, it’s easy to enjoy the hipster soul of the neighborhood that’s leading many to dub Athens “The New Berlin.” For the upcoming fifth edition of our Rick Steves Greece guidebook, Psyrri inspired me to write a brand-new, food-and-street-art-themed self-guided walk chapter. In just a few blocks, between the Plaka and the thriving Central Market, you can stop in for nibbles and sips of sesame-encrusted dough rings (koulouri), delicate phyllo-custard pastry (bougatsa), deep-fried donuts (loukoumades), anise-flavored ouzo liquor, and unfiltered “Greek coffee.” If you’re going to Athens, break free of the Plaka rut, walk five minutes away from the hovering Parthenon, and sample this accessible, authentic slice of urban Greek life.

 

Moscow, Russia

On my last visit to Moscow, in the summer of 2014, Russia was in the news: military action in Crimea and eastern Ukraine, Putin’s brutal crackdown on homosexuality and punk-rock protesters Pussy Riot, and the recently completed Sochi Olympics. Of course, since then, the headlines have changed, but Russia is in the news more than ever. That’s why I consider Moscow to be Europe’s most fascinating — and challenging — destination. People back home shake their heads and wonder: How can these people support Putin, who (to us) is so clearly a demagogue? I take that not as a rhetorical question, but as a genuine one that deserves a real answer. And a thoughtful visit to Moscow — even “just” as a casual tourist — can offer some insights. Designed-to-intimidate Red Square and the Kremlin fill onlookers with awe and respect. The still-standing headstone of Josef Stalin — tucked along the Kremlin Wall, just behind Lenin’s Tomb and its waxy occupant — seems to suggest that the Russian appetite for absolute rulers is nothing new. But mostly, I’m struck by the improvements I see in Moscow with each return visit. On my first trip, in the early 2000s, the famous Gorky Park was a ramshackle, potholed mess, and the Cathedral of Christ the Savior — which had been demolished by communist authorities — was still being rebuilt. But today, Gorky Park is a lush, pristine, manicured people zone, and the sunshine glitters off the cathedral’s rebuilt golden dome. Just up the river, a Shanghai-style forest of futuristic skyscrapers rises up from a onetime industrial wasteland. In short, the Russian capital — which has always been interesting — is now actually a pleasant place to travel. Finding myself really enjoying Moscow, for the first time, makes it easier to imagine how many Russians might be convinced that Putin is Making Russia Great Again.

 

Orkney Islands, Scotland

Cameron Scotland Orkney Old Man of HoyI traveled all over Scotland a couple of summers ago, working on the Rick Steves Scotland guidebook. And the most intriguing place I visited had nothing to do with kilts, bagpipes, or moody glens: the archipelago of Orkney, barely visible from Britain’s northernmost point at John o’ Groats. This flat, mossy island feels far from what I think of as “Scotland.” For most of its history, it was a Norse trading outpost, rather than a clan stronghold. And today it remains a world apart. Five-thousand-year-old stone circles and rows point the way to prehistoric subterranean settlements. The main town, Kirkwall, has a quirky tradition for a no-holds-barred, town-wide annual rugby match, and a fascinating-to-tour church. And you can still drive across the “Churchill Barriers,” installed by Sir Winston after a Nazi U-Boat snuck into the famous harbor called Scapa Flow and blew up a British warship. But my favorite sight is the Italian Chapel: a drab wartime hut transformed into a delicate, ethereal Catholic chapel by Italian POWs who were allowed to improvise the decor from whatever materials they could scavenge. While Orkney takes some effort to reach, it’s worthwhile for the unique and captivating sightseeing it affords. (To get the most out of your time on Orkney, book a tour with Kinlay at Orkney Uncovered.)

Where are you headed in 2018?

The Shot Heard ‘Round the World

Confusingly, this famous expression is used to describe any number of events. But three are the most important: One has to do with baseball. Another has to do with the American Revolution. And the third “Shot Heard ‘Round the World” took place right here in Sarajevo…on this very corner:

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Ferdinand Corner

Armchair historians geek out in Sarajevo. They know it as the place where, on June 28, 1914, the Archduke Franz Ferdinand (the heir to the Habsburg Empire) was gunned down by the teenaged Serb separatist Gavrilo Princip. That assassination set off a chain of events that plunged the planet into a Great War.

Standing on this spot, you can imagine Gavrilo Princip raising his gun and firing the fatal shot into the archduke’s open-top car. But famous as it is, the improbable chain of events that led to the “Shot Heard ‘Round the World” is nothing short of ridiculous: Princip was simply hanging out at this corner after an assassination attempt earlier in the day had failed. Suddenly, Franz Ferdinand — whose driver had gotten lost and pulled off on this side-street to check the map — happened to pull up in front of him. Bang!

Today there’s not much to see at this nondescript Sarajevo corner — just a plaque and a modest museum of the Habsburg era. But just standing here is enough to send shivers down the spine of any fan of 20th-century history.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-City Hall

Meanwhile, just up the street stands another important landmark of the Habsburg era. The Viennese-flavored, Neo-Moorish-style City Hall is where Franz Ferdinand had visited just moments before his death. Later it became the university library. And  during the siege of the 1990s, it burned to the ground. The “Cellist of Sarajevo” (Vedran Smailović) famously played his instrument in the smoldering rubble here, ignoring the snipers’ bullets that whizzed overhead — embodying the proud perseverance of the besieged Sarajevans. While recovery has been slow, Sarajevo commemorated the 100th anniversary of the Ferdinand assassination last year by unveiling this fully remodeled building. It’s been painstakingly restored to its original glory, right down to the many lavishly hand-crafted details.

Twilit Slices of Sarajevan Life

It’s just after sunset in Sarajevo. And I’ve just wrapped up my guidebook research chores for the day. I have a few minutes of freedom to slow down, relax, and enjoy this intoxicating city on my stroll back to the hotel. Fortunately, it’s a long and fascinating walk between here and there.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Ferhadija1

Around me bustles the modern city, built by the Habsburgs who took over Sarajevo from the Ottomans in 1878. While the Bosnian soul feels much closer to Turkey than to Vienna, the 40-year Habsburg period was good to Sarajevo — prodding it to develop from a backwater trading town into a modern city.  Much of the infrastructure and architecture of today’s Sarajevo dates from this age.  And the Austrian-feeling street called Ferhadija is where Sarajevans come in the cool of the evening to promenade.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Ferhadija2

Saddled with an anemic economy and a hopelessly ineffective government that seems designed to slow progress, Sarajevans find cheap ways to enjoy life. People have dinner at home, then head out to nurse a budget drink at an al fresco café. Under genteel 19th-century facades, they watch a pink sky fade to a deep blue. In the park, old-timers play life-size chess — cheering and jeering each move. Excited little kids line up at ice-cream windows.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Rose

As they stroll arm-in-arm and wave to friends and neighbors along the pedestrianized street, everyone casually steps over the “Sarajevo roses” (wartime blast craters filled with red resin as a memorial). The suffering of Sarajevo during the siege of the 1990s is a painful memory. But thankfully, it’s fading…along with the once-garish dye in these shocking starburst patterns.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-JPII

I pass the stout Catholic cathedral, where a larger-than-life silver statue of John Paul II celebrates that faith’s newest saint. In 1997, he became the first pope ever to visit Bosnia (where a third of the population is Catholic). That seems fitting — John Paul II’s revolutionary ecumenism fits this city. In this same neighborhood are Sarajevo’s primary Eastern Orthodox, Jewish, and Muslim houses of worship — all of which have coexisted within a few steps of each other for centuries. (The city’s “live and let live” attitude makes the brutality of the wartime siege — when nationalistic politicians with selfish agendas drove brutal wedges deep into the heart of the community — even more grotesque.)

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Saraci

Just a few steps farther down the street, without the slightest transition, I’m in the thick of the Turkish-style old town — called Baščaršija. With its flagstone promenade, handsome wooden merchants’ shops, and minarets towering overhead, it feels like a little Istanbul.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Mosque

Wandering past the gated courtyard of the city’s main mosque, I hear the call to prayer warble across the rooftops. People begin to filter into the courtyard and wash at the fountain in preparation for their evening prayer. Then they file into the mosque, or stand out on its porch, and begin their rhythmic ritual: Standing. Kneeling. Forehead to carpet. Standing. Kneeling. Forehead to carpet.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Hookah Courtyard

Leaving the mosque’s courtyard, I continue along the Old Town’s main pedestrian drag.  A puff of apple-tinged smoke lures me down a tight side alley. I pop out into a courtyard jammed elbow-to-elbow with bars offering water pipes — also called šiša, nargila, hookah, or hubbly bubbly. As twilight twinkles, local twentysomethings lounge here on divans, chilling like sultans (or, at least, pashas) as they deeply inhale pungent, fruity smoke. In the corners and tucked down little alleys, miniature potbellied stoves churn day and night, providing glowing coals to power the pipes. Even without taking a direct drag, it’s like cotton candy for my lungs. While there’s no marijuana in these particular hookahs, the mellow hubbub, air rich with sicky-sweet smoke, and floodlit minarets rocketing overhead are plenty mind-bending.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Kadaif

One last stop before returning to my hotel: dessert. I find an inviting shop selling local sweets. But it’s not cakes and strudels — here in the exotic East, you get honey, nuts, and phyllo dough. My favorite Bosnian treat is kadaif — a tidy pile of delicate shredded wheat drenched in honey. I perch myself on a little bench in front of the shop and dig in, watching both locals and tourists dong their promenade laps.

Cameron-Bosnia-Sarajevo-Dessert ShopRight in front of me, two families bump into each other and spend several minutes catching up. Their awkward pre-teen, with his akimbo haircut and high-waisted mom jeans, yawns and fidgets. At the next table, tourists from Saudi Arabia — probably feeling more at home here than anywhere else in Europe — laugh the unbridled, relaxed laughter that only a vacation can bring. And all around, people are simply enjoying one of Europe’s most underrated cities. They’re in on the secret. And I’m so glad to be, too.