When I told people at home, back in early May, that I was heading to Poland, I got two very different responses.
The majority of people said, “Poland? Next door to Ukraine? With all the fighting and the refugees? That can’t possibly be safe. Aren’t you nervous?”
A few people, though, said something more along the lines of, “Wow. This would be a fascinating time to be in Poland.”
I went ahead with my trip, largely because my Polish friends assured me that things were just fine. And now that I’ve spent two weeks traveling all around Poland, I’m so glad I went. I felt entirely safe and more than comfortable. And it was, to be sure, a fascinating time to be there.
This is not to diminish the ongoing tragedy in Poland’s neighbor to the east, Ukraine. The Ukrainians are suffering, and my heart is with them. But Poland is not Ukraine. And even being within 150 miles from places where bombs have dropped, I felt no fear or worry for my safety while in Poland.
Nobody has a crystal ball, especially where Mr. Putin is concerned. And yes, the Poles are on edge. One told me that he’s gotten used to the sound of heavy-duty American military aircraft rumbling overhead. But they are getting on with their lives. And they don’t appear to be too worried about the potential for imminent invasion.
That’s because Poles understand (far better than skittish American tourists) that Poland is in the EU, and in NATO. This country is surrounded by an invisible “DO NOT CROSS” line. So far, Putin respects the integrity of that line, and we have no reason to believe that will change anytime soon. (And if that does change…well, then, being in Poland as World War III begins is the least of our problems.)
If I were going back to Poland soon, I’d be keeping an eye on the news. If the fighting were to spill over Ukraine’s border, that would be reason to re-evaluate travel plans. But if things stay relatively on par with where they’ve been, I see no reason to cancel a trip or change an itinerary in Poland because of what’s happening in Ukraine.
There’s another consideration, and that’s the influx of Ukrainian refugees into Poland. Over the last few months, Poland (with 39 million citizens) has taken in 3 million Ukrainians. The Poles — who understand what it’s like to be invaded by a powerful neighbor (including, ahem, this very same powerful neighbor) — have generously opened up their country to these refugees. I spoke with many Poles have personally hosted refugees in their homes, or helped to find arrangements for them.
Another Polish friend — a professional driver whose business has tanked along with tourism in general — told me he’s been volunteering his time to buy relief supplies and drive them a few hours to the Ukrainian border, where he loads them into trucks bound deep into the country. Having watched headlines from Ukraine over the last few months, and feeling so helpless, it’s humbling to know a person who’s part of the supply chain that directly supports people impacted by the war.
All of that said, traveling in Poland, I saw zero actual signs of refugees, and never felt like my presence was a burden or a hindrance to refugee relief efforts. It’s striking how the Ukrainians seem to have melted into Polish society. To the casual American visitor, they are invisible. (Though my Polish friends said, “When you go to the market or the shopping mall, you hear Ukrainian everywhere these days.”)
I was worried that being in Poland right now, staying in hotels, I would somehow be “taking beds away” from needy Ukrainians. As it turned out, the hotels where I stayed seemed to have an abundance of available rooms. At least for the moment, hotel occupancy rates are way down (along with tourism in general), and Ukrainian refugees are living in more long-term housing.
One day I was enjoying lunch with some Polish friends at an al fresco restaurant in the colorful, historic heart of Gdańsk. One of them noticed, across the street, a pretty brick hall that belonged to the local contingent of Scouts. Low-profile signs on the door, in cheery blue and yellow, noted that its dorms were now housing displaced people from Ukraine. Had those signs not been pointed out to me, I’d never have known.
The main way a visitor is aware of the Ukrainian conflict is simply the abundance of supportive yellow and blue, everywhere you go — from tiny lapel pins and postcard-size flags in the window, all the way up to gigantic, building-sized murals. On the outskirts of Kraków, an empty plinth that once held a Soviet war memorial (long since removed) has itself been painted with bold blue and yellow stripes. And everywhere in Poland, the customary spring flower boxes all seem to have the same blue and yellow color scheme.
And I did see some rallies and vigils on behalf of Ukraine. To be fair, I saw even more of these in other parts of Europe (London, Italy) in my travels earlier this year. And it struck me that, to the Poles, these “demonstrations” were entirely non-controversial…just an opportunity for Ukrainians to vent, and to remind everyone else what they are going through.
I had the chance for some candid conversations with Poles about the refugee situation. It was clear that their compassion for their eastern neighbors is genuine, as is their belief that helping those people is simply the right thing to do. (The Poles, who tend to be a bit idealistic, are all about doing the right thing, God bless them.) And yet, they admitted a bit of reluctance, too. One told me that he’s had to overlook Ukraine’s World War II history, when Ukrainian troops (acting on behalf of Stalin’s Red Army) massacred Polish forces. In this part of the world, memories are as long as hearts are big, and sometimes it can come down to an emotional tug-of-war.
Another told me an anecdote: A relative works at a nail salon. A Ukrainian refugee came in for a pedicure…then refused to pay. “I thought you were supposed to be helping us,” she sniffed, as she walked out the door.
So, naturally, there are growing pains that come with accepting so many refugees. Many of the refugees hope to someday return home (some already are; others, from places still devastated by war, have no idea when the coast will be clear). Others will probably make new lives here in Poland. Meanwhile, Poles are understandably starting to ask questions about the financial burden created by these new arrivals. On the other hand, one politically savvy observer reminded me that, after Poland joined the European Union in 2004, something like 2 or 3 million Poles moved abroad for work. So, from a “glass-half-full” point of view, Ukraine is replenishing Poland’s population. The EU “brain drain” is getting a Ukrainian refill.
Another interesting side effect of the Ukraine conflict is how it’s bringing together a divided nation. Just as in the USA (and in so many other places), Poland’s political discourse has grown dramatically polarized in recent years. The left and the right are farther apart — and the rhetoric is angrier — than ever before. Several Poles told me that finally, their country has found an issue on which they all agree: What Putin is doing is wrong. And Ukrainians deserve whatever help we can give them. This may not be enough to permanently unite Poland, but it’s a refreshing moment of concord. (And it has shamed the ruling Law and Justice Party — which had been getting uncomfortably cozy with Putin — into stepping back from the ledge.)
Personally, I’ve struggled with one aspect of the Ukrainian refugee situation. I was also traveling in Eastern Europe in the fall of 2015, when two million Syrian refugees were moving through the region on their way to wealthier northern European countries for asylum. In places like Hungary and Croatia, I observed train stations jammed full of desperate people, and tent cities that had sprung up along borders. I met desperate people, escaping horrors just as threatening as what Ukrainians face today, fleeing for their lives…and meeting angry resistance.
The fact that these scenes are not being repeated in Poland today is inspiring, to be sure. But the cynical part of me is taking note: It turns out that, when they really want to, Europeans are able to take in those in need.
Why is it so much easier for Poland to admit millions of white, Christian Europeans when so many countries were horrified by a similar situation with brown, Muslim Arabs? Perhaps the answer is obvious: Ukrainians are fellow Europeans and next-door neighbors, whose appearance, language, and way of life are already very close to the Poles’. That’s a case that’s easy to rationalize, but it doesn’t take long to degrade into arguments rooted in xenophobia and racism.
If your heart is breaking for Ukrainian refugees, you should ask yourself why it doesn’t break for Syrian, African, or Latin American refugees in equal measure. I hope that the next time people in need show up at Europe’s doorstep begging for asylum, Europe remembers that it’s simply the right thing to do. Poland is demonstrating to the world that a “refugee crisis” does not have to feel like a crisis. It can simply be a well-coordinated feat of compassion.
So, from the traveler’s perspective, my safety is not really an issue. And in terms of my presence being a disruption to the refugees — or vice versa — I also found it was a non-issue. So, then…why, exactly, should people be avoiding Poland right now?
In fact, I would make the case that, if you truly support those who support Ukraine, you have a civic duty to travel to Poland right now.
Put yourself in the Poles’ shoes: Like everyone else, they have struggled through COVID. People who work in the tourism industry have been patiently biding their time, preparing for the return of travelers. And then, just as that’s about to happen…their eastern neighbor gets invaded, in a manner most grotesque. So many of those bookings you were counting on for the spring and summer are cancelled.
But you’re not bitter. You understand (perhaps better than most people, considering your country’s history) that these things happen. And you rise to the occasion to open your doors and your hearts to your neighbors in need…all the while, trying to figure out if and when you might ever be able to finally get your economic house back in order.
Now I ask you: Are these not people deserving of your tourist dollars right now? Assuming you are going to be spending money to go somewhere, where could possibly be a better place to spend it?
But don’t take my word for it. The reason I went to Poland on this trip was to guide the very first departure of our brand-new Rick Steves Best of Poland in 10 Days Tour. At our first night meeting, I polled the group about their thoughts. Several said they were nervous about both safety and refugee concerns before coming on the trip. A few even said they’d seriously considered cancelling. But by the end of the trip, every single one was very glad they had come, and reported that they felt completely safe the entire time. The closest we came to a Russian tank was one parked in front of a museum…another reminder that for the people of Poland, weathering Russian aggression is nothing new.
At the same time, they were glad to have had this opportunity to learn in a more intimate way about the conflict that has been dominating our headlines for the last few months. And in particular, they were touched to learn more about refugee issues firsthand.
One night in Warsaw, we had planned a fairly conventional group dinner at a fairly conventional restaurant. But then we realized that our hotel employs a largely Ukrainian kitchen staff. So we asked if they might cook us a traditional Ukrainian feast to teach us about their cuisine. They were excited to have the chance to cook from the heart. The food was fantastic (and strikingly different than Polish food — even if the dishes, such as “borscht” and “pierogi,” sounded the same). And we also enjoyed live music by a young woman playing the traditional Ukrainian stringed instrument called a bandura. It was an excellent meal, and it was extremely touching, too.
And there was another big advantage to traveling in Poland right now: Zero crowds. Throughout the trip, my Polish colleagues and I kept remarking on how empty things were. Sights that are normally congested with people were entirely empty. We found ourselves sharing Poland almost exclusively with the Poles (especially packs of cheery children, since May is field-trip season in Poland). It felt like traveling in Poland 15 or 20 years ago, before it was discovered by tourists — while also enjoying all of the advantages of economic development in the present day.
So, if you’re considering going to Poland (or Hungary, or Estonia, or Slovakia)…if I were you, I’d go ahead with those plans. The locals will appreciate it. And you’ll come away with the experience of a lifetime.
I completely agree with you! I was in Krakow from May 21-25 to deliver donations & check tourism situation because i have a group of friends going to Poland this Sept. i wanted to prove them wrong in their scared feeling. It was as peaceful & beautiful as ever! My daughter & I even stayed late night in Old Town a couple of nights & walked 15 min to our hotel. No fear at all. Very safe! Cant even tell there are refugees there! I did go to 3 foundation & temp housing for refugees also. The refugees are taken cared of! Thank you for writing this!
I, too noted the welcoming mat for white Ukrainians vs. the shunning of people of color from the Middle East. However, living in a Borderland city, the US is too doing likewise with immigrants of color on our southern border.
What an incredibly stupid article. Plenty of Americans are not visiting Poland because of the Polacks’ support of the war they’re helping maintain. You morons cry about war in the Ukraine, while yourselves and the Polacks fan the flames and encourage the increase of death, destruction and human suffering.
And this idiot writer really thinks the Poles should take in more ugly, criminal blacks and skuzzlims? Are you all too stupid to see what that policy has done to the Scandanavian countries?
Right now in Poland and through the end of the year will be several amazing exhibitions of the Polish Art Deco artist Tamara de Lempicka. Some of her greatest paintings from all over the world will be shown at Muzeum w Lubline in Lublin now and Muzeum Villa la Fleur in Konstancin-Jeziorna near Warsaw and Muzeum Narodowe w Krakow in September.
Nice post.
Although the constant comparisons to the Syrian refugee crisis is tiresome. Ukraine is on the border with Poland. Syria is on the border with Turkey. Why didn’t the refugees stay in Turkey? It’s not an apples to apples comparison. Also, while sad, the middle eastern migrants in Europe have fostered terrorists. There are no terror attacks in Poland, and I don’t think it’s a coincidence that they also haven’t accepted middle eastern migrants.
Why can’t we just applaud the amazing job the Poles are doing with the Ukrainian refugees, rather than making a comparison and highlighting the perceived faults for another crisis?
Regardless, I hope to travel to Poland soon.
Well written. I have been traveling to Poland for well over thirty years. Poland has become more diverse since my first visit in 1989. Poland already had about one million Ukraine nationals living, working and attending University well before Putin’ s attack. Let’s stress Poland’s positive response to the current crisis.
Thank you for this comment, Mark
I agree with you Peter!
Thank you for this thoughtful analysis – I head for Poland in 8 weeks and will keep all these thoughts in mind. I hope my few tourist $$ help in a tiny way.
Agreed! 100%. Thank you for this article. My husband & I just returned from 2 weeks in Poland. We traveled by train from Warsaw to Gdańsk to Wrocław to Zakopane to Kraków. It was our first trip to Poland and Springtime is a beautiful time to be there. Similar to your guests, we were a bit hesitant to travel during the war but our fears quickly disappeared. We felt welcome & safe everywhere that we traveled.
We did see a lot of young Ukraine women & children at the train stations but Poland is taking care of them. Everything from a hot cup of coffee, to access to restrooms, to lunch & train tickets and it appears to be happening without all the bureaucracy & red tape that seems to prevent the USA from doing the same. It made me wonder how we, the American public & government can be so selfish.
Some Americans assume that we are self sufficient and will never need assistance from another country but Putin is not the only “mad man” out there. I am not a religious person but the saying “do unto others” springs to mind and we could learn a lot from a country like Poland as far as its treatment of refugees goes. We were a more generous nation, way back when. What happened to that America?
Poland is demonstrating what a good neighbor looks like and it was wonderful to witness.
Hi,
Going to Poland on Rick Steves Tour. Going to Zakopane for two days. Can you tell me where you stayed as well as what you did?
We will be driving. Thank you.
Zakopane. I stay in Murzasichle “U Goralki” A bed and breakfast in highest altitude village. Pani Gosia and her family are just wonderful.
The Main Street in Zakopane is Krupowki. Great food and local music.
You should stay in a bed and breakfast to get the real feel of the mountain region. They are everywhere. Simple with breakfast and dinner.
Also take the river tour and you have to take the lift to Kasprowy Wierch. Book tickets online. Great views and food up there too!
Take also a tour on a horse carriage. Morzkie Oko a lake is also a wonderful tour.
Eat some local smoked fish and drink Mioduwa. Polish honey wodka! Na Zdrowie
Well thank you. I thought I was the only one constantly bombarded by the same question “Poland?! Now?! There is a war. It is not safe. Is it?! My generic reply is “I am from Poland and my relatives and friends go through the day like business as usual.
It would be nice to finally mention Łódź. I was born there and it is a young, vibrant city with famous film directors, the opera house, theaters, university, and architecture such as old yarn factories “Manufaktura”. Lodz has beautiful parks, a water park, zoo and green outskirts. This fall Lodz will host the Men World championship games in volleyball. My mom a former captain of the Polish National team, Barbara Borowska, and I will be there to cheer our Polish team to victory! When I walk through Narutowicza street towards the opera house I can hear musicians practicing and singers showing off their voices! Delicious bakeries, diverse restaurants, and fashion!
Piotrkowska street is the main long street through the center of Lodz and an absolute must!
Lodzianie, people from Lodz are light on their feet, smiling, walking fast and enjoying beautiful hidden court yards all over the center. The court yards host boutiques, cafes and so much more!
A must visit in the heart of Poland. Right smack in the middle!
Anyways I will be there late July and later in the fall and HAPPY TRAVELS:)
Hello Monika! So nice to see your comments here! You were a fantastic co-leader through Poland on our July RS Tour. Lodz will definitely be on our itinerary the next time we tour Poland, and there WILL be a next time. We felt perfectly safe and warmly welcomed on the entire tour and consider it one of the best trips we have taken. Our best to you and your family!
This is really exciting to hear. I will be going to Kraków and Budapest in July. This will be my first visit to these countries and cities and have had no intentions in canceling my trip. I’m also going for concerts that were originally scheduled for 2020, and we all know what happened there. I can’t wait to visit and hearing that the amount of tourist is down is just a bonus.
Thank you for this very thoughtful and excellent piece. And thank you for pointing out how different this particular “refugee crisis” has been handled compared to those in the past; it’s quite instructive to see who is treated as a “neighbor in need” in Europe and who isn’t.
It would be easier to have the empathy and motivation you describe if I could visit Poland without needing to hide the fact that I’m gay. A simple yet sad truth we see all over the world is that people can be very concerned about the mistreatment of some people while completely unconcerned with the mistreatment of others.
I was in Krakow last summer and was surprised to see a Pride Parade. It was taking place down the street from my hotel on a Saturday afternoon. I walked down and watched for what seemed like an hour plus. There were thousands of marchers supporting minorities rights and there were thousands more watching. This parade went right by the Royal Castle and continued down the Royal Way and ended in front of St Mary’s. The crowd seemed very respectful and supportive. I did see a few intolerant groups, small but vocal, in front of St Many’s but the police kept them isolated from the general crowd. The current government is conservative but the citizens of Krakow seemed to be very accepting.
I believe Anna Grodzka,a 6’2 trans woman,is the only elected MP in the entire EU.Cities in northern Poland have elected gay mayor’s,Robert Biedron for one.And Poland decriminalized homosexuality in the 30s,one of the first to do so.Its a big(for Europe)country,pop.bigger than Canada,so alot of diversity.Like most countries,depends where you go.My opinion,most Poles aren’t concerned one way or other.
Glad to hear Poland, and it’s people, are still as great as ever. I’m headed there at the end of June and again in October and was wondering: in Poland, are they requiring you to show proof of vaccination in restaurants, museums, etc?
I just got back from Poland and several other countries, and no, once past your point of entry to the EU, no one ever asked to see our vaccine cards. It is very, very laid back in Poland and Hungary. Masks are no longer required in Poland either. I just always carried one just in case, but only had to use a mask on certain international flights.
Wand to visit my ancestral Polish villages within next next couple years before I turn 70!
Retired military and familiar with travelling to Europe.
What is best way to visit Zlotow and surrounding area of Poland for several days…tour group via a travel agency? I would be going alone.
Suggestions?
Thank you!
Thanks for a great article! We’re heading to the Baltics on a 2-week bike trip (delayed from 2020) and decided to visit Poland first. We figured, why not spend our tourist dollars on a country that is helping another country?
Poland is incredible, Gdańsk and Krakow are both excellent cities. If possible send a few days in each!
“The majority of people said,” — What majority? Where did they say it? Who are those people? Setting up a false, clickbait premise is an instant turnoff.
Thank you for a lovely article. Looking forward to my visit in august
We were in Warsaw and Krakow last week and had a wonderful time. It is so clean, the people friendly and the sites were wonderful. We highly recommend a trip. In Warsaw we saw no impact. In Krakow there were some lines of people waiting for help and services.
we will be joining an escorted land tour to the baltics in August. we decided not to cancel even when the war is raging. i understand that out tourist dollars are mostly needed. what can we bring from the United States for the Ukrainian refugees, specially the children? our bags wiill be limited, but i would like to save some spacefor something small to give to the refugees in case we would meet them. candies, chocolates, socks, pens/pencils, anything small, etc. we will leave july 30. i would really appreciate any suggestions. i dont want to go empty handed. thank you in advance.
I wouldn’t hesitate to go back to Poland to visit. And regarding the Poles welcoming the Ukrainian refugees – don’t forget that prior to WW2 part of what is now in Ukraine was actually part of Poland and many Poles lived in Ukraine. Of course they would take care of their own.
Have immensely enjoyed your travel shows for years!You correctly mentioned Ukrainians murdering Polish military for the soviets,but completely overlooked the nazi collaborating Ukrainians who launched a genocide claiming over 100,000 Polish lives,( more than Bosnian war dead)mostly women ,children,elderly.Ukraine still refuses any apology and in fact the planner,Stepan Bandera is their national hero.Sorry,not sorry,this is one Pole who isnot concerned with the situation in Ukraine.Karma is karma.
To say one’s heart is with someone in need is not a statement with substance. If one does indeed feel the connection, then one would find it impossible not to want to assist. There is even the statement of a feeling of helplessness. I would suggest that with the reach of the RS organization, that helplessness has been a choice not a reality.
The definition of balanced isn’t one bad for one good. The definition of balanced is proportional to the facts of the situation. On that alone the story of the nail salon was reckless, unless of course you think it representative of the whole of the refugees. I read a couple of times, and was amazed you found this, but not one story of a Ukrainian giving back. When you have a voice, you have an obligation to use it wisely.
To point out the Syrian refugee problems without any attempt to display any deep thought on the issue does not show the level of intellectual consideration the topic deserves. There were issues and when people want to start defining them fully and honestly, then solutions can be found. Until then such statements serve no purpose other than to further divide instead of solve.
I know you have a tourism business, better you than me, because I could not write a puff piece on how well Ukrainian refuges go unnoticed in Poland while their families are being massacred. For me it would be in poor taste.
Hello! With the recent developments, and things escalating in 2023, does anyone have thoughts on traveling to Poland now? I’m an American considering travel to Poland in 2023. Would you risk it?
Hello J. I don’t feel there is any imminent “risk”. Also, traveling to Poland does not diminish any compassion or concerns for what is happening in Ukraine. There is no way to predict the future but having spent a week and a half there recently, and having close friends that live there, if you are considering going, I would say go ahead. The Polish people are friendly and welcoming and life there, even in areas on the east side of the country is business as usual. There are some fantastic museum exhibitions, cultural events and just taking in the the heritage of the country is well worth it. Always plan ahead, buy tickets and make reservations well in advance for maximum efficiency and comfort. I would go back in a heartbeat. Have a great time!
My family travels to Poland every year, mostly Warsaw but sometimes we venture out to other cities but always 5-6 days in Warsaw. There is absolutely no danger to tourists due to the war in Ukraine. The refugees are plentiful and obvious if you can tell the difference, but largely it’s no different than any big city. The food is amazing with new restaurants to explore every time we visit and the prices are exceptional for the American dollar.