After editing Rick’s writing for many years, I’ve noticed he uses certain words in a very particular way. For example, he reserves “convalesce” for a select few places. Lake Como is one of them. And after my nearly two weeks battling South Italy, some convalescence was exactly what I needed.
Traveling from Naples to Lake Como, I grappled with severe culture shock…without ever leaving Italy. In just a few hours — screaming past Rome, Florence, and Bologna on the bullet train — I went from the unbridled south to the mellow, almost Teutonic north. Stepping off the train in Milan, the sleek efficiency stunned me. I had just enough time to grab a designer yuppie sandwich (for triple the cost of a slice of Neapolitan street pizza) before hopping on my connecting train to Lake Como.
Arriving in the lakeside town of Varenna, I settled into the Hotel du Lac, a pristine Old World hotel with all the modern comforts. The hotel clings to a bluff just over the lake’s tranquil waters. Run with a polish and efficiency unusual in Italy, it feels vaguely Swiss…fitting, since I could see Switzerland from my lakeview balcony.
Set up in comfort for three whole days, I could feel my system decompress from the pressure cooker of Naples. Here’s a photo essay of the lakeside retreat of Varenna.
For decades, Rick has favored Varenna as the best home base for exploring Lake Como. Brassy Bellagio and well-connected Como have their fans, but after spending a few days here, it’s clear why Rick hangs his hat in Varenna.
Varenna is just the right size for a relaxing vacation. It has a train station, a boat dock, a picturesque church crowning a tidy square, and two little grocery stores that specialize in made-to-order sandwiches for lakeside picnics.
On a clear day, Varenna’s technicolor harbor lures sun-worshippers to watch the lake boats come and go.
And even when it’s socked in, Varenna’s vacationers still enjoy chatting by the harbor. The town’s fancier, more expensive restaurants are tucked deep in the twisty lanes, but — conveniently — the two big lakeside cafés are affordable and functional. These places let you dine on €10 pasta with €10,000,000 views.
Varenna’s steep lanes climb up the hill from the harborfront. The town’s top gelateria provides cushy cushions on the stony steps.
Capping the hill over Varenna — a stiff 20-minute huff above the town square — an old castle provides views across the entire lake. Hiking back down into Varenna, you enjoy sweeping views of olive groves, cypress trees, and hamlets hugging the shoreline.
After a busy day’s hike, it’s time for dinner. When traveling, I have an ethic about sampling — at least once — whatever the local specialty is, no matter how gross it sounds. On Lake Como, locals still dine on what, at one time, was a “hardship” food (like lutefisk for Norwegian American immigrants, or salt cod for the Basques). Missoltino is lake fish that’s preserved by being salted and sun-dried. Weeks later, it’s rehydrated and served for dinner. It wasn’t terrible. But no matter how you dress it up with delicate grilled polenta cakes and trendy plating, at some level it’s still old fish. At a later meal, having satisfied my obligation to try missoltino, I ordered a delicious, fresh filet of lavarello (lake whitefish)…much better.
As Varenna’s street lamps twinkle on, those characteristic stepped lanes are washed in vibrant colors.
Many thanks for providing this helpful information on Lake Como and surrounding area. I will be visiting family and friends in Munich, Vienna, and Zurich. All cities that I enjoy and have visited numerous times before. I’ve been considering ending my trip with a few quieter days at Lake Como, a destination I’ve never been to. I’ve now decided a few days in Varenna is just what I’ve been looking for.
We stayed in Varenna a couple of years ago and “convalescing” is a very good choice of words! One luscious afternoon was spent on the grassy knoll outside of our B&B (place recommended by Rick), overlooking the area where the ferry boats come and go – we read our books, drank our wine, ate our bread and olives, chatted with other B&B guests – and were thoroughly entertained by the town workers in a cherry picker, changing the light bulbs in the street lamps on the street between us and Lake Como! One of the most relaxing afternoons I have ever spent – and with great views!
My wife and I spent part of our honeymoon in Varenna…and so many of these views and places are familiar thanks to Rick Steves! We feel completely lost when he doesn’t have a book for a place where visiting. Thank you Rick… You make traveling a wonderful experience.
Thanks for those beautiful pictures. I have been there once a few years ago and enjoyed every minute of it. Its such a wonderful place to just relax.Keep up the good work and hopefully I get the chance to just one more time to vised there, but time is running out. Just turned 86 snd a trip to northern Italy is on my bucket list.
I well remember decompressing on Lake Como after a wonderful month traveling in Italy. I spent 4 days on our balcony, drinking in the serene beauty of the area. Thanks, Rick for introducing us to the wonders of Italy. Your photos are lovely, Cameron.
Rick, Please don’t forget to mention Villa Monastero in Varenna, a garden that stretches along the edge of the lake and perhaps one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. I love that place.
i love Lake Como. One of the most beautiful places on Earth. I’ve stay in that town at a small hotel that overlooked the lake. it was so unique to look down from the balcony and see fish congregate there. So peaceful. Seeing the Alps snow covered I the distance was breathtaking.
We stayed at Hotel du Lac because of Rick’s recommendation 3 years ago and still dream about that beautiful hotel and town. Thank you for the gorgeous photos. We hope to return soon!
Spent several wonderful days and nights in Varenna last August. Absolutely wonderful!
I am one who is ready to see the next place and rarely repeat a location…but Lake Como breaks my mold. The ride across the ferry to Bellagio and back across thrills me every time. And I agree with the comment that the Swiss Alps as the backdrop are spectacular. Oh, to see it again and again. And to the gentleman who is 86, I am so hoping you will make the trip.
My daughter and I stayed in Varenna at Hotel du Lac that was recomend by Rick.A great hotel with a great view. Followed his recommendations on everything in the area and also in Milan, we had a wonderful time.
Posted by:Anne Reveruzzi-Sept. 18,2015 9:32pm
We spent a week in Varenna in May this year and absolutely loved it. It was so relaxing and peaceful but convenient to getting to all the must see sights. The gardens at Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi were beautiful and visiting them first thing in the morning I pretty much had them to myself. We had great meals at Nilus bar most nights due to great staff and those amazing sunsets from their terrace. The hike up to Csstle ruins and down was fabulous . We rented an apartment with air bnb and was pretty impressed. Wish I was back there! I love Varenna❤️❤️❤️
I cannot say how much I loved Varenna. The daily boat ride across the lake.Snatching wifi from Bar Molo on the beach after dining there. Enjoying Bar Molo and polenta, oh the polenta! What a magical place. But keep it a little quiet, please, so I can go back. Our air b&b was exactly what we needed and the boats every day. Listening to the boatmen… “Villa Carlotta” “Belaagio”…I want to apply for that job. My poor husband knows not what he has done.
We stayed at the hotel across the street from the church in the picture. Lovely little square. Where are the two grocery stores you mention?
My wife and I just returned from Italy having spent two nights in Varenna before heading home through Milan. Can’t agree more that Lake Como/Varenna is a great place to wind down from a couple weeks of non-stop touring. We can’t wait to return. And by the way, I loved those three little fish!
My husband and I visited Varenna for two weeks in October, 2015, after reading about it in Rick Steves’ Snapshot Milan & the Italian Lakes District. We fell in love with the town, the people, the scenery, and the food – so much so that we will depart on our SIXTH trip there on April 11! We’ll stay for a month. Our routine most years is to spend two weeks there in October, and the month of April. We rent an apartment, don’t rent a car, and live like locals. We take day trips by ferry, bus, or train, and often just stroll through the village or along the lake, taking in the sights and frequently stopping for a gelato. As we enjoy it, we sit on a lakeside bench and watch the ferries crisscross the lake, and laugh at the ducks and swans. Sometimes we sit on a bench in Piazza San Giorgio and watch the world go by; people watching there is one of our favorite pasttimes: local residents shopping for groceries early in the morning, stopping for a quick chat with neighbors; day trippers swarming down the street from the train station or climbing up from the lake on cobbled passageways; children playing soccer after school; friends gathering at outdoor tables for an aperitif . . . We changed it up a bit this year and will arrive a few weeks later so we can experience what May is like in paradise. If you dream of visiting, please try to make that dream a reality – I promise you won’t be disappointed. I’d move there in a heartbeat, but my husband still needs convincing!
I’ve lived in Rome for nearly 15 years and I’m still discovering things, in no small part thanks to Rick and Cameron. Grazie mille!