One of the great joys of traveling in Great Britain and Ireland is its wonderful, “homely,” friendly B&Bs. And, while several of these are still thriving, I’m sorry to report that the classic B&B experience is becoming increasingly rare.
Even just a few years ago, every town or city in the British Isles had at least one tidy little cluster of well-run B&Bs, eager to host travelers for a fraction the price of a big hotel. My favorite thing about updating our Rick Steves’ Europe guidebooks was checking in with each one to re-inspect their rooms and update their information…which, more often than not, turned into a spirited chat.
Things have changed rapidly. The rise of Airbnb has made it harder for a full-service B&B to remain both profitable and competitively priced. And then came COVID. These days, those classic B&Bs are becoming an endangered species.
Fortunately, quite a few gems survive. For example, Susan and Paul at Barony House in Edinburgh — pictured below — give me hope for the future: The next generation that’s keeping at least some great B&Bs going strong…still with a personal greeting and an excellent cooked breakfast. (Susan is a great cook.)
Unfortunately, this kind of place, once the norm, is becoming rarer. Anecdotally, quite a few B&B proprietors have told me that they took the pandemic as a sign to close up shop. Many of them were already getting on in years (as running a B&B is something of a lost art), and they were beginning to think about retirement. The loss of so many guests simply became too much of a financial pinch, and B&B owners weren’t up for the constant changes to how they did things.
Updating our Rick Steves guidebooks around Scotland last summer, and Ireland this summer, I’m struck by how many of our old favorites have closed down.
In the Scottish village of Glencoe, I was reminiscing about my visit there in the late Aughts, when B&B signs dotted the main street. But on this trip, I didn’t see a single one.
Driving to a guest house perched on a hill above town, I wound up chatting with the proprietor. She confirmed that, when they took over their place about a decade ago, a dozen local B&Bs were registered with the local tourist board. Now they’re down to just four — and not a single one is along the main street. So this one wee village has lost fully two-thirds of its accommodations.
And I’m seeing a similar trend this summer in Ireland. There are entire towns we describe in the book (for example, Dun Laoghaire and Howth) specifically because they once had an abundance of “cheap and cheery” B&Bs that were a budget-friendly alternative to a big Dublin hotel, just a quick train ride away. But the list of B&Bs in each place has depleted to nearly zero; deleting a couple more on this visit, and realizing there are virtually none left, I’m wondering if it even makes sense to keep those towns in the book anymore. (Don’t fret; I think each of these places still has a lot to offer. Just not cheap sleeps.)
At one of those B&Bs, the kind proprietor answered my doorbell and politely explained that, while she’s enjoyed many years of great guests through Rick Steves, she’s winding down her business and doesn’t want to be listed in future editions. She’s favoring one-week, “self-catering” guests these days — rather than the whistle-stop one- or two-nighters seeking a quick dose of charm and a cooked breakfast. I thanked her for her partnership in looking after our readers, wished her well, and — regretfully — crossed out her listing.
Over the last few years, I’ve had a version of this conversation more times than I like to recall. Each time I hit “Delete” on one of those listings, while I’m happy for B&B owners downshifting into a well-deserved retirement, it hurts a little bit.
Everything we do at Rick Steves Europe is informed by an ethos of connecting people to people. My job, ultimately, is matchmaking: putting American travelers in touch with Europeans who will look after them kindly, and appreciate their business. If our readers are happy, and our European partner is happy, we’re happy. It’s a win-win-win. When one of those Europeans closes up shop, without an equivalent replacement to be found, it’s a big loss.
Of the places that have stayed open, quite a few have cut back or made changes: Self-check-in rather than a friendly, personal greeting; and big changes to how they do breakfast. At one B&B, I was given a “breakfast hamper” to enjoy in my room, rather than taking advantage of the beautiful breakfast room. While most places aren’t offering something this elaborate, the “continental breakfast in room” (or “find your own breakfast”) practice is becoming the norm.
I don’t blame proprietors one bit for making these changes. They had to survive; this way is, frankly, easier than the old way; and it also reflects the self-sufficient preferences of travelers who are now accustomed to Airbnbs. But it means the B&B experience isn’t quite what it once was. If you want a big breakfast, you can’t just assume you’ll get one — you have to be careful to choose a place that still does it.
In another small town in Scotland, a B&B owner explained the basic economics of how COVID scrambled his business: He used to rent 20 rooms. He’s reopened, but with only about half of his original rooms. He no longer offers any breakfast whatsoever, and self-check-in is the norm, unless he happens to be around. And when you factor in the extra staff (and salary) he once required to keep a bigger operation going, he’s making more money today.
“Frankly, I’m tired of working so hard,” he explained, unapologetically. “And why would I work even harder to make less money? This way, I can keep things open and be semi-retired. I’m not up at 6 every morning, cooking breakfasts to order, and if it’s a nice day, I can go for a hike instead of waiting around to check people in. If I had to go back to 20 rooms, I think I’d just close the place down…sell it. If anyone would want it.”
(I say, good for him! But selfishly, the move to self-check-in has complicated the work of updating our guidebooks. It used to be, if I stopped by a B&B mid-morning or late-afternoon, there was nearly always someone around to answer my questions. These days, there’s rarely anyone at home — even if I circle back a few times, each doorbell goes unanswered.)
It’s not just an experience that’s being lost; for thrifty travelers, this shift also has serious budgetary consequences. As B&Bs and guest houses close down, we’re losing the middle and lower ends of the accommodations market — between a hostel and a big hotel. I noticed a painfully consistent trend this summer in Dublin: It’s essentially impossible to find a sleepable double room for less than €200, unless perhaps you’re staying in the distant suburbs.
Yes, this is partly because most of the affordable, old-school guest houses and B&Bs have closed down. But it’s also because the ones that have survived realize that there’s very little competition. Therefore, they’re pricing themselves shockingly close to the big hotels. On a single street in Dublin, I stopped into update a 50-room, family-run, classic guest house with a creaky staircase, few amenities, and humble rooms. If you’d ask me what this place should be charging, I’d ballpark a double at no more than €150. When the clerk quoted me €220, my jaw hit the floor.
Then I walked a few doors down the street and happened to pass a stylish, four-star, modern hotel with 150 comfortable rooms, air-conditioning, an elevator, and all the other plush extras you’d hope for. The price? The same: €220 for a double.
What’s the solution here? As travelers, we can lean into the idea that when we choose to stay at these traditional guest houses, we’re supporting independently operated small businesses who deserve our patronage. If B&Bs are truly an endangered species, then they deserve a little extra care and preservation.
On the other hand, as an advocate for travelers, it’s hard for me to argue with the cost-effectiveness of getting so much more for your money — either at a big hotel, or by finding a good-value Airbnb. That’s just plain capitalism; accommodations aren’t charities.
(This is a topic for a different post, but I should note that I realize the role Airbnb plays in this is complicated. Personally, I feel OK about staying at one-off Airbnbs that are owned and managed by locals — essentially, the “next generation” of people who might have, 10 or 20 years ago, run a B&B — which, I like to think, at least keeps money in the community. I try to avoid Airbnbs rented by a big agency with lots of properties, which tend to be less personal and further enrichen the already wealthy. But with my front-row seat at this shifting landscape, I’m more and more aware of how Airbnb operates in an ethical gray area.)
What I really wish is that we could step into a time machine and go back a decade or two, to an age when small, reasonably priced, family-run B&Bs were the norm in Britain and Ireland.
Fortunately, near the end of my time in Ireland, I did just that. The big hotel in town was booked up, so instead, I got a room at a charming, four-room B&B a short drive into the countryside. I’m getting softer in my “old age,” and after having just spent a week in predictable, modern, cookie-cutter hotels in Dublin, I was concerned that my very traditional B&B would feel like a downgrade.
Instead, it was an utter delight. I was greeted warmly by the proprietor, who instantly treated me as if we’d known each other for years. She showed me to my very cozy, doily-covered room. Unpacking my bag, I found myself getting very nostalgic for the many years of travels when this kind of place was my nightly norm. It really did feel like I’d stepped back in time. The carpet, wallpaper, furniture, and decor might be at home in a museum.
To take a shower, I had to pull a dangling cord to turn on the power, then spin a dial on a plastic box to get the water flowing. Over the years, I got very used to these single-unit water heaters, to the point where a standard faucet seemed weird. These were the “classic small B&B norm.” But these days, as those B&Bs go out of business (or upgrade their rooms), I haven’t seen one in good long time. Turning that dial to get the shower felt like adjusting the instruments on a time machine.
Yes, the place was a bit “quirky.” But here’s the thing about quirks: Once you get used to them, they’re utterly lovable. I’ll certainly remember this B&B far more vividly than anywhere else I’ve stayed on this trip.
Best of all, every time I came and went, I enjoyed a lovely conversation with the owner. She told me about her son, who lives in Australia; filled me in on all the local gossip; described the time she first met Rick and our guidebook co-author, Pat O’Connor, 20 years ago; and tipped me off about the best restaurants in town.
And her prices? She’s still at €50 per person — that’s €100 for a double. The big hotel in town costs at least twice that much. And on Saturday night, as I was strolling through town, I noticed that hotel was hosting a boisterous wedding, with thumping music…and was even more glad I was sleeping at my sweet little B&B.
Even this traditional place has made some changes, post-COVID. Like so many others, she’s stopped doing a cooked breakfast — instead, there’s as much fresh fruit as you’d like, plus granola bars and individually wrapped pastries in a little basket in your room. She explained that things became too complicated during COVID. And she’s glad, too, for a break from getting up at the crack of dawn — every. single. morning. — to fry up eggs.
When I asked if she planned to keep going — whether to keep her in next year’s book — she said, “Oh, yes, I think so. For now, anyway.”
I hope she does keep at it. Places like hers are rare these days, and I’m not sure how many will survive much longer. But in the meantime, I intend to seek them out, and enjoy them.
For now, anyway.
Oh, this is hard to read, but at the same time not surprising. I hitchhiked through England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales in 1977 and only stayed at Band B’s. Incredible experiences and people. Sometimes I’d stay longer than I planned because the place and hosts were so terrific. I’m sorry to see them on the decline. The biggest problem where I live, in a tourist town, is that corporations are buying up houses and apartment buildings and turning them into short-term rentals. I think VRBO and Air BNB have a role in all of this even if some of them are locally owned.
Such a shame.
We just returned from a wonderful visit to the U.K. and our first night, we stayed in a wonderful “old school” B&B in Spean Bridge, Scotland, about 10 miles north of Ft. William. The couple who own it were lovely and so helpful. We were late arriving due to a delayed flight and they still met us at check-in, gave us a full tour at 9pm. There was a traditional full breakfast in the morning and lots of personalized info on where to go and how to get there. I wished that we could have stayed another night! Tirindrish House is the name of the property and the owners are James and Lucy. Highly recommend!
We stayed at a wonderful B&B in York, England in 2018 and I am happy to say it is still in operation, looking the same, not Scotland or Ireland but close enough and fabulous. Alcuin Lodge. I don’t know if the wonderful Garren is still the owner, but his “full English breakfast” complete with Marmite, was a delight. Also his tips on what to see and do. http://www.alcuinlodge.com
We especially remember watching the BBC coverage of the Brett Kavenaugh Supreme Court hearings. Love the English tact, wit and tongue in cheek. (Before Brexit – how different is it now?)
Thanks for the post, I’ll be going to York in the fall
How did you find them?
Why does every change seem to be more distant and impersonal? Meeting other travels in the breakfast room is now a thing of the past I guess.
Ouch!!! Unfortunately, it’s now been 10 years since I’ve traveled to the UK or anywhere in Europe. Reading this article about how things are changing is, while not surprising, very disheartening. With any luck I’ll be going back next year – and while I’ll be richer for the experience – it sounds like I’ll be a bit poorer in the pocket and in the soul.
It looks like we waited too long to be able to enjoy the kind of B&B stays I associate with those countries. The pandemic cost us this opportunity. I remember our guide in Italy, Donato, saying back in 2013 that he thought in 20 years or less our chance to experience a traditional “Italian mother” ( my term) cooking, etc would be gone. Time marches on.
Even though we are well into our 80s and kind of past B&B age, this is so sad to hear. We have stayed at many B&Bs in England, Scotland, and Ireland. A high percentage of those B&Bs were operated by middle-aged men. Seems they had lost their jobs and needed the income. And they did a fine job. We have grown old with many of them. We still have wonderful memories of B&Bs in York, Oban, Dublin, Carlisle, Edinburgh, etc. that we found in Rick’s ravel books.
We have stayed at Frau Keiml’s in Nuremberg many times. And climbed all those stairs. She still remembered us last winter when we took one of our sons to Germany.
Thank you for the recommendation! I was born in Nurnberg, and I’m planning to take my adult children in 2024 so they can meet their distant relatives.
They’re not all gone. I just returned from a trip to the UK where we stayed at a lovely B&B in Ulverston, Cumbria, called Church Walk House run by Martin. Full, cooked to order breakfasts, beautiful sitting room with all kinds of books, and interesting chats with Martin. And in York, we stayed at Arnot House, run by Kim and her mother. Another lovely experience – good breakfast, sherry, candies & cakes in the rooms, as well as friendly advice. I agree that B&B are a valuable part of the travel experience.
Before Covid (BC), we cherished our stays at the B&B’s you recommended, especially in England and France. Now that we have started to travel again, it is so disappointing to hear that B&B’s are fewer and more expensive. We tried a cruise of the British Isles this past April for two weeks and hoped that we’d still meet locals in Wales, Scotland, Ireland, England and Northern Ireland, but we didn’t. There were a few wonderful locals who were tour guides on our excursions but our contact was so limited. We hope to get back to B&B’s again in our European travel. Please include the ones you find that still give us that great personal experience with locals, no matter what the cost.
No one goes on a cruise to meet locals. All the tours from the boat take you to tourist spots in the area. Locals don’t hang out there.
I’m sure you ate all your meals on the boat, so you wouldn’t have sat in a nice local restaurant and chatted with the locals.
Signed,
Experienced cruise ship guest
We spent six weeks in April and May of this year (2023) traveling by car in England and Ireland and I’m happy to report that we stayed in wonderful B & B’s throughout. They are still available but you have to do your research to find them! In order of our stays, in England: Jeakes House (Rye), Cricket Field House (Salisbury), Primrose House (St. Ives, Cornwall), The Old Mill House (Padstow, Cornwall), Beryl Country House (Wells), the Lygon Arms (Chipping Camden), and in Ireland, the Tom Blake House (Kells), Glass Island B & B (Ballycastle, Northern Ireland), Ros Dun (Donegal), Woodside Lodge (Westport), Corrib Guest House (Galway) and Rockcrest House (Kenmare). All were terrific, each was different and I can highly recommend them all.
That sounds so wonderful! Thank you for the recommendations!
Also Bedrule Old Manse in Bedrule, Scotland. Best hosts and wonderful breakfast!
While my first few trips to the UK in the 90s & 00s were filled w/charming B&B memories, I can understand how basic economics are making it harder for them to survive. It’s more complicated than just AirBnB took over — at least one of the proprietors hinted at this in his desire to not get up early & cook breakfasts to order. The overhead costs for B&Bs have gone up dramatically in the past 20 years. Labor, electricity, & food costs are at an all-time high post-Brexit. It was a sad progression starting before the pandemic, & I’m afraid there’s too many complicated forces behind it to reverse course.
I agree that inflation and the pandemic was not kind to lodging options but think it is still possible to find the local, classic lodging with advance planning. We spent 3 months in Scotland, Wales and England fall 2022. We found B&Bs in Glencoe and Portree Scotland; Haltwhistle, Thornton-le-Dale and the Cotswolds England. We also had great apartments in Bridge of Allan, Inverness and Stromness Scotland; Caernarfon and Aberystwyth Wales; and Keswick, Yeovil, York and Whitby England. in some cases we booked a year ahead and only had one place tell us they were closing…we ended up at a B&B in Portree which was better in the long run,
We also did this without a rental car and survived the random rail strikes with only minor inconveniences and only one adjusted reservation. The apartment host was very accommodating and gave us a refund for the early departure.
We just returned from 7 weeks in northern Italy and had the same experiences. We even stayed at two apartments in Friuli and Valtellina that had never had Americans stay with them. The most common questions we heard were “why did you come here and how did you find us”.
Would you please make specific recommendations? We’re headed toward the Highlands soon, and this is the only type of source there is.
Sadly, we agree with you that the B& B’s are on life support. In April we spent 3 weeks in the Cotswolds, Lake District, Wales, and Cornwall and stayed in B &B’s every night. We looked for B&B’s that still served a full breakfast because we were looking for those conversations with owners and other guests. We will cherish those interactions!! Unfortunately, the elderly host in the Cotswolds will probably retire shortly and close his B&B. We did stay in a couple homes owned by fairly young couples who we hope will be able to survive. The stories we heard of surviving 2020 with 3 months of income that had to last the next 10-12 months were truly stories of survival! My next comment, I’m sure will result in a dismissive response, “OK boomer”. Sadly we may see a preference for self check-in that negates the requirement of any inter-personal interactions.
We were in England for 3 and 1/2 weeks and stayed in wonderful B&B’s: Bridge House in Ross-on-Wye and Blue Seas in Penzance. Friendly and available hosts, full breakfast, and mad chatting in the breakfast rooms.
During a visit to Edinburgh last spring we stayed at an Airbnb and then, upon returning from a tour to Skye, stayed at a B & B. The B & B ( Sheridan Guest House) was so perfect in every way that I swore never to patronize Airbnb again! The proprietors were the loveliest, kindest people. The room was perfect and the breakfast was worth the price alone. SO much better than the Airbnb apartment.
On a subsequent trip to Portugal I kept to my word and found many small guesthouses and inns in which to stay. I am hoping this will be true for a long while.
When you add in astronomically high electricity costs (easily three times the cost in the US), the Brexit fiasco (labor shortages), and inflation (high food prices), it isn’t surprising, but it’s still very sad. I would also guess that the one-stop shopping aspect of the hotel and AirBnb websites factors in too. I’m an American living in the UK, and although very few people here know who Rick is (believe it or not), his influence is definitely felt. Please keep advocating for the BnB’s!
We hiked the Wainwright Coast to Coast (St. Bee’s on the Irish Sea coast to Robin Hood’s Bay on the North Sea) in April/May. We stayed in B&Bs, some more charming than others, every night for two weeks. All were arranged by the outfitter company that provided our guide. Such companies keep the small inns and B&Bs booked in the high tourist season, so we were glad we didn’t have to find lodging on our own.
In past trips to the British Isles, we have independently found wonderful places to stay, using the Rick Steves guidebooks. Thank you for keeping up as best you can in this disintegrating travel environment.
Best B&B hands down during a 3-week stay in Scotland and England: Craiglinnhe House just outside of Glencoe. Fabulous breakfasts, a thoughtfully renovated Victorian home (no doilies in sight!) and a wonderful owner who each morning made fantastic suggestions about what to do and where to go. We stayed five nights and could have stayed longer.
Last year my wife and I spent two delightful evenings at a traditional B&B on one of Amsterdam’s lovely canals. We were met at the front door by the owner, guided up the creaky (and steep) steps to our sun drenched room, and recommended to the best restaurants for dinner. The next morning we joined the other couple staying at the B&B for a cooked to order breakfast along with fresh rolls and several varieties of Dutch cheese. We were in Amsterdam to begin a river cruise; the other couple to begin the RS 21 day grand tour of Europe (their first). The conversation was informative and animated since we had been on 11 RS tours; the other couple on many river cruises.
Bottom line: traditional B&Bs still exist on the Continent if not in the UK.
Sounds wonderful, just what I’m looking for in Amsterdam. Would you share the name of the place please?
Yes, please, could you let us know the name of this place in Amsterdam, which has overall gotten quite expensive. I was hoping to go to Dublin this year, having never been to Ireland, but when I discovered how high the hotel prices were, and just for a simple SINGLE room, I decided to go elsewhere. I fondly recall travelling around Wales in 1980, staying in small B&B’s everywhere I went, and being greeted at one of them in my bedroom with a silver tray holding a silver tea set, for afternoon tea. I have never felt quite so much like a princess! The loss of that kind of personal and attentive service breaks my travel-loving heart.
Hi Richard –
We would be soo appreciative of the name of that lovely B&B in Amsterdam. My husband and I would love to celebrate our 50th anniversary in a precious place like that.
TY!!! Char
This is very sad. I love those small cozy b&bs where you can meet the owners and chat with other travellers. I favour small, family run places, except for convents which provide a different kind of experience.
The other issue with Airbnbs is that they take rental units out of the housing market and rentals become unaffordable and unavailable for lots of people. A good idea gone very wrong!
This is so sad to hear. I still remember fondly our stays at B&Bs in the Scottish Highlands over 20 years ago. I was hoping to stay in one in Galway next year but will wait for the new Ireland guidebook or check updates on this website.
Thank you for the great article. We recently returned from 5 weeks in Italy and 3 in Great Britain. I was surprised and saddened to see the big decline in BnBs in Great Britain – there is now only one in Moreton-in-Marsh, and the BnBs I had stayed in on previous trips to Edinburgh and Stow-in-the-Wold are now out of business. I think it’s a great loss to travelers.
In contrast to GB, private BnBs in Italy seem to be thriving, at least in the central provinces of the mainland, and the agriturismo network is a fantastic alternative to hotels and AirBnB (which I’ll stay in only if there is absolutely nothing else).
Thank you Cameron for your recent insights into the present state of B&B’s. My wife and I are planning a trip to Scotland and Ireland next summer (Thank you to the entire community for your recommendations-We will take these to heart) We also hope to do a quick 2 week jaunt to Cornwall this fall. Maybe Northern Ireland as well. I agree that though time marches on, the dynamic changes occurring in the B&B market are disheartening. Our first trip to Europe “years” ago (London) led us to a Rick Steve’s recommended B&B near Victoria station (No longer in business). I can still hear the proprietor telling jokes while cooking breakfast with a cigarette dangling from his mouth. His cockney accent was so thick I was unable to grasp a single word he was saying. This resulted in me laughing at a punchline I did not understand. It was awesome and I was hooked on B&B’s from that trip forward. .
I have noticed the same thing in other countries. It is a trend that is very sad for those of us who enjoyed the comfort, coziness and highly personal experience of B&Bs. Over the decades, my wife and I met SO many wonderful proprietors who made us feel like family. Airbnb’s just don’t offer these same experiences. I realize change is inevitible, but sometimes change is NOT for the better.
Sigh.
Sad but true…we visited so many historic towns in the US over the years, and cherished the owners’ attention to detail, advice on the historic sights to see and places to eat, and the opportunity to “live in the past” for a few days. Some B&B owners became family friends (Strawberry Inn in New Market., MD), and we relive those experiences through our trip logs and slide shows.
As others have said, how sad it is. Our first experience with a true Irish B&B was in Dingle found in our Rick Steves book. Not fancy, homey, kinda like staying at Mom’s house. Eileen was a wonderful host who knew her town well, even directing us to where to get our laundry done, AND the town knew her! We still talk fondly of our stay to this day. A sad but understandable change in the business. I feel bad for those going forward who will be missing out on the local hospitality, discovering our cultural uniqueness and commonalities and sharing experiences with fellow travelers. Airbnb and big hotels are definitely not that.
I have taken 18 RS tours over 18 years but none since covid got my wife and I. We went to Europe for a month, staying before and/or after the RS tour. We stayed in B&Bs almost all of the time. I got depressed reading about the loss of so many B&Bs. People who would go to Europe today have really missed something.
We just returned from a trip to Ireland, London, and Scotland, and I definitely have noticed the changes. We always loved staying at the “quirky “ b&bs, not just for the price, but for the experience. Our first trip to Europe in 1989 we took Rick’s advice to heart and called B&Bs and Zimmers in the morning for the next night or two. It was wonderful and gave our 5 and 8 year old daughters a great experience in different cultures. I really miss this. On the trip we were booked in resort style hotels and AirB&Bs (a real misnomer since there is no breakfast) by a tour and our daughter. The bookings I made were for a funky little hotel with no elevator in London and the Old Inn in Carbost on the Isle of Skye. This Inn still had a great traditional breakfast. For some reason staying in someone’s apartment in a foreign city, fixing my own breakfast just isn’t the cultural experience I crave, no matter how nice the shower.
Keep the B&Bs, Zimmers and guest houses in your books as long as you can. They are still the best way to really experience Europe.
Thanks.
Strangely, I haven’t had the best experiences in BNBs. I especially remember when we honeymooned in Ireland in 1998, staying in traditional BnBs, and even by then, our experience was that of being a source of income without the personal interaction we were hoping for. The homes were generally lovely, but none of the owners nor fellow travelers seemed inclined to chat (and I can usually strike up a conversation with anyone, even if I don’t speak their language ). This was true for all the BNBs that we stayed at during our 8 days there. In N. Ireland we were given a double bed that was shoehorned into the room with very little space to actually get into the room. So I guess for me those bland chain hotels do provide a certain level of predictability in terms of space and amenities. And now that I am dealing with limited mobility, the charm of the creaky narrow staircases has, sadly, somewhat diminished.
I stayed in an airbnb in Galway, which had previously been a b&b – they just shifted to opening both dining room and kitchen to guests, assigning a part of a fridge and cabinet space to guests who wanted it (7 rooms in the place) – worked fine for me.
I loved the vibe of some B & Bs, coming ‘home’ to talk about my day, being asked at breakfast what I planned for the day (I travel solo). I have, though, also found that in some Airbnbs (including one in Dun Laoghaire last fall where I had a room in the townhouse of a middle aged couple, Brian and Jule and very much enjoyed talking with them).
I’m looking forward to staying in a B&B in Conwy, Wales this fall, but my trip also includes a couple of Airbnbs and one hotel – I take whatever suits my needs – and budget.
An excellent article as always, Cameron. Having enjoyed the personal touch of traditional B&Bs in England, Scotland and Ireland over several years, it saddens me that the tradition may be fading into the past. During our most recent trip to Ireland just a few months before the pandemic, we stayed in B&Bs in Dublin, Birr, Clifden, Glassloch and in Trim. Some of the reservations were made directly (advisable for the best rates), some through Booking.com. In all but Dublin we had in-person contact and conversations with the proprietors, always enjoyable and educational. We had a particularly enjoyable experience at the Ben View Guesthouse in Clifden (Galway Peninsula), which appears to still be operating. Watching TV in the common living room with the proprietor, Desmond, and discussing how the then pending final Brexit arrangements would affect Ireland and Northern Ireland, seeing their tidy breakfast room with every table set with lcomplete settings and polished silver ware (despite there being only a couple rooms booked late in the season) and the best pancakes ever along with a full Irish breakfast, was an unforgettable experience. Kudos to those traditional B&Bs that have weathered the COVID storm and have managed to resist the temptation to close or downgrade their services. Keep Calm and Carry On…. please!
As a G.I. in W. Germany in ’69-’70, I used to stay in their Zimmer Frei places in Garmisch, Rothenburg, Nurnberg, Heidelberg and others (before leaving for Vietnam later in ’71) and went back in the ’80s & ’90s to do the same. I did find some, but certainly not the numbers I had remembered seeing. I remember when a room in Heidelberg would run me the equivalent of $10 (in marks) in a guest Haus, and dinner (Schnitzel) and a beer would run about $1.25 — 5 marks (’69-’70 of course!). Long gone, but fortunately now I can afford more and still go. I also give talks on Europe on a budget at my local library, and the person in charge refers to me as “our very own Rick Steves!” It goes without saying, that your books travel with me (as well as Lonely Planet Guides) and they are included in my recommendations on those talks. And Rothenburg may be a bit touristy, but I never get tired of visiting there. No doubt, you remember Willi Schamman (sp?), who used to do night walks, and was the guy atop the church tower collecting your 2-marks! We became fast friends and exchanged Christmas cards until he passed (poor guy eventually had to move from his home town because it was too expensive). And anyone over 40 remembers Willi on return trips (told me stories of WWII, where he was a paratrooper, captured in Normandy by the Brits). On that 1st meeting, we ‘had a few drinks’ and he invited my wife and I (and my brother) to visit the tower, early that next morning. When we got to the top, he closed the trap door to other visitors and broke out a bottle of schnapps to share with his guests! Loved that guy! I think my last time there was 2014 or ’15, and I stayed in a great place inside the ‘wall’ — which I will never get tired of walking! Thanks, Rick! Your details are always important to me! Terry (retired police Lt.)
Please–bring back your b,b&b tours to help sustain the remaining establishments! I don’t mind if the middle “b” (breakfast) is downsized or even omitted, but the bed&bus part really appeals to me.
We loved our stays at Hazelwood Lodge in Ballyvaughan, great location and fantastic breakfasts, Rockcrest in Kenmare, fabulous location and wonderful offerings, and Altskeith House on Loch Ard in Aberfoyle, Scotland, lovely location and great dinners.
Our experience traveling in Ireland many moons ago ran mostly lovely when finding a B&B for each stop. The only really disappointing stay was in Kinsale. The water location was great, the accommodations were acceptable, the hosts unfriendly. We felt we were invading their space and they’d rather we have not arrived. The best was in Killarney where we stayed with a lovely family and their cutest ever son Conor. This was a “purpose-built” B&B, and I wonder how the folks that invested in a purpose built are doing? Did those B&Bs convert easily to a family-only home if they couldn’t remain in business?
We also enjoyed staying in some B&Bs on Rick Steves’ tours.
We were recently in Ireland and Wales, and while we stayed at hotels in Dublin, we had a delightful stay at Mena House in Killkenny. The proprietor Kate was charming and helpful. We also stayed at a wonderful B&B in Wales, the Cnapan House. Again, the owners Judy and Mike were so friendly and helpful. The food at both was wonderful and both places were spotless. But it was evident how much physical labor is necessary to run what is essentially a small hotel and a restaurant and I can understand why self catering weekly stays are becoming more popular with owners.