I’ve written a lot on this trip about the crowds in the Cinque Terre. But those “five lands” aren’t the only game on the Italian Riviera. In fact, in the mainstream tourism world, it’s almost quaint that Rick Steves readers are so fixated on the Cinque Terre. Until a few years ago, they were forgotten little backwaters in the shadow of Rapallo and Portofino. If you’d like to luxuriate on the Italian Riviera, but aren’t up for the crowds (and quirks) of the Cinque Terre, try these on for size:
Porto Venere — the easiest and most worthwhile side-trip from the Cinque Terre — wins my vote for “la Sesta Terra” (the sixth land). It’s an easy boat ride from the Cinque Terre, and has a similarly colorful harbor area. You can spend a couple of hours prowling its sun-drenched waterfront, hiking to fortified churches at the jagged edges of town, and enjoying the great views over the “Gulf of Poets” (where Lord Byron once famously went for a swim, despite local warnings that the waters here were far too dangerous).
Sestri Levante is a striking beach town on a crescent-shaped peninsula. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to settle into an Italian Riviera beach vacation.
Santa Margherita Ligure is the most substantial town in the area that’s worth visiting in its own right. Yes, it has (pebbly) beaches, but it also has a bustling old town with a big Baroque church and lots of urban character.
Portofino — close enough to Santa Margherita Ligure that you could walk (though the bus is faster and the boat is more romantic) — has a celebrity cachet. It’s the kind of place where the sailboat masts are taller than the houses. But I have to admit…I liked it. It’s definitely worth a side-trip from Santa Margherita Ligure. And the laundry drying from windows overlooking the harbor remind me that it’s not just Ferragamo, Gucci, and Clooney who keep an address here.
Of course, none of these towns is quite like the Cinque Terre. But if you’re in the area, or want to escape some of the crowds on a particularly busy day, they’re not a bad alternative. Each of these is within about an hour’s train trip of the Cique Terre (and in some cases, easy to reach by a scenic boat trip). C’mon, I dare you…dive into the rest of the Riviera.
Santa Margherita Ligure is a hidden gem. We really enjoyed walking around the town and having lunch at a restaurant facing the harbor. We then went to Portofino and I really don’t see the attraction. There is nothing to the town except the ring around the harbor and looking at the large yachts at mooring. The CT towns are small, too, but they have pretty views and trails between them. Not so for Portofino. The houses up on the hillside seem to have pretty views, but you don’t get those views as a tourist without trespassing.
BTW if you are going down to Sorrento on this trip can you find out what happened to Albergo Lorelei and if it will ever reopen? We stayed there years ago, it may have been listed in the RS guide at the time. Run-down rooms but the most incredible views, a spacious waiting room past the hotel entrance, an attached restaurant with dining overlooking the sea, an elevator thru the rock down to a floating dock for swimming. It was one of our first trips to Italy and we felt so lucky to find it! I hope it will reopen someday.
Beautiful photos! I’d love to visit these places one day. Thanks for the inspiration
We’re here now in Santa Margarita and enjoying it very much. Took the coastal stroll this morning to Portofino but stopped for a delightful swim in Paraggi ! It’s so beautiful there and the sea is very warm for October 3rd. I love this time of year in Italy. We came from Portovenere, a true hidden gem of a town, then three days in Vernazza in the CT. We’re then headed to Albenga in a couple of days to a little apartment on the sea.
Life is indeed better in Italy! ❤️
Santa Margherita Ligure is worth a look. The town has a lot to offer; beaches, shopping, and an assortment of restaurants and bakeries. The walk from Santa Margherita to Portofino, as recommended in Rick’s guidebook, is gorgeous! There’s a bit of construction going on in a couple spots but no big deal.
My favorite restaurant in Santa Margherita was Ristorante Reve. It is hidden down a short alley one street past the fish market. I was there for lunch 2 days it was so delicious and reasonable! There is no view of the sea but it is worth it for the fresh food prepared with care and old recipes and for the wine! There is construction going on at the building in front of the restaurant but don’t let that stop you from going there.
Hi, Robin. We are going to Portofino in a few weeks. Was the walk easy to navigate? Tell me more!
Thanks!