Renting an all-electric car (or EV, electric vehicle) for the first time ever on my recent trip to Italy, I was incredibly steep on the learning curve.
If you follow me on Facebook, you know I am a devotee of the little, sporty Fiat 500 (cheengkway-chento). For a short getaway in Piedmont between guidebook research assignments, my wife and I were looking to rent one again — ideally with an automatic transmission. I was comparing prices when a screaming deal popped up: a Fiat 500e that was automatic, because it was also all-electric, for the same price as a gas-powered car. I figured, why not?
It turns out, there are many answers to that question…mainly because, while I am fully on board with the idea of electric cars, I had never actually driven one. In the end, it worked out fine. But it provided a few moments of drama and an education in the pros and cons of EV road-tripping in Europe. If you already have an EV, none of this will surprise you. (In fact, you’ll richly enjoy the Schadenfreude of an EV newbie making every possible mistake.) But for fellow rank beginners, I hope you can learn from my experience.

I’m not a total fool, so before booking the car, I checked the range on the model I was renting: Approximately 200 kilometers on a full charge. We were picking the car up in Milan, then driving to a B&B near Alba (about 175 km away), where we’d be joyriding and day-tripping for a few days. Our B&B had a charger, so I knew we’d be set once there. The question was: Would we be able to get all the way down there? Preoccupied with booking the many details of my trip, I brushed that concern aside. Eh, whatever. We’ll figure it out.
I may not be a total fool…but I am certainly on the fool spectrum, because I failed to do anywhere near enough homework until we picked up the car. As she handed over the keys, the rental agent offered a grave warning: “You know the range is much lower on the highway…right?” Still in denial, we drove away from Milan and headed for our reserved lunch in beautiful Piedmont, cruising along the expressway at 130 kilometers per hour. But it soon became clear that our vacation was not immune to the laws of science. The “projected range” number on our dashboard began dropping precipitously…very nearly at a rate of two “kilometers to go” wiped out for every kilometer we traveled.
It soon became clear that there was no way we’d make it anywhere near our B&B on a single charge. And even our lunch stop, about midway there, was looking questionable.
This was the first of many stark lessons in driving an EV: The “optimal” range is for in-city driving, which continuously recharges the battery as you brake. On an expressway, however, the vehicle absolutely gobbles your battery. When you think about it, this makes perfect sense: You’re asking a lot of that electric motor to keep those wheels spinning at top speed. But it’s counter-intuitive to someone who’s driven gas-powered cars my entire life, and who’s absorbed the immutable rule that you get better mileage on the highway.
I should add, in hot weather, the battery drains even faster…for the same reason, which I’ve never fully understood, that my phone battery dies quickly on a beach vacation. And on this September day, the outside temperature was an unseasonably warm 90 degrees. (Obviously-in-retrospect, it did not help that we were also blasting the AC.)
We did make it to lunch. Rather than savoring three different delectable risottos, I spent most of that meal frantically researching our predicament on my phone. Searching for top-up options, I was horrified to see that a basic home charger might take as long as 22 hours to fully charge our car. (I briefly imagined scrambling to find a crummy roadside hotel, somewhere near a charging station, instead of the idyllic B&B we’d booked.) My panic subsided as I learned that there are different speeds of chargers. Most common are 22 kWh (kilowatt hours); to fully charge our car on one of those, it could still take a few hours. But when I searched for “fast EV charger,” I found some that were 110 kWh, which — I hoped — could fully charge our car in less than an hour.
Between the second and third courses, I located a fast (110 kWh) charging station about a 20-minute drive from our restaurant, in the direction of our B&B. After we finished eating, we headed out. Let me tell you, that was a harrowing trip. When the battery charge meter crossed below 20%, it began flashing yellow. At 10%, it went red. Soon after, we pulled into the hot asphalt parking lot of a gas station, in a particularly ugly industrial zone — and lo and behold, there was the charging station. (Cue angelic voices and miraculous sunbeams.)
In order to use the charger, I had to first download an app on my phone, then create a profile, and then add a credit card to my account. At that point I was able to active the charger and plug it into my thirsty car. We held our breath until…bingo! The Fiat was charging.

Charging the car from just under 10% to 100% took approximately 45 minutes. We went into the little gas station café and ordered a couple of cappuccinos, while I watched the charging progress on my app. (Another lesson I learned was that the first 80% is much faster than the last 20%. However, we were just far enough from our B&B that we did not want to take any more chances on a less-than-full battery.) Once it hit “full,” we hopped in and drove the rest of the way to our B&B…only about an hour later than we’d hoped.
A long expressway journey was, clearly, entirely the wrong use case for a small EV. But once we were at our destination, we adored our little electric car. Our B&B had two chargers available, and our gracious host, Fausto, let us use them for free.
Fausto was also extremely patient with how green we were — and I mean “green” not in the “environmentally conscious” sense, but in the “clueless beginner in desperate need of education” sense. One night, I plugged in our car, locked it, and went to bed. The next morning Fausto kindly explained that, once the car is locked, the charger cannot be removed. A fellow guest with a plug-in hybrid had to wait for me to unlock the car and free up the charger. While he was charging his car, this jovial German said to us, “You’re very bold for taking a fully electric car on a trip like this. That’s why I have a hybrid. I don’t need that kind of stress.” (Golly, thanks for the tip!)

We spent the next few days joyriding around hill towns, rustic restaurants, and remote wineries. We learned quickly that EVs love hilly terrain — which is as good for your range as expressway driving is bad for it. Anytime we were braking or going downhill — which we did a lot — it recharged our battery (slowly). It became a fun challenge to see how far we could go without our battery level dipping. My wife became an expert in driving to maximize our charge. The “scenic route,” over the hills and above vineyards, is even sweeter when it also tops up your fuel supply.
That said, driving an EV certainly changed the way we planned our time. We became paranoid about running out of charge at an inopportune moment. One day, we felt very risky driving to a city about 50 minutes away. As it turned out, we made it there and back easily — and, thanks to the hilly terrain, had plenty left “in the tank” to extend our drive to a nearby wine village.
There’s an old joke that “FIAT” stands for “Fix it again, Tony.” At one point, when we were scrutinizing our battery percentage while trying to decide if we could risk taking a scenic detour on the way home, we decided that they should change the name to CIAT: Charge it again, Tony.
On the other hand, from a philosophical point of view, it’s a healthy thing to be so aware of the fuel we consume as we travel. Every kilometer you drive burns energy, and takes some sort of toll on the environment. I have never been so keenly aware of this as when I was driving that little car.
Our B&B’s charger made life easy, allowing us to start each day topped up. But when we needed to charge on the road, we were impressed by the extensive EV charger network in this part of Italy. The most abundant ones were accessed through the Be Charge app, which — once set up — was easy to use. However, most of the chargers we found were the slower 22 kWh version (which would take something like 3-4 hours to fully charge our car), with only a few faster 110 kWh ones (which took 45 minutes or less).

Our big challenge was the return trip. My wife had a late-morning flight from Milan’s airport, which was about 175 kilometers (a 90-minute drive) from our B&B — within the Fiat’s theoretical optimal range, but, as we now knew all too well, far below its actual highway range. We plotted out a fast 110 kWh charger about halfway there, which should be just right to make the entire trip with just one recharge. This forced us to get up and take off an hour earlier than we’d have been able to with a gas-powered car. (This doesn’t sound too bad. But when you’re talking about getting up at 5:30 instead of 6:30, that’s a painful adjustment.)
We topped up our battery overnight, took off before dawn, and — just a few minutes after the sun rose above the horizon — pulled off at the fast charger I’d located. It was in the middle of an industrial zone, down a parkway from a giant furniture store, with not a soul in sight — extra-deserted since it was Sunday morning. During the 40 minutes it took us to hit 100%, we sat in the car, having a makeshift breakfast from leftover groceries. And then we were off — making it to the airport, and dropping off the car, in plenty of time.

I should note that our EV experiment was also a money-saver. The base price of the rental was about the same as it would have been for a gas-powered Fiat 500. But the fuel was drastically less. The car came fully charged. Our B&B let us use their charging station for free (though I’m guessing you’d pay at many others). The two times we did use a public charger, it cost about $12 for a rapid charge from 10% or 20% to 100%. And we were able to return it “empty” (just under 20%) with no penalty. So our total cost for fuel on this trip — 660 kilometers, or just over 400 miles — was less than $25. Based on my rough figuring, gas for that same journey would’ve cost well above $100.
In the end, despite a couple of hours of drama that first day — and the early departure the last day — I was glad to have had the experience of renting an EV in Europe. I’d do it again, under the right circumstances. And it got us thinking even more seriously that our next car back home should be an EV.
That said, if you’re considering renting an EV for a European trip, here are the points I’d take carefully into consideration:
- An EV works best for in-city or in-region countryside driving, rather than a big, point-to-point road trip. Unless you enjoy the adventure of finding charging stations, and don’t mind waiting around for the car to charge, don’t attempt using an EV for a long-distance trip…especially on your first time out.
- I’d only rent an EV if I were confident that all of my lodgings had easy, on-site access to a charger — and only if I could pick up the car relatively near where I’m staying. (In retrospect, my biggest mistake was underestimating how challenging that 175-kilometer initial drive would be for my EV’s range.)

- Do some homework to fully understand the model EV that you’re renting. What’s the “optimal” range, and — more important — how is that affected by being on the highway, hot or cold weather, and so on? I had perhaps the “worst-case” scenario: an older-model (late-2010s) Fiat 500e. The optimal range is just over 200 km, but even when charged to 100%, it never showed more than 180 km available — and on a hot day on the expressway, we could barely make it more than 100 km. I understand that this particular car is known for its limited range; in fact, even Fiat’s own newer EVs have better batteries and longer ranges. And, of course, Teslas and other premium EVs are many times better still. (On the other hand, renting a Tesla costs a pretty penny — well beyond my budget.)

- Be very clear on the availability of public charging stations in the areas you’re visiting, should you need them — not only whether there are enough of them, and where they are, but how fast they are. For a relatively speedy, on-the-way top-up, look for a 110 kWh or better charger; the charger at your accommodations can be slower, for overnight charges. Northern Italy impressed us with its widespread availability of charging stations. But, as the saying goes (and this time quite literally), “your mileage may vary”: I imagine there are parts of Europe (and vast swaths of the United States) where you’d simply be out of luck.
- Also be clear on how to access public charging stations. In Italy, most options appeared to be through Be Charge. Their app made it easy to find chargers, know how fast they were, and even see whether they were currently in use. However, you must have the app installed — and decent Internet access on your phone — in order to activate the charger once you’re there. I was expecting that I’d be able to “tap” a credit card at the terminal when I got there. But — in the case of these chargers, at least — I was surprised to find that payment and use was available only through the app. Of course, in other parts of Europe, other companies may dominate. Do your homework, download the app(s) you need, and set them up before you need them.
With all of those points in mind…happy EV traveling! While it’s a little scary to be so steep on the learning curve, in the end I’m glad to better understand the all-electric car option — especially because, I imagine, EVs will become more and more accessible to travelers in the coming years. And next time, I’ll make smarter use of this exciting technology.
Thanks for the excellent information. I probably would have rented an ev if I could have, but now I know a hybrid would be more practical for most of our trips.
Great article! Another point: I would recommend having cell service for your phone so you can not only make a phone call or access the internet but, it sounds to me from Cameron’s article, make sure the charging app works.
I would add a warning to all: we, like Rick, were struck by the remarkably low price, and booked an electric car, yesterday, BY MISTAKE. The word “Electric” was just one more small adjective in the car’s description.
For us, needing the car to drive from Italy to Switzerland, electric would have been a disaster, as Rick’s good article shows.
Loved your story. Not only was it entertaining but educational! Keep traveling!
Great story! We have had an EV for 5 years, and know the routine. We may get an extra large charge in the summer that says 150 miles, but we both know we will never get that amount. Love how accessible EV charging is becoming in Europe. The US has a long way to go.
Not in Southern California, It doesn’t!
Just got back from a 9 day driving trip in Sicily. I had requested a Fiat 500L but they gave me a plugin hybrid, a Jeep Compass PHEV. At the rental desk the keys came with a ENEL(Italian electricity utility) card for charging but they said don’t bother you won’t need it because there aren’t any charging stations in Sicily. We did find an ENEL charger in front of a seaside restaurant but couldn’t figure out how to get it to work. Probably needed to download an app. We never asked to plugin at the agriturismos that we stayed at. It was a hybrid so we just used gas.
Agriturismos…did you work or stay as guests? If so, which ones. Thank you. Cheryl
I feel for you. We bought our Hyundai Kona ev in Portland and drove home to Olympia. It wasn’t fully charged and Ihad to pull off in Tumwater to get enough to get home. Fortunately, an Uber driver pulled in next to us. He explained the apps , paid for the charger level 2. Got home at midnight
Yet another great article full of tips from Cameron. Loved your new book, too, “The Temporary European” which I purchased and your “guest spots” on Monday Night Travel. You sure know how to explain things in a very interesting way. Keep up the excellent work!
Note that if dropping off at different location than pickup location, the one-way charge might be much higher than for a non-EV car of the same class. Next summer (2023) I plan to rent a car in Seville, drive to Ronda and stay 2 nights, and then drive to Granada and drop the car off. The rental company offers an economy-class EV (automatic) at same daily rate as a gasoline vehicle in the same class (manual). But, the total charge is about $150 greater for the EV due to a much higher one-way fee. (BTW, when I contacted our hotel in Ronda about charging station availability in their off-site parking site, they replied that they had 2 such spaces, and could reserve one for me at 10 euros / night.)
Insightful article and comments! Thanks, travelers!
Loved reading this Cameron. We’ve owned a tesla 3 now 4 years and recently added a Y to the driveway as well. In 4 years the charging infrastructure here in Vancouver BC has grown immensely. Will never forget the shock we experienced taking our first drive up the coquihalla summit hwy.. only to be blessed with energy going back down. EV’s are fun, exhilarating and anxiety laden all in one! Looking forward to doing this in Europe next trip! Thanks
Fiat is supposed to be releasing a new 500e EV in the US soon that will have a higher range battery (double) Hopefully those will be available in Europe so less time charging, more time driving! (I’ll never rent a gas car again if I can help it!)
You did well to make it everywhere on such a low range EV. Longer range EVs are now everywhere and would have allowed you more freedom. Tesla’s network would have easily allowed full charging in ~half an hour for your full travel and look like in Italy, they are much closer than the 450 K range of the vehicles. In North America, they are 250 miles apart so all travel is possible.
I’ve found it challenging to rent EVs in the states for travel, and was disappointed, being used to driving my EV for the last 2 years.
We loved out Fiat 500e. Leased a couple of them in Oregon before they were not longer available and longer range EVs became more affordable. Hope Fiat brings a long range 500e to the states soon.
Your article was very entertaining as well as informative. I’m sure we would have made the same newbie mistakes. Thankfully, using modern technology, one can locate charging stations. I didn’t know that EV’s were so good on hills and recharged when braking. Thank you for all the info and happy traveling!
Thanks for writing about this Cameron. Brought back memories of my first EV from 2012 which had a 70 mile range (practically much less). I loved it as a grocery getter but it gave me so much stress when the range dropped precipitously, especially in cold weather. I once got stuck overnight at a gas station (irony) in a snow storm after running out of juice due to blocked roads.
My 2nd EV is better since it has a 160 mile range. Next one will have an even longer range and range anxiety will be banished forever – I hope. :)
Good article. A couple of thoughts though:
1. Just be glad you did it in summer rather than winter. A couple of years ago AAA did a controlled study on the range of EV’s and found that on average they lost 17% in 95 degree ambient temp. and in 20 degree ambient temps. they lost 41%.
2. You did not have the fun experience a friend of mine had going from Michigan to California. All of the charging stations were there just like the app said they were but at least 5 of them did not work and he got to spend a day plugged into a wall socket. Plug in hybrids are the only way to go if you are doing more than a local commute as your German friend observed.
Great article. No EV for me, too much stress. Until the range of these cars is much extended they will never be mainstream.
I have been driving AEV and EV’s exclusively for 11 years now, I live in Southern California I’ve had a few challenges. All in all I’d do it again in a heart beat..!!!!
Wind resistance increases as you drive faster. Driving 80+ mph on the expressway as you were doing is 28% less efficient than driving at 55 mph. That would reduce your car’s range from 200 km to 144 km. Cars are most efficient driving at about 40 to 45 mph. Going up and down hills does not create extra energy. Electric cars are not totally efficient at recovering energy expended going uphill. Based on my experience with my Nissan Leaf, for every KWH expended going up a hill, I only get 2/3 of that back by going back downhill. If you want maximum range, drive 40 mph on the level without stopping.
Check out: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Relation-between-fuel-consumption-vers-us-average-speed_fig1_262182035
and https://www.mpgforspeed.com/
Cameron,
Part of the learning curve is learning a little about electricity. Power is measured in kW and that tells you how powerful the charger is–whether 50 kW, 100 kW, or 250 kW. The amount of energy you need to drive somewhere and the amount you consume doing so is measured in kWh. The size of the battery is in kWh. The FIAT 500e has a small battery. I’d be surprised it was a full 40 kWh. At 4 miles per kWh the range on the level at moderate speeds is 160 miles. You can’t drive 160 miles though because if you did you’d have to push it to the charge station. Like a gas car you always need to leave some in reserve to get to the station. The charge rate is in kW and the Fiat has a reasonable charge rate of 85 kW for an early EV so with a small battery and a reasonable charge rate you should be able charge enough to get back on the road in 30 minutes. Those of us driving electric would be happy to walk you through this is when you want to do it again.
Enjoyed the article. I’d like to reassure readers that renting an EV is not only much easier now, but also great fun, quiet, green and clean and your kids will thank you for it.
1. Most EV’s now have well over 400km range (like our 2020 Hyundai Kona).
2. We live in Canada and even in cold weather we still get over 360km of range. Driving at over 100km per hour will shorten your range, same as with a gas car.
3. Several VWFS dealers in the UK will rent you a brand new VW EV. We rented one last year in Durham and had a great time. Our hosts at our guest house had just installed a Level 2 charger so we simply plugged in overnight.
4. We also rented a small BMW EV in Devon for our Cornwall trip and had no trouble finding chargers. Note that in the UK, BP has a large network of chargers, which only require you to scan your credit card.
5. In Australia, you can rent EV’s from rental car companies, but also from private owners through EVEE or TURO. We used EVEE in Perth (for a Tesla 3) and Tasmania (a Kia EV6). TURO also operates in Canada and the USA. We’ve used them to rent Teslas and other EV’s in Ontario.
6. Hertz now rents EV’s in Italy. We have one booked for our fall trip.
I am heading to Rome for a 3 day trip around Tuscany. I am renting the Fiat 500e (or similar) and will be planning my stops for charging in addition to having AirBNB chargers. The cost was $165 for 3 days.
I am a newbie and noticed major discounts for EV rentals for this coming summer. Are the fast chargers tethered chargers in Italy for non-Tesla Ev’s? I wondering because I have read that the cable they come with only accepts 7 kwh. Does anyone have clarification about his? Don’t wan to rent if I have to use at 7 kwh cable. ??
Oh wow, what an adventure! I can almost feel the suspense as you watch the “kilometres to go” rapidly deplete. It’s fascinating how different driving an EV can be, especially on the highway. And the struggle to find a fast charger must have been nerve-wracking. Kudos to you for handling the situation and finding a solution just in time. It’s a learning curve for sure, but it seems like you navigated it well. Thanks for sharing your experience; it’s valuable insight for fellow beginners considering an EV road trip. And Dormitxelectric.com sounds like a handy resource for EV charger consulting!
Little correction. You’re referring to the power ratings of chargers in kWh, but the correct unitn is actually kW
kW (kilowatts) is the unit if power
kWh is a unit of energy
For example, if you charge at 100kW for one hour you will have consumed 100kWh. After two hours you will have consumed 200kWh
Sounds horrific, if I’m honest. On a European trip in such beautiful surroundings to be constantly scrutinising range and searching for locations to recharge, I would avoid one of these vehicles like I would a war zone. Manufacturing carbon footprint is seldom mentioned but I spent 46 years in the energy industry, so I know it’s not good reading for the greenies (so they avoid reading it).
Recycling the material used for manufacture is also a developing problem.
Not for me, thanks.
To be frank, it sounds quite challenging. While exploring the picturesque landscapes of Europe during a trip, constantly monitoring the electric vehicle’s range and searching for charging spots doesn’t sound like an ideal way to enjoy the journey. Personally, I would steer clear of such vehicles in this situation, much like I would avoid a war zone. Additionally, the environmental impact of manufacturing these vehicles often goes unmentioned, and having spent 46 years in the energy industry, I’m aware that it’s not favorable from an eco-friendly perspective (which might deter environmentally-conscious individuals from delving into the details). Furthermore, the recycling of materials used in manufacturing poses its own evolving challenges. All in all, it’s not my preferred choice.
it was a super funny read. THanks!