Traveling in Scotland in 2022, you just can’t avoid Outlander. The series of novels by Diana Gabaldon, now also a hit television show on Starz, is having a major impact in shaping people’s travels. And if I’m being honest…I don’t think that’s a bad thing.
In my travels, it’s interesting to observe how a movie or TV show can transform the tourism industry of a place. Sometimes called “set jetting” (or “location vacation”), the phenomenon of visiting a place just because you’ve seen it onscreen is an ever-bigger factor in itinerary planning. And in Scotland, Outlander is driving tourist traffic to a huge degree. But how should a thoughtful traveler approach this trend? Here are a few thoughts.
On a previous trip to Scotland, back in 2015, the TV series had only just begun, and Outlander tourism was in its infancy. As a fan of the first season myself, I sought out a few locations to include in our Scotland guidebook — including Doune Castle, which stood in for “Castle Leoch”; the charming village of Culross, featured as “Cranesmuir”; and the Highland Folk Museum, where scenes of traditional life were filmed. But my travel writer’s sixth sense told me that Outlander was on the verge of something big.
Returning again this summer, I was stunned by the difference seven years had made. Several more seasons of the TV show have only increased its fandom, and added to the already-long list of Outlander “must-sees.” The national tourist office has even produced a high-quality, fold-out map — and maintain a comprehensive website — locating Outlander-related sites throughout Scotland. In gift shops, life-size cardboard Jamie Frasers are elbowing aside Loch Ness Monsters. I even saw an official Outlander Tartan Pocket Square™.
Outlander tourism has even trickled down to small sights: In the wonderful, endearing, volunteer-run Glencoe Folk Museum — on the main drag of a tiny, one-street Highlands village — they’ve taped up a photo of Sam Heughan (who stars as Jamie) perusing the display cases.
I’ve seen this happen before. I’ve seen in at Harry Potter-related sights around the UK (including ones in Scotland). I’ve seen it in Dubrovnik and Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, which came on many travelers’ radar thanks to Game of Thrones. Even Albuquerque, New Mexico, is newly trendy for a weekend getaway, thanks to those eager to walk in the footsteps of Walter White from Breaking Bad or Kim Wexler from Better Call Saul.
Most recently, I’ve seen this phenomenon in the town of Richmond, just outside London, which has started to attract quite a few Ted Lasso pilgrims…including me.
Sometimes this impact is short-lived. For a brief period in the mid-Aughts, we added mentions to our Paris and London guidebooks about various landmarks pivotal to the plot of The Da Vinci Code; a few years later, after that fad had passed, we took most of them out again. Others are evergreen: In Salzburg, Sound of Music tours are as big an industry now as they ever have been, even as the film approaches its 60th birthday. (And sometimes it’s hard to judge: Doing our Scotland updates this summer, we’ve debated whether it’s time to finally retire our “Debunking Braveheart” sidebar about the 1995 movie.)
As a travel writer who tries to approach Europe thoughtfully, I have complicated feelings about “set jetting.” (Full disclosure: In addition to being a professional traveler, am also a massive TV and film buff; in a previous life, I even wrote movie reviews for my hometown newspaper.)
On the one hand, I’ve observed how becoming famous in a movie or TV show can bring well-deserved attention to a worthy place that might otherwise get overlooked. Once there, those visitors come to love that place on its own merits. That’s a good thing.
On the other hand, I don’t have much patience for people who go to a place only because of the screen connections, with no appetite for going beyond that basic photo op. A friend of mine, who works as a tour guide in Dubrovnik, once told me that she occasionally gets requests from people asking her to do a tour exclusively of Game of Thrones filming locations…“without that boring history or culture stuff.” She turns down those requests, and frankly, I wish those people would stay home.
One distinction to consider is whether the place you see on screen is actually “playing itself.” In Scotland, Harry Potter pilgrims book months ahead for a chance to ride on what they call “Hogwarts Express,” perhaps not even realizing that the historic steam locomotive has a real name: the Jacobite Steam Train.
Or take Dubrovnik — which, in Game of Thrones, represents fictional locations that exist only in the fantasy world of Westeros. There’s nothing “Croatia” about what you see on the screen. This can lead to some unfortunate missteps. Late in the run of the series (spoiler warning), the city of Kings Landing is blown to bits by Daenerys Targaryen and her dragon. Many of these scenes featured recognizable streets and landmarks of Dubrovnik — a city which was, during the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991 and 1992, the tragic subject of a real-life, medieval-style military siege. Back then, the actual buildings of Dubrovnik were bombarded from above; townspeople took cover, rooftops burned, streets smoldered. Having seen photos and news footage from the Siege of Dubrovnik — and having heard the real-life stories of its victims — it struck me as particularly insensitive for the show’s producers to so gruesomely destroy its fantasy doppelgänger onscreen.
In Outlander, on the other hand, Scotland represents Scotland — better yet, historical Scotland. I’ve been won over by the way that Outlander is rooted in real Highlands history. It gets people in the proverbial door, and then — crucially — focuses them on the “right things.”
The best example: Culloden. The Battle of Culloden, which was fought on April 16, 1746, on a moor just outside of Inverness, was the pivot point for all of Scottish history. As the Jacobite troops of Bonnie Prince Charlie were defeated by the Hanoverian army of King George II, the traditional clan system of the Highlands was shattered; life for the Scots changed forever.
Likewise, Culloden presents a turning point in the Outlander saga. (Light spoilers ahead.) Not only does Jamie Fraser fight on Culloden Moor; earlier, Bonnie Prince Charlie himself appears as a major character, as the Frasers move to France and hobnob with the Stuart royal family in exile.
I’ve toured the Culloden Battlefield on multiple occasions over the years. Each time, I’ve been impressed by the site’s haunting ambience, and by the outstanding visitors center that tells its story. But I’ve noticed some key differences between pre-Outlander visits and post-Outlander visits. First, post-Outlander, there were a lot more people out on the moor with me…and many were laying fresh flowers at the Fraser clan marker. Also, I must admit, having seen the dramatization of the battle on the show — and feeling a more personal connection to some of the battle’s (fictional) participants — my appreciation of the site was even greater.
If the impact of Outlander is that more people are going to a genuinely great and important site, and learning about real history while there…then I’m all for it.
Of course, there are many Outlander sights in Scotland that have less to do with real history. A very short drive from Culloden are the prehistoric Clava Cairns, including the stony remains of a burial chamber dating back millennia. We’ve described these in our guidebook for years as a good place to get a glimpse at Scotland’s (relatively sparse) prehistoric artifacts. Now we’ve also had to add a mention of the split standing stone, which vaguely resembles the one Claire Fraser uses to travel through time. Are the many new visitors flocking here for a photo op also taking a moment to learn about this site’s real origins? Possibly…but somehow, I doubt it.
Understandably, some locals have misgivings about all of this. At the tourist office in one small town, I picked up a brochure for a local folk museum that touted its ties to Outlander. Later, when I got to the museum, I asked the attendant whether they actually had an Outlander exhibit. She grew instantly perturbed. “Oh, come on! That’s fantasy. This is a real museum about real history. Where do people get the idea that everything is about Outlander?” “Um,” I responded, and showed her the brochure — produced by her own museum — trumpeting the Outlander connection. (What can I say? The Scots know what sells. And I will resist the urge here to draw comparisons with a certain mythical sea monster…)
That said, many Scots I’ve talked to — including the sticklers — acknowledge (sometimes begrudgingly) that Outlander does a pretty impressive job of conveying real Highlands history amidst all of the time-travel fantasy and bodice-ripping. Many Scots still feel burned by Braveheart — the last time a movie thrust Scotland onto the international stage — in which Mel Gibson completely distorted actual history in service of a rollicking action picture. Even if they don’t love Outlander, most Scots recognize that it’s far better than Braveheart.
So maybe it’s about more than just whether it’s a “real place” — but about the realness of that place. When Stephenie Meyer wrote her original Twilight novel, she set it in Forks, Washington. How did she choose? She simply looked up which American town got the most rainfall (reasoning that vampires would appreciate a gloomy climate)…and Forks was it.
Forks is not far from where I live in Seattle, and on a few occasions, I’ve visited the area (for its stunning Olympic Peninsula scenery, not the Twilight connection). And I was struck by how, based on this offhand decision made two decades ago, Forks has completely rebranded itself as “Twilight town.” When you go to little Forks, you see a Twilight café, Twilight gift shop, Twilight cabins, Twilight tour company, Bella’s truck from Twilight…one time, I even drove by a soggy stack of Twilight firewood (no joke).
I don’t mean to besmirch Stephenie Meyer or Twilight (or Forks, for that matter). The fact is, a first-time author doesn’t always have the resources to travel far and wide, scouting locations for a novel that may never see publication…much less become an international phenomenon. But when it comes to what guides your travel planning, “I basically picked it out of a hat” doesn’t strike me as a good enough reason to visit a place.
Meanwhile, it’s clear that Diana Gabaldon eclipsed Meyer (pun intended) in her meticulous research for Outlander. Before writing her novel, Gabaldon had earned a Ph.D. and was, effectively, a professional researcher. And it shows. Then, the producers of the TV series doubled down by committing both to honor Gabaldon’s original vision, and to respect real Highlands history. And the result is a show that gets a lot of people — including many who previously never cared one lick about Scotland — very excited to visit the site of a 275-year-old battle. That’s an impressive feat. Yes, even if the side effect is a few Outlander-themed souvenirs.
In the end, I believe the best kind of “set jetting” is when a piece of pop culture both attracts people to a new place, and whets their appetite to learn more. And on that count, Outlander sets a high bar. If you’re heading to Scotland because you fell in love with the place by reading or watching Outlander…good for you. Have a great time tracking down all of those sights. But once you get there, make sure you go beyond the Claire and Jamie photo ops, and really get to know Scotland, too.
I was in Scotland updating our Rick Steves Scotland guidebook. Our brand-new, fully up-to-date Fourth Edition arrives in December — just in time for the holidays. If you’re going sooner than that, the current (Third) edition is still fundamentally sound and packed with great tips…just expect some changes, and confirm hours ahead of time.
My travel memoir, The Temporary European: Lessons and Confessions of a Professional Traveler, includes a chapter about “set jetting,” and specifically about the time I had to take two Sound of Music tours back-to-back, on assignment. For a more cynical and humorous take on when “set jetting” lacks the cultural insight of Outlander, check it out.
I also like the way Outlander is highlighting tales of our revolution in areas we have heard little about. True there is sex and violence, but the stories are good, the characters are mostly likeable and there are a wide variety of levels of society shown. I have enjoyed both the books (seriously long) and the tv shows.
I wonder if “the Outlander Effrect” will find it’s way to Denmark’s coast for the PBS crowd who are watching
“Seaside Hotel”? Love all 8 seasons of that show. The history (from the roaring 20’s to WWII )is fascinating and the scenery is stunning!
We’re not much for set jetting. Passed on Downton Abbey in England. We did take a picture at Platform 9.75 for our kids, but after hours to avoid the crowded concession. We were at King’s Cross for a train to Edinburgh to start a RS tour, which had good visit at the Culloden battlefield — and a ride across Loch Ness ;-)
I fell in love with Scotland before I even heard of Outlander. I loved the people, and was intrigued by it’s history. And I really LUV the Highland Coos!
I was at Culloden about 25 years ago before they had even put in the audio guide tour. It had a completely different atmosphere then. You could almost hear the clashing of swords and feel the anguished spirits of those who perished there. A few years ago when I was last there, they had put in the audio guides and it totally interfered with ambience, in my experience. I cannot imagine what it must be like now.
Way back in 1998, a group of us from the states went to Scotland because of the Outlander BOOKS. Way before Sam and Catriona came on the scene, there have been loyal readers who went on their own searches. We were at Culloden before the site was rebuilt to what it is today. We searched the closes of Edinburgh and the hills around Inverness on our own. So when the series came out, and Scotland embraced it, we were thrilled to participate again!
I despise Outlander and Harry Potter, and I cringe to think how many times I will be bombarded by their marketing (and all those wanting to profit by piggybacking on their fame) during my trip next summer. Neither one portrays Scotland accurately or the people who live there, and I find it hard to believe that Outlander fans who flock to Culross, for example, care about the true history and architecture of the place rather than just being able to say that they stood in the same place as the Outlander stars. Perhaps a few do, but not enough to justify the “in your face” marketing that the rest of us are forced to endure. (But I’m all for comparing Jamie to the Loch Ness Monster.)
I don’t think you’ll be bothered too much by it, unless you seek it out, and it sounds like you won’t! There’s plenty to do, even in the highlands, that won’t inflict Outlander-mania on you. I hope you have a great visit, and if you do come across it, don’t let it spoil your visit–just let people have their fun (or make money, fwiw), and move on, would be my advice (the only experience you’ll be hurting will be yours, and that would be a shame).
I’ve been traveling for more than 60 years now, and I’ve moaned and groaned about how tourism has changed Telluride, and Arches National Park, and Angkor Wat, and Amsterdam, and…, and…. But I try to keep in mind that I’m a tourist too, and tourists change a place, even if our reasons for visiting that place are to better understand its history and culture. I remember mentioning to my professor of S.E.Asian History, who had travelled in Indonesia in the 1950s, that I was planning a trip there in 1969. “It’s been ruined by tourists,” he said. My trip was wonderful.
As for “in-your-face” marketing, I’m not forced to endure it; I turn my face or walk away.
Well said, Anna.
I cringe at the whole idea of the vapid nature of tourism that is inspired by what has been shown on screen. Like you, the connection between the real history of a place – or even its contemporary issues – are overlooked for the selfie taken on the spot that some professional actor stood on during a video-tape session. It’s the worst kind of tourism, even if it does promote places…the world really can have too many tourists.
Sorry, but you sound like a typical “ok for me, but not for thee” tourist snob. Yeah, yeah, I know – you’re a “traveler”, it’s those others amongst the great Unwashed that get the wretched tag of “tourist.”
The violence of your opinion (“despise” “cringe” “in your face”) betrays a fear, not a loathing. Possibly that you’ll be taken for one of the fan plebes.
In any event, it’s none of your business whether or not another person enjoys the history along with the location, how can that possibly impact you? So silly.
Oh, I forgot – you might have to avert your eyes from a placard somewhere along the way LOL GMAB
Funny, I think of it more as “live and let live.” Even if I have strong opinions about travel, I respect that everyone has their own tastes and interest. (But, of course, I am partial to my own take!) Happy travels!
I first visited Scotland because my Mother’s family were from the Isle of Skye. Loved it. Visited Scotland again for the Whisky Festival on Isla, as we love Scottish whisky. Visited Glasgow twice for Celtic Connections as we love Scottish and Scottish inspired music. Yes, after reading the Outlander books we loved visiting there even more and have made at least 8 trips. I am happy Outlander visitors are raising the economy, and really think it’s uncalled for to critisize Outlander when it has helped people to know its’ culture and beauty.
When I went to England (sorry, it’s not Scotland) around 20 – 25 years ago, one of the sites I wanted to see was the Hastings Battlefield. I arrived late; half an hour before closing. After doing a bit of begging, they let me in. The time of year was late October – early November. So I went on a quick walk around the battlefield. They had taped sounds of swords clashing, horses neighing, men yelling, etc. throughout the battlefield. As I walked around, the sun was setting and it was chilly. It was like I was really there at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The only thing that was missing was William the Conqueror.
Having been to the site of the Battle of Hastings last May with guide Deborah, I can concur. One of the best immersive experiences I’ve experienced. The statues throughout are helpful as well. I found the audio guide helpful; and as is often the case IRL, (In Real Life) it seemed that the battlefield was much smaller than the events of the day might suggest.
I fell in love with Scotland the first time I visited.
I loved the history and this was before Outlander!
My next trip was just last month and yes I couldn’t wait to visit all of the sites of Outlander and was not
Disappointed. The battlefield of Culloden and visitor center is full of history and I read every word!! If you are traveling to Scotland Isle of Skye is so beautiful!
Someday I’d like to tour the locations in Sicily used for the series known in the US as “Detective Montalbano;” I know there are such tours – and the series did a lot for the tourist industry in that region. A more obscure series finally got me to Malta: https://richardwexler.medium.com/a-salute-to-neil-burnside-the-spy-who-got-me-to-malta-612b734b374
Do it! We have read all the books and loved the series on television. BUT going to Sicily was the best! We did not take a tour but found the cities in the books ourselves, even found his home! Sicily is a beautiful place with great food and wine so make it your dream come true if you can!
In 2017 my sister-in-law and I embarked on a trip to Scotland, inspired by our enjoyment of “Outlander” (the books, then the series), we both love hiking, AND her side of the family has Scottish Highlander ancestry. We were talking on the phone in early 2017, giggling a bit about tours that feature nothing but “Outlander” fans, trivia, and loci from dawn till dusk, for weeks on end.Then one of us mentioned exceptional hiking opportunities in Scotland, and the fall of that year on we took a ca. 100-mile walk along the West Highland Way. We scheduled some “Outlander” day trips along the way, visiting Doune Castle, Culross, Culloden, etc., but we also experienced, up close, the spectacular beauty of the Highlands and the warmth and hospitality of the Scottish people. And, aye, the history! We are both grateful that we went on this trip, and feel that we can thank the “Outlander” phenomenon for inspiring it. P.S. If anyone wants to see a film that really attempts a historical accounting for Scotland, check out “the Outlaw King”-about Robert the Bruce. “Braveheart” is total cheese by comparison.
Loved the Outlaw King movie. I agree, it is totally worth a look for the history.
I have Scottish heritage (grandfather born in Ayr) so I’ve been drawn to Scotland for a long time. I went in 2009 and loved it – though barely scratched the surface. I visited Ayr and places my grandfather hung out as a child. Then, I went in 2016 and this was right after starting to watch the Outlander series. I enjoy Outlander for that connection to Scotland – even if some of it is fantasy, and do enjoy the “bodice ripping” part as well. And, I appreciate the history that is included and is not all fictionalized. I went to Culloden and felt that I was drawn even more to the history after watching Outlander and could better appreciate all this historic site had to offer. It was also still early enough in the Stars series that there were not many “set jetters” – and there was not much Outlander merchandise to be found. When I go again, I know I’ll be a bit disappointed by the retail and marketing barrage – but I’ll still love Scotland and will still enjoy the books and series.
Men in Kilts, the book offers wonderful info about Scotland. Both historic and current. On my trip to Scotland next year I will plan on seeing some of the locations mentioned in the book. I’ll be using my RS guidebook also.
Hi. The book you’re referring to, is that “Clanlands”? The book I see on Amazon called “Men in Kilts” appears to be an unrelated romance novel.
I am an Outlander fan but not obsessed with visiting all the filming sites. On our recent trip to Scotland we did go to Culloden and Clava Cairns but would have done that anyway. Coming down the east coast we did decide to stay in Falkland (which stands in for Inverness) on the TV show. What a delightful little village. If Outlander is giving it a boost, I am glad.
I started reading the Outlander series around 1994 or 1995, whenever it first came out. I fell in love with it, partly because my ancestors were from Scotland. By 1997, I planned our first trip there (before everything was done on the internet), including a visit to Culloden. We rented a car and toured the country, and it was awesome. So I’m probably one of the first set jetters for Outlander, and feel like the books were life-changing for me. But Scottish history, the beautiful country, and the down-to-earth people were foremost. There are many people I’ve met there that I remember to this day, including one B&B owner who took it upon herself to cancel two weeks worth of our reservations and find us flights home — and take us to the airport a long way away — when my friend’s mother died and we had to cut a trip short. I’ve been back several times. What a great place! (Don’t overlook walking the Great Glen Way or the West Highland Way.)
Our July 2019 cruise ended in Edinburgh. Being an Outlander fan, I packed up our RS Scotland Guidebook for a week’s stay as it was our first time in Scotland. We didn’t rent a car and opted for a local (Rabbie) full day tour of Outlander sites. Our guide was very knowledgeable on the history of each place. My hubby is not an Outlander watcher but thoroughly enjoyed the places.
Visiting Scotland because of the appeal due to an immersive and engaging story doesn’t seem odd to me at all. We signed up for the RS Best of Scotland tour in 2018. Shortly before booking our flights I discovered that year was the 150th anniversary of the Golden Retriever breed, which originated in Scotland. Naturally we arrived several days before our tour began so we could head to the Highlands to make a pilgrimage. One of my fondest travel memories was participating in a torchlit midnight procession with a couple hundred people and their dogs to the ruins where the breed began.
Went on an Outlander tour last spring. All 8 of us were interested in real history as much as the show. It was a fabulous tour and we stayed at the Pipers Tryst in Glascow, recommended by you! But our guide said Outlander is not popular amongst Scots because it isn’t shown on “free” tv. Because of that tour-season 1 sites only- I can’t wait to get back and learn/see/do more!
My husband and I went to the UK yhis June. We had an awesome time and the weather was beautiful ! We did a wee red bus tour (5days) and went to the highlands , Skye and Inverness ,Edinburgh. Also saw York and then London. The trip was fantastic. Scotland was paradise . I am an outlander fan , but love to hear the history and even saw Flora Macdonslds grave!
If you’re coming out with a new Scotland guidebook, I hope you have removed the Grassmarket Hotel from your recommendations. We stayed there, forewarned about and prepared for stairs and a funky atmosphere, but what we were not prepared for was a distinct lack of customer service, including charging us for rooms which were prepaid. Ultimately the company refunded our money, but it took persistent communication over a month. From the ease with which the overcharging was done, our guess is that it happens frequently and the hotel just hopes people will give up and forget about it. If you’re continuing to list the Grassmarket, please warn people to check their bills and insist upon a receipt. In the end it reflects poorly on the Rick Steves guidebooks.
For everyone that loves Scotland and the history of Scotland, much in part to being fans of the Outlander series, I suggest reading books about Culloden and the Highland Clearances by the author John Prebble.
I was born in Edinburgh in 1946 200 years before the battle at Culloden. My maiden name is McLean and I certainly got goosebumps looking at my clan stone while visiting Scotland with my husband several years ago. It was before Outlander (which my family has thoroughly read and watched and enjoyed) and I could almost hear the swords of the brave highlanders fighting off English. What a lopsided battle that was. Great damage was done to Scotland but the Scots have thrived and I am so very proud of my native country.
It’s masturbatory dogshit for morons. There you go. Right from the fingers of a real Scotsman writing it in Scotland right now. That suit you? No?
GOOD.
You sound fun. (Eye roll)
It seems like there’s always a lure of some sort to leave home. Think about medieval pilgrims who traveled to see saints’ relics. Is the goal to see the world as a “real traveler” who is also a snob (see: some comments above), or respect that everyone has their own door through which to see the world?
I’m looking forward to visiting Scotland sometime in the future with my husband. We both have been told and have researched our ancestors back to Scotland. Even though we were not born there or have immediate family connections, we are still proud of our ancestors and the struggles and strengths they endured during their lives. So for a real Scotsman to call our wanting to travel to visit our ancestors homeland and history and culture, ( morons), makes feel sorry that person. Maybe they should travel elsewhere to enlighten their monotonous lives. Sorry for them but exciting for me and mine to see our homeland for the first time.