That warning — white letters against an alarming-red field — pops up on the seat-back TV screen as I settle into my Icelandair flight to Reykjavík. It’s a message from Safe Travel Iceland, warning tourists — as early in their trip as possible — to be ready to share one-lane roads, to drive carefully on gravel, and not to get too tired driving late in the land of the midnight sun. But in a way, it also sums up my upcoming journey.
My early-summer guidebook research trip in Europe is underway. My first stop is, technically, Iceland — but I won’t be there for long. After an hour’s layover, I’ll continue to Great Britain (for a spin through Salisbury, Stonehenge, Cardiff, Ironbridge Gorge, and North Wales), then Oslo. But then, around the beginning of June, I’ll fly back through Reykjavík…and this time, I’ll be sticking around for a couple of weeks.
At Rick Steves’ Europe, one of our big projects this summer is to produce our first-ever Rick Steves Iceland guidebook. It’s a big step for us. While Rick has been to Iceland — and greatly enjoyed it — it has always felt “not quite Europe.” But our fans — who, like so many travelers, are making a habit of stopping off for a few days in Iceland on their way to or from Europe — have made it clear that they’d really appreciate the “Rick Steves take” on Iceland. And the numbers are astonishing: Tourist visits to Iceland are growing at an exponential rate. Last year, more Americans visited Iceland than all the people who live in Iceland. It’s clear that a lot of our readers’ travel dreams include Iceland…and it’s our duty to help them out.
Even before I boarded my flight, we already had a great guidebook in the can. Ian Watson, one of our most experienced guidebook researcher/writers and a longtime collaborator, lived in Iceland with his family for many years. He spent this past spring researching and writing our book on his adopted homeland. Now it’s my turn: In early June, I’ll be test-driving, polishing, and “Rick-ifying” Ian’s work. (Thanks to Ian for letting me use one of his photos for this post!)
As I’ve prepared for this trip, I’ve been surprised how many people I know are already experienced Iceland travelers. I’m sure a lot of you reading this have been there — and I’d love your input.
In the comments, please share your best Iceland tips. Favorite restaurants, hotels, museums, nightlife, or shops? Best day-trips (or day-trip companies)? Any particularly memorable experiences — food tours, scenic drives, volcano visits, and so on? What kind of information would you have found helpful in planning your trip? What tips do you share with your friends who are heading there? In general, what aspects of an Iceland trip should a Rick Steves-style book be sure not to miss?
I’ll collect everyone’s advice, add it to my already-lengthy list of leads, and make sure to take it into consideration as I explore Iceland.
Thanks in advance for your help. I’ll be posting later this summer with my observations about the land of ice and fire. Between now and then, however, I’ve got lots of other travels to report on. Next up: Wales.
Just booked a trip for our anniversary so would love tips.
On FaceBook I follow Icelandic photographer lurie Belegurschi. Awesome photography from Iceland.
This place, south of Reykjavík near the shore, has amazing Icelandic lobster: http://www.fjorubordid.is/english
Hi Cameron,
I went with my finance to Iceland last September for a three night stay. On our first day we toured the city of Reykjavik and saw sites such as Hallgrimskirkja church and Sun Voyager. Both of these were built fairly recently and I was disappointed as a history and art lover that there wasn’t much in Iceland. Iceland is a rugged island and the best sites over the next two days turned out to be the outdoor excursions such as the blue lagoon, riding the Icelandic horses and touring the Golden Circle. One thing I really want to mention is there is only one highway “Route 1” in Iceland and much of the highway has no barriers or street lights. Most tourists got picked up via tour bus from their hotel to see the horses or blue lagoon and got dropped off back where they came from. It was very efficient and easy considering how Iceland also lacks a public transportation system, save a few buses.Iceland was worth visiting because of its different landscape and experiences such as being able to stand between two tectonic plates! Glad I went but, its not a place I’d return to.
Interesting to see what is on the menu. In addition to lamb and fish there was Puffin. We also read they eat horses, but did not see that on a menu. Taking a bus from the airport to Reykavik is the cheapest way to go, we found it awkward. They pick you up at the airport, take you to a depot and the divvy everyone up according to your hotel. We opted to take a taxi on the way back to the airport
Iceland caters well to the tourist. Spent time in Reykjavik twice. Airport drop offs and pickups to wherever you are staying. Done many of the daytours from Reykjavik. Again the same type of service. Ride an Icelandic horse. Was a thrill! National museum of Iceland wonderful!Gulfoss waterfall, Blue Lagoon, hangout with locals at laundromat.eat drink and you can even do laundry. Get an Icelandic hot dog from the famous stand downtown. They love talking about president Clinton getting one there. The people are magical. I look forward to your research and eventual guidebook
Hey! I have put together a comprehensive travel map of the best of Iceland, hopefully it helps you find the best places to visit! It’s got the best hikes, sites, places to stay, hot pots, etc.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QZsWhuo0gixrCWV6N–_Yl5lYng&usp=sharing
I’ve also written extensively about my time in Iceland here:
http://justingoesplaces.com/iceland-a-land-of-diversity-part-1-south/
One of the top tips I can recommend in Iceland is doing the Reykjadalur hike, where you get the opportunity to bathe in a warm river in the midst of a lush valley surrounded by steam vents, volcanoes, and sheep. It’s quite surreal and beautiful, and not to be missed!
We are off for our 5th trip to Iceland. Leaving from Edmonton we arrived about 6 hours later. One of the most memorable moments I have of my first trip is our trip to Vestmannaeyjar,the archipelago in the south. My great grandfather left this island about 110 years prior. Arriving back to my roots was a huge moment. I had contacted a distant cousin to say that I would be on the ferry and would love to meet up. As I walked off the ferry and into the waiting area there he was. We had never met or seen a picture of each other but we knew. Welcome home he said as he gave me a big hug welcome home. I of course will recommend that your travelers go to Vestmannaeyjar. A new museum has recently been opened that my cousins worked very hard on http://eldheimar.is/en/about-museum/the-show/ Enjoy your time in Iceland and remind your travelers just to leave their footprints on the paths and to follow to signage about the dangers of the waves at Reynisfjara Beach. https://www.schoolsoutletsgo.com/blog/category/Iceland
Definitely check out the Snaefellsnes peninsula by car. You can actually see it in the distance while landing at the Reykjavik airport from North America. It had beautiful black sand beaches, volcanoes, and seals!
Amazing place, we rented a car, very easy to get around as so few cars are on the road. . We did the Blue Lagoon, the Circle tour and visited the waterfalls and glaciers. Lots of horses, and no, we were assured they don’t eat them. The air is very clean, and the fish is very fresh and tasty. Can recommend the Viking beer. Stay away from the fermented fish!
Don’t stay in Reykjavik longer than a day or so because there’s a whole island to explore! I’ve been twice and am planning a third trip. My favorite part is finding historic/cultural/nature spots that aren’t too far off the ring road (and drinking in hotpots and enjoying watching the lights at night!) There are so many lesser known waterfalls that aren’t too far off the beaten path. Gljúfrabúi is only about 50 yard from Seljalandfoss and much more impressive once you go inside (bring a really good raincoat/pants.) Svartifoss is a quick (and relatively easy) hike up to a very impressive waterfall. (and the camp store has skyr and beer for post-hike treat), and the glacier lagoon is also worth going to (despite it being touristy). My favorite area though is probably up near Akureyri. The baths up that way are great, the views from the fjord are amazing, and there’s a plethora of cabins with hotpots for rent. Driving and cabin staying are much preferred over hotels personally. As is going in fall as opposed to summer (no lights, and the sun can drive you a little crazy after awhile.) I really wanted to do the into the volcano experience last time i went, but we just didn’t have time. Hope you have fun! It’s one of my favorite places and WOW airlines has really made it affordable to go!
Just got back from our European vacation with an Icelandic stopover via Icelandic Air.
Icelandic Air was amazing and I would highly recommend flying the airline. Be prepared to bring a snack/food but the flight was smooth, fast, and efficient. Plus a GREAT value! Love the flexibility of being able to fly out of so many American cities and in/out of different European cities using Icelandic air.
We only stayed 24 hours but we were able to hit all the hot spots on the Golden Circle tour. We rented a Jeep Wrangler – great way to get around the rugged terrain. We found the roads to be bumpy even on the Golden Circle, so a more all terrain type vehicle is a must. We also just drove around the area taking in all the landscaping. It’s memorizing with the ice blue water and the high mountains.
My biggest tip would be to dress accordingly… we went at the end of April. It was cold, very cold, wet, rainy, and snowy, with episodes of sun and less wind… the weather really is ever changing. The warmer you can dress (with removable layers) the happier you will be experiencing the terrain. Warm clothes meaning, warm hats, heavy gloves, silk underclothes, fleeces, and a wind/rain resistant coat and pants. Warm shoes too…
Just my two cents ;). Excited that Rick Steves Inc is producing a book on Iceland. I used his books for Europe this past month and was disappointed there wasn’t much info on Iceland. And it really is worth a visit! Nothing like you will see anywhere else in this world.
I went last September and drove the ring road, loved it so much I returned this January. As they say, a picture is worth a 1000 words, so my tips are summed up by my Flickr photo album:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/111615580@N03/sets/72157672637827080
Been to Iceland several times, all in winter but here are some very outstanding and different things that I loved. New Years celebrations are insane! Fireworks like, well it must be experienced. Bonfires all over Rekjavic! Of course the Northern lights, hiking under Jokulsarlon Glacier in winter is spectacular. Hotel Skogafoss, great location. But my newest favorite thing to do in iceland, Public swimming pools, yeah sounds weird, but the pools are very social, great way to meet others and local people. Its inexpensive, relaxing and great cultural experience. Did I mention Hotdogs in Reykjavic? Skip the rotten greenland shark, let em live and imagine eating something else disgusting… Go for the Black Death, Brennivin (Icelandic schnaaps/ Aquavit)!!! Eating Fish(skin on)and Lamb in iceland is a real treat. Wool bargains in Vik! (nice pool there too)
some more things. View from Reyjanes lighthouse! Primo Restaurant in Reykjavic, good italian great seafood. Did a greyline tour there. guide was very good. Come prepared for wind, and whatever it blows with it. good lightweight rain gear! In winter plan your days outside for the limited sunlight and all indoor things when dark of course. National Museum very good. Penis museum? Just took a pic outside.
Oh and this is funny, B&B Keflavic airport hotel… If you are nostalgic about what its like to stay in an old US military barracks? this is the place. complete with foot lockers and everything! LOL It wasn’t fancy, but ok for a night stay and a good chuckle. Breakfast was good.
We LOVED our time in Iceland. Everything about this island is just spectacular. The people are amazing, they have awesome waterfalls, everywhere you drive is just too beautiful. We were there for a week and that’s where my fiancé popped the question (on the diamond beach!). We stayed up north near Akureyi and then drove out to the Rif area and had the most delicious Icelandic fish soup. Being out in the peninsula was very peaceful and we were able to get away from all the busy tourist areas. We then headed south towards Vik and did the glacier walk and went to the glacier lagoon. We stopped at Bonus grocery store to buy food to cook since we were staying in airbnbs around the island and didn’t usually have access to a restaurant. We also visited the blue lagoon which while it was very touristy we still had a great time! Can’t wait to go back for part of our honeymoon- that’s how much we enjoyed our time in this wonderful country!
I like to think that Utah and Hawaii had a baby in the North Atlantic and named it Iceland. We spent three unforgettable days in Iceland (end of September) on our way back from Scotland and I highly recommend it. That said, we were totally unprepared for the cost of goods and services. We had to quickly re-calibrate. I highly recommend finding a hotel that includes a good breakfast spread and fill up on it before hitting the road for the day. I don’t regret our trip for a moment, but shopping and fine dining was off the table for us. We found some moderately priced options that still provided great meals and experiences, but we had to do some additional homework upon arrival. In terms of the landscape, it does not disappoint, it’s everything I thought it would be and much more, no exaggeration.
Iceland in August 2015 included renting a car and driving the Ring Road from Reykjavik, northeast to Akureyri, southeast to the East Fjords (overnight in Seydisfjordur), then southwest to Vik, and back to Reykjavik. A
Our grandparents were born in the East Fjord area, so we had a special reason for taking the road trip there……but anyone woukd enjoy experiencing the periphery, with side jaunts to areas of interest. My one regret of our 10-day stay (we rented an apartment in Reykjavik) is that we walked the streets of the city every day, marvelling at the Carmel/SanFrancisco/Berkeley kind of city, the bookstores and other shops, the bay, statues/parks, etc….my one regret is not visiting the famous big church there (Hallgrimska?), with tall gift-from-U.S.A. statue of Leif Eriksson in front. Architecture: lava-flowing volcano form.
We just forgot to go! So much else to do…..Marvelous Iceland.
Did love the Blue Lagoon though! Hot-springs water, massaging waterfalls, wine bar, soft sunshine, clean air.
Will be in Iceland on June 15 for a week. Wish we had the book.
Just north of Sauðárkrókur on the north coast is Drangey Island. It’s out in Skagafjörður and the island is a bird-lovers paradise. The island is a home and nesting spot to thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, of seabirds, including (my favorite) puffins.
The island is only accessible by boat and only one family-owned company does tours. The trip and tour was reasonably priced and our guide, Helgi, was extremely knowledgeable in the area, the wildlife, the island, and the history.
The hike to the top of the island isn’t for the faint of heart, including some places where the hike felt almost vertical, but the payoff was outstanding. The view from the top of the 200m tall, flat-topped island are breathtaking.
The trip to and from the island are 20-30 minutes each way. We were lucky enough to see a pod of dolphins on the way back and our captain was kind enough to circle the area so we could all enjoy. If I remember right, the tours are summer only, about mid-May to early-September.
Sauðárkrókur itself is a quaint little village, and far enough off Route 1 that it doesn’t get all the backpackers and tourists of Akureyri. We stayed with a lovely woman, Madara, and her two kids.
Also on the north coast on the east side of Skagafjörður is Hofsos, home to the Icelandic Emigration Center and the “infinity” pool. The Emigration Center is informative, well-designed, and inexpensive. The pool is a fairly recent addition, and the story we heard was that two local women, tired of not having a local pool, funded the entire project. It’s built into the hillside and appear almost infinite when facing Drangey. We were there around sunset and it was breathtaking.
Last, the Blue Lagoon is world-renown, but we found our favorite experiences were when we got off the grid a bit and explored the neighborhood pools (our favorite being Árbæjarlaug, in “suburban” Reykjavik).
My wife and I were in Iceland a few months ago and enjoyed ourselves. The people are friendly and English is widely spoken, so no language barrier to contend with. We enjoyed our Golden Circle tour, Gulfoss waterfall, and visiting Thingvellir National Park to see the Rift Valley, where the North American and Eurasion tectonic plates separate. We also enjoyed seeing Strokkur Geyser.
Iceland is wonderful! Been there 2x, planning a 3rd trip. Don’t do the bus tours; rent a car and see things in depth! If you want to see the Northern Lights, do NOT go in the summer; it doesn’t get dark enough to see the lights. Go from October through the end of March. Even so, the lights are not predictable but there are several websites where you can check the forecast for that day. You need dark skies (so you’re unlikely to see the lights in Reykjavik unless it’s a geomagnetic storm) and minimal cloud cover. The lights show up between 11 pm and 2 am; some hotels will call your room if the lights are seen so you can run outdoors to look.
Everyone does the Golden Circle their first time in Iceland and that’s fine. You get a good taste of how beautiful this country is. There are waterfalls you can walk behind and into, waterfalls just a short hike away, glaciers you can walk alongside w/o a guide. Chunks of blue glacial ice scattered on a black sand beach. Horses and sheep grazing all over the hillsides. Crazy-looking landscapes created by the volcanoes. Hot springs to soak your tired bodies. Restaurants located inside greenhouses that are geothermally-powered. Fabulous fish (if like fish and chips, go to the Reykjavik Fish Restaurant, Geirsgata 4A).
The downside of Iceland is that it’s not a cheap place to visit. Even a hot dog (much better in Iceland than it is in the US) is $6-$7. Breakfast for 2 can run $25 or more. Figure on spending at least $20/pp for dinner without alcohol. DRINK THE WATER. Icelanders are proud of their tap water; it comes from the glaciers and it’s very pure and delicious and FREE. You can go to any supermarket and buy some Skyr (it’s like Greek yogurt) and muesli and make a cheap breakfast or snack.
You don’t need to get cash. Most everywhere takes credit cards and just about everyone speaks English.
The hike at Hveragerdi, over a mountain into a valley and eventually to a hot river that is popular with the locals. The reviews online make it sound easier than it is (at least for people who don’t ever hike), but oh man is it worth it. Highlight of the trip, best swimming experience ever for me as a traveler.
I went to Iceland in May 2016 and was there for 5 days. We stayed in downtown Reykjavik for the entire duration of our trip. This wasn’t practical at all and would NOT recommend doing this especially if you’re planning on doing short road trips each day. I would, however, recommending getting a car so you have that freedom to explore the beautiful island!
Even though we spent too much time in the car, each sight we saw was magnificent. We drove around the golden circle, to Skogafoss, Seljalandsfoss, Gullfoss and even to the Jokulsarlon. In my opinion, these are all must see sights. On our last day in Iceland, we went to the Blue Lagoon and it was the perfect ending to a chilly trip.
Our accommodations were also fantastic! We stayed in a guesthouse (HIGHLY recommend) that had a shared kitchen for us to utilize to prepare our road trip meals each day. As an avid RS travel guide traveler, we did as the locals do and shopped at the grocery store instead of going to restaurants for every meal. This was WAY more budget friendly and added to our experience.
As some of the other people have posted, Iceland isn’t a place to go to see amazing art or historical sights. There is some history to see, but in my opinion, you go to Iceland to see the natural beauty of the island and simple city of Reykjavik (make sure to check out the wool sweater and Christmas shops). I cannot WAIT to return as there is so much more beauty to see. Hopefully next time it will be with a RS book in tow!
There are two wonderful blogs to follow when planning/researching a trip to Iceland, written by locals. One is “Tiny Iceland” with lots of tips like how to photograph the northern lights, how to find the best swimming pools and “hot pots” etc. (I am a swimmer, and Iceland is a swimmer’s paradise!) Also for wonderful walking tours and info about the capital city, the “I Heart Reykjavik” site– http://www.iheartreykjavik.net/ features additional tips like how to rent a car, how to ride the iconic Iceland horses, (do NOT call them ponies.) etc. I’ve only been to Iceland twice and I can’t wait return.
A hot tip for clothing. If you leave Reykjavik you’re guaranteed to get wet and cold at some point. When I visited in late mid-fall I basically wore winter cycling tights the whole time and never regretted it. The warm fleece lining keeps you warm warm, the technical fabric on the outside repels water, and all things considered they’re about as chic as you can get for outdoor wear.
I have always wanted to go to Iceland, and this last December I went by myself on a convenient stop-over flight from Chicago to Frankfurt. BEAUTIFUL. I stayed in an Airbnb in Reykjavik’s center. Reykjavik is a very walkable city with lots of hidden gems. A fun museum with hilarious souvenirs is Iceland’s Phallological Museum it takes about 45 minutes to walk through. It has lots of specimens, and facts you can’t forget. The Hallgrimskirkja church is nothing compared to other European churchs, but the view from the top is breathtaking and worth a visit. Near the church is the Icelandic knitting Association, where one can buy the coveted “icelandic sweater”. Keep in mind many of the little shops do not have fitting rooms, and your expected to undress in the store or try things on over your clothing. With that being said, Icelander’s are extremely friendly people who are open minded and don’t care much for western taboos. As a solo female traveler I never once felt threatened or unsafe walking alone at night or at a pub. Being vegetarian it was hard for me to eat out, but I found lots of stuff to cook at their Bonus supermarket..which came recommended to me from my host. Their stores close at around 5 or 6 pm so plan accordingly if your cooking your own meals. I highly recommend Artic Adventures for tours. I did the “black and blue” tour with them which was cave spelunking and then snorkeling in the silfra fissure at the beautiful national park, Thingvellir.(where you can also see the world’s oldest parliament meeting site) If you’d like to visit the Blue Lagoon try to go on the day your flight departs or is arriving because it is only 20 minutes from the airport vs 45 from the Capitol. I also feel it is important to say to pack a raincoat and extra layers. The weather there changes without warning and can be pretty brutal, but that’s one of the appeals of Iceland! My next visit I hope to stay for 2 weeks because there is SO MUCH to explore. ❤
Took a weekend getaway to Snaefellsnes Peninsula from Reykyavik. Stay in Stykkyshólmur. (Secret Life of Walter Mitty was filmed here and cast/crew stayed in this town during filming, including Ben Stiller). You must visit the Library of Water Museum. 24 huge columns of glacial water captured in a museum setting. Acoustically perfect, docent strolls through museum every 15 minutes to sing in this odd, fantastic museum. Driving around the peninsula, before the national park, stop at the black pebble beach. Great hiking with stunning views here. Past the national park, take time to hike the Hellnar-Arnarstapi coastal hike. Flat but rugged hour hike between the two tiny towns. Excellent fish soup in the little ‘shack’ at the start (or end) of the hike! Stay at Hotel Hellnar up the hill for quaint clean rooms and amazing Icelandic breakfast buffet. Visit the seal colony on your way off the peninsula. Bring great gear. Weather is changeable and unpredictable. We love Iceland!
Since so many flights on Icelandair to Europe have a stopover, a section in the book on 6-8 hour daytrips and overnight trips would be helpful.
We stopped over for just about 24 hours on our way to a Rick Steves tour last summer and immediately vowed to return for a longer visit ASAP. We didn’t have time to do much but we thought downtown Reykjavik was clean, interesting, and we found a good cafe for a hot drink. The cathedral downtown was so amazing. We happened in when an organ concert was going and WOW. The interior was completely white and different from anything we saw on the rest of our trip. Finally, even though it’s touristy, I think the Blue Lagoon is a must do. The pools were gorgeous, a perfect temperature, we tried the facial muds and had a drink while lounging in the pool. And we had a very good dinner at the Blue Lagoon as well. Others commenting here are certainly correct that things are expensive in Iceland.
Have been to Iceland three times, once with elderly parents, once leading a photography group of middle schooler’s, and once with a friend. Have a gun in the winter and summer and would recommend to people that they do both. June is a great time to go because in his shoulder season in the hotel prices are not quite as high but there is a pretty good chance for good weather. As far as I can to help the biggest “mistake” people make is not getting beyond the Reykjavík area. Reykjavík is a marvelous city and that section of Iceland is great and well set up for tourism. But if you are willing to make the drive or flight up north to Akureyri, Husavik, etc it is well, well worth it. Pro tip:any guide book or a map that shows a bus running out to the airport in Akureyri is in accurate; the nearest bus stop is an extensive walked in not possible in the winter. We learned this the hard way and ended up hitchhiking in, which was fine because the locals are amazing but could have been a fiasco. Safety needs to be considered; a fair amount of tourists overestimate their abilities in the hinterland; when we were there in winter even an Icelandic citizen required a rescue and there was a quick change in weather. Myvatn nature baths def more “local” than blue lagoon but still touristy; local thermal baths are usually really well equipped and you can rent towels, suits, etc. Tourism is a big industry in the north but is less common than in the south, so that when we went places with a group of about 15 teenagers we attracted a lot of attention. When was the first American school group to ever visit the whale watching museum in Husavik, for instance. I have lots more were probably too much to write here! Olafsvik is definitely worth the drive on a clear Day from Akureyri but the old single lane tunnel getting there is an adventure and definitely needs to be described in the guidebook!
Have GONE in winter! Sorry; used voice text. You do not in fact need a gun at any point in your visit :-) please excuse any other typos or issues may be in the comment
Visit Beljandi brewery in the east amazing story behind it and truely amazing beer
Have not been, but on my bucket list. Would be most interested to know the perfect time of year and the perfect location to photograph the Northern Lights. I know this is like “guessing what the weather will be next month”, but educated information which might help the possibility of my being able to photograph this beautiful experience would be appreciated!
Be more than happy to “Beta” test the new Iceland guide book as we’ll be do touring the Island by car for about 7-10 days at the end of August.
We lived in Iceland for a bit and have gone back to travel there extensively. We have loads of info on our website and write regularly about Iceland. Feel free to reach out with questions!
http://luxeadventuretraveler.com/destinations/iceland-trip-planning/
Rent an apartment (homeaway etc. and one that has window shades, preferably blackout, if you travel there in the summer) and eat at home. You’ll not only get to know the locals in your neighborhood, but you’ll save lots of money on food. Groceries really are not that expensive and the lamb is great! If we hadn’t rented an apartment in the capital, we would have missed finding the local market and a great little bistro for an early evening glass of wine or beer. Even a burger can cost about $30. Also, be careful at the airport gift shop. Prices are high there too. Go to Iceland for the scenery, not to shop. Beer in local pubs is not too bad pricewise. People are friendly and many speak some English. Icelandair seems to offer reasonable long-weekend packages, so those would be good to check out as well.
I am one of those that love Iceland beyond words. Following my camera everywhere like an obedient dog looking for shots that tell the landscape to who ever might want to see it. Fortunately I have managed to build up a nice FB group page where I urge like minded to show me and others what they saw that captured their interest while here in Iceland. There are now tens of thousands that share this page with me and I´d be lying if I wouldn´t admit it gives me pride to have built such a tribute to my country. Lucky or not for me I´m Icelandic so I know much about y country, good and bad, and I try and give advice to routes, warnings for weather and snow in winter, names of places and waterfalls of delight and a word or two about lodgings here and there that don´t burn the inside of your wallet to crisp. I know my country well as well as it´s people and would want nothing more then for this interest the world is now showing to last but I fear this may not be. The country´s delicate nature along with governmental neglect have left it at chance in many places to cope with the trampling feet of hoards leaving the delicate flora in a mess. With this all said it was put to me by a person knowing you that I should contact you in case you´d want any assist or pointers to your upcoming project regarding Iceland. You´d be welcome to it.
So excited to read a Rick Steves take on Iceland! We combined it with a trip to Scotland and had an amazing time. Our Golden Circle tour with Iceland Horizon was among the best I’ve ever done in four years of living in Europe and extensive international travel. I can’t recommend the guide, David, enough! Here’s my TripAdvisor review with more details: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g189970-d1581470-r228772417-Iceland_Horizon-Reykjavik_Capital_Region.html#REVIEWS.
Don’t overlook the car rental company, Sad Cars. In 2016, we rented a 2000 Toyota Camry and drove the ring road for 7 days, counterclockwise, with no problems. Nothing much to look at but the heater worked and all the car necessities worked. Definitely looked like a local until we talked to someone. Love Iceland so much, we are taking our family of 10 at Christmas.
Such a great place!
We rented a flat through Airbnb which was far more economical than a hotel. We shopped at Bonus and made our own meals that was also a budget saver as food is very expensive.
Interestingly, we spent 10 days there and never used the local currency. They do not take US$ or Euros so it’s just easier to use a Visa or MasterCard for everything.
Start with a visit to the National Museum of Iceland for a good history lesson. Address: Sudurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík.
Then Reykjavík on foot to see Hallgrímskirkja church – take the $6 elevator ride to the top for great 360 views of the city.
Walk the streets for shops, food (they are proud of their hot dogs and pizza) and galleries back past City Hall to the Old Harbour. Whale watching boats go out daily and if you don’t see anything they will comp you another day so don’t do it your last day like we did!
The Tourist Info Center in the middle of Reykjavik is super helpful. If you don’t have a car you can arrange a tour to just about anything there.
Suggest if you are more than 2 people, rent a car at the airport in town and drive to the sites on the South Shore (Geysir, black sand beaches, waterfalls) and Thingvellir National Park. This is far more economical than the tour bus option. Driving is very easy in Iceland.
However, we did do the tour for Inside the Volcano (https://insidethevolcano.com) and it was so worth the money. This is a tour requires you to be very mobile as you trek across the lava field and are dropped via window washer elevator into a dormant volcano. It is truly a once in a lifetime experience.
Another must is a visit to the Blue Lagoon. You can spend an hour or two or the entire day. Pre-planning required for this visit as they book up well in advance. Suggest spending the extra Euros for the bathrobe and towels.
If you are a diver, don’t miss the opportunity to dive Silfra – only place you can touch two continents underwater. It’s a dry suit dive and about 34F water temps but very clear and another amazing Iceland experience. https://www.divesilfra.is
Favorite restaurant: Restaurant Fish Market – just off the town square. Very unique dishes, amazing desserts but pricey.
We went on a cruise to Iceland last summer, one of our favorite vacations. We went to a great restaurant outside of Reyjavik, it was called the Lindin in Laugarvatn. The teenage boys with us loved the reindeer burger, they decided it was the standard all other burgers would be evaluated against. Since we were on a cruise, time was limited but we hit most of the typical highlights. One of our favorites was a tour that explored the different stages of volcanoes, had lunch at a seaside town, & finished at the blue lagoon. We agreed it was the best tour we’d ever been on.
I’ve been twice. Contact Gunnar, owner of Friend in Iceland. He’s a native, brilliant, a main speaker all over the world on the financial crisis, the surge in tourism, loves the arts. I used his company when I escorted a group of 18 last September. Deleen wills
Icelandic yogurt, of course, it a delicious treat.
I stayed in “Backpackers Hostel” in 2011 or so. It was a hostel, but it was quite clean compared to other euro-hostels I’ve been to.
Prepare your wallet for the cost of food.
I’m so excited you are doing a guide book for Iceland. My husband and I will be celebrating our 25th anniversary with a trip there late summer. Been on internet checking it out. Will look forward to show and book and see if you went to where we are going. Thought after long trip we would take advantage of bus with reservations to blue lagoon to see if it cures jet lag.
Just spent three days (not anywhere near enough). Loved the scenery, the culture, and the people. The tourism infrastructure is phenomenal. They really cater to, and try to hrlp, tourists. They really want us there. But bresre, because of the currency exchange rste, prices are exorbitant. A simple lunch can easily costcosy for two.
Cameron
I am SO pleased that you are doing a guidebook of Iceland! I was there for 3 weeks last summer and used Lonely Planet’s book. Though there was some good info in it, overall it was very disappointing. Mostly it was confusing, as it tours the island west to north to east to south and we drove the other direction, as I think most people do.
Here are my (and my husband and grandson’s) comments:
Reyjavik attractions: “How to Become Icelandic in 60 Minutes” was cute but pricey, 3 of 5 stars. The Viking Settlement Exhibition is a solid 5 stars. A walk around Tjornin lagoon is 4 stars, featuring statues of Iceland’s literary figures. See the Harpa at night when it lights up and the sunset is reflected on the glass – 5 stars.
Restaurants: Saegreifinn in the harbor, 5 stars and worth the wait. Also the funky Chuck Norris Grill with excellent 4.5 star burgers.
In Steig the Guesthouse Steig was very comfortable and had a good restaurant, 4 stars.
The Jokulsarlon duck boat ride was a bit ginchy but worth the money to get up close to icebergs, 4 stars.
Seydisfjordur was a disappointment after LP’s write-up on it, but the iconic church was cool and the bakery in the Hotel Ardan was great.
Egilstaddir: the Icelandic Hotel Herad is a business hotel but is comfortable and has a great breakfast, 4 stars. Of course, there is the quirky, must-see solar Coke machine as you drive west on Hwy. 1. And there is a marvelous sod house museum (name?) on Hwy. 1 before you get to Myvatn, 5 stars.
In Akureyri the Guesthouses Saelhus have great efficiency apartments/rooms with kitchen. Some had a hot pot on the patio, 5 stars. Also there was a cute, smallish downtown and the most fabulous seafood restaurant called Noa, 5+ stars.
In Husavik another must-see is the Whale Museum. The Salka Restaurant, across the parking lot, is expensive but has excellent food, 4.5 stars.
Go to Asbyrgi to see the northern end of the split tearing Iceland apart – everyone goes to Thingvellir to see the southern end.
On the Snaefellsness Peninsula:
Styykisholmur has another marvelous seafood restaurant at the harbor, the Sjavarpakkhusith, 5 stars. Get there when they open as it fills fast with tourists and locals alike. The Franciscus Hotel there is funky – it was a convent and still contains an active chapel. Breakfasts are sparse but the rooms are good and the location is right, 3.5 stars.
Arnarstapi is very worth the effort, for the incredible seastacks along the coastline and the Jules Verne Memorial just outside the town of the same name, 5 stars and most of a day.
In general; way too many waterfalls to mention (our grandson wanted to photograph them all), but the most beautiful are Svartifoss, Dettifoss and Aldeyjarfoss.
Roads are good. Hwy. 1 is an adventure and off roads most definitely need 4 wheel drive or bigger. Heed signs about what to drive where!!
Many desserts are unbelievably gooey and licorice is a national obsession.
Finally, below are two of the blogs I wrote as we travelled. The photos didn’t come thru so use your imagination.
Thanks, Theresa
You Gotta Love Lakris
Buying a treat for your sweet tooth becomes a cultural experience in Iceland. The common candies are ubiquitous: Mentos in lots of flavors, Snickers, Twix, Milky Way, Mars bars and many varieties of Haribo gummy things. However, licorice seems to be the favorite candy of Icelanders. It comes in all shapes and sizes and intensity of licoriceness. It also comes salted, filled with other gooey confections and chocolate covered. Sometimes the chocolate coating is then covered in a hard sugar shell. Alas, there seems to be no red licorice in Iceland.
A Few Final Thoughts
Iceland is a land of many contrasts –
-unforgiving, desolate terrain and breathtaking beauty
-hot springs where boiling water gushes up from a hole in the ground and cold northern winds cut through my California coat
-hardy, self assured, confident people who do not suffer fools easily and waves of tourists from all over the world, some of whom truly act like fools
-waterfalls that spill over cliffs in hundreds of spots but, in a stiff wind, sometimes flow uphill.
There are traces of the historic Viking peoples and some structures from the early 1900’s, but very little remains from the centuries between. Chieftains fought with each other, the Black Plague hit twice and the Bubonic plague once, there were a few invasions by foreigners and Iceland was under Norwegian and/or Danish rule from around 1000 to their founding as an independent country in 1944.
Maybe because of all these things, Icelanders have a lovely optimistic way of assuring themselves that things will work out well. They indulge their artistic passions through music, sculpture, literature and design in clothing and architecture and furniture. They have a rich tradition of sagas told around the fire during long nights. And, yes, they do believe in trolls. They know this to be true because there are places in the country, like Hvitserkur, where stupid trolls stayed out too late and were petrified by the sun’s early rays.
Fridheimar Farm is a restaurant (only lunch) near Geysir. The restaurant is in the greenhouse where they grow tomatoes year round. The menu is tomatocentric and delicious. There is also patio seating on days when the weather is good. Reservations recommended. When you arrive you are given a brief tour of the greenhouse and an explanation about their operation.
Hi Cameron,
We got back last week from a European trip that we ended with 3 days in Iceland. It is a beautiful place and well worth a visit!
I would highly recommend renting a car to get around. Otherwise, you’re dependent on pre-booking tours or bus transportation. We used Orange Car Rental after reading some rough reviews about other places and were very happy with our experience. We based in Reykjavik at a hotel and drove ourselves to our varying destinations.
We toured the Golden Circle including the national park, geyser and Gullfoss waterfall, all of which were absolutely breathtaking. I very much appreciated being able to go at our own pace and not be rushed back onto a bus and on to the next destination.
We had also pre-booked the Blue Lagoon one day. It was a nice experience in the water and a great way to end our trip relaxed, but it was extremely crowded and literally packed with tourists so tightly that the locker rooms were difficult to navigate. Though I don’t regret doing it once, I would likely recommend one of Iceland’s many other geothermal pool options to anyone touring around. The crowds killed some of the magic and the staff seemed unenthusiastic about their jobs. I would only suggest it for someone who hasn’t had an Iceland geothermal experience and can fit it in before flying out of Keflavik because of it’s close proximity to the airport.
My husband and I are both vegetarian and had no difficulty finding veg or vegan food in Reykjavik, which is a very hip and trendy city with a varied and easy to find foodie culture. It was not always as simple while driving around Iceland. We were mostly limited to salads and the occasional veggie sandwich. Meat is big in Iceland and includes some animals that may surprise those from the US such as horse and puffin.
By my standards, Iceland is expensive. It cost us more per day (attractions, hotel, meals) in Iceland than in France, Belgium, the Netherlands or Italy. With some things, like attractions, I didn’t mind so much spending more money since that’s what you travel to see and the money often goes towards maintaining those venues. We really didn’t find such a thing as “cheap eats”- though it may certainly exist. Would love to see a section on that in the book!
Finally, I will say that you can tell that Iceland is still adjusting to the volume of tourists it now has yearly. I am delighted there will now be a Rick Steve’s Guidebook to accompany us on our next journey. We used the Lonely Planet book for this trip and found it basically functional, but lacking the depth of coverage and easy to read format of Rick’s books. Happy travels!
We visited Iceland in early May, 2015 for a week, seeing mainly the south and aouthwest of the country accessible by a two wheel drive vehicle. Loved it and thanks to some foresight we were appropriately dressed with wind proof pants and wind proof jacket over a heavy fleece. And could comfortably enjoy the outdoors
Our preferred method of travel is self catering which we did for four nights. Two in Reykjavik in the ‘Downtown Reykjavik Apartments’ and two nights in Borgarnes in a studio apartment in the Egil’s Guesthouse. Both were great, reasonably priced, and had everything we needed. While the Reykjavik apartments weren’t technically downtown they were only a block or so away
Two other nights were spent at Hrifunes Guesthouse (bed and breakfast) in the vicinity of Kirkjubaejarklauster on the south coast. Highly recommended and also recommend booking the supper.
While our restaurant meals were expensive, the prices in the groceries were comparable to here in Canada.
Highlights of the trip:
Awesome scenery, besides the mountains and glaciers, we enjoyed the golden circle including hiking in Thingvellir and soaking in the Secret Lagoon near Fluor, many waterfalls ( our favourite was Hraunfossar near Borganes where the water flows from beneath a lava field), black sand beach near Vik, ice on the black sand atJokulsarlon, the rock formations at Reynisfjara, and, most impressive of all, driving across Skeidararsandur. After seeing the rock crystals everywhere the church in Reykjavik made more sense.
Besides the scenery we enjoyed tEgil’s Saga and the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes, particularly the variety of art instalments illustrating the saga., the Skogar Folk Museum which included several historic houses and a church, and a visit to a geothermal plant near Hveragerdi. We would recommend all of the above.
The only site we visited that was underwhelming was the fumaroles and geyser park in central Hveragerdi although even that was interesting for the garbage spitting fumarole story.
We finished off taking the long way to the airport around the peninsula between the airport and Reykjavik, a lovely drive and recommended if you only havet time for a daytrip or two..
Whew! Hope this is the kind of information you were looking for. We would return in a heartbeat and maybe add some walking in the interior.
Oh, where to start? Iceland is unlike any other place I’ve ever seen (and probably any other place on earth). Where else do you get glaciers, volcanoes, lava fields, waterfalls, hot springs, ocean, etc. in one island the size of Kentucky?
As others have mentioned, layering and dressing for the rain (and wind!) are a must.
We rented a car and drove the perimeter of the island on the Ring Road, staying in guesthouses along the way. Most had wonderful breakfasts included, and those that didn’t had kitchens for guests to use. We were able to cut down on the cost of lodging by choosing places with shared bathrooms. There were multiple bathrooms, and we never had to wait more than a few minutes.
We loved the area around Akureyri, especially Myvatn, which has some particularly interesting geology. (Weird things happen when water & lava meet.)
We ate lots of interesting things, including whale, dried fish, hotdogs, ice cream at gas stations (all mint ice cream is blue in Iceland), and all things tomato at an eat-in geothermal greenhouse called Fridheimar).
Jokulsarlon, the glacier lagoon, is also an awesome sight.
I could go on all night, but I’ll leave it there. Have a great trip!
I plan on renting a camper van and traveling around the country for two weeks in 2018. I would appreciate tips on what to see and the best places for a 60 years young female solo traveler to visit.
Iceland is one of those amazing destination that you can visit over and over again and still see the same location differently each time due to the weather and dramatic landscapes. Cant wait to read more on your trip.