Italy’s Ready to Be Your Friend

Rick Updates His Florence GuidebookI’ve been in Italy exactly a month, and I’m struck by how Italy gets intimate with its visitors. Nowhere else in Europe does a country share its quirky secrets like here. And, even though I don’t speak the language, I make more friends here per visit than in any other country. Anyone can do it. That must be why so many Americans marry into this culture.

I feel at home in Italy, whether struggling onto a crowded bus in Rome, enjoying the same birdsong Francis did in Assisi, sipping a cocktail overlooking Siena’s Il Campo, sitting on the banister of Florence’s Ponte Vecchio for a midnight street-music concert, or sharing a quiet moment on the harbor with a chef done with a long day of cooking in the Cinque Terre’s Vernazza.

Italy is a land ripe with people who want to connect. On the trail, I marvel at the dry stone walls and a man tells me he’s a stoneworker at heart: He says he has “stone in [his] blood.” A local guide explains his theory that women on cruise ships drool a lot because plastic surgery has made their lips big, but numb. I tell a student in a cafe that the CIA has killed Osama bin Laden, and the student says, “Yes, the same people who created him.” A woman at breakfast says, “For an Italian, it is heart-cutting to pay taxes.” Talking with a couple in an enoteca, the woman tells me that any older man with no ring is trouble. Her husband says, “We Italian men are good hunters, because our women are so complicated and hard to conquer.” When I ask the woman in the tobacco shop what it’s like to live in Vernazza, a harbor town of 400 people, she says, “It’s a big high school, but we’re all different ages.”

On your next trip to Italy, assume locals find you interesting. Connect. Share. They have a story to tell. Italy has a story to tell.

A Lonely Train Ride to Rome

Riding the four-hour train from La Spezia to Rome was actually lonely. Paying extra to get away from crowds was entirely unnecessary. Thumbing through my Cinque Terre book, now filled with its changes for the 2012 edition, was like a celebration. I learned so much in four days in paradise, and it’s all massaged into the new edition.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Chatting with Chef Claudio in Vernazza

While Vernazza is inundated with tourists in the middle of the day, by 10 p.m. it’s nearly a ghost town ‘ just a stray cat, the village wanderer, and the boys at the restaurant winding up a hard day of serving great food. Chef Claudio at Gambero Rosso sends his best wishes to all the Americans who keep this town employed.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Coffee Break in Sestri Levante

I branched out a bit, researching towns that would make the cut if the Cinque (5) Terre were called the Sette (7) Terre. Sestri Levante comes with an adorable sandy beach ‘ something you won’t see in the more exotic Cinque Terre towns. Taking a short coffee break, my guide Andrea explains his theories about American women on cruise ships who’ve had plastic surgery and drool a lot.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.