House by Bernini

If you’re looking for sumptuous art, head to the Gallery Borghese, which gets my vote for the best interior of any palace in Europe. Every inch is richly decorated, and, from the perspective of Baroque sensibilities, it works. We were filming there for three hours on a Monday, when it was closed to the public. Delightful experience. Join me for a quick little walk with Cardinal Borghese, Canova, and, of course, the father of the Baroque movement, Bernini.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Tagalog Birthday

It seems I always spend my birthday filming in Europe. My present this year was being legally inside Rome’s great sights with our big camera and tripod. We had a great day in the National Museum, Colosseum, and Forum. As we spent well over $3,000 for the day’s permissions, we were shooting vigorously until being kicked out at 7pm. Everything had gone wonderfully, and just a few minutes before 7:00, I was celebratory. As cameraman Karel got the last angles on the Arch of Titus, I met a gang of happy Filipino tourists, and asked them to sing me “Happy Birthday” in Tagalog. They obliged, giving me a wonderful birthday memory.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Hillary in Rome

As I was dining al fresco in Rome, just off Campo de’ Fiori, a helicopter droned overhead. A group of tall, trim men in black dress jackets wandered around listening to their earpieces. While I’d chatted with them (and left thinking, “Wow, no sense of humor”), I didn’t put things together. Turns out Hillary Clinton was eating dinner a block away, and they were scouting a little walkabout for her. An hour later, an energy swept across the square like a tiny urban tornado. The word spread: It’s Hillary Clinton. I jumped up from my plate and walked through her entourage to shake her hand. She works so hard, I just wanted to say thanks. She asked me what I was doing here. “We’re making a TV show for PBS, ” I told her. She said, “Let’s keep PBS alive.” Hooray for Hillary.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Italian Bureaucracy in My Dreams

In the last month I’ve produced five TV shows in Florence and Rome. In the process we’ve worked with wonderful people, without whose help we’d never have been able to do our work. To each of them I am very thankful.

During the filming process, I gained a respect for the cost to a society of a business environment encumbered by a bulky bureaucracy. Italians must be wired differently than Americans because they live and work in a society almost crippled by a cancer-like bureaucracy. I worked with many good people during the process, and don’t mean to complain about them personally. But the system they work within is, as they themselves kept saying while trying to work with their counterparts in other wings of the bureaucracy, “incredibile” (pronounced “een-kred-EE-bee-lay,” while shaking a hand in the air).

Bureaucrats kept saying to me, “I know you don’t have to deal with this in America” ‘ and then would soldier on, producing a fraction of what they might have if they’d simply been able to stand up and reinvent things in the interest of productivity. Here’s my take on it as an observer (who’s thankful to work in the efficient business environment we enjoy in the USA):

Within Italy’s bureaucracy are many zones of responsibility that are separate and equal, mutually dependent but unable to communicate efficiently, if at all. Each apparatus has legions of people working within it, but is hierarchical to the degree that people on a lower level are frightened into inaction if the senior person, called the “responsabile,” is not present. And it is the higher-ups who seem to be important enough to be not at their desk, for various reasons. Responsabiles seem disinclined to empower people below them to make decisions, as they think this would take authority away from them. No one below would dare question the way this throws a monkey wrench into the hope of getting anything done, so they just keep treading water on the government dole. Therefore, if one person is out of town, out to lunch, at a meeting, on vacation, or whatever, a simple decision cannot be made. Like a strange and nightmarish rash, the bureaucracy grows and grows.

In the last month, while trying to get permission to film in a particular place, I would often need to list exactly which pieces of art we hoped to photograph. Since branches of a hopelessly bureaucratic system ‘ almost by definition ‘ do not communicate with each other, we would need to repeat the process of making this list several times. Then, when we’d finally get to a sight, the responsabile there would sit down and scour our paper for something out of order. Typically, we could photograph whatever we wanted as long as it was on the list. If we neglected to add something ‘ even as simple as an extra portrait bust or case of jewelry ‘ we would not be allowed to photograph it. If we asked why, the answer didn’t take logic into consideration. It was just a matter of what the paper said. End of story.

Anyone with a degree is referred to respectfully as “doctor” (dottore or dottoressa). Directors of one sight would complain about not getting any media promotion…and then people at the same sight would refuse to let it be featured in a TV show. And getting the two decision-making arms (which didn’t realize that they were at odds with each other) to talk to each other was not an option.

I found the bureaucracy so pervasive that people with initiative have become demoralized, which is understandable among people whose initiative gets them nowhere. This results in an internal brain drain. I asked a very impressive and well-off parent what he aspired to for his kids, and he said, “To get a government job.” Why? “Because they’ll have job security and a paycheck at the end of the month.”

I rarely dream about my work. But for the last month, my frustrations with the Italian bureaucracy have worked their way into my dreams.

The Cinque Terre National Park…in Disarray

You know I love Italy. And because of that, its exasperating bureaucracy and inability to purge corruption from its civil servants “cuts my heart” (as people say here). The current scandal rocking the Cinque Terre National Park is a good example of persistent corruption. (I’ll talk bureaucracy in my next post.) Here’s a sidebar I just added to the next edition of my guidebook on the region:

Since its creation in 1999, the Cinque Terre National Marine Park has brought lots of good things to the area: money (visitors pay about €5 a day to hike the trails), new regulations to protect wildlife, and improved walkways, trails, beaches, breakwaters, and docks. There are park-sponsored information centers and even tiny folk museums.

The vision of the park was exciting ‘ everyone united and thinking creatively for the good of nature, the local communities, and their many visitors. The park administrators were well on their way to creating something truly unique in Europe. But, as is so often the case in Italy, the men entrusted to lead were corrupted by power and money. And, rather than stop them, many of those under the park leaders scrambled to win their favor and get in on the job security and easy money. The result is a vision in shambles and a park in disarray.

The park was run by its president, Franco Bonanini, a powerful man ‘ nicknamed “The Pharaoh” for his grandiose visions. In a personal visit a couple years ago, he conned me into thinking he really was a visionary committed to the region and its precious park.

But Bonanini created a medieval-style system of favorites and enemies, with the help of Riomaggiore’s mayor, and others. Starting and stopping construction projects, funneling money here and there, and extorting people to preserve their power, this cabal derailed the park vision. In 2011 they were removed from power, but the damage had been done. The good ideas of the park (info offices, baggage deposits, mountain-bike opportunities, little museums, elevators for the infirm, and even maintenance of the trails) have been scuttled.

Today, Bonanini is out of power, and the park’s run by a man from the central government whose vision for a fix, it seems, is to run the park as a business. But a park is a park, not a business. Ironically ‘ and sadly, for the residents ‘ using the park to wring money out of visitors while giving little back is not good for the livelihoods of the region’s hard-working residents. So, for 2012, no one knows exactly how the park will or will not be functioning. Thankfully, the villages and dramatic land between them are bigger than any corrupt modern-day pharaoh. For the latest on the park, see www.parconazionale5terre.it.

What does all this mean to the visitor? Not much. The Cinque Terre is still my favorite stretch of Mediterranean coastline. The people are endearing. The food, culture, and nature are uniquely enjoyable. I just thrill at the thought of people working together for a grand and noble vision that helps a community’s economy by wisely treating a park as a park, rather than making a park a business. And so far, the Cinque Terre has failed in that regard.