The Airbnb Amphitheater

Buona sera from Lucca! I’m at the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro — a beautiful square that’s actually not square at all. This is the “Place of the Amphitheater,” a round piazza that echoes the Roman arena that stood here 2,000 years ago. I’m here with Chiara and Luca, two guides from Bikes and Bites food tours — and we’re discussing the very modern phenomenon of Airbnb.

All over Europe, you can see the impact that Airbnb has had on historic neighborhoods like this one. As an advocate for travelers, I appreciate the value and cultural intimacy that Airbnb provides — but I also acknowledge the reality that Airbnb drives up the cost of living for locals, changing the character of places we’ve long known and loved.

What about you? I’d love to hear your thoughts on the ethics of Airbnb.

Travel Bite: Beautifully Preserved Lucca, Italy

From time to time, we share a random video to fuel your travel dreams. In this clip from my TV episode about Tuscan side trips, I join a friend for a lazy pedal around the top of the Renaissance wall in Lucca, Italy.

The wide, fortified wall effectively keeps out both traffic and, it seems, the stress of the modern world. Within the wall, which now functions as a circular community park, visitors find a relaxed Old World ambience, elegant streets, and pristine piazzas.

My Colleague Cameron Hewitt Is Ruining Lucca

Cameron Hewitt (my wonderful co-author and fellow guidebook researcher) is ruining Lucca. That’s my job: to take an undiscovered, untouristy gem and then tell the world all about it. Cameron’s just done that with Italy’s Lucca (just a stone’s throw from Pisa) in an insightful way supported by delicious photos as only Cameron does. Sure — it’s just everyday, Old World Italy with no famous art masterpieces; it’s not on anyone’s bucket list…that’s the whole idea.

cameron-italy-lucca-street-6-640x428

Cameron is reporting on his European travels in tandem with me this spring on his blog. If you enjoy Cameron’s take on Europe, be sure to also “like” his Facebook page — he’ll be reporting from Salzburg and the Austrian Alps before meeting up with me and our TV crew in Bulgaria and Romania. Don’t miss out on Cameron’s keen insights.

Centuries-Old Technology Still Keeps the Thieves Out

Updating the town walk for the Lucca chapter in my Italy guidebook, I was impressed at how many shops on the main drag had been in the same family at the same location for over a century. And this jewelry shop (with a storefront that completely folds up — leaving just a green, wooden wall at night) has been in the Carli family for several centuries. In this video clip, as Signora Carli seems to guard the front door, Signore Carli shows off his very old-school safe.

La Vita È Bella

I’ve been lucky to spend a good part of 2012 in Italy, researching my guidebooks and filming shows for this fall’s new television season (debuting across the USA this week). Several times a week, by chance, I’d run into our tour groups and their amazing guides. Their enthusiasm was contagious. Squinting (I don’t wear sunglasses) at the energy in their smiles, surrounded by dazzling sunshine, it struck me that the sun in Italy seems to have a special glint to it — as though it’s telling visitors: Life is good; let’s embrace it.

Especially in Tuscany (as our guides are experts at revealing), lifelong travel memories are like low-hanging fruit…yours to harvest. At a favorite new trattoria, the chef cut open a cantaloupe-sized rock of aged pecorino cheese, sniffed it like a fine wine, and then passed it to me. The dank, rustic smell took my mind straight to an agriturismo barn I had visited — where random rays of sun cut between the weathered boards, filtered by floating dust from the hay, and bathed the sheep in a timeless Tuscan light. The next day, I returned…needing again the fragrant ritual splitting of the pecorino.

On that same trip, in Florence — on the wrong side of the river, in the crusty Oltrarno district — an artisan drew me into his shop as if inviting me on a journey. Under a single dangling light bulb, he hammered gold leaf into a dingy halo, breathing life back into a faded saint that was originally crafted by a neighbor of his… five centuries ago.

A few days later and an hour’s drive away, I was inspired by the simple joy of watching an old man bicycling with his granddaughter atop the wide, fortified wall that once protected proud Lucca from its enemies (and now seems to corral the town’s Old World charm). Then, on rented bikes — with those same energetic smiles, the steady leadership of their guide, and that persistent sun glinting off everything in sight — another Rick Steves tour group frolicked by…embracing life in Italy.

Without ignoring the plight of people in turmoil or who are struggling, for the vast majority of us, I believe it is important to be mindful of what a relatively wonderful, peaceful, affluent, and stable (if not sustainable) age we life in. I’ve produced about 140 TV shows in the last 20 years. Shooting each show is a six-day scramble that ends with great relief when we’re finally done. For the first forty or so, I signed off with “I’m Rick Steves. Until next time, happy travels.” For the last hundred episodes, I’ve finished the show saying, “I’m Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on travelin’.” This summer, on a gondola, surrounded by the watery majesty of Venice, I was moved to change it up a bit. Script covered and show in the can, I looked at the camera and said, “I’m Rick Steves. Life is good. Be thankful. Ciao.”