We are ready to kick off work on our next TV series, and will film three new shows this May in Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia, and Montenegro. We did one show on both Slovenia and Croatia a decade ago. Now we know the area much better and can dedicate three episodes to the same region and do it right. The scriptwriting process is the first step. Then we set an itinerary, line up local friends, and get permissions. For these three scripts, I’m helped by Cameron Hewitt (co-author of my Croatia & Slovenia guidebook). Below you can see how I proposed the basic show structure and welcomed Cameron to volley back my rough outline with more flesh on it. Here are the just-fertilized eggs of three TV shows:
Show #1: Best of Slovenia (culture, food, local guide/friends Marijan and Tina?):
Ljubljana (market, Plecnik, Art Deco, prison hostel)
Bled, Lake Bled (Tito’s villa, castle, boat, island, traditions wedding, crème cake)
Julian Alps, Soca Pass loop (war sites, Kobarid museum, Italian memorial, the actual drive)
Skocjan Caves (better than Postojna)
Predjama Castle (so visual, not much beyond that)
Piran (finish with Venetian charm and Slavs in Speedos)
Cameron’s Notes:
Ljubljana: architecture, especially Joze Plecnik — NUK, Cobbler Bridge, his house
I know some good viewpoints for skyline shots of Ljubljana
Bled: skip the weddings since you covered it well last time?
Julian Alps: suspension bridges, watersports in Soca (look for kayakers), Hemingway connections
Predjama: Do a picnic there? Otherwise needs just a few seconds–not much there
Traditional Slovenian culture: beehives, hayracks, tourist farms (like agriturismos)
flight over Julian Alps? Local polka music–i.e., Avsenik?
In Karst (caves) section, visit a prsut-production facility? (prosciutto, very typical in Slovenia)
Consider Logarska Dolina? Very remote mountain region, more rustic than Bled
Consider Ptuj? Only interesting for Kurentovanje, but could get guys to dress up in the costumes
Skip Piran? It’s so similar to Croatia, nothing unique about it–rather have more time for others
Smart to skip Lipica
Show #2: Best of Croatia
Dubrovnik (must include in this episode while actually covered in next, acknowledge too short a visit in this episode)
Korcula and boat to Split (town, Moreska Dance set up, sobe, actual ferry ride with island scenery)
Split (Diocletian, Paseo chic harbor front)
Plitvice (a good lamb on a spit bit)
Zagreb (naïve art, cathedral, square, the pilgrim spot in action, modern prosperity, freedom
Motovun/Istria, truffles, rustic meal)
Rovinj (climb tower, bike, commie monument, market action, old town, hotel/B&B, St Euphemia, ship builders’ museum, wine bar funky, wine bar chic, best meal)
Cameron’s Notes:
Klapa Music in Split Vestibule is a must–maybe in lieu of Moreska?
Korcula: Did very well in last show, consider doing quickly–maybe in combination with Hvar to show two islands. Moreska Dance is OK but clichéd and well-covered before…skip it? Also since you already did the sobe routine on Korcula I’d do it elsewhere for this show (ideal in Dubrovnik).
Islands: Let’s aim to make this quick & dirty, acknowledge the islands but move on right away. 30 sec each in Korcula and Hvar would do it.
Fishing Boat: One cool (and unique) way to do the islands might be to contact our friends in Split who have refurbished a traditional Croatian fishing boat and take tourists out for day-trips. I think they often work with an actual salty Croatian fisherman/captain. Might be more trouble than it’s worth, but at least it’d be more interesting than sitting around a snack bar on a Jadrolinija ferry. Instead of spending a day in Korcula, could spend a day on the seas with this boat, go to Hvar, etc.
Split: Talk about local sculptor Ivan Mestrovic (works in town, gallery on outskirts)
Zagreb: Don’t get hung up on “modern prosperity” and “freedom”–it’s ancient news and was never really relevant in Yugoslavia anyway. Instead focus on the thriving urban side of Croatia (contrast to the idyllic coastline)
Motovun/Istria: Go to Konoba Astarea for traditional feast, esp. peka (lamb in copper pot at giant fireplace); could do a truffle hunt in Istria, but I think you already did this in Italy
Rovinj: I wouldn’t linger on the wine and food stuff here–it’s far better elsewhere in Istria (and Croatia). Focus instead on how picturesque/atmospheric the place is. Emphasize usefulness as a home base.
Hvar: Instead of/in addition to Korcula to give some balance (and not overemphasize this one island in two different shows). The Benedictine monastery where nuns make lace out of cactus fibers is fascinating, great views from fortress
Pula: very quick visit to show the amphitheater and ruins in Old Town (in context of Rovinj daytrip)
Opatija: for a taste of Habsburg opulence (ties in neatly with Istria) War Damage: Visit Otocac to show damaged buildings, cross made of shells, contrast Catholic vs. Orthodox church, roadside memorial just outside of town. Don’t overplay the war, but acknowledge/explain well.
Show #3: Dubrovnik and Balkan Adventures
Dubrovnik (jazz, bar on wall, predictable sites, wall, war, story of Yugoslavia, Pero’s B&B)
Bay of Kotor (Kotor, Perast, boat to island, Lady of the Rock tour, Kotor town, switchbacks)
Sveti Stefan and Budva Riviera?
Cetinje, monastery in action?
Serb Republic, Trebinje, Nevesinje
Sarajevo (1914 stuff)
Mostar (bridge, jumping, commerce, church, reconciliation, war, cemetery, youth scene, modern life, hope)
Cameron’s Notes:
Dubrovnik: Skip the jazz–not a big deal here. Hole in the wall bar is a must. Could combine Pero with visits to other great sobe (e.g., Jadranka) to emphasize value over hotels. Also consider monastery museums, Serbian Orthodox Church (maybe irrelevant because of trip to Serb areas), ice cream, beaches (some with great views of the Old Town), etc.
Old Fortress: The ruins of the old fortress are right above Dubrovnik. Great views, and also we know a driver who’s a neat guy and was an actual veteran of the war, could take us up and give us his firsthand account. Could be a fresh look at the war, rather than just a rehash.
Bay of Kotor: I’d add the fortifications climbing the hill above Kotor, maybe even hike up there. Also add the super-scenic restaurant at the spring?
Republika Srpska: Good choices: rich town (Trebinje) vs. poor town (Nevesinje). In Trebinje, aim for market day? Not much else to see in town, but there’s a huge church on the hillside above with glorious icons and historic ties to Kosovo–could provide good big-picture connection to “Serbia.” If we show bombed-out mosque in Nevesinje, I feel it’s only fair to also show bombed-out Serbian church in Mostar–powerful symbols of how the war was bad for all.
Near Nevesinje: I took a tour group to an ancient Orthodox church with a very charismatic local guide. It’d be fun to re-create. Mostar: Obviously this should be a major focus of the show. It’s a fine balancing act: It’s important to tell the story of the war and show the inspiring images of the survivors. It would be huge to get actual footage of the bridge being destroyed (like the movie in the museum) to splice into the show–really brings the story home. However, it’s also essential not to ignore the more typical “tourist” sights of Mostar: mosque visit, Turkish houses (these are fascinating with a good guide), shops and galleries on Coppersmiths Street. It’s a fine destination even without the war, so we don’t want to let a fixation on the war overwhelm the show.
Other Mostar experiences: Balkan food (grilled meats, ajvar, burek); smoke a hookah at the cool Open Sesame bar; Alma can explain the social ritual of Turkish coffee
Sarajevo: Frankly, we might have a show even without Sarajevo. Could save that for next time.
Skip: I would skip Cetinje (redundant with Serbian church stuff in Bosnia; also, I find it boring in person, probably even more so on TV) and Sveti Stefan (I think it’s still closed for renovation, and besides, it’s nothing more than a silly footnote. Might only be worth mentioning since it’s famous.)
From here, we decide which stops make the cut, establish a show structure, and actually write up rough eight-page scripts, which we’ll spend six days each on in May producing our new shows. We do that for ten more shows, and in October of 2010, we launch our next public television series.
Rick, You have no peer when it comes to producing quality travel programs. Stick with what you do well.
Glad you’re starting to dive deeper into the former Yugoslavia (might we even see a Kosovo episode someday?). I fear that the memory of the horrors of the 1990s have faded too quickly from the public consciousness. Here’s hoping that you can remind your viewers about the second terrible genocide of 20th century Europe… I really fear the lessons have been lost too quickly.
Rick, Great choices. I followed your book through Slovenia and Croatia a few years back and absolutely loved it. I hope your new shows will bring more people to the area. Beautiful countries and very nice people.
Rick, it’s very interesting to read how you and Cameron approach creating new shows. Appreciate seeing how you go back and forth with ideas to come up with a winning balance of education, information and entertainment! We used a number of your books to take our kids to England, France and Italy last summer and it was a very rich experience we’re still talking about:)
I can’t wait to see these shows. When are they scheduled to air? I’m just getting into family history and would love to tour Croatia and Slovakia with you. Do you have a trip scheduled?
Rick, you’re on target here with parts of europe next on my traveling screen. Thank you, from the upper blue (creative) coast
Given my wife and I will be on your Best of the Adriatic tour (Slovenia, Croatia, etc) in mid-May, I hope we run into you. Tina was a great guide, so I hope she shows up in your filming. Thanks, too, for the notes. I’m printing this post so I can take it along…we are spending a few extra days in Dubrovnik at the end of the tour before flying home.
My daughter and I just spent a month in Croatia And Slovenia, with a day trip to Montenegro. Your upcoming book should be most interesting, including what you say you will. As we were driving from Sibenik to Plitvice, we came upon an open air museum that is being put together as a memorial to the war, with a bombed hospital, wreckage of an airplane, tanks and other memorabilia — can’t remember the town it was in. We just passed it, saw it and turned around to view the whole scene. Another small tour bus was there at the moment, so someone knows about it. A definite sobering stop and one to mention. Don’t skip the dance in Korcula. We had tickets, sat down and then it poured! Sorry we missed the show! And don’t skip the brides in Bled — we were there for two — very fun to see!
Spent two weeks last October driving through Slovenia and Croatia. A farmhouse chalet in the countryside by Bled – mushroom soup, traditional pastries, all housemade. Don’t forget the open air market in Split. We had an “apartmani” near there and shopped for beautiful vegetables, sausage, cheese, etc. to make simple meals. The market women are a kick – with their functional but funny English and good natured sales skills. In Dubrovnik we stayed just outside and above the old city in “Apartment Panorama”, 3 rooms with balcony and stunning view. There are plans to reconstruct the funicular (damaged in war). Rovinj was an afterthought; we had an extra day. It was end of season, but a nice relaxed mood, and the weather was still gorgeous, the town very walkable.
I am really excited to see a new show on this area, last year when we were flying home from Italy, I sat next to a young women who had been visiting her husband is Dubrovnek and Montenegro while he was in school abroad. It seemed like a beautiful location, but was quite an experience for her to get there and back from the West coast. Hopefully you can simplify the area for us.
I suggest a day trip from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo. Well worth it.
I’m new to your website. I’m excited about getting to read all the blogs. I downloaded your audio book, “Post Cards from Europe,” from iTunes the other day and have enjoyed it immensely (it was only like $3.95 – what a deal!). I’ve already pre-ordered your updated version from Amazon. My wife doesn’t get you but I really enjoy your every-man approach to travel. I’m a big fan. Thanks!
Rick, always glad to hear you have more shows “in the oven.” There are few things I look forward to watching on TV anymore and even fewer I want to own on DVD, but your shows are always at the top of my must-see list. I recently saw, and then bought, your Iran special, and it was superb, terrific, maybe the best you’ve yet done. And taking an hour really allowed you to stretch out. I wish all your shows were that long. And Karel and Simon do a great job too. Karel sure knows how to find the beautiful shots. Often when we go somewhere we find the exact spots he shot to get some of the best shots of our own. You have a very talented team working for you.
I would suggest visiting the ruins of the Roman city of Salona just outside Split. They are very impressive and were almost deserted when we were there a year and a half ago. I also agree with Cameron’s suggestion that you climb the fortifications above Kotor – it is a tough hike, but worth it!
Absolutely include Alma in your Mostar piece! Both her personality and first-hand knowledge of Mostar were a highlight of a RS Tour that I took in that area this past autumn. She has a presence that will come through on TV.
We were just in Croatia, Bosnia and Montenegro and did Slovenia a couple of years ago… imho.. add hvar to the list..the fort and the views from the franciscan monastary back into town would be great. zagreb..the tile roofs, st. catherine and I think St. Francis church which isn’t in the book ..is totally charming! don’t forget the farmes market with the honeycomb in the honey jars and the handmade cheese that looks like tupperware molds! in kotor do a shot from the north gate entrance into town..with moat and the wall to the left Mostar, the photo musuem right at the foot of the bridge rocked me to my emotional core, I had tears running down my face throughout. regarding a Mostar video..I have one our personal website..that I found online and embedded ..you should try to track down the owner of it through youtube. If you want to check it out go to ourpassportstamps.com and then into the where we’ve been section Thanks again Cameron for your advice you’ve give me …you’re generous act of 5 minutes of your time .. made a world of difference in our trips throughout Eastern Europe.
Can you take me with you?
I loved Slovenia, and liked Croatia. Glad you’re covering them in more detail. Some thoughts: I would consider putting Mesterovic under Zagreb rather than Split, so you can point people to the museum in Zagreb. http://www.mdc.hr/mestrovic/atelijer/index-en.htm Organized Soca pass loop tours can really be worth it. Rafting on the Soca, view from the Vrsic Pass, a really good day all around. In Ljubljana, the Celica hostel is pretty cool. Hope that makes that show. When ajvar comes up, it could be connected with cevapcici. Excellent food for busy travelers to eat on the go, much like hamburgers here, or doner in Germany. If it’s one or the other, I would take Piran over Rovinj. Maybe mention the catamaran from there to Venice? In Budva, “Stari Ribar” was really good for seafood. http://www.touristinmontenegro.com/members/restaurant-stari-ribar/restaurant-stari-ribar.htm
Great blog. REally helps plan a trip.
I’ll be in Piran in May. Really wish I was spending more than 2 days in Slovenia. But oh well. Hopefully you’ll update your blog while you’re there so I can get some on-the-fly tips.
Rick, We saw your Croatia/Slovenia piece from 2000 on PBS. Having been there in 1998 on tour, we could understand why it was so abbreviated. However, since then, we’ve been back to the area four more times; 2002; 2004; 2006; and most recently in May 2008. We stayed in small, family run hotels in Trogir (not to be missed), and in Cavtat (just south of Dubrovnik, but without the steep climbs and high prices). Trogir is a short distance north of Split and is worth a day visit. It’s practically untouched since the middle ages and has some of the best Venetian architecture and seafood restaurants on the Adriatic. You can also find those sailing ships (really nice ones) docked at Trogir. Called “Island Hoppers”, they rent for a week at a time and seem to be booked constantly. These are not “rust-buckets.” Most are quite sleek and comfortable. We also stayed on Hvar for a week at the Hotel Podstine (meaning under the rocks). It’s a short distance from the city center, but is absolutely lovely, and totally up to western standards. Plus, it overlooks one of the prettiest views on the island. Other spots we liked were Mljet (an island national park near Korcula); and the island of Krk in the northern Adriatic. There’s an ethno-museum and a Franciscan Monastery there, plus an organic winery called “Nada”at Vrbnik. The owner used to live in Chicago and the staff speak excellent English. You can get there via a bridge from the mainland near Rijeka. There are some baroque towns in northern Croatia that weren’t touched by the war, but seldom get noticed. One is Varazdin; another is Cakovec; and there’s a castle at Trakoscan, near the Slovenian border. All are northeast of Zagreb. In Istria, check out Hotel and Restaurant Zigante at Livade. http://www.zigantetartufi.com. They are noted for their white truffles, which are said to be among the finest in Europe. I’ll get back to you on some “hidden gems” of Slovenia in another post.
Mr. Steves, I am sure things for your upcoming Croatian show are set, but I wanted to suggest an idea. I own a the only true wine bar in Dubrovnik’s old town. By this I mean that I offer over 100 different types of wine available by the glass to taste. I think you should talk a little about Croatia’s wine. Here in Croatia we have very complex red wine, and amazing white wines. I would love the opportunity to discuss this idea further, or at least buy you a glass.. Please stop by D’Vino Wine Bar, Palmoticeva 4a, Dubrovnik. We have a great deal to talk about, and taste, when it comes to wine. All the best and safe travels! Cameron Wilson
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I need a picture of the cross made of shells — can anyone help me?