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Let me stoke your travel dreams for 2009 by sharing some of my favorite European experiences, roughly from northwest to southeast. Maximizing the experience is a dimension of smart budget travel that’s just as important in challenging times as saving money. Imagine these…
On Ireland’s Aran Island, feel like the westernmost person in Europe as you lie on a rock with your head hanging over the cliff-edge, high above the crashing Atlantic at the Iron Age fortress of Dún Aenghus.
In Dublin, be the only tourist among 50,000 cheering fans in a stadium for a hurling match—that uniquely Irish game that’s as rough and tumble as airborne hockey, with no injury timeouts.
Belly up to the bar in a neighborhood pub in Edinburgh and drink not beer, but whisky. Ask a local what they like best and why—you’ll find that whisky is as refined as wine, and suddenly you feel like an expert taster.
Hike the best-surviving stretch of Hadrians’ Wall, and picture being posted there back in ancient Roman times to keep out the scary Scots.
Sit in the choir for an evensong service in the York Minster—surrounded by men and boys singing their hearts out for the glory of God today, in a church built for the glory of God hundreds of years ago.
Immersed in the wild and pristine vastness of England’s Dartmoor, trek from the hamlet of Gidleigh through a foggy world of scrub brush and scraggy-haired goats to find your own private Stonehenge. Arriving at a humble stone circle, sit and observe blackbirds and wild horses, and feel the echoes of druids worshipping and then partying right there thousands of years ago.
At your recommendation, we went to York Minster Evensong, and it was one of the real highlights of our trip and is clear in our memory though it was several years ago. We were transfixed with the voices and visions of the Minster, the choir and the people. Outstanding experience. Another trip to Ireland, during our three weeks we kept close to the ground and loved the friendly people, the cadence and heft of the language, and the beauty of the land and ocean. Two Librarians, standing outside the small Dingle library watching riders and their horses meander down the street among the many cars and uniformed school kids was a different sort of picture. We were certainly gobstruck†for most of the trip; we are anxious to return! Thank you!
How about this one? The first time I tried fish and chips in London. Expecting something similar to the American version of small fish sticks, imagine my shock (and delight) upon being handed what was effectively half of an entire fish. I entered the shop expecting a small snack, and left after consuming a large meal.
My hotel was in the South Kensington area of London, just across the street from the Tube station and a 15 minute walk from the Kensington Gardens and Kensington Palace. But my office for the two weeks I was there was in Canary Wharf, and I have been on those escalators. My week usually began when I left the hotel at 7:30 AM. I rode the Tube, changing lines once, for a 45 minute commute to the office. I headed for “home” around 6-6:30 PM. But most days I stopped on the way to the hotel at a local pub for dinner. Some of the better, affordable, and typical food dishes are served at the pubs. Typical food grub varies from steak or seafood, to sausages or meatballs, and of course fish and chips. The names are quite interesting, too. I few of the places I stopped at were Dickens’s Inn at Saint Katherine’s Docks, Rat & Parrot on Gloucester Road, and Prospect of Whitby on the Thames. This last place claims to be the oldest still in service pub in London, established in 1520, during the reign of Henry VIII. They have a sign out front listing all the monarchs that have reigned since they opened. The backside of the pub is on the Thames, and in the old days you could enter from either the street or the river.
Deciding to stay in York a few extra days and alter our itinerary because we met cool people to hang out with at the hostel . . . Running into some kind of a festival in Bath . . . I want to save money and do a RIck Steve’s tour of Ireland next year!
York Minster — proud-standing cathedral. Beautiful stain-glass. There was an orchestra rehearsing with a choir, when I visited the Minster. Sound travels in cathedrals in an unique way; every cathedral is different.
i would say the same thing about evensong in the york minster, but would have to say evensong at salisbury is probably a bit better. i can remember having the minster (re tourists and locals, anyway) to myself just two days before the xmas concert of 2000, sitting far to the rear of the cathedral. the voices of the choir was aetherally beautiful. each time i take friends and family, that is one stop that is a must.
Driving around England in a rented car. Getting out of Bath was a harrowing adventure in itself. Cruising down the country roads that were barely two cars wide was terrifying and thrilling all at the same time. I only went the wrong way in a traffic circle one time in Cirencester. The look on the poor brits face when she saw me coming at her was priceless as I swerved into the next available exit. We couldn’t have enjoyed the Cotswalds or the Stratford area half as much without the car, but I was relieved to finally turn it in and catch a train to London.
I relate with Mike about driving. My husband and I were on a VERY NARROW backroad and came upon a “big white delivery truck” coming towards us. I was driving and following another car. The two cars had to back up until we could find a wider spot in the road. Now “THAT” was exciting. The driver passed us within inches and had a big smile on his face. All in a days’ work. Also the evensong in Bath was absolutely lovely and wonderful. Singing hymns in the huge cathedral was such an overwhelming experience. Of course what parts of England and Wales we visited was GREAT!! I want to go back!!
As a kid I learned the song “Galway Bay” and about 10 years ago, with the help of Rick’s guidebooks, my family and I visited Ireland and actually saw “the moon rise over Cladagh and the sun go down o’re Galway Bay”. I expected that our fortunate experience would be repeated the next evening; however, the three following days were cloudy, rainy and overcast. I felt so badly that I never caught the moment on film and have “rued the day” that I failed to capture that grand event for my life portfolio. Rick, your posting today has made me decide to return to Ireland and stay in that fabulous town until I can re-capture that moment and document it for all time!!
Rick, I ordered your DVD of Iran and thoroughly enjoyed it. You did a great job by avoiding the temptation of making many political commentaries. I also know that you work with NORML. The next time you’re in the nation’s capital, please let me know. Thanks
In 1983 a Kilkenny tour guide insisted my father and I attend a hurling match at Croke Park in Dublin. I remember we bought Kilkenny badges to support our new friend (the guide) and that Kilkenny supporters were in the minority. It poured down rain that day and we screamed ourselves hoarse while standing (everyone stood back then) among the Kilkenny fans. Anyone who thinks hockey or rugby are rough sports should attend a hurling match. No one leaves the field when they get hurt and it was disconcerting to see a couple of young men playing with blood running down their faces from open head wounds. Despite the blood, and my ignorance of the game, it was one of the most thrilling sporting events I have ever witnessed. If you crave an authentic Irish experience you can’t beat hurling!
The train from London to Edinburgh (I could go on about how much we loved Edinburgh, the whiskey tasting, the amazingly medieval streets, the fierce wind in May and the view of the Castle from the Apex hotel) but the train was great.
It took several hours but we enjoyed a wonderfully modern train, smooth ride, huge picture windows, Internet access and a very classy British breakfast (forget if it was English or Scottish)served on white linen and the whole nine yards. Scenery was industrial and country.
Enjoy!
Josh
Bath & London — I can never go to England without going to both cities.I can’t get enough of just walking the streets and neighborhoods. B & B in Oban and Edinburgh — wonderful Evensong in York (and I can’t tell you why because it is hilarious and embarrassing for someone and we chuckle every time we think about it). I love York almost as much as Bath & London. Westminister Abbey – the history and stories it tells London Eye — yes modern but an awesome experience
Walking across Tower Bridge, London, at dusk and facing west to watch the sunset go down over the Thames on a sunny, brisk day in the November autumn air. Now THERE’S my classic London experience.
Rick, england and europe first fell in my travel sights during fall 1995. With your england book under arm, this traveler hurled himself into the european experience-british style. My first day, included getting lost between victoria rail station and my b&b, just down the street from the lime tree (a hotel much enjoyed seven years later on a london city tour but unknown to me then.) There the east indian owners introduced my nose to exotic spicy aromas wafting from their kitchen behind the front desk. Leading me up several lights on narrow, steep stairs, they pointed to my room, which appeared more than closet-like. Down the hall a door marked toilet was next to one marked shower. Thankful for the tiny room sink and bed-like space with blanket, I crashed briefly. Yet, mindful of sage, rick’s travel-wise advice, a walk of several miles kept me awake til nightfall, and a re-scheduling jet-lag fighting rest. Around the still, morning neighborhood of belgravia the walk first highlighted a tidy, gated square park, bottle shop by the fish and chip store next to the kings arms pub, down from the tesco-what more could a traveler need! It all got better and better. Thanks again rick, these memories all seem as if they happened yesterday.
Playing the ‘Old Course’ in St. Andrews!
Rick, I’m so glad that you make a point of recommending Dartmoor to {American} tourists…I lived in Ivybridge, ‘Gateway to the Moors,’ for three years and found it very unfortunate that so few of my fellow Americans ever ventured into the southwest of England or were really even cognisant of its existence! And after all, there’s no better place than to experience ‘real England,’ than among the thatched cottages, colourful fishing villages, and misty wildernesses of Devon. Thanks Rick, I love watching your show. Erin