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| I was greeted by smiles. When I explained where I was from, the smiles got bigger. Hooking fingers seemed to be human nature—we can be friends and can get along. Enlarge photo |
Cars merge through major intersections without traffic lights as if that’s the norm. And, surprisingly…it works. Enlarge photo |
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| 10,000 rials is worth a dollar. While Washington made it on our one dollar bill, Khomeini made it on every denomination here. Enlarge photo |
Women are covered yet beautiful. In a land where there is no cleavage, a wisp of hair can be ravishing. Enlarge photo |
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| Locals find me quite interesting. Routinely I’ve looked up from my note-taking and seen people gathered, curious, and wanting to talk. Enlarge photo |
After a few days in Iran, I can’t help but think how tourism could boom here if they just opened it up. There are a few Western tourists (Germans, French, Brits, Dutch) but they all seem to be either on a tour, with a private guide, or visiting relatives. Control gets tighter and looser depending on the political climate, but basically American tourists can visit only with a guided tour. I meet no one just exploring on their own.
Tourists are so rare and sights are so few and obvious that you bump into the same people day after day. Browsing through picture books and calendars showing the same 15 or 20 images of the top sights in Iran, I’m impressed by how we’ve managed to see, or are scheduled to see, most of them. The Lonely Planet guidebook dominates – it seems every Westerner here has one. It’s good.
Our guide makes sure we’re eating in comfortable (i.e. high-end) restaurants (generally in hotels). They say tap water is no problem, but I’m sticking with the bottled kind. I wasn’t wild about the food on my first trip. It’s much better now…but still ranks about with Norwegian cuisine in terms of excitement value.
Driving is hair-raising. For several days now we’ve been zipped smoothly around by Majid, our driver. To illustrate how clueless I am here, for three days I’ve been calling him “Najaf.” And whenever a bit of filming goes well and we triumphantly return to the car, I give him an enthusiastic thumbs up. Finally today he and our guide explained that I’ve been confusing his name with a city in Iraq…and that giving someone a thumbs up in Iran is like giving them the finger.
Majid drives our eight-seater bus like a motor scooter, weaving in and out of traffic that flows down the street and between lanes like rocks in an avalanche. At major intersections there are no lights – everyone just shuffles through. It works differently here than it would at home – people are great drivers here, and, somehow, it works. I think I’ll actually drive more aggressively when I get home. Adding to the chaotic traffic mix are the pedestrians, doing their best to navigate a wild landscape. Locals say when you set out to cross a big street, “you go to Chechnya.” I’m told that Iran loses 30,000 people on the roads (in cars and on foot) a year.
The money is complicated. There are about 10,000 rial in a dollar. (If you exchange $100 dollars you are literally a millionaire here.) Ten rial is called a tuman, and some prices are listed in rial, others in tuman…a tourist rip-off just waiting to happen. (I had a shirt laundered at the hotel for “20,000.” Was that in rial, i.e. $2? Or was the list in tuman, which would mean the service cost $20? It was hard to tell.) There are no coins and no state-issued large bills. Local banks print large bills to help local commerce. To tell a counterfeit, you rub the number with your finger – if it’s the real deal, the warmth makes the numbers disappear just momentarily.
Women are required to cover their hair with a scarf. Local women are expert at wearing them to show just enough hair to grab the eye. In a land where showing cleavage is essentially against the law, a tuft of hair above the forehead becomes the exciting place a man’s eye tends to seek out. Tourist women are also required to wear scarves. After appreciating the art of local women being provocative with their hair and scarves, the tourists’ efforts seem quite clumsy.
There are no urinals anywhere. I did an extensive search: at the airport, fancy hotels, the university, the fanciest coffee shops. No urinals in Iran. I was told that Muslims believe you don’t get rid of all your urine when you urinate standing up. For religious reasons, they squat.
Neckties are rarely seen, as they’re considered the mark of a Shah supporter.
Restaurants use Kleenex rather than napkins; there’s a box of Kleenex on every dining table. There is absolutely no booze or beer in public. While I keep ordering a yogurt drink (similar to Turkish ayran), our guide and driver enjoyed “malt beverages” – non-alcoholic beer that comes in beer bottles or cans.
Many times, while I’ve been sitting in the shade quietly reading or writing while the crew got the shots they needed, people have come up to me and curiously asked where I’m from and what we’re doing. I chatted with one young man who didn’t look as if he was particularly in compliance with the revolution. After we said goodbye, he thought about our conversation, returned and said, “One present from you to me please. You must read Koran. Is good. No politics.” The Islamic Revolutionist government has been in power for 30 years now; this man’s generation knows nothing else. But then, why should an evangelical Muslim be any more surprising/menacing/annoying than an evangelical Christian?
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Rick We know about as much about the everyday Iranians as they about us. Thank you for your efforts to show the human side of Iran and for avoiding the politics that drive our two countries apart. Real peace can only come through knowledge.
Great observations, Rick. Keep up the good work. BTW, I guess Ebert and Roeper would have to be especially careful about giving movie reviews in that country, no? lol
Rick. Wow! What an adventure you are having. As other posters have said, your insights into Iranian culture are fascinating. Because of your excellent writing skills, I feel like I’m right there with you. I have a few Iranian friends that live in Wales, and I know those yogurt drinks are fantastic! Keep up the good (peacemaking) work. Thanks for taking time to blog. I cannot wait to read more about your journey and to see the completed show. Peace to you.
You’re making good progress, Rick and crew. We definitely need more knowledge on the culture of Iran. Thanks for the insight. Keep safe.
Rick great blog. Can you get pork there? Or is that taboo? I am not sure I would want to spend a lot of $$ to get somewhere, only to be told what to wear, how to wear it etc. But will continue to learn about it thru your eyes. keep the Koran close, I hear it may save your life, they don’t “cotton” to anything other than muslims, you get 3 choices to change and then lose your head. per a friend who is Muslim. Keep the blogs coming Nancy from Edmonds washington
Sorry Rick but obviously you haven’t been doing your homework. The country of Iran is almost the size of Western Europe and so naturally you’re not going to see everyone. The Lonely Planet forum is full of posts by people who visit Iran on their own. Neckties were once the sign of “Westoxification” but no more. People don’t wear them because they’re resreved for formal occasions like New Years, when they’re sold on every street corner. The printed large bills are also called money orders or cashiers checks in the USA. There are no urinals because the risk of “splashback” is considered unhygenic in Islam. For good food, you’re going to have to stop eating in public places and go to an Iranian’s home. There is a travel blog by another traveler named Simon James who learned about the “thumbs up” sign in Iran: “So there am I, for the first two weeks in Iran, smiling profusely and all the while telling the locals to get stuffed.” http://www.travelblog.org/Middle-East/Iran/North/Zanjan/blog-225647.html
The water in Tehran is one of the best in the world. Comes straight from the mountains snow. Regarding the money: Tomans and Rials are like dollars and cents. Iranians always use the toman to measure money (but hotels and other official places may use the rial for official purposes.) Just remember that the blue/green bills are approximately 1 dollar each. Try giving a vendor too much money and see what he does. In my experience, every single taxi driver corrected my error. It would be very dishonorable to take advantage of a guest. There may be no booze in public, but lots in private. The man who told you to read the Koran wasn’t evangelizing. He’s just saying that religion and politics should be separated.
Rick: Great blog. I have been following with great interest and enjoy the education you are giving us all!
Dave and I have been logging in more frequently to read of your adventures in and perceptions of Iran. So very interesting. Thank you for this trip! Looking forward to the show and perhaps, someday, a visit there ourselves.
This particular topic is the one of the most interesting blogs since you wrote about Berlin last year. Thanks for the update on Iran. Question: Was the 20,000 in rial or in tuman? First Comment: What is it with the those yellow and green cars? (See your photo of traffic.) Do the Iranians prefer certain colors for their autos? Second comment: Thanks, “fern” for you thoughtful comment on May 19 at 10:47 on Rick’s first Iran blog. I’ve ordered a couple of the books you suggested for reading after reading further reviews.
Thank you so much for keeping us updated with your trip news. I just wanted to mention that Rial ( equivalent to cent) is rarely used in Iran. You only see it on the bills. If you go shopping, pretty much everything is in Tooman ( equivalent of dollar unit). seems confusing at the beginning but there are a lot of countries( ex. Turkey, Japan, etc) that have too many zero issues.
I laughed when I read your assessment of the flow of the traffic….it made think of the flow of traffic around the Arc de Triomphe and the fact in Rome street signs and lights are suggestions. I also laughed about the finger gestures thinking of how careful you have to be in Italy as well and when the older Scottish guide come to visit you in Edmonds and asked the police where he could find some good “crack” (talk and debate)Good post very informative. I’m not crazy about the thought of having to wear a head dress but we have to cover our shoulders and knees in Italian churches so what the hey….
Just out of curiosity, do you really read everyone’s comment? sometimes I see hunders of comments for only one posting.
Rick, Great info, keep up the excellent work. Wish we were there with you. Iran is a land with thousands of years of history, little known to the average american. Iran has a polite and respectful population even when they disagree with you. It will be great to read and see your experiences outside of Tehran.
I eagerly look forward to each update, learning about a culture that is portrayed in our culture as hateful and religiously fanatical. It is nice to see what life is like in our “enemies” country without the political slant. Thanks for the eye-opening Rick!
More great photos – love seeing them. Thanks, Rick! I especially like the people photos – it just brings us all so much closer together. Looking forward to the next entry. :-)
It all sounds ghastly to me. I wouldn’t want to go there if you paid me, and I cant understand what you’re doing there. Yes, people in Nazi Germany had everyday lives too; my father was there for study. But that doesn’t change the true reality: acquiescence in/ support for a hideous fascist rule. Please – if you want to move outside Europe, try the Far East or S. Pacific or such……
Mary Suzanne: The yellow cars, as well as the white ones with an orange strip are taxis. The green ones, airport taxis.
Rick: just curious, but it’d be interesting to know what the price of gas is at the pump in Iran. Also, what about shopping: are any recognizable Western products for sale in any of the shops? (I’m assuming because of sanctions, you don’t see any U.S. products like Coke, Pepsi, or Starbucks coffee, but I could be wrong… maybe they have a black market, or counterfeit knock-offs). And what about toilet paper?? Anyway, yes, I’m real curious about common household products sold at their stores. And do they have any big-box stores, be it grocery or hardware, like in U.S. or Europe?
I just returned from two weeks with a Global Exchange trip to Iran and I thought the food was fantastic: try the traditional Persian restaurant in the Ferdossi Hotel in Tehran; the Soofi restaurant in Shiraz; the Abassi Hotel in Esfahan (don’t miss the saffron ice cream there!). And it’s my understanding that American tourists must travel as part of a tour group, with a guide, but that the Europeans can get visas that allow them to do independent travel. I found wearing a headscarf to be less troublesome than I had anticipated. I was nervous about that but got used to it. It was a small price to pay for the chance to experience Iran and its people. We too were met with friendliness and graciousness and welcome everywhere we went, even more so when we said we were from the U.S. Iranians always asked us what we thought of their country and where we had traveled. It’s like a knife in my heart now whenever a U.S. politician or pundit talks about the possibility of bombing Iran.
I was surprised to see the picture of the Muslim women on our blog page. I thought it was forbidden to photograph them?
LINK FOR HUNDREDS OF PHOTOS OF TEHRAN http://www.worldisround.com/articles/98910/index.html
FOR ALL THOSE WHO WANT A GLIMPSE OF THE REST OF IRAN & PEOPLE http://www.worldisround.com/articles/73022/index.html
Rick, thanks again for your trip. Sorry, I totally forgot to tell you about thumbs up, and FYI: one US Dollar used to be 78 Rials in 1978-79.
Come on people, you can find a lot on fancy boys and girl driving fancy cars here. For the neckties , that was an old belief or actually taboo , but nowadays things have much changed dear rick ;)Enjoy your trip and taste our traditional cuisine DIZI ( don’t confuse with dizzy ! ;) ), you’ll never forget it since the eating has it’s own traditions !
Your blog about toilets reminds me of the writings of Khomeni during those last days of the Shah. His writings included admonitions of being wasteful if you used more than one pebble to wipe.
Thank you thank you thank you for doing this. When I got the e-mail about the Iran blog, I was so pleased, and, I admit, very surprised. I have read the blog with great interest. The greater understanding this trip and blog provide to westerners cannot help but further the cause of peace.
I am impressed with the way the Iranian men dress. Those pictured in the photos look as if they could have been students at any college campus in the U.S. It is interesting to think about similarities like this. And by the way, I could only imagine some Iranian tourist coming up to me in America and shouting “Tucson!” and giving me the finger with both hands! Very funny!
Read “Reading Lolita in Tehran: A Memoir in Books” by Azar Nafisi to know about the impact of the Islamic revolution on the lives of educated women in Iran. http://www.amazon.com/Reading-Lolita-Tehran-Memoir-Books/dp/081297106X Fascinating, enlightening and unforgettable.
KathyM mentioned traffic at the Arc de Triomphe, and Rome, and having driven an RV, never an auto, in both places many times, I wrote == Most countries have traffic “Laws and Regulations.†Italy has traffic “Hints and Suggestions.†=== and Sweetie thinks it would be best if she could just close her eyes while we drive around the Arc de Triomphe. She thinks I might like it best if she had her mouth closed also. ==== As for those Green and Yellow cars, I don’t think they look all that great, but just look in any parking lot and see the ugly, ugly, ugly design and the non-color of today’s terrible vehicles. Never since the Model T Ford, have the automobiles looked so boring and uninteresting.
Reading Lolita is a piece of trash dspite all the hype, and dismissed by Iranians according to the Washington Post: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A60490-2004Jul18.html
Rick, if your mission is to “build understanding between Iran and the US” then you need to mix in the crowd. make a few local friends and go to their house for dinner. see how life is really like. see that there is more that they live for than money and pursuit of happiness. making a TV show give you an artificial experience with too many restrictions.
What’s Sad is that most people on this blog are truely scared of Iran. Its amazing how people can’t seperate government and people… Truely Sad.
I love reading your blog. I find this VERY interesting. Keep blogging. I enjoy reading it! :)
RICK..YOU SHOULD MAKE A TRIP LIKE THIS TO COLOMBIA SOUTHAMERICA!!!!
Yes, it’s true, they use kleenex instead of napkins, they never serve water at the table, they drink tea incessantly, BUT THEY ARE PULLING YOUR LEG ABOUT SQUATTING TO PEE. ONE WHO KNOWS
Visited Tehran back in the Shah’s days and traffic lights, I have old super 8 film of cars that were across the intersection before the light turned green. In Persepolis look for graffiti including one from Stanley in the 1880’s. It’s interesting to see the records from the old days of visitors.
Also Persian food is SO GOOD, I had no idea they had so many kinds of kabob, it’s almost like Eskimoes who have 500 names for snow. Basmati rice is so delicious except I draw the line at tadig. And who knew yoghurt on rice could be so good together? The little tiny quails with the barberry sauce, the persimmon stew, the layered rice, the yoghurt and chicken casserole, the twice-ground shaped kabob, the chicken kabob….my mouth waters…and then there’s the really esoteric stuff which I don’t eat, like the pickles, but which some people rave about. THEY REALLY ARE PULLING YOUR…LEG…ABOUT SQUATTING TO PEE. ONE WHO KNOWS.
Thanks for the insight. I hope that relations between our countries eases as shows like yours are gradually allowed in. I must ask: what kinds of restrictions are they placing on your crew? Are you constantly “minded”?
Rick, Thank you for visiting Iran. I wish you could have visited as I did in 2003, ‘through the back door’, as the husband of an Iranian-American and free to travel on our own. We were greeted at the airport at 2:30 a.m. by over 20 relatives and friends with whom we had barely kept in touch. We talked for hours before bed over tea. I woke early and walked on my own to a park where women in full chador did aerobics in the mist and men walking around the fountains greeted me in English “Where are you from? America? USA? Welcome, welcome, it has been so long since we have seen an American!” This was the universal greeting I received, from police, military, ordinary people, and even religious pilgrims visiting the shrine of Shah Chiragh in Shiraz. I was obviously a foreigner at a restuarant that honored guests with a flag of their country; since they had no American flag, they profusely apologized and insisted I accept a gift of an Iranian miniature painting. In Esfahon, an off-duty taxi driving with his family, gave us a ride back to our hotel, turned off the radio that was criticizing American government, and refused any payment for going out of his way. I saw some anti-American graffitti, but anti-mullah graffitti in equal measure. I cannot convey to you the warmth, hospitality, intelligence, and wit of the Iranian people. I was struck by Iranian youths who ‘were not interested in politics’ but knew fine detail of politics in Iran, Europe, and US. I was fortunate that Iranians have a wonderful sense of humor and irony. And Rick, the food is delicious! I love the food of Italy and France – but it is easy to find bad food there also. I cannot vouch for Iranian hotel food, but the cuisine in private homes and restuarants is characterized by fresh ingredients and a culinary tradition embracing the best of Middle-Eastern, Eastern, Indian, and French influences, while maintaining a distinctly Iranian flavor.
Dear Rick, I have read all entries. I appreciate the information and the ‘feel’ one gets for the country and the people. I was moved by your comment posted before your visit. You said something like you were going to Iran so that you could understand the country and the people because as an American “every bullet and every bomb has my name on it”. Many Americans feel that same sense of responsibility, but do not have the opportunity to meet other cultures face-to-face. You represent many of us. These blogs express your humanity. Wishing you safety and continued enlightenment.
No one is asking the obvious question prompted by the Iranian president so I’ll put aside my Midwestern manners and have a go. Rick, have you seen any homosexuals?
Actually, I had bad food in both Rome and Venice. Restaurants for tourists, way over priced. Iranians are like Italians: very VERY family oriented. The center of the home is the kitchen. Persian cuisine is ancient and historic. The eggplant, saffron, melons, spinach, ice cream … all from Iran. Even the mint julep.
As usual, I feel like I am travelling with you! Thanks for the “balance” in your writing that others promise, but never deliver. btw, I’m encouraged by the overwhelming support for your effort from the posters on this blog. I do notice that the critics don’t mention many travels or associations with Iranians, yet have very pointed opinions. I wonder how one forms such strong opinions without any personal knowlege? As one who has travelled to Iran both during the Shah and after the Shah and has maintained both Shah friends and present Iran friends, I thank you for your efforts at helping us all evolve into more love and less war. Hey: Coffee shops! That is what I would like to hear about. I am a coffee “nut”, (pun intended, of course)and would like to hear about sidewalk cafe’ life.
We really enjoy ALL your efforts to help us (Americans) become better travellers and world citizens. Thank you!
Your blog shows a bia against the United States. You tend to see our way of life as evil and that we are self centered while the good Iranians nice and comfortable in their lives. I do have your travel books and will continue to use them, but I have to filter our your opinions as one sided. With all its faults, we live in the greatest counry in the world. I have yet to see you find fault in other cultures, yet have no problem in seeing the worst in us.
Rick, my uncles house has a urinal if you need one!!! Also, as said above…IRAN HAS AMAZING FOOD!!! You just have to eat food at someone’s house. The water in Iran is much cleaner than most of the water from the US as it comes from the mountains. Don’t fear the water, you will not get sick. Something I found amazing about Iran was the access to clean water available to everyone. You will see clean water fountains (much nicer than any in the US) all over the streets. This is a response to an Imam who almost died or did die of thirst…because of this Imam’s lack of water, Iranians believe that no one should die of thirst and thus have clean, cold, free water available everywhere. Iran is not a 3rd world country. Yes, there are western products in Iran; it’s not Mars. You can even buy an Ipod, or celebrate Valentine’s Day, or buy cheap crap from China… To the other comment leavers: don’t be ignorant. Iran is not Nazi Germany. Iran does have homosexuals. Iran even has transgendered people. IN FACT: if you have been diagnosed with gender disphoria, the Iranian government will help pay for your sex change operation. My cousin went to university with 3 people in Tehran that underwent sex change operations sanctioned and payed for by the Islamic Republic. I bet a million dollars BUSH would never support something like that.
Am I really in Iran? This is the question I must keep asking myself as I freely move among these people day and night watching them laughing and living their lives. Their goals are simply the same as elsewhere, to provide for their families and create the best environment for the growth and development of their children. I see no real poverty, little crime, clean streets, bad traffic but citizens with respect for each other, both in normal life and in the streets which is anything but normal. For instance it is considered normal to drive on the line committing to neither lane but fading to the one which is most in your favor. It is also considered normal to turn in front of throngs of moving traffic. You simply keep inching your way into the opposing lane until the traffic has to stop! No hot tempers or even discontent. I have not seen an angry driver, but then again I’ve had to close my eyes a few times. Iran is 4 times the size of California with a population of 75,000,000. Tehran has a population of 10 or so million and greater Tehran has a population of 16 to 17 million. We often ask people if we can take their photo, AND people often ask to take our photo. This often turns into a photo shoot, them with us, us with them. They are always surprised to find out that we are Americans, and then bestow the most exuberant handshake (men only) which usually ends with their right hand over their heart–very endearing. Tom Ratterman, American tourist in Iran from Cincinnati, Ohio 5/24/08 E-mail for my entire letter.
I have been here a week now, and the only other Americans that we have run into was a Jewish couple from New York City. He was returning to visit after being gone nearly thirty years. They found everyone welcoming. The Jews who live in this country do so with respect. There are Assyrian Christians, who live in the Northwest. I’m not sure where they reside, however, but there are also Protestants and Armenian Christians. We will see Churches in Esfahan. A small population of Bahai Muslims exist who are the most discriminated against, even hated. There are 7 or 8 Iranian Airlines, more than I expected. There were no shortage of 747’s and many Airbus models at the Mehrabad Airport in Tehran. We met a flight crew at our hotel in Yazd last night who flew in from Medina with an Airbus 300. They had never had an American passenger. There are 2 mountain ranges: the Alborz Mountains to the north of Tehran and the Zagros Mountains which cover much of the country in a Northwest/ Southeast direction. Ibex are plentiful in both ranges, but the interesting thing is there were lions in the wild until just 70 years ago. There are still a few leopards which probably will not escape extinction. You can ski in the Alborz Mtns. Iran exports 150 tons of caviar a year, mostly to Europe. Ali says we can get a single serving in Tehran for $70. “Merci” is the word for “thank you” so the French must have had some influence here. The Dutch were here in the 1600’s brought glass and mirrors and more, and received in return Shiraz wine. The Arabs and the Russians are not liked here, nor the English. Despite the activities of the CIA and the current embargo, people seem to love Americans! So long from Iran, Tom ps Sending this from Shiraz, Iran, 524
“No Urinals in Iran”. What a title for a post. And you did and “extensive search”. Was that the most important thing you were looking for on your “mission” in Tehran? Reading your post, reminds me of “never without my daughter” where the author was concerned above all about the toilets in Mehrabad airport. Reporting objectively, requires some objectivity on the reporter’s side. And as Laex suggested, doing your homework.
Great articles. Very nice idea for a trip and for a blog. When I visited Iran several years ago from Pakistan, I was fully surprised and impressed. The great cities of Isfahan and Shiraz are as pleasant and livable as any I have ever visited. I thought at the time and still believe that unlike the Iraqis, Afghanis and Pakistanis, and Indians who are about as similar to us as night is to day, that the Iranis are like us in very fundamental ways and should be our regional ally.
Hmm, I wish you were still doing Europe, the Asian continent is just not as captivating.
Thank you Rick for the blog. I have been away from Iran for nearly 30 years. It is so disappointing to not be able to travel freely to Iran. When I was in H.S. in Iran, I used to go around and find American tourists and invite them to stay with us so that we could exchange cultures as well as I cound practice my English. Iranians have always had a facination with America and Americans. Hope that the politicians on both sides can someday get along just like us ordinary people, and continue exchanging their rich cultures. It will be wonderful to see these two countires and cultures mingle together again. Just like the old days. Thanks for all the memories.
I am really enjoying learning about Iran and I agree, the more we learn about each others cultures the better off we will be. I have loved your shows for years and have your guidbooks as well. Just so you know- i am a born again Cristian and don’t consider myself, surpising, annoying or menacing and I just don’t understand that comment. Despite that, I do enjoy your blogs-but- I think that was insensitive to your christian fans.
Oh no! You must go out and seek good Persian food. The hotels must not be serving the right stuff. It would be a tragedy for you to not find good meals in Iran. Also, for those saying that they would not travel to such a restrictive country, etc. etc. Some people would not travel to the US due to its aggressive policies (ie Europeans). Barring ourselves from interactions with other people is no way to understand another point of view. Remember… those truly suffering under the harsh Iranian regime is the Iranian people themselves. And to those criticizing so freely, make sure to go and read about the history of the US with Mossadegh and the support of the Shah who himself had many people executed for dissension. Please try and separate people from their government. We must get to know other cultures. We are all people. Do we really need aliens to attack for us to realize that we are ALL human beings… and that there is no greatest nation? Just the beauty of humanity?
ghazal.pie – the only reason Iran doesn’t persecute transsexuals is because Khomeini couldn’t find any line in the Quran that said it was wrong. So he issued a fatwa that gender dysphoria was a legitimate medical condition. But homosexuality is still punishable by death. And since there’s no blood test for gender dysphoria – just the patient’s sincere-sounding claim to have a female self-image – it can seem like an easy way out of a life-threatening dilemma for an effeminate Iranian homosexual. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7259057.stm
This has been fascinating. Thank you so much for writing about what you saw and experienced there. I am looking forward to watching your TV show about Iran. We know so little about the country – to our detriment. What they know about us seems to be even less. What a shame.
But then, why should an evangelical Muslim be any more surprising/menacing/annoying than an evangelical Christian? I agree with Renee that this was very insensitive to Christians. Ours is not a religion that preaches “conversion by the sword”. Ours is not a religion that openly hates an entire group of people (Jews). Ours is not a religion whose majority openly celebrated on 9/11, when thousands of innocents died. Ours is not a religion who calls suicide bombers “martyrs”. We call then killers.
My husband and I value your work Steve, and that of your charming, talented crew. We follow your advice frequently when we travel. Thank you for daring to go to Iran. Your honest and humane reports of what you found in that exotic land are for the most part entertaining and informative. Of course it is unsettling (to say the least) and a concern to me to have you confirm that “Death to America” etc. is rampant and even chanted in schools daily by the young. Nevertheless, I find it encouraging and hopeful that you ask important and nagging questions, inspiring us to attempt a most difficult walk in someone else’s moccasins while never letting us forget you are a loyal and much respected son of the west. i.e. your comment regarding the “Death to Traffic analysis- food for thought, Indeed. You affirm my belief that all people of the globe, despite our cultural and religious differences are more alike than we are different. Clearly you take great delight in the variations as a result, the Iranians you encountered were encouraged by your sincerity and warmth. So much so that one implored you to read his holy book. The other nite, an author , Karen Armstrong was speaking comprehensively on the KORAN. She blew me away with some of her facts about the Incredible Civility of this book we suspect is filled with violence and hate, worth checking out. Looking forward to the program in early 2009. Your travel to Iran couldn’t be more timely. May you continue to be blessed and inspired .. Another fabulous travelogue.. Thanks. E
Your blog about Iran is great and after reading all your posts I was reading the posts on travelblog.com from Iran and noticed a picture and comments about a urinal there. http://www.travelblog.org/Middle-East/Iran/West/Esfahan/blog-39203.html A urinal with a shower type accessory!
salam, at first I like to say welcome to our country and then it is more interesting for me to read comments , and know about how people think about my country . Iran is a very very beautiful place full of peace and peaceful people. we will be glad to see all people from all over the world in our country. have a nice time
Dear Steve, For some who have misconceptions about Iran. First of all Iranians are not Arabs, and therefore have no quarrel with Jews or Israel. Iranians themselves are Shia, a religious minority in the Middle East, who like Jews, were always hated and persecuted in Arab countries. Iranians have their share of problems with Arabs and are historical enemies (Arabs invaded Persia 1400 years ago in the most brutal fashion). Iranians have always seen themselves natural allies and friends of Jews. Just because the late Khomeini chose to pick bones with Israel, which before 1979 was Iran’s best friend in the region, does not make the general populace in Iran anti-Semitic nor anti-Israel. That is the government’s attitude, not the Iranian peoples’. Arabs claim Iranian territory, Israelis do not. Arabs started and fought a brutal 8 year war with Iran. Israelis did not. Persian-Jewish friendship dates back to the days of Cyrus the Great who liberated Jews from Babylonian captivity and allowed them to rebuild their Temple in Jerusalem. Iranians love America, and young Iranians are enamoured of American pop culture, and they communicate (via the internet) on a daily basis with American internet chat buddies and American online penpals, asking them questions about their favorite American actors or actresses, and their favorite American pop stars and rock bands. Young Iranians are very curiuos about America, and when I, a second generation Iranian American, travel back to the old country, my Iranian friends and relatives all express their desire to visit America. Iran was the ONLY country in the Middle East where young people took to the streets and held a candle-light vigil for 9/11 victims, sympathizing with the American people (incidentally not one of the terrorists were either Iranian or Shia Muslims for that matter). Young Iranians love American values: democracy, popular vote, freedom, and progress which has inspired them to push for reform and change. Hurrah!