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| For many Iranians what Americans would call “family values” trumps democracy and freedom. They choose a “Revolution of Values.” Enlarge photo |
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| Imagine a society where all the women are nuns…and all the problems like Maria. Enlarge photo |
As I settled into the plane flying us between two Iranian towns, the pilot announced, “In the name of God the compassionate and merciful, we welcome you to this flight. Now fasten your seatbelts.”
The Islamic Revolution is a “revolution of values.” People here tell me they support it because they want to raise their children without cheap sex, disrespectful clothing, drug abuse and materialism, believing it erodes character and threatens their traditional values. To conservative Iranians, America stands for all of the above. The people I’ve met here don’t want their culture to be like America’s. It threatens them as parents. It seems to me they willingly trade democracy and political freedom for a society free of Western values (or lack thereof), that it’s more important to have a place to raise their children that fits their religious values. I believe they would even endure a shock-and-awe–style American bombing for this — something tough for our leaders to get their heads around.
(Of course, there’s plenty of drug addiction, materialism and casual sex in Iran, but the sex and drugs are pretty well hidden, and the forces in power are fighting these vices the best they can.)
Sometimes you don’t see an excess in your own world until you find a different world without that excess. Traveling in Iran, it’s clear to me that in the US, our religion is freedom…and materialism. Just about everywhere we look, we are inundated by advertising encouraging us to consume. Airports are paid to drone ads on loud TVs. Magazines are beefy with slick ads. Sports stars wear corporate logos. Our media are driven by corporate marketing. In Iran the religion is Islam. And — at the expense of the economy — billboards, Muzak, TV programming, and young peoples’ education preaches the teaching of great Shiite holy men.
Still, I am impressed by how unreligious this famously religious place is. Unlike other Muslim cities I’ve visited, such as Istanbul and Cairo, there are almost no minarets breaking the skyline, and there’s no call to prayer. I’ve barely heard a call to prayer since we arrived.
In this theocracy, the women must stay covered. Trying to grasp this in Christian terms, I imagined living in a society where every woman is forced to be a nun. Seeing spunky young Muslim women chafing at their modesty requirements, I kept humming, “How do you solve a problem like Maria?” Pondering the time Pat Robertson ran for president — and had millions of supporters — I wondered what our own country would look like if he had won and dominated Congress. Many people would have been ecstatic, and many would have been oppressed. It seems to me that’s the state of Iran today under Ahmadinejad.
I asked my guide if, in Iran, you must be religious. He said, “In Iran you can be whatever religion you like, as long as it is not offensive to Islam.” Christian? “Sure.” Jewish? “Sure.” Bahá’i? “No, we believe Mohammad — who came in the seventh century — was the last prophet, and the Bahá’i prophet (Bahá’u’lláh) came in the 19th century. The Bahá’i faith is offensive to Islam. Except for that, we have religious freedom.”
I asked, “But what if you want to get somewhere in the military or government?” My guide answered, “Then you better be a Muslim.” I added, “A practicing Shiite Muslim?” He said, “Yes.”
Thanks, Rick, for opening a window onto a world that most Americans would never see otherwise. The more that people are exposed to other cultures, even via blogs, the more chance we have for understanding other regions of the world.
I just returned from Iran after 42 years, where I had served as a Peace Corps Volunteer. Before I left the US, many of my friends were worried about my safety traveling there.I’m delighted Rick is spreading the word that Iran is a very different place than the US, but not an unfriendly nor unsafe place. Fewer than 3000 Americans visited Iran last year. Let’s hope publicity from Steve’s trip can let Americans see it’s a fabulous place for tourism. Also traveling there can be an important step towards world peace. It’s hard to bomb people you have visited with.
Sometimes you don’t see an excess in your own world until you find a different world without that excess. I learned this lesson from, of all places, the Armed Forces Network in Europe. I did not see a single commercial announcement for 8 months while in Kosovo (AFN shows US TV, but places public service announcements and brief historty/cultural lessons in the time slots that commercials would normally fill). When I returned home, suddenly commercials seemed loud, crass, and ultimately, a way to tempt me to buy what I did not need.
Thanks, Rick, for another look into Iran and it’s people. Happy travels!
You’re so right about commericalism and consumerism in the US. Recently, I’ve started to mute all commercials between television shows. It’s odd to see the visuals without the audio – you really get a sense of how we’re constantly being enticed to buy things that we don’t need. I really enjoy when Iranians open up to you and are candid about their culture and society. Thanks for sharing and continued safe travels!
Rick – Okay, educate me: What’s the reference to Maria all about? LOL
To Joseph — Go watch the Sound of Music. To Rick — awesome blog, can’t wait to see the show. Thanks!
Rick, Thank you for your blog. I truly believe that the only way to decrease the tension between the US and Iran is through education, and your trip will help educate people from both countries. Stay Safe.
Rick I wonder if this experience will change your mind about some of the subjects that you have been passionate about in the past? Hope you are really enjoying your time in Iran, I have enjoyed reading your blog! Judy
Your guidebook on Italy was our bible while we were there. I’m expecting your show on Iran to be just as topnotch. Do the Iranians know that not all Americans share our governments view of the world? Do they know that some parents here also screen their childrens’ internet use and tv programs? If you do have any good meals please get the recipes! Be careful! And have fun!
Dear Rick, Thank you so much for your blog. I have passed a link to it to many friends, including some who support the latetst saber rattling. One can only hope your blog might somehow make a difference.
Rick, I wish you good travels in an amazing country filled with wonderfully generous, compassionate people. You say you haven’t had a “good” meal yet then PLEASE do yourself a favor and accept an invitation into the home of a local. There is much more than kebab khoobideh (ground beef kebab) and rice. If you have the opportunity to have fesenjun (pomegranate and walnut chicken) or shirin polo (a sweet rice with candied orange peel, carrots, pistachios, barberries, and chicken. YUM! If you can get past the look (it’s green) then ghormeh sabzi (herb and beef stew you eat over rice) is absolutely delicious. Don’t forget to try the tadik which is the crunchy rice at the bottom of the pan. It’s quite the delicacy. It’s especially good with embedded potatoes. Iranians love to entertain and I promise you won’t have been treated to a better meal anywhere you have been or will go. Give it a try :-)
Dear Rick, I’ve enjoyed reading your blog on Iran and have learned a lot. However, I am concerned about some things you’ve reported. It seems as if the people there only hate the US but you haven’t mentioned their views on Europeans-a place near and dear to your heart. It seems Europeans have just as much “cheap sex, disrespectful clothing, drug abuse and materialism” as Americans. Prostitution is legal in many places in Europe, drugs are tollerated in many areas,as is nude sunbathing and commercialism is every bad as it is in the US. Can’t imagine that would jive with conservative Islam? So unless they feel the same towards Europeans as they do Americans, it would follow that they hate us for entirely different reasons than you stated. What they are I’d love to know. As a side note, I hate our excess, materialism and commercialism too, but I’d rather have the freedom to live as I’d like than the alternative. I love that I can raise my daughter in a country where she can literally grow up and become anything she wants. I’ll take that over a well-behaved ‘nun’ any day of the week.
JSG: The people there don’t “hate the US” — they (and much of the rest of the world) just don’t want US values and culture forced onto them. The Europeans don’t go around proclaiming “WE’RE NUMBER ONE” and threatening to bomb other nations into submission.
Conservative religious women may dress like nuns (as in the photo) but they’re hardly like nuns in other ways. Literacy rates among poorer woman has exploded, more than 60 of the university population is female, they work as doctors, lawyers, engineers, stock brokers and members of parliament. In short, don’t understimate Iranian women.
Hi Rick, So Glad your are doing this, kudos to you!!! Make sure you talk to women entrepreneur in Iran, there are so many of them, like the one who started a women cab company in Tehran. Also try to go to an Iranian psrty inside an Iraniam house WITHOUT your government minder!!!!!!! it is adiffernert world. Also didn’t you think the stewardist look qute and airplane service was superb, it was when we visited 4 yeras ago.
“In Iran you can be whatever religion you like, as long as it is not offensive to Islam.†Christian? “Sure.†Jewish? “Sure.†Bahá’i? “No, we believe Mohammad — who came in the seventh century — was the last prophet, and the Bahá’i prophet (Bahá’u’lláh) came in the 19th century. The Bahá’i faith is offensive to Islam. Except for that, we have religious freedom.†So using that theory then Islam is offensive to Christiantity and Judiasm since Christ either being the son of God or prophet came before Muhammad. So reversing the timeline we should say the US or Europe being of a Christian background should not accept muslims and Islam? Boy how would that play on the international arena??? I am a Roman Catholic and for you to compare Muslim women to Nuns is offensive to me as nuns give their life to god, take a vow of chastity and take a vow of poverty. As much as you preach the Muslim love,if I believed in reincarnation I swear you were a Muslim in your past life. You despise Catholics yet preach such tolerance of Islam and Muslims, go figure. anyway, I got off track good post. And I have the same question as the people above do they just hate US materialism or European as well because they sure must be haten the EU right now as well as they are doing. How about some fair and balanced reporting on that issue. Where do more Iranians emigrate the uS or europe?
Your travel to Iran is exactly what is needed (at your expense, amazing)…and I hope your blog is being read by politicians, congress people, and wanna be American leaders. Plus how can we make sure all those folks see the travel film once it’s out?? What date would that be? Thank you for your steady approach to global affairs. How about running for office!?
To Daniel: you missed the point. Iran has a memorial to the prophet Daniel, who was imprisioned under Babylon, was freed by the Persians (Iranians – Cyrus the Great) who returned Israelites to their homeland with funds to rebuild their Temple. I appreciate your passion, but you could do better in your understanding of history and your own faith.
Muslim people are right to criticize our culture as being a hard one for parents. One only has to look at the two most famous women in America that catch young girl’s admiration and attention: Brittney Spears and Paris Hilton. Both young ladies represent an excess of everything. Our society would be better if we listened to Muslim criticism of materialism and crassness because they are right. Yet, I still wouldn’t want to live in a society like today’s Iran. It seems everyone is measured by how closely they live the Shiite Muslim ideal rather than getting to create one’s own ideal. Yikes.
Too bad our nuns/sisters here in the United States don’t wear religious habits anymore to remind the rest of us of poverty (freedom from materialism) and chastity! Also –to correct a possibly misleading post– Roman Catholic nuns/sisters are doctors, lawyers, teachers, social workers, nurses, administrators and so on as well as cloistered contemplatives.
Hey man I really don’t know how your guide has been assigned ! Does the government obliged you to use their specified guide ?? I guess the guy is totally miss leaded you to wrong facts about our people , what does it mean when you say People here tell me they support it because they want to raise their children without cheap sex, disrespectful clothing…. ? This revolution caused many many unforgivable and unrecoverable damages to our culture, economy, international reputation, freedom, people beliefs and many other aspect. Actually it was a catastrophe to this nation which nowadays people’s dissatisfaction is rising dramatically! I don’t like your title for this post ! here we have many beautiful girls not covered up like nuns ! why your guide didn’t bring you somewhere you can see them ? I suggest, pay a visit to some of our well known shopping malls in Tehran [ TANDIS ( Tajrish Sq.) or Golestan (Shahrak Gharb) ] even your guide would not liked the idea ! and see our real life side ! Although extremists here has been forcing and inspiring other people to follow their own beliefs since 1979, the minor governing party-consisting those extremists, has never achieved this ! Last word… leave that tour guide ! here there are many great touring and traveling agencies which you can find a fine tour guide ! not inspiring you that the minority beliefs can be generalized to the majority ! Good good luck on the rest of your trip !
Fascinating trip. I hope to make it myself one day. I really appreciate Rick’s insights and love all his books and travel products. My family and I are leaving for Ireland Friday with Rick book in our hands and his Civita day packs by our side. As far as his Iran experience, however, I do wonder, how aware Rick is that he’s being cleverly manipulated (the last post by an Iranian implied this) by his handlers. Iran almost sounds like the workers paradise that was the old Soviet Union. And, I have to admit I giggled at his comparison of Pat Roberson and the Ahmadinejah. I’m definitely not a Pat Roberson fan either, but does Rick really believe that a Pat Roberson presidency(I, too, shudder at the thought) would result in America becoming the same kind of tyranical closed state that is Iran? Of course, I’m sure Oliver Stone and Michael Moore would certainly concur with his assessment.
Dear Rick – another very interesting blog! Thanks. However, I, like Joseph, am confused by the “How do you solve a problem like Maria?” line. Although I have watched “The Sound of Music” (quite a few years ago),guess I need to watch it again, as Lynn suggested, unless someone out there can suggest a less time- consuming means for comprehending the meaning behind the Maria sentence. Must be important to the story as you wouldn’t have mentioned it otherwise. Are Joseph and I the only folks out of the loop? Looking forward to tomorrow’s report.
Is this trip destined to become the “most commented” upon blog ever? Talk about stirring up the juices. I was pleased to see the barest of smirks curling up around the lips of one of the Iman’s in the poster. This was a definite thawing from the scowls we normally see. I vote for enforced Peace Corp service for two years as an alternate to military service. Lets get the kids out into the countries of this world to live among the people. As one poster said, It is hard to bomb people you know (and have lived with, eating their food and sharing their homes).
“All women being like nuns in Iranâ€. What an uninformed and simplistic observation on your part. However, I am not surprised by the culturally ignorance and stereotyping writing about of Iran. It seems, I am reading the daily news stories out of Iran, axis of evil, nuclear development, and religious fanaticism.
Imagine two proposals by two people. In one proposal, the individual guarantees that if he is allowed to rule there will be no sin, that everyone will obey all laws or die, that none shall be lost. How will this be accomplished? Well it is easy to see this philosophy in action in Iraq… by removing freedoms, forcing compliance, and rejecting or destroying all thoughts, ideas, or actions that are inconsistent with the “ideal”. In the second proposal, the individual says that some will be lost, but all will know the difference between right and wrong, freedom of choice will be preserved. He says that those who make it through this mortal trial will be very strong, they will be tell what is right and what is wrong, and hope will be preserved. Children learn by their mistakes. Some get hurt and some make bad choices. However, swaddling children and surrounding them with a bubble, forcing them to view only the right choice and never the wrong choice, keeping them under lock and key and protecting them from every possible thing that could hurt them in any way does not raise a child that is capable of leading, fending for him/herself, or creating an even stronger posterity. Given the two choices of society, one where all unrighteous choices are removed, where someone “supposedly” interested in “protecting” us is given authority to control what we see, hear, and do, I would still choose to take the risk of making incorrect choices. Of being hurt. Of failing. Of learning, and growing, and creating something greater than myself through the process. I appreciate your comments as you visit the people. I believe there is great good in all people. Focusing on these individuals is wonderful. I just have problems with your support of this authoritarian, controlling,and protective society. It does not reflect the depth of thought I have associated with Rick Steves
Joseph, Lynn and Zoe: in The Sound of Music, in the beginning, Maria is a nun. But she is becomming aware that this kind of life is not for her and she feels a call or attraction to something else. Not drugs or sex or nudity or commercialism, but just something else. And she is free to pursue other options and she does; we take it for granted, but in other cultures … I wonder. If you like movies as ways to gain varieties of insights, try “Not Without My Daughter.” No single movie is definitive, any more than one trip by Rick; but a more open society allows us to take it all in and process it; and it all enriches our lives. Thanks, Rick! Stay safe.
Ok now we are back to the same old same old why Rick hates America type blog that usually makes the numbers of bloggers jump and into arguing. Notice the numbers that are reading and blogging are falling more every day. Looks like people have lost interest in his now defense of his new darling The Fundamentalist Government of Iran
Having lived almost all my life in Tehran, I wonder whether you’ve visited a different Tehran. Tehran is a highly diverse city. Actually, what led me (after so many years in engineering) to switch to graduate study of sociology was the diversity of life and lifestyles in Tehran. Your depictions of Tehran toggle from highly religious people “Imagine Every Woman’s a Nun” to a highly unreligious place “I’ve barely heard a call to prayer since we arrived”. From one stereotype to another. I wonder what kind of observation you’re making down there. Probably, your hotel room is not near any mosque. In Tehran, mosques virtually compete with each other to make their “call for prayer” louder than the ones nearby. In the meantime, if you spend some time actually talking with those “nuns” (instead of merely shooting a photo-op with them), you’ll be surprised to discover about the diversity of their beliefs and views on Islam. The same if you talk to people whose appearance wouldn’t look like a “nun” (and presumably should be non-religious according to your stereotyping). There’s no sursprise why westerners don’t have a true picture of Iran as it is. When I arrived in the US, talking matter of factly about my church visits in Iran (and making comparisons with my church visits in the US), sometimes people would ask me “Do you really have churches in Iran”?
Great Job Rick. Keep up the good work. This is exactly what the America needs in this day and age. I hope everyone gets an opportunity to read your blogs.
Hi Rick, I would like to help you be the “Peace Ambassador†that you can be, and suggest a couple of ideas that your government minder might not know about: In Isfahan: Please make sure to see the Armenian Church that has a memorial to the Armenian Holocaust. The Tea house under “Zayandeh Rood†Make sure to stay at “Hotel Abasi†and eat their “Ash†and enjoy a great “Breakfast Buffet†In Shiraz: Please get an educated tour guide for Persepolis who is not afraid of mentioning the positive things about our Persian (non-Islamic) ancestry, e.g. the many nations that were under Cyrus and enjoyed freedom of religion, no matter what their religion was. The fact that during Akamadian (2,700 years ago) laborers were paid for their work and there was no slavery… there are evidence of these in Persepolis museum. In Tehran: See the other side of Iranian women (doctors, lawyers, proffesors and CEOs). Try to contact “Banovan Taxi Services Or Aria†has a woman founder and CEO, and all women taxi drivers. Can contact them by calling 133. Mayor of 9th district in Tehran is a woman. Go Hiking in “Darakeh†north of Tehran. Try either Thursday or Friday. And see all the young men & women hikers. Visit the “Milad†shopping Mall in west of Tehran and see Milad Tower and Hospital. Name of some good restaurant in Tehran: Koohsar in Darband (north of Tehran) Ali Ghapoo in Gandi street. Rafabes in Vozara Square. “Ordake Abi†or “Blue Duck†in Tandis area. Monson in Gandi street. Have fun and looking forward to your show.
Just heard about this trip in Seattle Times. Good for you for making this trip. Perhaps those of us would prefer to get along with the world’s citizens rather than dominate them can start making a dent in the general ignorance about Iran and the Middle East in general through undertakings such as yours. I hope to some day go back- this is where I , an East Coast girl, met and married my husband, a Seattle native, and I have so many wonderful memories. As for food- do not miss the sturgeon (fantastic) and waiting in line for babari bread (a treat not to be missed) is a great experience and a chance to meet everyday folks living ordinary lives (you can skip the carrot jam, however, in my opinion). Leave behind all your belongings when you fly home and pack your suitcase with pistachios- you will never taste any as good in the Seattle area. Please have a talk, Q&A when you get back home. I am dying to hear your impressions and experiences.
Always enjoy your travel shows, grieved you have recently chosen to make them a platform for your politics. You are bright enough to recognize the classical liberal schizophrenia presented here. In one paragraph lamenting the drugs, sex and materialism in the U.S., then attacking a social conservative like Pat Robertson who dares to define biblical truth as preferable to social liberalism. Many liberals consider those in prison who are duly convicted for their crimes to be “oppressed.” Historically, freedom without responsibility results in anarchy. Truth by definition excludes error. So who can define what is right and wrong? Ahmadinajad? Bush? Robertson? or Steves? Obviously there has to be a supracultural standard of right and wrong. The Biblical definition of right and wrong always trumps human opinion (and the contemporary politically liberal social platform). Biblical truth trumps Islamic truth because of the divine verification of the resurrection of Jesus. Pls apply your back door philosophy to understanding conservative politics as well. :) God bless
Please eat some Iranian pastries — particularly the cream-filled puff pastrie and napoleons — on my behalf!
Warren: “Not without my daughter” movie was a sham and a lie. If anyone thinks they’re getting any insight on Iran through such an obvious hatchet-job, they should not bother reading blogs like this.
As an American women who has visited Iran many times and is going again in a few weeks I am happy to see the attention Rick’s trip is getting. Never have I or my daughters been treated with anything but respect by the people of Iran. All the rhetoric one hears is between the governments and not the people. The people love visitors. Iranian hospitality is among the best I have ever encountered. As far as the dress code goes it can get a little annoying having to follow it but it shows respect to the culture you are visiting. In private you are free to dress as you please. I once had a discussion with my sister-in-law about how restrictive I viewed it. She argued back that she considered the traditional Iranian way of dressing liberating – it removed sexuality from everyday situations and made men and women more equal in public. Just another way of looking at it I guess.
Rick — I have been to many developing countries but Iran is unique because in Iran you won’t see children sniffing glue or sleeping in the streets as in Brazil or Mexico, you won’t see slums, you won’t see people picking their living in heaps of trash, you won’t see many of the ills that are common worldwide. That’s because Iranians have a very strong sense of family and respect for their elders as well as their nation and religion. They sincerely honor guests and actually like American despite what our regime has done to them and their country (armed Saddam.) We can all learn from each other. They still have a deep sense of respect for values we have forgotten.
People here tell me they support it because they want to raise their children without cheap sex, disrespectful clothing, drug abuse and materialism, believing it erodes character and threatens their traditional values. A fascinating post. This actually gave me even more clarity for my own life. As an American, I absolutely believe in our freedoms and for people to choose how they want to live. As a first time father (in 3 weeks), I completely and totally agree with the conservative Iranians on this. In my values, writings, and conversations with others, I have talked about these EXACT same issues and how I am against these things. And I don’t have a problem with those who want to live that way. However, when it comes to our kids, we don’t want others who live that way to have such influence on the values we impart to our kids. Materialism, cheap sex, lack of traditional values run rampant in our country and has such a huge influence on younger generations. And that is where my struggle comes. I can make my own choices and stand against the things I see in this country that I don’t like. But I can’t do that for a child. And as a parent, I am against those same things. Rick, thanks for sharing this. For me personally, this bridges a gap between myself and Iranians to show that we aren’t as different as we think. And rather than just disagree with their faith and the oppression that we see, it helps me understand where they are coming from. And for that, I am can find some common ground.
Thanks, Rick. One question — Can you explain why there is English writing on some of the signs you’ve depicted? Safe travels!
I find the comments are generally from those who view America’s culture as evil to those who see our culture as one in which there is good and bad. I have not heard Rick Steve’s negative comments abour Iran yet. He is quick to criticize our government and way of life , but slow to criticize other countries.
You don’t have to go to Iran to escape advertising. In many European countries, it is ILLEGAL to direct advertising to children. Not in the US of A. Lets face it: We use women’s bodies to sell cars and power tools. Consumerism is our religion, movie stars our saints, and we’re free to choose between competing brand names.
There’s English street signs all over Iran. People watch satellite tv, access the internet, and have to take some English in high school. Some speak it surprisingly well having never left the country.
Thank you Rick, I think it’s a wonderful blog. Here are some more pictures of beautiful Iran and its music: http://storagesanity.blogspot.com/
Hmm.. sorry, posted wrong link: http://youtube.com/watch?v=y9oIZpFFyIY
As a Baha’i that is half Iranian and half American this is very interesting to me. There are thousands of half Persian half American Bahais living in the US and all over now. As I was born outside of Iran, and was never allowed to even visit the country of my mother’s birth. Thank you for giving a brief glimse of the immediate prejudice against Baha’is in Iran. Also hopefully you will soon notice that Baha’is are now spread worldwide and we teach equality of men and women and the promise of world peace. Unfortunately, Baha’is in Iran are the oppressed minority, and they cannot work, cannot go to school, and cannot have equal rights to basic needs such as healthcare or justice in the law among many things…
Rick, Why must you continually distort conservatism in the U.S.? To infer that had Pat Robertson won the Presidency that the U.S. would look like Iran is simply absurd. Are you so fanatical about liberalism that you don’t understand that the checks and balances in our government keep us from radical swings to either the left or the right? You’re a fabulous travel writer, but the liberal propaganda you continually spew makes me seriously question your ability to be objective.
If I may, I’d like to offer some ideas to Arielle as to why there’s English on many signs: 1. English is “cool”. English brings an air of hipness and modernity that the marketing department (in this case the government) wants to be associated with. The words themselves are irrelevant. Sample T-shirt seen in Iran (on a 20ish guy): “Fresh. Active. And enjoy the life.” 2. English is International. Iranians are under all kinds of sanctions and they feel isolated from the world. English (potentially) communicates to everyone from Albanians to Zulus. Just having a political message in English makes the government and their supporters feel like they’re “communicating to the world”. Of course many Iranians find the official messages an embarassment. 3. English is required! From 6th grade on, Iranians have to take English. So literate Iranians (a majority of the population, and almost all the youth) will know some English.
Thanks Rick, my wife and I have used your guides on trips to Europe with great relish, I hope a guide to Iran is forthcoming. I was born and raised in the UK and have now spent the last thirty years, plus, in the US (half my life) and I really appreciate people like you bringing a look (through the back door) of other cultures. I have been fortunate to travel to many countries outside of Europe and find that most people are trying to provide for their families and live a decent life, just like us. Keep up the good work! I look forward to the rest of your reports and the film.
Sometimes you don’t see an excess in your own world until you find a different world without that excess. Traveling in Iran, it’s clear to me that in the US, our religion is freedom…and materialism. Just about everywhere we look, we are inundated by advertising encouraging us to consume. Airports are paid to drone ads on loud TVs. Magazines are beefy with slick ads. Sports stars wear corporate logos. Our media are driven by corporate marketing. I don’t have any doubt that, for many in the U.S., materialism is a religion. Helping us practice our religion of materialism is Rick Steves, who tries to entice us into buying his books, bags, tours, etc. Welcome to the reality of capitalism, Rick. All supplied by this place that’s so horrible, the United States of America.
Mike (May 25, 2008 9:23 AM), regarding a [hypothetical] President Pat Roberston: Rick correctly wrote that some Americans would be elated while others would be mortified and come to feel persecuted. I see little to argue there and little in the way of “liberal propaganda.” The takeaway is that America’s forefathers demonstrated profound wisdom when they established the separation of church and state, lest a country fall down the tragic path of theocracy that Iran has. There are many in America, many in political power, who very deeply desire a Christian theocracy. In the name of American democracy and in the name of our forefathers, here’s hoping that does not happen. [Irony noe: The CAPCHA image word I had to type in to post this message was: OPPRESSING.]
Blah, after reading Mike’s message I now see John’s message. Why so touchy?
Dear Rick, For years, I’ve known you’re the best travel guide ever. But having just read Danny Westneat’s article about why you’re in Iran (here: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/dannywestneat/2004437575_danny25.html), I now realize you’re also an inspiring everyday hero. What you are trying to do takes insight, personal integrity, courage, selflessness — in fact, every virtue to which humanity has always aspired. You can’t imagine how much I admire you! Thank you, from the bottom of my heart. Kat Denver
Hey Simon, this is John Walton in Seattle. We briefly spoke on the phone before you and Steve left for the IRI trip. I believe you and Steve will find Esfahan fantastic if you have the time to really look it over. Be sure to check out Chelstoon, or Forty Pillars, and take your tour group to Bazaar Imam which is also fantastic, fun, and full of great trinket buying opportunities. Be sure to bargain, it is all negotiable! It in my mind is really like an Islamic Paris on the Zianderud (river). My wife and I just spent Norouz (New Year Festival) there. We had such fun! Yes, Abbasi Hotel is beautiful, enjoy the gardens especially. Also, I highly recommend to take the group to Kosar Hotel for the buffet, in case your group gets a little tired of Kabob and Kobideh in multiple variations. Also, you may take the group to Sharzad Hotel because it is especially beautiful for a lunch. I am biased on Esfahan as a base to explore Iran for many reasons. Please get back to me on your return, I can be helpful. Very Best Regards
Here is a funny short video from Iran: this is funny! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l60bW7lhRNc Sholeh
Thank you Rick . As an Iranian I like Americans .Most of us do. The problem seems to be between the 2 governments. We nations are friends. And your trip will help your people to know that we are not enemies or terrorists. I hope you enjoy your stay in Iran.
Steve, I’m glad I found this website and your adventure. This really makes me want to get invited to visit Teheran. I’m sure the food is very delicious!
Mikey, My point is that the structure of checks and balances in our government ‘prevents’ something like a theocracy from taking hold. A leaders religious views simply have very little effect if any on our society as a whole, and in nearly every administration, a President doesn’t ‘dominate’ Congress as Rick implies. His implication that a Robertson type would be dangerous is simply left wing garbage; but he would have no problem with a guy like Obama, who we know has spent 20 years listening to a radical loon and associating with other militant’s.
Rick, Thank you for mentioning the Baha’is. It was courageous of you. For folks who want to know who the Baha’is are, go to http://www.bahai.org. I am an American Baha’i that lives in the US. I know many Iranian Baha’is that live here now. Their values are admirable. Foremost is their relationship with God. These Baha’is, when faced with denial of rights, dispossession of the their property, desecration of their holy sites and cemetaries, abuse by their countrymen, incarceration and in some cases execution during the height of the Iranian Revolution, have a developed deep appreciate of their relationship with God because of what they have endured for their Faith. All that any Baha’i in Iran has to do to end his or her own suffering is to recant their Baha’i Faith, yet they do not. The accounts I have heard about the abuses and injustices make me weep, yet these Bahai’s are happy to offer up their material comfort and risk their lives to be Baha’i. If you are a Christian, imagine what it would have been like to have lived a hundred or so years after Christ lived. Christians were martyred mercilessly and regarded as crazy and a threat. Would you have been happy to offer up your life? Now Christianity is widely accepted. Muslims were once regarded as heathens and persecuted and killed, many followed the Prophet Mohammed knowing it would result in their death and now Islam is a recognized independent religion and acknowledged as the greatest civilizing force in Arab history. If the Baha’i Faith is true and Baha’u’llah is a Messenger of God, just as Christ and Mohammed are, no amount of opposition will destroy it. The individual should have the right to investigate and decide if any religion is true. Iranian Baha’is have the freedom to choose to be Baha’is, but they may have to choose their Faith over their own life. Are they crazy? Are they Godly? You decide. -Respectfully submitted, Jeanine in Chicago
Bahais are the Scientologists of Iran, and frankly most Iranians resented their excessive power and influence during the Shah’s time, and their current efforts to interject their own political agenda in discussions about Iran.
Hi Rick – God bless you and your family for taking on such important task. There is so much talk about our differences and not enough discussions about how much we humans have in common. Your effort is a contribution to humanity and history. I hope PBS will do enough advertising about your program to provide you with a deserved number audiences.
Rick, you’ve never steered me wrong in your travel books. I hope you can rush one on Iran into print as soon as you return. In fact, I’d love to see one on the entire Middle East. The more we can pull the fantasy fangs from the fantasy ogre, the less likely it is to haunt our fevered dreams. Please tell your new Iranian friends that some of your readers, including myself, look forward to the opportunity to meet them and learn from them.
your caption for the “death to america” mural flag contradicts the picture itself: those are not David stars buddy. they are skulls.
I’ve been to Iran as well, a few years ago with a friend. Taking the word of a taxi-driver in any country (or anyone who isn’t an expert) is a bad idea. Whilst the government in Iran is overwhelmingly Muslim, there are other minority groups represented. There is a Jewish member of parliament, and I believe there are advisers from each registered minority religion in government advising on religious/political matters. In an almost homogenized country run by a Muslim theocracy that is fairly forward thinking, in my opinion. In any event, enjoy your stay.
OMG Sean you are right I pumped it up 200 per cent and the stars are skulls along with the bomb as stripes
In Benazir Bhutto’s book “Reconciliation”, page 61, she explains why no minarets and noisy call to prayer. It seems Muslims are making use of today’s technology through other means to call their communities to prayer, namely the radio.
Sigh, CJ and other right-wingers are predictably going on and on about Rick “hating America” and “loving Iran.” Anyone who has traveled a lot knows that ALL countries have good points and bad points. (Well, maybe not North Korea, but all the others I can think of.) To say “Here is something that America falls short on” is not “hating America.” It’s just being realistic. No person is perfect, and being made up of flawed human beings, no country is perfect, either. Similarly, to say, “Here is something Iran does well” is not “loving the Iranian government–it’s knowing a good idea when you see it. I would say especially to the Christians who comment on this blog that if you are enraged at any criticism of America or the Bush administration, then you are guilty of idolatry, because only God is perfect and above criticism. BTW, note that Rick does say some negative things about Iran.
I am not a right wing nut, evangelical Christian, or knee-jerk liberal. The most disturbing thing about Rick’s trip and the comments posted is the lack of concern about Iran’s single-minded and zealous pursuit of nuclear weapons capability. Discussion of women’s scarves, Western materialism, and the “well, nobody’s perfect” attitude will go by the wayside sometime between 2020 and 2030 given their rate of progress. Iran will not view the possession of nuclear weapons as a defensive move. I’m not a fearmonger, but about the time your children are raising their kids, a radical theocracy will have the means to attack a country they maintain should be eliminated. Given Israel’s history, they will move to preempt this action. It’s hard to believe the world community will let things go so far, but the lack of spine in choking the Mullahs’ ambitions doesn’t give much confidence that things will change.
I was 11 in 1958 when my father accepted a position as general manager of an American consulting firm and we moved to Ahwaz, Iran where he oversaw the construction of a power dam on the Dez River, installed the first power lines between Abadan and Ahwaz, planted sugar cane and other experimental crops, and provided other economic development services for the Shah. We returned to the states two years later but the experience shaped many of my life choices and points-of-view. It also engendered in me a love of the Iranian people and their culture. I returned to Iran in 2003 with a small group from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s Ancient Arts Council. We were warmly welcomed by everyone we met but told that it might be best to say we were Canadian at times. But I responded when asked that I was from America, had lived in Iran many years before, and was then living in Los Angeles. Everyone wanted to try out their English while I tried out my rusty Farsi, and many told me of friends and relatives living in LA. It was a wonderful “homecoming”; I look forward to going back again in the very near future and am enjoying hearing about your experiences. But I must disagree with you, Rick, about the cuisine. Persian food is among the best in the world. There are many excellent restaurants and small grocery stores in the Westwood section of Los Angeles that you must try. I’m now living in Seattle but Jordan’s on Westwood Blvd is where I head to stock up on my favorite sweets, spices and pistachios. (Nothing compares to Iranian pistachios, however!) Thank you for traveling to Iran, Rick. Thank you for telling others about this beautiful country.
Frankly, people from countries that have nuclear weapons are in no position to complain about other countries seeking nuclear weapons “capability” whatever that means.
If THIS really is Tehran, then someone has been lying to me: http://www.tehran24.com/
Rick Good on ya old buddy. Like you, I always believed “World Travel is the way to World Peace” and your present endeavor is a big step in that direction. And it should be safe enough, If you remember I got shot in the back on University Ave and 47th while you were out traveling the world. I also had a good time traveling, 15 years,3 times round the world, some 90 plus countries, made a lot of good friends. Looking foward to your safe return and a great story on the people of Iran. Lenny W (retired traveler)
Great posts and great comments. I salute Rick’s initiative to raise awareness about Iran. What would it take to get to peace? Unfortunately it would take progress on half a dozen complex issues. Iran could unambiguously sign on to the additional protocols of the nonproliferation treaty: they’d get help with civilian power, everyone else would get verification of a non-military program. Trust could begin to get rebuilt. Direct Iranian/US talks on Iraq would help. We are a thorn in each others sides in Iraq and (contrary to sound bites, right and left) there are no easy solutions. Also on the wish list is a “hands off” agreement about Lebanon: No U.S. interference. No Iranian interference. (Insert cynical comment here.) As if those aren’t enough: An Israeli/Palestinian peace deal would help. Quite a list! Blessed are the peacemakers. Although Rick might be jousting at windmills on this mission, what is his alternative? Everyone needs to follow their conscience, educate themselves on the issues, avoid selfjustifying bias, and try to make the impossible possible. Otherwise, we’re just taking up space. Good luck, Rick.
I wonder if it has occurred to anyone else posting here that Rick may need to be very careful in what he chooses to write about while he is in Iran to avoid getting quickly hustled out of the country and thereby miss something of note? As for nuclear proliferation, what does that have to do with making obvservations about everyday life as he is seeing it (or being allowed to see it)? I swear people want things both ways–no politics in his blogs or full of politics. In either case, only if said politics agree with those of the poster. Rick, keep posting. Hopefully you will get the opportunity to experience some of the things other visitors to the country have mentioned (such as dinner in a private home). I for one am enjoying this.
One more reply to Mike (May 26, 2008 7:34 AM) – While I think we probably disagree to the extent to which GWB has damaged the checks and balances that are intended to prevent any branch of government from seizing excessive power, with only one example being how GWB routinely attaches a “signing statement” to any law he signs, thus twisting the intent of the law ratified by Congress to suit the President’s own agenda. Perhaps we can also agree it is a good thing that religious extremism in this Presidential election has at least been turned down a notch, as Obama has repudiated Wright, and recently McCain has finally repudiated his longtime spiritual advisor John Hagee’s beyond-the-pale fundamentalist hate and lunatic fringe apocalyptic theology (interesting how Wright’s blunderbluss dominated the mainstream media while Hagee’s ‘God sent Hitler to commit the Holocaust’ venom hardly registered a blip on the radar). And I am confident we can agree a government based on religious theology that tramples on the forefounder’s cornerstone tenet of separation of church and state is very, very dangerous indeed. That includes those countries in which the theocratic government places its leader as a de facto “god”, with North Korea top on that list. Peace.
It seems odd to get all worried about Iran developing nuclear weapons when Pakistan, a state that has provided safe havens for terrorists, and Israel, the country that Iran is supposedly all eager to obliterated, already have nuclear weapons (Google the name “Mordecai Vanunu”), and Saudi Arabia and Egypt have received billions in military aid from the U.S. The more I look at the world scene, the more I think that American politicians know that most of what they do does not benefit the American people, so they exaggerate threats to scare people into loyalty and obedience. Five years ago, Saddam Hussein was the alleged big threat, but when he turned out to be a paper tiger, the politicians had to look for a new enemy.
Tim, You may also want to check out http://bia2.com there is lots of interesting pictures. There is also music from virtually hundreds of under/over ground groups in Iran, rap, jazz, rock, pop, Persian classical etc. Note to Rick, Iran is by no means a uniform society, there are virtually as many ideologies and likes and dislikes as there are people. It would be wise to take anything that comes from your handler with a large grain of salt as he is the representative of the official (government) point of view. Like for example the idea that people agree to give up their freedom in order to live in a society without the western decadence. This is far from the truth when you talk to an average Iranian.
Mikey boy, you are stretching it a bit too far. Get it back under control. JK
Here are some websites about Iran you may find interesting. http://www.worldisround.com/articles/98910/index.html The web address above is to great pictures of Tehran. http://www.farsinet.com/iranchurches/ This website features beautiful churches in Iran. http://www.armenian-genocide.org/current_category.66/memorials_list.html This website shows pictures of the memorials throughout Iran to the Armenian genocide victims.
It’s fascinating that half the people seem irked that Rick is too “pro-Iran,” while the other half seem to think he’s showing a limited (and unflattering) side of Iran. Sounds to me like he’s doing a perfect job of being impartial.
Remember folks, Iran is 98% Shiite Moslem. They have every right to have a government that reflects their religious values.
rick, the problem is not the people of iran. it the crazy man who said israel should be push into the sea.
I WAS a nun, many years ago. When I travelled to Iran recently I brought along a photo of myself in full habit. In a museum in Isfahan we encountered a group of young Iranian women whose hajib and chador look ever so much like my photo. When I showed my nunny photo to the women; the first question they asked was, “How old were you?” We had a delightful conversation, took photos of each other, embraced, and parted in a shower of smiles and good will. Women’s attire in Iran is far more complex than just the notion that religious men are attempting to control women. In the course of several encounters and conversations I learned that women put their dress rules in place 30 years ago to “even out” the economic disparity that was displayed under the Shah: the wealthy class wore lavish European clothing while the poor were effectively discriminated against by the dress they could afford. In the US, some schools attempt to smooth a similar disparity with uniforms. Women also welcome the chador as a kind of protector against the “meat market” effect — American women know what that means. Iranian women got tired of being evaluated on the street, so chose a way to emphasize that “it’s what’s inside that counts.” At the same time, women, especially young women, chafe under the bully tactics of “morals police,” those persons who find empowerment through bullying others in the name of ‘enforcing the rules.’ I also learned that in the culture of Islam, high value is placed on women making themselves as lovely as possible IN THEIR HOMES, with their families. For Iranians, cohesive family life is of paramount importance, a ‘family values’ orientation that many in the US would envy. Above all, Iranians are in control of their situation, with all its restrictions and frustrations, and will gently caution a rebellion-minded Westerner to please let Iran take care of Iran.
The most disturbing thing about Rick’s trip and the comments posted is the lack of concern about Iran’s single-minded and zealous pursuit of nuclear weapons capability.”” The most disturbing thing about your comment is its lack of basis in reality. Iran has said repeatedly that it is NOT seeking nuclear WEAPONS, it is exercising its right to enrich uranium. In the last 4 months, Iran has thrice offered to submit to intrusive inspections of their nuclear plants — American media never includes that info in its “bomb Iran” refrain. Iran’s mountains are full of uranium; looking ahead 50 years (yeah, Iran’s leaders are “irrational & insane,” but they do recognize that they’ve got 70 million people, 60% under 30, that will have to be housed, fed, and employed over the next few years) Iran figures that the oil that is primarily on the Gulf side of their country may be depleted or stolen from them over the next years; to power their own nation and to produce a cash crop to sell to others, Iran is attempting to create nuclear power and enriched uranium for the global market. Iran has a highly diverse population, from nomads who live in tents to mountain villagers to urban Tehran with its 16 million congested citizens. To alleviate pressures of urbanization on cities such as Tehran, the IRI is attempting to create new cities in the desert. Natanz, the nuclear facility the US and Israel are most itching to destroy, is the center of a vast electric grid with lines stretched to plats of land that were planted with trees over 20 years ago, as a means of controlling desert erosion, moderating the climate, providing power, all with a view to carving another city out of the desert. A similar desert reclamation project is succeeding around Qom.
My, my! What a little game of gossip we have going here, by some. Please do yourselves a favor and stop repeating what you hear as if it were fact. It is simple enough to google the actual translation of what was said about Israel. They did not say they hoped or planned or prayed for the “destruction” of Israel. By international law, Iran is allowed to enrich uranium for power. If you think you can “divine” some other intent, you should join the circus. Parrots “parrot”, people are supposed to be able to think. If it is “liberal” to love other peoples and cultures, and to not just accept, but to celebrate the differences, then I am happy to be in the same company of Rick….and our founding fathers, who just happened to be LIBERALS! (google it).
hummm, I don’t beleive that you had spent your time in Tehran, Shiraz, Esfahan, and your seen on women have been always, covered ones like nans, and separated from men!!! Why there is no pics, of our fashionable girls, with colorful coats and scarves? Why you have no pic. shows men and women hang around together?
I went to Iran when I was 7 yrs old. My father was being transfered there with the military and had to take both my sister and I out of our cathlioc school in the U.S. I was nervous about the move and being taken away from the comfort and familiarity of the U.S. I was delighted when we arrived in Iran to see all these “nuns” walking about in Tehran and immediately felt comfortable. Needless to say, I found out otherwise … The chadors fooled me! My family spent two tours of duty in Iran and eventually Dad retired there. We enjoyed the warm hospitality of the Iranians and loved traveling the country. Living there was the best time of my family’s lives.
Terry, Before you go about sneering at others please note that there is still considerable controversy over how to tranlsate his speech. Here’s the link that gives both sides. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahmoud_Ahmadinejad_and_Israel Please don’t fall into the usual dogmatic trap that so many doctrinaire liberals and conservations hold. Sarcasm does not an argument make!
Sorry about the typo in the next to last sentence above. Should read “Please don’t fall into the usual dogmatic trap that so many doctrinaire liberals and conservatives do”.
Rick, I agree with your assessment of American materialism. On the other hand, I’ve been living in the UK (near Liverpool) for 3 years now, and I sometimes find the lack of advertising to be inconvenient. For example, if you’re on a driving vacation and are just looking for a motel type place to stop overnight, in america this is pretty easy. You see giant signs poking up over the freeway telling you where the next Holiday Inn or Mom ‘n’ Pop’s Motel is. In Europe there are less of these places and they’re harder to find. Another example is that I feel like I never know which movies are playing in the movie theaters over here. I’m so used to living in America and seeing the advertisements on TV, online, in magazines and newspapers etc. Here, you only occasionally see a movie advertised. If you want to know what’s on, you have to actually look it up. One of the great things about traveling for me, particularly when staying somewhere for a month or longer, is that first I learn about the new and different (and maybe better) ways of doing things, then as I settle in more, I also gain a new appreciation for the things that we do right in America. Almost every cultural difference seems to cut both ways. The more I travel the more I learn about other cultures and about my own.
Fascinating stuff.
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Sorry. The best way out is always through. I am from Cuba and , too, and now am writing in English, give true I wrote the following sentence: “You will become the master of the cheap airline ticket to south and central america too.” Waiting for a reply 8), Kamaria.
Excuse me. I really enjoyed it. You have done a great job. Help me! Can not find sites on the: kitchen islands. I found only this – Kitchen stove islands. Book it departure date – return date. Are looking for cheap airline tickets you came to the. Best regards :-), Vedie from Mauritius.