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| American journalist mugs with Revolutionary Guard. Enlarge photo |
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| Tehran, a mile-high metropolis of 14 million people. Enlarge photo |
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| Cameraman Karel gets photographed for his press pass. Enlarge photo |
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| Our welcome included building-sized anti-US murals showing American flags with Stars of David and dropping bombs painting the stripes. Enlarge photo |
I was hesitant to tell anyone about this trip until it was actually happening. One day into this experience, we are definitely here. Revolutionary Guards who can be coaxed to smile, four-lane highways intersecting with no traffic lights, “Death to America” posters, and big warm welcoming smiles…Iran is a fascinating and complex paradox.
Tehran is a mile-high metropolis of 14 million people. With one day of filming down, I’m in a fancy hotel on the 14th floor, enjoying a view of a vast city at twilight, lights twinkling right up a snow-capped mountain. I’m munching the best pistachios I’ve ever tasted (and I am a pistachio connoisseur) from an elegant woven tray and nursing a tall glass of pomegranate juice. I cruise the channels on my TV — CNN, BBC, and lots of mood-setting programming — perfect for praying… One channel shows the sun setting on Mecca, with its kaaba (the big black box focus of pilgrim worship), in real time. In an urban jungle like Tehran, life can be so good — if you have money.
Our local guide (who doesn’t want to be called a “government minder”) is a big help and very good. Today we dropped by the foreign press office to get our press badges. There a beautiful and properly covered woman took mug shots for our badges and carefully confirmed the pronunciation of our names in order to transliterate them into Farsi.
Filming is complicated on the streets of Tehran because there is no single authority in charge — many arms of government overlap and make rules that conflict with each other. Permissions to film somewhere are limited to a specific time window. If we have permission to film a certain building, it doesn’t mean we can film it from the balcony of a teahouse that we don’t have permission to film in, or from any angle that shows a bank — as those are not to be filmed. When we film a shop window, a security guard is on us immediately. Our guide/minder is kept busy asserting himself when someone representing some different branch of government puts up a road block. He makes it all possible. People here like to say, “Iranian democracy: You are given lots of options…and then we make your choice for you.”
We can talk to whomever we like — but it reminds me of my early trips to the USSR, when only those with nothing to lose would risk talking openly to us (at least when our “guide” was present). So many who’ve commented on the blog have assumed I am not troubled by the lack of freedom here. Civil liberties for women, religious minorities, and anyone who chooses not to embrace this self-described “revolution of values” are, to me the mark of a modern, free, and, I believe, sustainable democracy. Those both for and against my trip here all agree with that. A key word here is sustainable. I believe — given time and a chance to evolve on their cultural terms — the will of the people ultimately prevails. For now, this country is not free (and no one here claims it is). A creepiness that comes with big government pervades the place. I wonder how free-minded people cope. I am excited to sort this out as our trip goes along.
At the Shah’s palace — a museum since he was overthrown in 1978 — an old aristocratic woman came up to me and said, “We are united and we are proud. When you go home, you must tell the truth.” Iranians believe that Western media makes their culture look menacing, and never shows its warm, human and gracious side. I assured her that we were here to show the people of Iran rather than its bombastic government.
I understand well-employed people here make $5,000 to $15,000 a year, and pay essentially no tax. It seems to me that the economy doesn’t need to be very efficient, and taxes don’t matter much to a government funded by oil. Measuring productivity at a glance, things seem pretty low-energy. While the Islamic Revolution is not anti-capitalism, there seems to be a lack of incentive to really be efficient.
I can tell from our first day that the people of Iran will be the big joy of our visit — everyone’s mellow, quick to smile, very courteous. It’s almost like the country’s on valium. (But then, perhaps Iranians are just not driven as we are by capitalist values to work hard and enjoy material prosperity.)
In a bookstore a woman patiently showed me fine poetry books. As we left, she gave me a book for free. At the Shah’s palace, the public toilet was far away and a guard winked and slipped me secretly to a staff toilet — I imagine used by the Shah’s lackeys. The folks at the travel agency who set up our tour gave us each a platter of lemony pistachios…the best I’ve ever had. (My lips are puckered with them now as I type, as they are my standard bedside snack.)
I step out onto my hotel-room balcony to hear the hummm of 14 million people and marvel at fresh snow whitening the mountain above the ritzy high-rise condos of North Tehran. Looking straight down, the hotel’s entryway is buzzing with activity, as the hotel’s hosting a conference on Islamic unity. The circular driveway is lined by the flags of 30 nations. (Huge collections of flags seem to be common here — perhaps because it provides a handy opportunity to exclude the Stars and Stripes. Apart from being featured in hateful political murals, I haven’t seen an American flag.)
A van with an X-ray machine is permanently parked outside the entrance. Everyone who enters the hotel needs to pass their bags through this first. It’s interesting to see that Iran, a country we feel we need to protect ourselves from, handles security the same way we do.
Thank you for sharing this trip to Iran with us. Through your descriptions, my mind’s eye can vividly imagine what you must be seeing; but I know it will not even begin to compare with what you will be able to show us through more photos and ultimately the video. You are doing a wonderful service by learning about the Iranian people and their culture and by sharing that with all of us. Thank you for giving us the means to connect with them, if only vicariously through you.
Fascinating commentary so far, Rick. Enjoyed reading it. Keep up the good work. I like your comment on how everyone’s mellow, courteous, quick to smile… as if the country’s on Valium. This vaguely reminds me of that futuristic society in Aldous Huxley’s “Brave New World” – I believe the drug was called “soma,” no? lol
very interesting. thanks and looking forward to the next update….
Rick, Thank you very for putting a humanizing face on Iran. I can’t wait for your next update. Good luck to you and your team.
I like your shows and appreciate the earnestness and honesty with which you approach your work; however you open the dialogue by talking about your friend hoping to avoid war. I do not understand how anything you can show us will impact that potential but I do think that you are a good and fair ambassador whose presence reflects well upon us. I hope that may make one of them hesitate to actions against us and our servicemen and women. I think we all know the people of Iran like the people of any country are not inherently evil. I have Iranian friends who would say you cannot see their culture because the Bahai’s, Kurd’s and “real” Persians had their country stolen by the current regime. I am curous if you do see a difference between the Muslim and Persian cultures or if it seems that the Persian culture has been largely eradicated.
Rick ……………We will benefit from learning what you learn on your visit………..we can’t be there right this moment…….so I feel like I am a sponge for what you experience……I hope at a future time I too will be a visitor and get to meet the Iranian people and make friends also……and I agree that for the best experience …. in any country….politics need to be deferred for a while ………..as you say travel as a temporary local………the best way to connect…………..
My son’s high school wrestling coach is from Iran and is the type of person that all parents want their children to be like (e.g. kind, thoughtful, polite, etc.). Most people I know don’t have a problem with people of ocuntries that the U.S has diplomatic problems with. It is the goverments of those countries. I enjoy your bluntness and evenhandedness although it sounds like we may be of different political stripes. As the French say, telle est la vie. Enjoy your trip, be safe and I look forward to more of your updates and new shows.
Salam Rick, I’m from San Francisco, CA, I’ve been on your best of Europe tour, own many of your books, watched most your PBS specials. I’m Iranian and I’m very happy that you have chosen to go to Iran and write about it. Since I have traveled based on your writings I know what you say is right on and have validated and benefited by it when I followed it. what you write is not surprising and true. inefficiencies in economies creates more ways to make money, and mellows people out. The root of the problem is lack of opportunities to advance. The aggressive brains that are not connected to the government leave the country for better opportunities abroad, and the rest of the folks will have a pretty good life just living. Check out Chelo Kababi Alborz or Nayeb…very popular shih kababs. Load up on Safaran, it’s the cheapest and best. I would say for the viewers the City of Esfahan is the best for your show. its a Unesco protected city with buildings dating back to 3000 years ago. I’m including a link for readers that want to read more about Iran. http://persia.org/ Safar Khosh.
This is so interesting! What do Jackie and Andy think? I bet they’re glued to your blog for news, the way you were anxiously awaiting their blog entries as they travelled solo for the first time! Thanks, looking forward to the next one….
Now Rick, please get the important stuff- THE FOOD! I don’t know much about Iran, and I know absolutely nothing about Persian food. Please enlighten us.
Thanks for your descriptions. About the flags . . . the first lunch I had in Tehran (as an American tourist) was at the top of a hotel. The waiters immediately asked where we were from and placed a USA flag side by side with an Iranian flag in a small table holder! Also I never encountered the “Death to America” slogans for some reason. I only spent three days in Tehran and the rest of the month in other beautiful and intriguing places. For anyone curious about Iran: don’t be fooled by the stereotypes . . . go see for yourselves and meet Iranians. The guides can be helpful and there is a wide range of attitudes and ideologies amongst those 70+ million people!
Hey Rick, LOVE what you’re doing! I’ve been following you since the beginning and this current trip and blog is defintetly a worthy pursuit. I’m very much looking forward to the next one!!
Hi Rick, Thank you for the Irani update, having many Persian friends who live in the USA, it will be interesting to hear your experiences while you are there. I have heard from many Persian friends of how “Americans” are viewed, due to our “liberal” nature, and how “loose” our women are according to Moslem law. And that we support people of diversity. However, the food is great, especially in Tehran, hopefully you will be able to experience what is called “banquet or wedding” dishes, the rice dishes are superb. The saying is, a woman from Tehran must know how to cook rice a different way, for every day of the year, in order to be considered a good cook (that’s 365 ways to cook rice!). However once you are out of Tehran, the food is different, and not so oppulant. Enjoy your travels!
We have a young friend who visited Iran this fall for the first time since he left there at age twelve. Like you, he was nervous going, but he had a wonderful trip. I was struck by the landscape and the activities he did with Iranian relatives while he was there–The pictures he brought back of picnics and day hiking could have been here in California just as well. I was struck by how familiar it all seemed rather than how exotic it seemed.
Thank you Rick for giving me an insight into a world and culture I will probably never see for myself. Even though the government in Iran is definately anit-American we should not assume that all of the people are as well. Thank you again for showing us the other side of Iran-the people.
Rick I can’t tell you how truly exciting and refreshing it is for me to read your posts about Iran. An area of our world that has been so convoluted by politics that I doubt the truth is known by even a small percentage of the world. I have desperately wanted to have a source I could trust give me information from that part of the world. I have learned not to trust anything that is presented in our biased media. Please keep us informed and know that at least I for one salute you and wish you the very best. Be safe, be sure, and God Bless. Richard – Orange Park FL
My wife and I and frequently two children travel almost yearly. We are not rich; we just do it the Rick Steves way, backpacks and all. It is interesting that in all of our travels, we rarely encounter any anti-American sentiments…even our two trips to France were wonderful ;). I remember one trip when we went to the Soviet Union. I expected only the worst. To my surprise, we didn’t have the KGB following us around as we huddled in controlled groups. Instead, we had complete freedom to go, unescorted, anywhere we wanted in both Moscow and what is now St. Petersburg again. I have come to the conclusion that our government is just as much into propaganda as any government and the truths it tells are the truths it wants us to believe. I trust your perspective.
We returned from a wonderful trip to Iran just two weeks ago, with a group organized by Neighbors East and West. We stayed in very modest hotels, had budget meals, and found everything satisfactory. The people were so very gracious and hospitible, and pleased that we came to see their country. A highlight of our trip was visiting the small mountain village of Abyaneh, a UNISCO site, which is a side trip on the way to the beautiful city of Esfahan. Looking forward to reading your impressions of Iran.
Rick – Fascinating blog on Iran so far. What are the chances that you could update it EVERY DAY? And when you get back, please be sure to tell US how we can go over there, like who to contact, what tour services to use, etc. Have fun and stay safe!
I’m enjoying your blog so far – Very fascinating. I do have a recommendation: Avoid using the term “Farsi” when describing the official language spoken in Iran. The correct English term is “Persian”. Iranians themselves call it Farsi (and are at fault for spreading its use in the English language). Just as we don’t say “francais” in English, it’s best to use “Persian” when referring to “Farsi”.
Rick, Thanks for putting your time, money and effort into our country, no one in government seems to get it! I think after all these years if anyone can you can! Your are in our prayers. Judy
The camera is causing you to miss the real Iran because it attracts too much attention. Dump the camera, mix in with the people, go for a hike in the mountains or to the home of an Iranian family (I am sure you’ve already received invitations)
i visited Iran last year. Make sure to see the CROWN JEWELS because they are amazing -much nicer than any others.
>>>> CHURCH IN TEHRAN <<<<
the photo of the building with the flag is right next to a church. The crosses are visible in the photo. Go visit.
By the way — the US armed Saddam with chemical weapons to be used against Iran, causing 60,000 deaths. That’s 20 equivalents of 9-11/ Think Iranians can be “anti-American” Gee wonder why.
DEAR STEVE, I suggest THAT YOU TAKE A LOOK TO THE NATURE OF IRAN.AS YOU KNOW ENVIRONMENT IS THE BEST FOR THE HUMAN RELATION, IT WOULD BE HERITAGE IF WE RESPECT IT. HAVE A GOOD TIME SAM
Rick, thank you for accepting the personal and professional risk associated with taking a trip like this. My wife and I are travelling in Italy right now and have been reading your blog. While a trip to Iran may not be in our near future I look forward to learning from you more about the culture and the history of Iran in the same style you’ve covered European countries. I can’t think of a better American to have as an ambassador for us in Iran other than you. Safe travels from Siena, IT. Erik
Rick I have to admit I thought you would give this a glossy optimistic view of how things really are…you know your favority expression of making lemonaide when you are given lemons. But I am thrilled that you are giving us raw data, uncensorsed from your gut which makes me feel like I am really getting the full story and right there with you. I also am fascinated that you feel you can publish negative comments uncensored but then the government is not probably as tech savy as Russia but probably just as paranoid. I am saddened that the US is singled out for hatred and there are posters and buildings reflecting such sentimet but it is great that you show us this because we should not be lulled into believing that we are loved or tolerated. This has got to be your best post ever and maybe because this is something so new and your senses are heightened your writing reflects your obvious excitement. It’s like one can see your fingers excitedly taping away on the board, the excitement of not thinking three steps ahead of what you are going to write because it just spills forward. You mention pistachios enough that you really are a pistachio freak aren’t you. Can’t wait for your next post I am now hooked.
This is my 2nd comment. In my 1st, I praised RS for bringing his approach to Iran & I followed the guidelines & avoided politics. But I would be less than honest if I did not say this; I realize that you won’t print it, but I sincerely hope that you will think about it. Please do not forget that Iran is a dangerous country, both because of the threat of nuclear power & because they have blatantly said that their mission is to wipe the state of Israel off the face of the earth. Please, RS, do not let your zeal for sharing cultures allow you to overlook these facts.
Rick says, “A creepiness that comes with big government pervades the place.” Exactly the reason why many of us still lean conservative — to avoid the same big government solutions advocated by the likes of B.H.Obama et al. Our own State Department says (on its Travel Warning website): “U.S. citizens of Iranian origin who are considered by Iran to be Iranian citizens have been detained and harassed by Iranian authorities. Former Muslims who have converted to other religions, as well as persons who encourage Muslims to convert, are subject to arrest and prosecution.” >> Would be interesting to ask your hosts of these things — but then again, you’d better not!
Dear Rick, We had such a fabulous tour of Ireland with our Stephen McPhilemy. A safe place where we were not only enthusiastically welcomed, but we were safe and we could get to know the Irish because we all spoke the language. The scaries thing is the rope bridge, but I survived. I am terrified for you as you go on the new adventure, and for the sake of your family and the rest of your travel family, please be as safe as possible. It makes me wonder if you have run out of other safer places to go. And I really do not think there is anything that you can influence, nor should you try. But you have never been squeamish, so I will just pray that you come home with a show, and at leat I won’t have to worry about tours… We’ll always be Irish, June 2004, leas meas. wendi
Thanks Rick for the update. I look forward, with great curiousity, to reading future blogs on your current trip to Iran. This sounds like a complicated and confusing place for a Westerner, but I believe you are parsing it well with your great knowledge and experience of travel and people in general. Stay safe and good luck!
Good day, Rick — You have us all glued to our monitors for the next post. This is a fascinating trip on which you’ve embarked. The thrill of seeing a new and different culture is what drives many of our “wanderlusts,” and your current destination certainly fits that bill for most of us. I also appreciate your attempts to report the country it as you find it. The paradox of a nation which has an unopen and unforgiving government juxtaposed with an open and friendly people is unfortunately all to common in this world. Keep it real and tell us both the positives and negatives you find. Godspeed, Jim
Rick: Thank you, thank you, thank you! I was so excited to find you in Iran. Last night my husband and I shared dinner with friends who left Iran as Christian refugees 7 years ago. Their lives here have been challenging, but safe and offered educational freedom for their children. However, they still have family and friends in Iran that they worry about, especially as we hear more talk of war. I told them about your mission to put a face on the people of Iran, which will let everyone know that we are one people. We are putting our faith and hope in your ability to bring people together, and, hopefully, peace for all. Our thoughts and prayers are with you.
Another fascinating read. I very much enjoy seeing the photographs as well. The pistachios sound wonderful! Thank you for taking time to blog about your journey through Iran – you’re a great ambassador for reaching out to the people of Iran and extending an American citizen handshake of friendship. The former Persia is rich with culture, history, art and people – explore and enjoy as we join you on this journey.
Rick, I have found your trip/blog fasinating. My husband and I are traveling to Iran in June of this year. This will be my first trip, he is from Iran. Being married for 30 years, it is time. We are taking our 2 adult daughters with us and we are all excited. My husband talks about Iran with such passion and always has said that the people and culture are wonderful. We can hardly wait. I think that you are doing a great thing for this everyone by showing the hospitality and culture of a country we have been told we should fear. I look forward to reading much more!
I really appreciate your willingness to take on this so important journey. As a veteran of 22 years service including one “hot” and one cold war, this sort of effort can hopefully help avoid another disaster similar to the one we find ourselves involved with now. If we see the faces of everyday people in other countries, we soon learn that the greatest majority of people just want to live a happy life and to be left in peace. I hope some of our leaders take advantage of the insight your journey offers. DW
Hey Rick – don’t become a hostage. Bush doesn’t need any more bad pub.
Bravo Rick! I’ve sent your blog to lots of friends and family. Knowing you, we are all looking forward to learning how it might really be if we could travel to Iran at this time. What a gift you are giving to all of us here in America, and hopefully the larger world. Many thanks!
Renee, this is not a complaint, just a question. You said, “My husband talks about Iran with such passion and always has said that the people and culture are wonderful.†So I wonder why doesn’t he live there? My Sweetie and I traveled in dozens of countries, and we very often said, “Would we like to live here, even for a year or two.†The answer was always no. The statement, “It’s a great place to visit, but we wouldn’t like to live there,†is the truth. What I could never understand is the many people from many, many countries that I have talked to in the USA, who talked about how nice their home country was, but they didn’t live there. I just don’t understand that. I don’t agree with each and every thing done or said in the USA, but I still would not live anywhere else. And this is a honest question, why do the Armenians, the Iranians, the Cubans, and all the other people say how much they love their country, but they don’t live there? Why? If you really cared about the people in your homeland, but thought the culture in the USA is best, go home and change that culture. Don’t expect someone, not born there, to change the culture, that should be done by home bodies. Go home and make your homeland livable! You can see that the USA trying to change the culture in Iraq is not working at all.
Here is a link from Tehran for those enthusiasts looking for daily updated pictures from Tehran and other Iranian cities. This site will keep you connected to Iran with beautiful pictures until Rick produces his audio/ video reports : ) http://WWW.TEHRAN24.COM
I wish I could visit Iran. But thanks to your show, I will be soon. Thanks for doing this!
Rick, I don’t see any dissenting opinions expressed on your blog so I have doubts whether my posting will make it there. My son is currently active duty in Afganistan. It is a known fact that Iran is financing and bringing weapons into Iraq that are killing our young men and women. You are promoting a regime that are our enemies. Of all the places in the world that you could go, you choose this, I suppose to push your political agenda, which has filtered through other postings. My husband and I enjoy your travel shows and until now, have always been fans. No longer. Bad decision, bad judgement. JP
Thanks, Rick, for leading the way. Maybe we will soon have one less enemy in the world because of you.
Very interesting! I wish you and your crew every success on your visit in Iran. I look forward to seeing the shows to learn more. Take good care on your travels there.
A comment about the post of JP above: Just like the government of the United States doesn’t necessarily reflect the thoughts and behavior of its citizens, perhaps the everyday Iranian people are not like their government. The fact that Rick seems to be encountering friendly people tells me a lot. We need to be wary of their government to be sure, but perhaps we should not be so quick to label them all as our enemies.
Rick, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Regardless of our political leanings, I am sure most of us are interested in a country and culture that many will never have the opportunity to visit. While most of us don’t agree with their government, you can’t hold it against the people. Not everyone hates Americans – just our government. And while much of our “news” shapes our view, I am sure the same is true for them. It will be nice to be able to see a people beyond the images and stereotypes we are given. As for the poster above, my brother also served in Afghanistan. And while the government hates us (our government) as well as many of the people in Iran, I don’t hold it against them. Rick seems to want to show us the people and culture we don’t see. It’s unfortunate that many Iranians don’t get to see the real picture of many of us as well.
I agree with Dave above. In your rush to show the building with the anti American flag, you missed the church in the same photo. A church in Tehran tells me more about Iran than the anti American graffiti, and frankly, considering the facts of our historical relations between teh US and Iran, I dont blame them for some anti Americanism. Our CIA overthrew their democracy in 1953, for starters.
Why would a church tell you about Iran…we have thousands of Mosques in the US so does that mean the Iran leadership respects or understands us? Of course they are anti-american they took our countrymen hostage for no good reason under Carter and held them for like what a year? You probably are young and don’t remember those days, it was a very grim time. The 1953 Iranian coup d’état saw the overthrow of the democratically-elected administration of Iranian Prime Minister Mohammed Mosaddeq and his cabinet from power by British and American intelligence operatives working together with Iranian agents and elements of the Iranian army. The British asked Truman to participate and he said no, they waited for Eisenhower who said yes. Old History ….hostages much newer. You know what is so horrid is it all goes back to religion…all the holywars, WWII, IRA,Jenry the eight, why we came to the USA from England, Isreal,,,,if there was no religion there would be so much less bloodshed. Let’s do away with religion and see what shakes out
Hi Rick, Thanks for taking on this project! I’m a longtime fan, having used your guidebooks to plan numerous European trips since 1995. I think you really are the best ambassador for America and I’m excited to see you visiting my native country, Iran! Having visited 3 years ago, I can say that the crazy traffic is just about the only danger you’re likely to face (that, and possibly “Tehran tummy”). I agree with a couple of posters before me: see if you can visit a church. There are touristy churches in Esfahan (e.g. Vank Cathedral: “mosque-y” dome with Christian frescoes inside), but you can find workaday churches in any major city. Have fun and “happy travels!”
I used to work in academia. After Russia and China opened up and began sending exchange professors to our school, I was fascinated to learn that during the Cold War, they had believed that the U.S. wanted to wipe them out. “We were told that our government needed nuclear weapons because otherwise the U.S. would destroy us,” one of the Chinese said. They were astonished when I told them that we in the U.S. had been told that the Russians and Chinese wanted to nuke US. It’s something to think about with all the scare talk of Iran developing nuclear weapons.
Hi citizen of the earth ;) I think you’d better spend sometimes with Iranian young boys and girl, attending in their night life, partying and having fun, the other side of life in Tehran. Besides of all restriction set on having fun, young guys here are very jovial. Tehran has many suburbs, such as Lavasan, Fasham and Shemshak, which reach people, or even mid-level families, spend their leisure times there. I think you find luxurious cars here more than any other places.Anyway don’t miss things anything, here you can find absolutely everything ;)
Thank you for opening Iran to us through your camera! In 1964 I had the privilege of spending time there, arriving by third-class desert bus via Syria and Iraq. I remember wonderful people and sights in Tehran, Isfahan, and Shiraz–again, all by third-class bus. The best to you!
SKIING IN IRAN!? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waMBt6EnsT8 A MUST SEE! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qkkt7_dGW-s
Thank you for a very informative blog Rick. Unfortunatly, It’s poeple with the mind set of a couple of posters who shall remain nameless that cause misunderstanding between people of two nations. Remember, the people are not evil, it’s the governments. And 2nd, 1953 is old story to you but not to the people of Iran who are still living under oppression because of 1953, (not old news). Open your mind and think first say something constructive next time. Thank you….
Wow! You’re braver than I…I wouldn’t get much sleep traveling in a country with “Death to America” signs posted in public! ….even if the people on the street were gracious. If the government approves of hate-filled signage about ANYONE then it is a government that can’t be trusted. Remember the hostages held for over a year! Love you, Rick…be safe.
Actually, the basis for Anti-Americanism in Iran (and no, it is not limited to just the government) is more recent than 1953. Iranians resent US support for Saddam during the Iran-Iraq war, the shootdown of Iran Air 655 by the USS Vincennes, and other similar acts. But even if they resent the US government, they don’t blame the American people. We in the states should be less knee-jerk defensive, and insist less that everyone should love our government as well as us. And lets face it, Anti-Americanism exists elsewhere too.
Hey Rick, Never mind the revolutionary guards, you do your thing. Isn’t it funny that the more you travel the more you find that people are the same? They have the same concerns at the end of the day!
Rick, I am interested in creating student to student conversations between US and Iranian kids. Do you see ways to create IM or email conversations? Ideas? Thanks for your important work.
hi rick! i see ur planning ur next big tour package, a few anti american slogans and a few flag burnings and maybe a new hostage or 2. i bet it was fun going in to passport control and may i recommend another lovely trip and u can say a howdy do to our dear friends in uzbekistan too.
Thank you for doing this important work with curiosity, integrity, intelligence and compassion. Imagine what this world could be if we each gave our best. Thank you, thank you a thousand times.
Rick, You are doing what most Westerners should, however many don’t receive such an opportunity. I think that your work is an important move to show the humanity in all demonized nations(as western media would like us to believe). We are as conditioned as Iran in many aspects, to see a one sided view of our so called enemies. The mainstream media has an agenda here in North America that doesn’t worship Allah, but the almighty US dollar. (which is dropping drastically I might add). I am not justifying the Iranian regieme and it’s horrible grip on it’s people, however that is obviously a one dimensional political view of a nation of millions. The world is changing, Western economies are going broke on their dependance for oil. The U.S. looks like it is loosing it’s grip on the world economy. We need to change our approach from bombardment to cultural sensitivity and goodwill. Thank you for exemplifying (in my view) this approach. Cheers! Shawn Barber Kingston, Ontario Canada
Hi Rick, I would like to help you be the “Peace Ambassador†that you can be, and suggest a couple of ideas that your government minder might not know about: In Isfahan: Please make sure to see the Armenian Church that has a memorial to the Armenian Holocaust. The Tea house under “Zayandeh Rood†Make sure to stay at “Hotel Abasi†and eat their “Ash†and enjoy a great “Breakfast Buffet†In Shiraz: Please get an educated tour guide for Persepolis who is not afraid of mentioning the positive things about our Persian (non-Islamic) ancestry, e.g. the many nations that were under Cyrus and enjoyed freedom of religion, no matter what their religion was. The fact that during Akamadian (2,700 years ago) laborers were paid for their work and there was no slavery… there are evidence of these in Persepolis museum. In Tehran: See the other side of Iranian Women (lawyers, Doctors, professors and CEOs); Try to contact “Banovan Taxi Services Or Aria†has a woman founder and CEO, and all women Taxi drivers.Can contact them by calling 133. Mayor of 9th district in Tehran is a woman. Go Hiking in “Darakeh†north of Tehran. Try either Thursday or Friday, and see the many women hikers…. Visit the “Milad†shopping Mall in west of Tehran and see Milad Tower and Hospital. Name of some good restaurant in Tehran: Koohsar in Darband (north of Tehran) Ali Ghapoo in Gandi street. Rafabes in Vozara Square. “Ordake Abi†or “Blue Duck†in Tandis area. Monson in Gandi street. Have fun and can looking forward to your show. In Isfahan
Rick! You are the best ambassador. Please continue to let people of Iran (and Syria?) know the truth about what we think about our president and then they will like us and change their minds about developing nukes.
Good day dear Rick Steves I have been watching your shows on PBS, ever since their debut on the network. I hereby, take the opportunity to congratulate you on your Iran episode. Though I’ve watched your TV shows, but never had the chance to read your travel stories in your web blog. I must confess that it is as fascinating as your video shows, it’s informative, unbias and entertaining, all at the same time. Keep up the good work, I’m looking forward to watching your Iran show on TV (hopefully). Sincerely your Cyrus Jerati
salam man amiram az mashhad ma raise kole ajil khoshkbare mashhadim va alan bande tajere peste hastam har goone maghze peste ya peste khastin bande dar khedmatam in site bande hast http://www.fardispistachio.com