The Legacy of the French Revolution in Arles

St. Trophime Church in Arles, France

As a student of history, I’ve long been fascinated by the fanaticism of the French Revolution (1789), which challenged every aspect of French society with “the test of reason.” If something wasn’t logical, it was swept away. For example, the calendar — rather than 7-day weeks, with months of 30 or 31 days (not to mention the weird February thing) — was turned into 12 months of 30 days each (divided into three ten-day weeks), with five days left over for service to your country.

Also during the Revolution, churches were turned into “temples of reason.” I’d never actually seen a tangible sign of this. But recently in Arles — checking, fine-tuning, and beefing up my coverage of the town’s sights for our France guidebook — I stepped into St. Trophime Church in search of another dimension. In a side chapel was this faded painting from 1789: a triangle within a sunburst, celebrating reason rather than religion.

It’s so fascinating to actually see the layers of history here. Has anyone seen other examples of this in France?

St. Trophime Church in Arles, France

Arles, Where Walls Are Unpainted On Purpose

Arles, in the South of France, is not as rich as Avignon or as trendy as Aix-en-Provence. But it feels gritty and real, with a patina of life that I find very seductive. When I saw this gorgeous wall, as if awaiting a painter’s attention, I asked if it was an initiative of the town or tourist board. My guide said, “No, that’s just the way we like it.”

Arles, France street cafe

Also, Cameron is highlighting lesser-known Milan in my Travelers Café.

Video: Marseille’s Vibrant North African Market

Marseille feels like Europe’s gateway to Africa. About a quarter of its population is from North Africa, and two million people ride its ferries across the Mediterranean each year (most shuttling from here to Algeria and Tunisia). Like Los Angeles or Miami, the city has its melting-pot challenges (and some immigrant-related crime). But it is vibrant, it is reality, and no trip to southern France is really complete without a stop here. In this little clip, walk with me for a moment through the North African market in the center of Marseille.

Budget Hotels Come with Great Memories

 

A great thing about traveling in France (I think even more than in other countries) is how the characteristic, family-run little hotels survive. Follow me as I greet my host, Patrice, and climb the spiral staircase in my choice in downtown Avignon, Hôtel Colbert. At about $100 for a double room with breakfast, it’s about half the price, double the rough edges, and double the memories of a more modern place.

Avignon Farmers Market

Cities all across France now have modern and efficient “farmers markets” in practical indoor halls, with big parking garages overhead. These were built so this important slice of the local culture can survive the competition brought on by France’s hypermarchés (huge suburban shopping centers). As I’ll explain in this clip, at these markets you’ll find lots more than a charming and colorful people scene; you can also eat well and affordably. I find that in my guidebooks all across Europe, for lunch I’m recommending sitting down with the local shoppers at the traditional market. What’s your favorite market experience (or meal) in Europe?