The honey-colored flypaper spirals down from a thumbtack, anchored in midair by its now-empty canister. Speckled with lifeless flies, it swings each time the violin bow pokes it.
It’s very tight quarters as the string quartet plays everything from Bach and Smetana to Czech folk favorites and 1930s anti-fascism blues. The string bass player grooves like a white Satchmo — his bow sliding in and out between diners under the table. My sweater is just in the way.
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The bandleader plays a 100-year-old black wood flute. During a break, I finger its mouthpiece — worn like an ancient marble relic by countless nights of music-making. The flautist sports a big bushy moustache just like the emperor — Franz Josef — who looks down from a yellowed poster.
Above the quartet is a high window. Teenage heads bob into sight — straining and craning on tiptoes to look in. Each time a song ends, beers giggle golden on rough wood tables as the roaring crowd claps and cheers for more. As the night wears on, there are fewer tourists clicking photos and more locals singing along. As the quartet sways together like seaweed in a nostalgic musical tide, it occurs to me that in little towns all over the world, no-name bands are causing strangers to smile…and drink more beer.
Crossing the Czech border, I stow my love of wine away, and become a beer-lover. Here, the beer hits your table like a glass of water does in the States. On my early trips — before I learned Czech beer is more powerful than the beer your father drank — I used to have a big beer at lunch and spend the rest of the day wobbly…sightseeing on what I called “Czech knees.” Now, when in the Czech Republic, I resist a momentum-killing beer at lunch and finish each day with a fresh draft beer (tonight’s is still trying to kill my momentum as I type).
Honza, the co-author of my Prague guidebook and my sidekick this week as we film a TV show on “The Czech Republic Beyond Prague,” told our camera, “These days, with the EU opening things up, so many Poles and Hungarians are going west to France and Germany to get jobs. But not the Czechs. We can’t find good enough beer anywhere but here. This beer keeps us glued to these bar chairs.”
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Back in my hotel, I climb to my attic room — careful not to bean myself on a medieval wooden beam. (I feel like I’m sleeping in a playground structure built before the age of steel piping.) I lean out my tiny dormer window, the sound of the boisterous bar small in the distance.
I am so happy for the freedom, peace, and prosperity countries like this are enjoying. The new, sturdy roof tiles around me are slick with a light rain. The street, wet and shiny, is as clean as a model-railroad town. Cars, while not expensive, are new and parked tidy as a jukebox. The scene is lit by cheap yellow lampposts. After forty bleak years of communism, the lampposts seem to be intentionally cheery…like a fashion accent decorating the line of pastel facades that arcs out of sight.
In small Czech towns, the facades are humble. Three centuries ago, each was given an individual personality — with far more variety and fun designed into them than even the famous gables of Amsterdam. And today — after a grime-filled 20th century — they sport new paint jobs: A mellow rainbow of simple solid pastels, with lines that accent the individuality of each facade. And behind each facade lives a family.
I wish I was there! I have fond memories of Prague and its wonderful beer. We had an opportunity during a pub crawl to visit 3 outstanding establishments on a warm summer evening. The discussion was intersting and the beer was liberating. I will return to see other areas of the Czech Republic in the near future. Until then I will follow your progress through Europe. Good travels!
A sentimental Rick? I vote this your best post…ever. It gets at the heart of a lot of human longing…or is it the “momentum”?
Great Post! I was in Prague last September, the Czech people are wonderful and the beer is awesome (and cheap!). I can’t wait to go again!
After a full day of sightseeing, Emmy was tired, so since the ambulances weren’t running a regular schedule, she stayed in the RV while I just had to walk in downtown Prague.
At the McDonald’s Restaurant near the Charles Bridge, the public restrooms were not free, exactly. Approximately 12¢ for a woman, and 8¢ for a man. Something about the plumbing! That McDonald’s was located near the US Embassy, the residence of Ambassador Shirley Temple Black, really
In Prague, Czech Republic, we drove around downtown a while, then this ‘ol homing-pigeon driver drove directly to the campground in Branik, a few miles south of Prague, on the west side of the Vltava River. I don’t understand. I have driven in how many cities since we were here last, four years ago? We came to this ancient city with a tangled jumble of streets, from a different direction than in either of the previous two years we visited, but still, right to the campground. It sometimes seems a map would be a hindrance.
Hi Rick, I was in Cesky Krumlov for a few lovely days last week, and I stopped by the vegetarian restaurant (a few doors down the alley near the bridge by the castle) just for a beer by the river. It turned out to be the most pleasant evening I spent in the Czech Republic: The owner, David, is delightful; I think you’d enjoy him. (He has a tea room and meditation room next door, too.) Although I’m neither a vegetarian, nor a tea drinker, (nor a meditator), I got lots of samples of scrumptious stuff, and just thought if you were around there, you might enjoy popping in, as well.
This sounds like a very nostalgic, romantic corner of Europe. A welcome change of pace. Enjoy, Rick! I’m still planning my trip to Ireland. :)
We stayed at a fantastic place in cesky krumlov..it was called Pension Barbakan. info@barbakan.cz or http://www.barbakan.cz A wonderful stay!!!
Three different years we visited the St. Vitus Cathedral. At an archaeological dig near the Cathedral, we watched as college age students were finding both small items of interest, and items of small interest.
As we drove slowly past a group of Czechoslovakians repairing a Prague street, they saw our US flag bumper-sticker, they smiled, waved and one man hollered,“American!â€
Prague’s Jewish Cemetery is one of the most unusual old curiosities we have ever seen. In just a very few acres 100,000 people were buried between the 1400’s and the 1700’s. People were buried eight and ten deep and the headstones almost touch each other
One year we talked to a lady who had been born in Prague, spent time in Auschwitz when she was 14, and is now revisiting her home, and that place of horror. She had married a German man and they now operate a Bed & Breakfast in San Francisco. Ten years later I called the phone number on her business card, and found she remembered us well.
I first visited Prague in 1995. Will be returning this September. I would like to travel from Munich to Cesky Krumlow then on to Prague. Haven’t been able to find much information on Cesky Krumlow and also a train schedule from Munich to Cesky Krumlow. Any help would be appreciated as to times/schedules and lodging.
We arrived in trip to Prague in May, 2005 at the time the Czechs won the World Hockey Championships held in Vienna. It was fun to be there and to party and celebrate with them. Nobody died that we heard.
I should have mentioned that we visited Czechoslovakia, and later the Czech Republic, in the years 1985, 1991, 1995. The 1985 visit was behind the Iron Curtain, the 1991 trip was as they were just getting used to freedom, and in 1995 all was much different from the first visit. The people were nice in all visits, but by 1995, they did not look over their shoulder before talking with us, or even helping us find a streetcar or bus. We used a note on a piece of paper, sometimes English, not their language. Worked fine. Those stories told above in the two comments, look much different than if they had happened in the 2000’s. I should have dated each of them. And by the way, always in an RV. There were campgrounds, with many, many occupants every trip. The only way to FLY!!!
My husband and I just returned to Prague – Ujezd nas Lesy – where we are staying for another week with family, from 24 hours in Vienna. We followed your book and had great self guided tours and meals!! We wondered if you might be in Vienna and we kept an eye out – I came to the site tonight because we are going into central Prague tomorrow and I knew I would find a good restaurant recommendation from you! Needless to say I am thrilled to know you are here and will keep an eye out! Your books and show are THE BEST!
I really love Prague, have been there twice. This last time we rented an apartment we found online because there were 6 of us going. It was HUGE! Very bright, clean, updated. But only one bathroom. Still look into apartments if you are traveling in groups. Would love to visit some of the other special Czech places I’m sure you’ll be showing us next season. Can’t wait to see the new episodes…I’m such a travel junkie…
Dobre den, Rick! My family has just returned from Prague where we were lucky enough to spend a year living. My daughter attended international school, I worked as a school nurse, my eldest son studied at Charles University, and my husband’s clients hailed from almost every European nation. It was an adventure of a lifetime to live among the warm and sincere Czechs. Your guidebooks accompanied us on all our adventures within the Czech Republic and throughout Europe. Your encouragement to live and experience these countries as a native made our travels worth their weight in gold. Also your advise to try and speak even a little native language opened umbelievable doors to us! Yes, we only had very rusty high school French and Spanish……Thank you!! B.Lazzeri Phoenix, AZ
We spent three days in Cesky Krumlov. Were thrilled at the castle and especially its gardens. Ate at the vegetarian restaurant mentioned above and had one of the best meals of our life. The owner, David, joined us briefly. He would look great on TV! The name of the place is the Laiban Restaurant. Also stayed at the Maleho Vitka Hotel +420.226.201 910-13 http://www.pragueholiday.cz/umalehovitka.phpu. Huge room with very few furnishings. Very short walk to town square or castle. Hotel staff very helpful. Jan, the main gal was incredible. Even fixed us special breakfasts that we could take with us and eat in the taxi when we had to leave at 5 am. I did a blog of our trip to Prague and Cesky Krumlov. Don’t think Rick wants that posted on his site, but if anyone wants to see it , email me and I will send it to you. John