Studying Italian restaurants in the last week, I came up with some theories.
While I’ve never liked putting up with TV noise when grabbing a simple meal in Europe, I now realize that when an eatery has the TV playing, it’s often because it’s where the local workers drop by to eat…and that indicates a low price and a good value.
I’ve realized I should stay away from restaurants famous for inventing a pasta dish. Alfredo (of fettuccini fame) and Carbonara are both Roman restaurants, and they’re both much more famous than they are good. And seeing how the back lanes of Rome are clogged with cars has inspired me to think a little about adopting a diet that won’t clog my arteries. (But not until after this trip.)
Italy’s no-smoking rules have caused some bars to stop serving drinks earlier than before. That’s because now that they have to be smoke-free, young drinkers who want a cigarette take their drink outside…which disturbs neighbors who didn’t hear the action back when people stayed (and smoked) inside. Neighbors complain, and bars comply.
The other day I was talking about styles of guiding with an Italian tour guide. He explained that guides here all know that when dealing with cruise-ship travelers or Americans, the more jokes you tell, the more tips you get. This shapes many guides’ delivery.
Italians are pretty excited about Fiat having purchased Chrysler, given Fiat’s hybrid technology and passion for fuel efficiency. I’ve spent two days in the last week with guides driving tough, economic little four-wheel-drive Fiat Pandas. They love them and predict that Americans will be driving small European-style cars in the future. I know when many Americans hear the word Fiat they think “Fix It Again Tony”… but it’s not your grandmother’s Fiat any more.
For the first time I encountered a guest house that chose not to install phones in its rooms because nearly all their guests travel with cell phones now.
While I pride myself in not needing to dress up to enjoy a good restaurant, there is a limit. I was in a restaurant yesterday where a couple of American travelers made me get my notebook out and jot down, “Even in a modest trattoria, shorts and T-shirts look goofy at dinner.”
Italian TV actually broadcasts Obama speeches and press conferences live — Italians remain enamored with our president. Part of their fascination with Obama is that it stokes their dream that they can replace their cartoonish president, Berlusconi, someday soon.
My American friend Annie, and her Italian husband, took me out to a great restaurant in Volterra. The waiter recommended the day’s specials: wild boar and fried brain. I’ve had lots of wild boar, as it’s big throughout Tuscany. And for the last few days I’ve had a fried brain, too.
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| Annie’s baby is bilingual. She says “Yummy liver” in Italian to her daddy and in English to her mommy. Enlarge photo |
Annie has the cutest little two-year-old. Annie said parents raising bilingual children here figure their kids will at first fall six months behind linguistically, as they grapple with the confusion of double language input. But, by the age of five, most bilingual children are ahead of other kids their age in each language. As for little Julia, she was wondering why English words don’t end in vowels like all of her dad’s words. She says “clock-o,” “ghost-o,” and “dog-o.”
Thanks for posting again so soon. I just love reading about your adventures and insights.
Love this entry. So tell us about fried brains. I know I couldn’t stomach them. You are brave!
Thanks Rick. Some points to add-The more south you go in Italia, the less the smoking ban is enforced. I have a FIAT and FORD in Italia and both have been great. I hope FIAT does well Stateside.The bi-lingual child point is correct. It does take about 6 months for them to catch up but they are well prepared via vocabulary and accent in the future. The key is having only one parent stick with one language. This helps avoid some confusion. As for the food here, simple and local is almost always best-good call. And yes, unless you are going to the beach, leave the shorts at home. Ciao, Tony
Brains, I still remember by southern grandmother making them for me as a child for breakfast. She had scrambled them in eggs. They were good, but I was a bit repulsed at the concept of eating the pig’s brains after she told me. How did you find them? They still are not something I choose to eat. I come here often during the week. Things are tough in our economy and I use this as a pick-me up for the day. I find myself rereading everything mulitple times so that I know that I have squeezed everything out of it I can. Then when the new post arrives my adventure starts anew. Thanks again for your kind posts and willingness to share. Cheers.
My nephew is in a bilingual program in Rochester NY. He’s been in it since he was six. School is in Spanish on Monday/Wednesday/Friday and English on Tuesday/Thursday. He does get enriched reading in English, but he gets better every week. My sister says that his accent is spectacular! They are getting a student from Spain for a month this summer, which should be an adventure. I’m planning on taking young James with on my first trip to Spain in a few years. ; ) Cheers to all parents who help their children become bilingual. Pam
Mt sister raised her three children bilingually speaking English and German, but forgot to teach them to read and write in German. That was a big handicap to overcome for them later.
American travelers Ever see the movie In Bruges where the main character (a thug) beats up an obnoxious American tourist complaining about second hand smoke? Turns out later in the movie we find out the guy who got beat up was Canadian. I have to agree however unless it’s ungodly hot put on some pants for dinner.
Rick,Berlusconi cartoonish? He’s extremely popular in Italy…and many Italians are cartoonish…let’s be realistic here…BONJOURNO wore away real quick on my last visit…I no longer wear rose colored glasses….it is what it is….
Just to correct rko’s feckless post, the words are “buon giorno”. It is a pitty some people take such trauma from manners and greetings…but to each their own. Also to add some fact, Berlusconi is not “extremely” popular. He is a little above average in the North and well below average in the South when looking at polls. But don’t let facts get in the way of a post. Maybe people should take their rose coloured glasses to some places they might find nicer like Detroit or Kabul. Write away Rick! Viva Italia!
Rick, I don’t always remember to check your Blogs (too busy on the HelpLine) but always enjoy reading them. Thanks for another interesting installment! You’re certainly braver than I would be with some of the local delicacies. I hopefully won’t be dining on fried brains any time soon. Regarding the language training, it’s great that your friend’s daughter has that opportunity, as I’m sure it will benefit her in life. I know from experience that it’s much more difficult to learn another language when one is older. I’m still working on Italian, and wonder if I’ll ever be fluent.
My two year old twin grandchildren are being raised bilingual, English & German. They speak only English to Mom & only German to Dad, and they do quite well. My biggest problem with it is sometimes wondering what language they are speaking because at two no one speaks perfectly in any language. They will also have to learn Swiss German, as they live in Switzerland. Oh, and my mother used to fix brains and eggs, too, and she was from Minnesota. I guess Lutherans eat them, too.
We just returned from a week in Scotland. This is our first trip to Europe since the 2008 elections. Comparing this trip to prior trips under previous administrations, the people we visited showed very little interest at all that we are from America or interest in American politics. This compares to visits during the Bush and Clinton administrations when the Europeans we visited with were anxious to visit with us about America. Now, under President Obama they just did not seem to care. Perhaps they were just glad that any American was coming for a visit in the current economy. Perhaps the Obama hype is just that – hype not shared by the average European. Or perhaps the people Rick visits with know his politics and play to his favorites
Rick, love your blogs especially the one concerning religion I am about two weeks away from returning to Venice and then my first visit to four eastern European countries. Do not agree with Alan’s view on the excitement with our new president. We have friends from previous visits to Scotland, Sweden, Germany, and Italy, and each one has expressed joy with our new president.
I agree, put on some damn pants! When in a nice place eating dinner you will get better service. Its the same all over the world.
Rick, If possible, could you give me the name of the restaurant in Volterra that served fried brian? I might be in that region and would like to try out different cuisine. I ordered your Best of Europe travel book, but it has not arrived yet…and I am leaving for Europe in 13 days! Thank you, Judy
When studied French in college, a zillion years ago, I was treated to a study that claimed young kids could learn up to six languages at a time, as long as each speaker stayed within that language.
I find it interesting you believe the American consumer will buy fuel efficient Fiats. I, for one, am more interested in the health and safety of my family than to put them into a little tin can. We shall see which view prevails. As I am well over 6 feet I will assume they will build so that I and the rest of my family can fit.
Rick whenever this traveler visits europe he takes particular note of auto ads. The small print on every ad contains milage detail, usually showing miles per liter. Simple math shows true figures of 40 to 60 plus highway, 30 plus in town, per gallon. As it should with properly taxed, for all impacts including environmental, fuel. If fiat brings this economy here we need not worry if they will sell. Now to remove the trucks and suvs which truly help cause the crashes that kill. Larry from springfield.
Thanks for the post. I really enjoy starting my day with one of your updates. Your insights into faraway cultures (what you are seeing, what people are eating, what people are saying, etc.) helps me cope with my day’s “travels” – that are unfortunately restricted to walking amongsts drab office cubes.
What happened to sharp eyes? Surely Judy doesn’t want to eat fried brian? The supply would be limited in any case. Just having a little fun.
I try and try to eat brains, but have to hide them in a taco and then not look as I eat. But the boar. I have hunted many a California boar and enjoy the rich gamey taste.
rick – thanks for taking a picture with me, my wife, and my daughter at that restaurant in lucca. you should’ve told us that the food was lousy (which is why you only got drinks there) :) anyway, we love your show and my wife has never been more starstruck. -daniel
I had cinghiale (wild boar) at Trattoria Ciribiri in San Gimignano. It was delicious. The restaurant had a great sign outside. It said: “Open No Stop.” Their version of open 24 hours. Also had cavallo (horse)in Verona. It was served with polenta. Again, delicious. With regard to brains, I had an uncle who came from the Piedmonte area of Italy. He made suffrita (sp?) — cow’s brains with sauce and some other secret ingredients. I was just a child at the time and the whole idea turned me off. Now, not so much. Always good to read your posts, Rick. I’ve been to Italy several times, and each time I find something new to love. I especially love the people. Mostly they seem content. Muricans could use some of that.
Rick, thanks for your weekly Obama update.
Another great post Rick. Having left a daughter to her German love, later husband, when we returned from Germany in 1986 we have two teenage grandaughters who grew up with Mom’s English and Dad’s German. All four speak both languages well. The girls have always been ahead of their schoolmates in English classes but get kidded about their “American accents”.
I have been following your travels via TV throught the years and can’t let my father go to Europe without sending him one of your DVD’s or forwarding him one of your email updates. We last visited Italy together in 1997. Much to my surprise, he emailed me telling me they were fortunate enough to sit near you and share conversation with you over dinner in San Gimignano earlier this month. They have returned and promised a picture to prove it. You are truly one of my favorite people to watch and I hope to someday have the same opportunity to meet you. Thank you for sharing your stories and adventures, keep them coming.
Rick, We were the family in Florence a few weeks ago in May, all 8 of us, on a street corner looking at a map trying to locate the Accademia Delle Arte. All of a sudden a surprisingly tall guy with a backpack walks up to us and says to his companion, “What map are they looking at? Lonely Planet, that’s a good one. Not as good as mine.” It was you! Before I could even get out a hey how are you, you were on your way. I was hoping to get a photo of all of us with you. Oh well, it’s made for a great story. Too bad we didn’t get the proof. PS – We used your guidebook too and really liked it.