Enjoying a dinner in one of my favorite Roman restaurants, I struck up a conversation with the couple at the next table, and eventually joined them. (It turned out they were Robert and Ina Caro; Robert is a two-time Pulitzer Prize-winning author for books on the Washington, DC power scene.) We were talking about how, in several of our favorite restaurants, the namesake owners eventually end up just shuffling around grating Parmesan cheese on their customers’ pasta. The restaurant is their life, their meaning, their persona, and it likely takes a toll on their family lives. As they grow older they really know nothing else.
We were talking about dessert with a man at a nearby table. I said, “For me, it’s cheese and a little more good red wine.” He told of how his grandfather always said, in local dialect, “La boca l’è minga straca se la spuza de vaca”— “the mouth cannot be finished until it smells of cows.” To the rustic foodie two generations ago, you must finish the meal with cheese.
The Caros were charming conversationalists and a joy to spend an evening with. I poured some of their water into my glass and was stunned at my first sip. The conversation was so stimulating, I just assumed they would be drinking their water frizzante(sparkling). I didn’t realize I was a snob about choice of water.
(By admitting to my bigotry in this area, I don’t mean to pre-empt my resident hecklers. Heckling is what makes London’s Speakers Corner so fun. And this blog is the Speakers’ Corner of my dreams.)
The Caros knew Paris very well but were in Rome for their first time. Ina described her first time in Rome like being well read and suddenly finding a great new author. I thought she was right (and that I should read more). I recalled the famous quote: “Living life without traveling is like having a great book and never turning the page.” Then I flipped it around: “Living life without reading is like having a passport but never using it.”
Either way, la vita è bella. Embrace it.
Rick, I prefer the frizzante but only cold (no ice) never warm. Does that make me a snob or just a stupid American who does not understand the proper way to drink it. LOL. Cheese after dinner, always like it when I have it but hardly ever have it. Adding to my trip planning notes to have cheese in Rome after dinner.
Nice! Let’s see if the hecklers come to heckle about water! :D
When visiting some friends in Switzerland, they told me they didn’t understand Americans wanting still water because they didn’t think it should be used for anything other than washing dishes and showering.
Living life without traveling is like having a great book and never turning the page I love this quote and would like to know the origin. Who said it?
Rick, what I really want to know is what is your favorite restaurant in Rome? Another frizzante snob
As an old country boy, we definately tried to keep the “taste of cow” out of our mouths. But, every once in a while, while milking old Rose, she would put her foot in the milk pail anyway. The cats liked cow in their mouths though and got quite good at catching squirts aimed at their head.
Rick, you forgot to give credit to Ina Caro for her book, The Road from the Past: Traveling through History in France. Check it out!
Americans are not used to good cheeses. We eat mostly underaged cheap cheeses. My Italian father-in-law would say, “our cheeses tastes like soap.” He’s right. A well aged Italian cheese has as much flavor as a good red wine. I guess this is why Italians like cheese after dinner. Americans cannot relate to your story about Italian cheese after dinner, just as they cannot relate to what gelato really tastes like say at Giolitti’s in Rome. I think all Americans should travel to Rome at least once, just to see what they’re missing.
Go to Whole foods for some decent cheese. BUT you have to pick it up and smell it! I can’t believe all the people I see never asking for a taste or at least sniffing the good stuff. Like sheep they go through life thinking Sargento is all there is.
Rick!!! You met the author of “The Power Broker”? That is too awesome!! The Caros are impressive people; not only is Ina an accomplished scholar, she has the only eyes Robert trusts when it come to research.
Rick; one wonders what is up with your life, any hints of things to come? perhaps a run for office?
I think the quote is a paraphrase of St Augustine.
I’ve seen (and used) the quote as “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” by St. Augustine, but I haven’t seen that authenticated. Count me in for still water with just a little ice (too much ice takes up too much room in the glass), and definitely a vote for a cheese course. I grew up in England, and the cheese course was one of the things I missed when I moved to the US. Of course, now I can buy good cheese (at high prices) at Whole Foods, and I’m lucky enough to have a genuine French baker just down the road who also sells fabulous French blue cheese – and there’s a wine merchant a couple of doors down! But I made sure to eat plenty of cheese on my recent trip to France. And I totally agree about Ina Caro’s lovely book.
It seems to be attributed to St. Augustine. See: http://thinkexist.com/quotation/the_world_is_a_book-and_those_who_do_not_travel/219272.html. For a list of places see here: http://search.live.com/results.aspx?q=%22the+world+is+a+book%22%2C+Augustine&form=MS8TDF&pc=MS8TDF&src=IE-SearchBox
Well of all the places that I have been my favorite will always be Rome. My husband and I cannot imagine saying “this will be our last time in Rome”, I think we will always go back until we are too old to travel anymore.
I’m new to this blog; however, we Americans eat alot of cheddar. This is not a bland cheese – does anyone know where it originated? stevie
I have been told that most people on their death beds in our country, the United States, (America encompasses Canada, U.S. Mexico, Central America and South America.)do not regret that they didn’t see the Eiffel Tower (not that it is insignificant)but that they didn’t eat more ice cream. Stevie
I traveled to Rome this weekend via the movie Demons and Angels,,they did a nice job filming the city, it brought back memories of the majestic city…great movie to escape to Rome with..enjoy
we Americans eat a lot of cheddar…does anyone know where it originated? Cheddar, England. Where there’s a rather touristy gorge and caves. See also en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheddar_cheese kmwilhelm@ekit.com Kathy_C NULL 2009-05-17 16:20:00 24.136.231.107 1 NULL NULL
10257 348 Re: Notre Dame’s honoring President Obama Appearing on FOX News:“Certainly NARAL or Planned Parenthood would never invite Benedict XVI, much less extend an award to him.†– Bishop Samuel Aquila of Fargo, ND I have no problem with Obama speaking on the campus [but] I do have a problem giving him [this] honor,” said Bill Donohue, president of the Catholic League. Rick, you’ve missed the point of the protest. Shame on you for not being better informed.
I was in Rome last week! Now. I’m back in San Antonio, TX. I’m looking forward to read more of your travel entries. By the way, I downloaded your free Rome audio guide before I left and let me tell you — it saved me some $$$. I didn’t have to pay for any tour guides. Thank you!!!
Actually, we’re making some really good cheeses here in Wisconsin these days. I love the imports too, but some of the smelliest cheese ever–Limberger–is made in Monroe Wisconsin! There other small cheesemakers that are developing some terrific local cheeses. Check out this map of WI cheese factories! http://www.siuc.edu/~habel/fun/wicheesemap.html
For some (many?), the fine food and drinks (coffee, beer, and wine) comprise a significant part of their European travel experience. In fact, somtimes the food (e.g., a fantastic meal at a highly recommended restaurant) IS the destination of the day and, after a trip, the memorable meals eaten are as fondly recalled as the great art or sites viewed.
Also, as a scientist-educator-Europhile and a regular reader of Rick’s blog, I feel compelled to chime in on occasion in order to set the record straight. Regarding the above comment about ‘standard American dairy products’, ALL milk has hormones in it, whether bGH (bovine growth hormone) has been administered to the cow or not. In addition, one cannot detect differences in hormone levels in non-bGH vs. bGH-milk. The science is solid on this aspect (do a search on the National Library of Medicine’s PUBMED site if you don’t belive me). In addition, milk with detectible antibiotic residues would not be permitted reach your grocery store due to FDA regulations.
I understand Ina Caro is working on her second book. The first was excellent, entitled The Road from the Past: Travelling Through History in France (published 1994).
WHAT!!!! Do you mean to tell me the stuff in the green can is not good cheese????? Oh my – This is terrible!!!
Ina Caro is also a talented author in her own right and I highly recommend her “The Road From the Past: Travelling Through History in France”
You should also have mentioned that Ina Caro is the author of a wonderful book on France entitled, “The Road From The Past, Traveling Through History in France.” A Great read and step up from guidebooks for travels in France.
Wow – how lucky to meet the Caros – talk about Serendipity! I’ve read her book on French History/Travel, that others have mentioned. Re: frizzante water – halfway through our trip in Italy, I realized I was paying the same for “still” water, so switched to frizzante – I felt so “European”!