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Sleeping on the train from Salerno to the Cinque Terre, I couldn’t stop thinking what a great job I’ve got: I was on a natural high after enjoying a wonderful guided tour of the Greek ruins at Paestum (which will be hugely helpful in next year’s edition of my Italy guidebook), and I was about to wake up on my favorite stretch of Mediterranean coastline.
One of the joys of running my own company is that I get to choose my research chores each year. This year (along with my TV production work) I get to update the guidebook chapters on all of Portugal (except the Algarve), Naples/Sorrento/Amalfi Coast, Cinque Terre, Munich/Bavaria/Tirol, Paris, Amsterdam/Haarlem, Brussels, Bruges, Edinburgh, York, Bath, and London.
While the Cinque Terre is a huge favorite for my staff, no one wants to update the Cinque Terre guidebook chapter because the people here are so aggressive about staying in, getting in, or getting back in to the book. Every two years I grab the assignment, and it’s about my favorite four days of the season.
And with each visit, I meet with the director of the Cinque Terre National Park, a man nicknamed “the Pharaoh” for his grandiose vision and heavy-handed effectiveness. When I refer to him in passing by his nickname to people of the region, they do a double-take as if they never expected to hear this insider’s term uttered by a foreign tourist.
After hiking to the top of Riomaggiore, I sat in the Pharaoh’s grandiose office. It’s littered with plans for park development, awards, and tourist promotion gadgets. He surveys me and I survey him, as we each matter to the other’s work. I explain to him that the region would enjoy more overnight visits (to the profit of struggling local seniors and the benefit of euro-stretching visitors) if the chaotic apartments-for-rent business were coordinated by village clearinghouses. He tells me of a school in the village of Corniglia that’s being renovated to house a big new hostel for 2009. I compliment the wonderful manager of the Manarola hostel. I complain of the ridiculous fines train conductors levy on innocent tourists who board a Cinque Terre train not knowing to sign their park transit passes first.
The Pharaoh takes me out onto his big balcony, and with a sweep of his hand, we survey his domain. Seeing a tourist lugging a backpack across the way, I shame him into promising that next year the park will provide a place for day-trippers to check bags for a more comfortable visit.
A big question for the region is the future of the Cinque Terre’s quirky nude Guvano Beach. The Pharaoh, like many locals, considers Guvano an embarrassment for the region. He said the park has the legal right of first refusal for the purchase of any land that goes up for sale, and they hope to buy the beach and end the nudity in 2009. Hiking the trail from Riomaggiore to the next town, I’m nagged by the difficulty I have believing that my son could have hiked the entire trail from town #1 to town #5 in just over an hour and a half (as he claims, and I recount in my book). With several hikers I meet making the case that this would need to be done at a steady run without any other hikers congesting the trail, I decide to take out the reference. But Andy insists it’s true.
With this visit, I reinstate my sentimental first-ever recommended pension in the region — Pension Sorriso. I stayed here on my first visit in the mid-1970s. It was one of the very few places to sleep back before tourism hit the region. I’ll never forget the place, run by a family of huge people who seemed to spin and fill the kitchen like gears spin and fill an old-fashioned wristwatch. Dinners were a beggar’s banquet of fresh fish and cheap white wine.
For 15 years, Pension Sorriso was the home of our tours in the Cinque Terre. Then, after a too-honest write-up in my guidebook, Sr. Sorriso’s wife decided to hate me. She hated me with a fiery venom like no one else in Europe hated me. In my favorite little magic wonderland in Europe, their place was a 20-meter stretch of lane I dreaded passing. We took our tour business elsewhere, and she demanded to have her hotel’s listing deleted from my guidebook.
Only after Sr. Sorriso died did I learn that for 20 years I was calling him Sorriso, when that word (which means “smile”) was simply the name of his hotel. For two decades I greeted him with a name that only I called him…and he just smiled.
Now their children — who are so cool they remind me of Sonny and Cher — run the hotel. I drop in (making sure I won’t encounter their mom) and we click. We share some old stories, make some agreements for how they’d welcome my readers, and bam — I list 19 more good budget rooms in my book ($125 to $155 per double with breakfast, www.pensionesorriso.com).
That night I enjoy Miky’s, my favorite Cinque Terre restaurant in Monterosso, and the town doctor drops by to meet me. He’s beloved for happily hopping on his one-speed bike — with a virtual doctor’s clinic in his bag — and making house calls. He suggests I make a warning to tourists that freak waves kill. (In 2007, an American woman was swept from the top of a rocky breakwater to her death by one such wave.) I normally resist filling my guidebooks with motherly advice: be careful on the breakwater; don’t be on the trails after dark; don’t trust strangers; and so on. But this tip goes in.
After one of the best dinners of my trip and a quick blitz of the nightspots in Monterosso, I stroll back along the harborfront promenade to my hotel. There’s one soul still out. It’s Miky, the owner/chef of Miky’s. Still wearing his little white chef’s hat, he’s enjoying a cigarette and sipping a White Russian. Both of us are capping an exhausting yet gratifying day of work.
Thank you for posting on Cinque again. Your information about that region was so precious to our Italy trip. If you are in Manarola, check out this new up-to-date apartment. Stayed there in Sept 2007. Reasonable price since about 6 can stay in the apartment. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g187819-d666561-Reviews-Mediterraneo_1_2-Manarola_Cinque_Terre_Italian_Riviera.html
I used your book last year when I went to the Cinque Terre and I have to point out something that was confusing about your book. We were taking a train from Genova to Riomaggiore and it sounded like your book said to take the train from Genova and get off at Monterossa since the Cinque Terre is only served by local trains. I found this not to be true. The woman that we were talking to on the train was also going to Riomagiorre and she said that she was staying on the train after Monterossa and was going directly to Riomagiore. My friend and I had to get off the train since we bought our tickets based on your book which made it sound as if we had to then buy another ticket for a local train. We later found out that she was right and we were wrong. Oh well, it’s not so bad to spend an extra hour waiting at Monterosso for a train!. Other than that your books have been a GREAT help. THANKS!!
We stopped to snap some photos, and saw what looked like several trailers parked on a little point of land, sticking out into the Mare (Sea) Ligure. So up and up we went, then down and down and around we went, and sure enough there were a dozen trailers parked right under the “No Camping†sign, so we joined them in our RV. We bought train tickets to see all five of the Cinque Terre, then rode the train for 15 minutes to Riomaggiore the southern most of these towns. This town is in two parts, with a steep, high hill dividing the town. An English speaking gentleman, Giovanni, was tending the garden in front of his home. He told us he was born here, and rides the train for 10 minutes to get to La Spezia, where he works. Giovanni parks his car in a parking lot across the next hill, high above town, but doesn’t use the car very often. A 15 minute walk along a picturesque, curious, narrow path, a niche hewn out of the rocky cliff and overhanging the Mare (Sea) Ligure, brought us from Riomaggiore to the next town to the north, Manorola. This trodden path is called the Via dell’Amore, or “Road of Love.†I had high hopes both times we were here, but we just walked. We met a young couple who were doctors. They had lived in New York City, London, and now Milano, but they prefer New York City. How can anyone prefer New York City over London, Milano, or anywhere else in the world? A little California prejudice, perhaps.
It is postings like this that keep me coming back in spite of the left wing political bias. Rick, this is what you do best, and no one else comes close. The country is full of liberal op-ed writers, but no one does European travel quite like you. The Sr. Sorriso’s wife story is priceless. Thanks for your insight.
Re: Rating the pension…at least you arent the Michelin guy who has to bestow or forcibly remove stars from restaurants in their Guide. I’ll bet for those folks there are a lot of “do not dine” zones where some jilted chef lays in wait !
We wanted to dine at Miky’s when we visited Cinque Terre in 2005. Unfortunately, even though we arrived just before opening time, there was no way to get seated without a reservation until much later in the evening (I believe Rick’s book and even our hotel reception said reservations weren’t necessary). The place was, however, mobbed with Rick Steves’ fans – everybody had their guidebook sitting on the table (sometimes I wish people would put it in their bag or slip on a sleeve on the cover so it’s not so obvious). We ended up eating at another place nearby, which was good – I don’t recall having a bad meal in Italy. It was late September, cloudy, and cooler than normal (in the 60s), so this situation was unexpected. We stayed at Hotel Palme in Monterosso for 2 nights, since that was the only thing we were able to book in advance. It was OK, nothing particularly special – a little pricey compared to other hotels we had visited in Italy. We hiked the 5 towns, but weren’t able to go between #3 and #4, due to a rock slide. Nevertheless, Cinque Terre was enjoyable and we have some beautiful pictures. Probably would have been even nicer if the weather was warmer.
I was there in early June this year, I suggest you warn your readers to carefully count their change while at the counter. Fresh off the train after traveling from the US I saw the gelato stand right across the corner from Miky’s. A gelato sure sounded good!! Went for 2 scoops, even ordered in my tourist italian and handed the girl behind the counter a 5E bill; she smiled, said “thank you” and handed back a few coins. Something seemed wrong but I was too bleary from 20 hours of traveling (flight to Florence, 3 hours of train to Monterosso) to really think. After I got to the hotel I looked at my change and discovered I had 2 50-cent pieces and a 20-cent piece; a cone that should have been less than 2E ended up costing twice that. 2 days later the friend I was travelling with got shorted change at a different store. Sure they could have been “mistakes” but its funny how the mistakes are almost always in the house’s favor.
Everytime I read one of Rick’s posts about the Cinque Terre, it moves further up my ‘must-see’ list. Mike–I’m sorry you got shortchanged but your story reminds me of an amusing experience I had at the Colosseum gift shop. I handed the clerk a 10E bill and was waiting for my change. She got slightly distracted I think by a co-worker and rather than hand me the change, handed me back the same 10E bill I had just given her! I did give it to her again and get the correct change, but after all the scam warnings the whole thing made me laugh. (And my verification word for this post is ‘goofs’)
Joe’s comment was dead on. Sometimes I feel like Rick is two different guys in my head. If someone were to say something negative about his travel books, shows, podcasts, etc, etc from the travel media empire I would defend him with passion. My wife and I used his book on our Italy trip (including Cinque Terre) in Nov and had the time of our life. He is so good at mixing the travel essentials with recommendations, history and cultural insights for the average traveler. I feel like his media really helps Americans understand European culture. Then I read his politically inspired blogs and it feels so different. It’s so polarizing. I feel like I’m reading the weekly liberal talking points. I guess it keeps me interested even if a little disappointed.
This post brings back very recent memories! We were in the Cinque Terre one month ago, achieving a travel goal we have had for years, thanks to you, Rick. We loved the views along the trails between Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso; the sound of the surf and smell of the sea on the trail between Manarola and Corniglia; the taste of fresh-baked focaccia with pesto or olives from the small “cat†bakery in Corniglia; the taste of sweet cinnamon or nocciola gelato from the shop on the harbor in Vernazza; the smell of roses along the paths; the sound of the rushing stream under the road in Manarola; the colors of umbrellas and rain ponchos along the Via del Amore; and even the sound of suitcases wheeled along on cobblestones that greeted us each morning as tourists headed down to the train. We chose quiet Manarola as our base and enjoyed it very much. We recommend climbing up above the playground and cemetery for a walk among the terraced gardens—lovely views and an up-close look at the gardens. The path comes out up near the hostel and church.
Jeff and Jim–It’s too bad that Rick’s political leanings box your ears. However, Rick’s opinions reflect European sentiment, just has his writings about history, art, culture, and cuisine do. Much as you’d like to extract politics from Europe (or from Rick), it doesn’t work. You have to take Europe–and Rick–as a package deal. Europeans have different ways of looking at things. Trying to non-judgmentally understand these differences is the joy of travel. I find it insulting (classic “Ugly American”) to say, “I love the musuems and wines in France, but I don’t like French people because they don’t back George W. Bush.” You can’t (or shouldn’t) visit Europe in a political vacuum. The same goes for Rick’s writings. Instead of raising your hackles, see it as an opportunity to learn something you hadn’t considered before. Personally, I love to hear Rick’s political views–even when I disagree with him. I find it refreshing that Rick’s take flies in the face of the sanitized message of America’s mainstream media.
Well Jon, since I am the only Jim who has posted here, I guess you mean me. And if that is true, you are wrong. I have never complained about European politics, or anyones opinion of those systems. I have traveled extensively, including multiple times in several East European countries while the Berlin Wall still stood. I was never bashful to make my point, but I insist that a country consists of a Culture and a Border, and Government is an important portion of a culture. It is my opinion that we have no business in Iraq, trying to get them to change their Government. That is their business, not ours. My comments on anyone’s previous comment on our Government, is my right to do. I don’t care what anyone thinks or says about our government, I care when they try to change it from what I think it should be. Not from what it is, from what I want it to be. The reason I travel is to see how other people live and work, and how their system works. Our names are similar, our opinions … … …!
Great story. Happy travels.
Rick, Thank goodness you are revisiting the Cinque Terra section. We hiked the trails this past April and could not believe how hard the trail between Monterossa and Vernazza where. It took us about 4-5 hours just for that one. After that we rode the train and did smaller trails. I really felt that a lot of info on this section of Italy were not really accurate. We did have a fabulous time and loved it there. But I hope you can correct a few things now. Judy
Hi Rick: We spent 7 nights in Cinque Terre this month! Loved it. Three nights in Riomaggiore and 4 in Vernazza (my favourite). Your book was filled with information that enhanced our adventures, ensured we were eating great food (including lots of gelato) and that we maintained our spirit of awe and adventure. I’m a 60 year old fat lady with two artificial knees, which were ‘smokin’ with the hills and hikes and steps and up and down on the trains! Worth every minute. We were happily surrounded by Italians on June 2 which is a bank holiday! Who knew locals love Cinque Terre too!? (We also experienced a 24 hour train strike!) Couldn’t find a place to stay (thanks to the bank holiday)…but Nicolina (listed in your book)had a vacancy in one of those “funky” apartments you mention. Right above the drug store in Vernazza. WE LOVED IT! Thanks Rick. And my liberal Canadian views jive with yours! Cheers!
Loved your post Merrilee! Would love to hear more travel experiences from you!
I had to laugh at your comments about all the beer being the same price but needing to search out the best ones. How true! I started my search for good beers while on a summer school break in in 1971, just after I finished my involuntary u.s. army duty. It is now some 36 – 37 years later and I still search out the best beers, though I now do it in winter due to my job. What a life! btw, PLEASE keep IN your political opinions. I like a well-rounded dose of “Rick”…and my travel reading.
Spent another wonderful week (third in 8 months) in Cinque Terre over Easter. Manuel’s Guest House’s manager, Lorenzo moved down to his parents house so we could have a room. His Dad took us on a great hike on our last day….having us pick wild asparagus, treated us to expresso, and had a friendly local dog join us for part of the way. Papa Grasso didn’t speak much English and we spoke less Italian…when the conversation got stuck he would pull out his dictionary and point to the word…so sweet. We tried Miky’s special baked pasta…HEAVENLY. The people of the Cinque Terre made us feel like old friends.
We love the Cinque Terre and would likely have never found the area if it weren’t for Rick Steves. I was puzzled at the fact that the Pensione Sorisso was not in your 2007 book. We stayed there and found it wonderful. It’s so good to hear the explanation and know that it will be included next time. On another note, I just finished your Europe 101 book and know I’ll be going back many times. My favorite part was the discussion of “I know what I like” and the relationship with increased “knowing” expanding our “liking.” You are so much more than a travel writer and tour guide, but offer wisdom, humor, and insight that adds to my life in so many ways.
I stayed in the Cinque Terre last spring, at the Albergo Barbara in Vernazza. Loved the Albergo Barbara. Rick isn’t kidding when he says “prepare to hike up a bunch of steps,” or words to that effect; it was like climbing the Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona. And I conked my head like Gandalf, often and well, against the beams in the top-floor room I had. But the view! Beautiful. Very friendly and warmly welcoming owners, too. As to the Cinque Terre, at least for that corner of it, there was a little too much “niente” in the Dolce Far Niente (“sweetness of doing nothing”) there. The hike up the trail was absolutely never to be forgotten, it instantly put me in a good mood, just being up there. In fact, it puts me in a good mood just to think of it now. It was cute to watch the fishermen toss fish to the local kitty, who then laid into them as if he meant business, though the fish were half his size. I would say the Cinque Terre are worth a night or maybe two, but not more, unless you’re sequestering yourself to write or paint, or just to decompress and really and truly do nothing. I got a better feeling from doing nothing in the Italian Lake District, for some reason. I found Positano or Amalfi more interesting, too, although a lot of people would say those are too “boutiqued up.” A beautiful place, but it would bother me to spend more than a couple of days there. Just my own take, of course, so if anyone differs–enjoy!
I miss the “old” Cinque Terre when you could walk the trails for free, sleep and drink at “Mama Rosa’s” for practically nothing, and never saw a conductor on the local trains. Rick has introduced this wonderful area to the world, but I don’t know if I should cheer or curse him … BUT – it was because of him I found this area in the late 80’s …
Tom, I understand how you feel….I got the same story from Kate….who went there because of Rick’s book….married a local…but recently moved out of the town of Monterosso to the countryside because of the all the “tourists”. Forgive us for trespassing….and I mean that sincerely. I find the entire area a most wonderful adventure. The hiking is so mellow and relaxing. (I live in the NH mountains) I find the Cinque Terre friendly, beautiful, and easy to navigate; so much so that I have a hard time staying away. I promise to tread lightly when I am there. Sue
Dear Rick, I was forwarded this link to the CT thread by my sister. We just returned this week from there and having the President honor us for my dear daughter Sarah Scherer who was the woman who lost her life there last Sept. 27. while vacationing with her husband Christopher. I fell in love with this land after seeing a video done by you over 10 years ago and couldn’t wait to go someday, but she got there before me and was taking photos with Chris when she was hit by a rogue wave. She suffered massive head injuried. Chris also was taken out by a wave trying to save her, but was thrown back to the rocks. He was cared for and also us in the CT and also in Le Spezia. The president and his staff took wonderful care of us-we were honored like royalty. I have included a link for you and anyone who would like to see a portion of the ceremony-which is in Italian. I am also including her myspace link and here is my email. We have connected with many people who knew part of it or helped in someway. There was a woman and her daughter from NY who helped my son in law that day and we have been trying to locate them to thank them. So many people who have become our family-here and also in Italy. http://www.myspace.com/yugabanuch We have been so blessed to visit this land and be the guests of the president Franco-who wrote the poem that is located at the place Sarah died right outside Manarola. We met some of the people who were part of trying to get her body out of the dangerous waters-the coast guard. We were escorted by Paula-who works with the park offices in Manarola and Riomaggoire. My sister, my husband and aunt returned with my son in law to this land again and left with rich memories to help ease the pain of this loss. She was my only daughter and loved adventure. thank you for your work Go to this link, http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/ then scroll down to “In ricordo di Sarah Scherer” and click on the video button.
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Planning to visit Italy for the first time in Oct. We (2 seniors, seventy +, good walkers)want to visit either Cinque Terre or Amalfi Coast. Any recommendations? Is one less “touristy” than the other? One more beautiful than the other?
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