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| Girls flirt with passing motorcyclists in Naples’ Spaccanapoli District. Enlarge photo |
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| Garbage takes up valuable parking real estate. Enlarge photo |
All my life, Naples has been the symbol of chaos, stress, and culture shock for European travel. I remember my first visit (as a wide-eyed 18-year-old). Gene and I stepped off the train into the same vast Piazza Garibaldi that 35 years later still strikes everyone who visits as a big paved hellhole. On that first visit, a man in a white surgeon’s gown approached me and said, “Please…we need blood for a dying baby.” Gene and I made a U-turn, stepped back into the station, and made a beeline for Greece.
Now I’m flying here from Iran (after a quick change in Paris). And, coming from Tehran, Naples is a model of order and sanity.
But coming from anywhere else in Europe, Naples remains uniquely thrilling. One of my favorite sightseeing experiences anywhere in Italy is simply wandering the streets of Naples. I spent an hour and probably a hundred photos just observing the teens on motorcycles in the vertical neighborhoods of the Spaccanapoli district.
Every few steps, a couple of James Dean-cool guys lean against lampposts while three or four girls straddling the same motorbike would cruise by as if playing Neapolitan Idol.
Everyone who knew I was going to Naples seemed to be obsessed with the garbage strike. Minibus-sized mountains of garbage were parked on the curb every couple blocks. It’s easy to make a big newspaper stink about it, but locals seemed to just hold their noses and know that someday this little piece of Naples chaos, too, would be dealt with. I smelled nothing.
In the spirit of finding cheap eats near major sights for my guidebook readers, I walked behind the Archaeological Museum in Naples and met exuberant Pasquale — owner of the tiny Salumeria Pasquale Carrino. Rather than do the cheapskate “how much?” question, I just let fun-loving and flamboyant Pasquale make me his best sandwich. He turned making a sandwich into a show, and I watched, enthralled.
Demonstrating the freshness of his rolls as if squeezing the Charmin, laying a careful pavement of salami, bringing over the fluffy mozzarella ball as if it were a kidney transplant, slicing a tomato with rapid-fire machine precision, and then lovingly pitting the olives by hand and then hanging them like little green paintings on a tasty wall, he finished it all off with a celebratory drizzle of the best oil. Five euros (less than $8) and a smile later, I had my cheap lunch. Saying goodbye to Pasquale, I tried to explain to him that he’d be giving this sandwich show to lots of American visitors next year, and stepped outside to look for a suitable bench upon which to enjoy my lunch.
(Salumeria Pasquale Carrino is 100 yards from the Archeological Museum–as you leave take two rights and a left to Via Salvator Rosa 10, tel. 081-564-0889, closed Sun.)
We visited Naples in three different years, from 1970 to 1989. In “Innocents Abroad,†published in 1867, Mark Twain said “See Naples and die.†Well we didn’t die, but it was scary. === One Sunday morning we arrived in Naples, from Pompeii by train. As we walked on the main streets, we asked a man who was walking his dog, to confirm directions to the National Museum. He spoke enough English to warn us to be careful. Soon we heard a “beep, beep,†and a car pulled to the curb. The man had taken his dog home, and came to take us the remaining few blocks, he was that worried. We knew things were bad in Naples, but not this bad, or in his case, this good. === Naples has such a reputation, we were told not to drive through Naples, even on a Sunday morning. But we did. It was scary and fascinating, a paradox. We bought strawberries from children at a sidewalk stand — they appeared to be a caricature of street urchins, ready to star as the Bowery Boys, in a “Dead End Kids†movie. They seemed frightened, drew back and would not respond when we offered some candy and tried to be friendly with them. === One of the grimiest streets in Naples, Italy, was lined with tiny trees protected by a metal guard, plus a few small trees in concrete tubs. A tree looks so gorgeous in Paris, so melancholy in Naples. === Imagine this Neapolitan dichotomy — a very modern high-rise, glass-walled office building was surrounded on three sides by grimy, unkempt apartment buildings with balconies filled with laundry and the debris of living. Those office workers had an inalterable view of the poverty that seems to be so prevalent in parts of Naples. As the Neapolitans often jest, the laundry forever fluttering across the streets from balcony to balcony, is the flag of Naples.
I too went from Pompeii to Naples and did not have a great experience, I was robbed….Additionally I saw a man swatting a group of children with his newspaper in Rome (it appears they were trying to steal his wallet)….the crime rate in Italy is the highest in Europe and can be very scary…we left Italy after Naples….It amazes me how such an interesting country can have such a high crime rate….it can totally ruin a vacation…
Our experience in Naples did not sour us on the country of Italy. After 112 wonderful nights in 63 different places in our RV during eight trips to Italy, beautiful eItaly, we determined that Italy is crowded with beautiful, friendly, congenial people who welcome us, confuse us, charm us, disturb us, enrapture us, discombobulate us, and ensure that we have a fascinating vacation. === A man in Bologna told a story that someone from Germany drove his Mercedes to Naples, and parked near downtown. When he then reported his car had been stolen within a few minutes, his insurance company would not pay, and told him that, “Anyone should know that you don’t park that kind of car in Naples.†We heard that stolen cars are put in big trucks, and within hours will be out of the country. Seems that Russia, and other Eastern European countries are the destination. === Oh my, I used my two visits here, already!
Lunch in Naples sounds delicious. Happy Travels!
My wife and I are heading to Naples (as part of a longer time on the Amalfi coast) in September. It’ll be her first visit and my first in over 25 years. I used to visit there a lot in the late 70s while in the Navy. I was nearly robbed by a couple guys on a Vespa who tried to snatch my camera strap from around my neck in mid-day while on the way to the Cathedral. But I learned from this experience and protected my belongings after that. Following Rick’s, and others’ advice, using precautions you can be safe in most places. I think my wife will find Naples more of a culture shock than she thinks, and we’ll probably be staying outside of town while there just to have a bit more peace than we would while there. But it’s a city that you really do have to experience – but only by foot! Anyone who drives in Naples is crazy. One last note. While I was in the Navy back then I worked closely with a number of police and other law enforcement officials in Naples. One officer announced that he wouldn’t be seeing me next time I returned to Naples in a few weeks because his wife was pregnant and about to deliver. He announced that he was taking her to Rome to deliver since he didn’t want his child to grow up with the stigma of being a Neapolitan by birth!
I have seen much LITTER( in most countries) , however, those pictures take the cake. I find it hard to believe you smelled nothing, maybe it’s the wine your drinking..LOL..Besides the garbage strike, how is the litter situation in Italy? When I was there a few years ago, many areas had litter and just wondering if Italians have cleaned up their cities? As far as crime goes, a friend of mine was visiting Rome, holding her purse off her shoulder, someone cut off the straps and took off with her purse ( she learned a major lesson)-I highly recommend before traveling to a country, find out about its crime rate..its very easy to find out on the internet and may make you find ways to have safer travels…
Clever description of the Sandwich Maker. I don’t know if the guy is going to hate or love the publicity. Humberd, excellent posts!
Rick, just wanted to say you did a wonderful job bringing up your kids…I just read Jackie’s blog and cannot wait to read her adventures..you promised that you would put Andy’s adventures from Italy, Bulgaria and his Aegean Odyssey on line, like you I planned on some appetizers and a fine glass of wine to read his adventures….Happy travels to you, Jackie and family…
Those piles of garbage look like the same ones you seen NYC on garbage day. And garbage day does seem to happen whenever I’m in NYC. ; ) Nice to hear about Naples.
I did a day trip to Naples to visit the Archaeological Museum (much of it closed for much-needed renovation) in early April, and spent two nights there, staying across from the ferry port, in mid-May. The garbage problem was hardly noticeable in April, but was worse in May – I was told it got worse right after Berlusconi was elected and said he would fix it! You’d have to be crazy to drive there, and crossing the street reminded me of Saigon and Hanoi – you just have to walk out into the traffic and keep moving, but do it at a designated crossing. I thought the city had everything it needed to be a world-class destination, but both the streets and buildings need a good cleaning (nothing to do with the garbage). London felt really clean in contrast!
Ahh…I read your blog about Naples and it brings me back to my brief visit there in October 2006. I see nothing has changed. The garbage still piled up. My husband and I attempted to walk the streets in Naples only to quickly go back and get a taxi to take us to Pompeii. The 80 Euros or so (if I remember correctly, I could be mistaken, my husband paid) was worth every bit as we were nearly scammed in Naples (you know where they tell you they will give you a “good deal” on a brand new camera). We politely said no and left. Pompeii was worth seeing but I don’t forsee going back to Naples. I was so scared in our taxi ride from Pompeii back to Naples. They drive crazy. Far worse that being in Boston or New York. I do have fond memories. I am glad I visited but Naples is not a city I would choose to go back to when there is so much more to see in Europe, or in Italy for that matter (I loved Rome, Florence, Pisa, etc.)
Well, I was in Naples just a month ago on your tour, guided by the inimitable Heidi. And I can fairly say, Naples was my favorite place on that tour (although Pompeii comes a close 2nd for its sheer interest value). The Archeological Museum, of course, boggled. Also found myself in the inner sanctum of the National Library looking for some rare books. Could not find them (are locked away), but no one batted an eyelash at me walking anywhere, as they did not seem to be concerned with unreasonable security. I did not even speak 10 words of Italian (although Naples is the one place it would be most helpful, I thought.) The Italians are so practical-minded! For the rest, I did not venture too far from the center, but at least in that area, the streets hummed with something more real than any of the tourist destinations of the Amalfi coast, Matera, Vieste, or even venerable Roma. Was particularaly moved by the description of Naples in the 2nd World War from the sort of hyper guide Alex in the underground cistern tour. “Too many people” he said. The proximity to Vesuvius really hits home, as you look at it in the haze. Oh, and I was hit on the elbow by a passing car in one of those narrow, narrow streets. It just sort of grazed me, but the guy stopped after he realized, backed up, and was very solicitous. (I waved him off.) And courtesy of your tour, we went to a place with DEFINITELY the best pizza I’ve ever eaten, absolutely addictive. So, a little (temporary) garbage is a non-issue. And, by the way, the cruise ships have discovered Naples, too! (for better or worse)
We would never suggest that a visitor miss a visit to Pompeii, we’ve been there three times, but if time permits, visit Herculaneum, located between Naples and Pompeii, on the Naples side of Vesuvius. The oil billionaire, J. Paul Getty, built a museum Malibu, near Los Angeles. The Museum plan is based on the Villa dei Papiri, buried near Herculaneum by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, 79 AD. Sweetie and I visited the museum a dozen times at least, we visited Herculaneum twice. We were told in both Malibu and in Italy that we are the only visitors to both the Museum and Herculaneum, that they know of. To the west of Vesuvius, the town of Herculaneum was covered by a sea of mud from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, 79 AD. It solidified, eventually carbonized and became tufa-like (silica stone), almost impossible to excavate. Various items are better preserved than at Pompeii. Inside some well preserved buildings, food, cloth, rope, grain, rolls of papyrus, even loaves of bread and baskets of walnuts survived. When the eruption started, there had been time for some people to leave, but many died as they reached the outskirts of town. The path to the top of Vesuvius was rough bare black lava rock. We would have taken the chair lift, but it was out of order that day. It was cold, windy, and too foggy to see much of the advertised beautiful scenery. We picked up a large piece of lava, and the guard let us know it was OK to take it home with us.
Rick, good to see you back in Europe. I look forward to reading along. Granted, Naples is not a top desintation for me but after craving a bit of Europe for so long, even a taste of one of my least favorite European cities is delightful to the palate.
Went to school in Rome 77-78. Was embraced by the people and fell in love with Roma. While in school visited Naples twice. Pretty much happy to leave after being chased around by gangs of men both times. Going back to Rome next week. This time with my my son and husband . Need to go through Naples – my only goal is to get out of the train station as fast as I can by having a driver waiting on the platform and leave for Sorrento. My husband says I am obsessed with getting out of Naples – told him you just have to see it to believe it. Then again, mi piace roma.
You do not know Naples, unless you live here. I arrived in Naples 2 yrs ago, wide-eyed, enthusiastic about living the “Italian way of life” & totally open to getting to know a culture which is different (not better or worse) from what I know in the US. I am not a person who is put off by differences, but value the diversity found in our world. However, the diversity or as Rick calls it “little piece of Naples chaos, which is found here is beyond anything that should be accepted by a decent human being. Sadly, within 6 months of arriving in Naples, I developed an utter disrespect for Neapolitans & the Italian culture. The perpetual trash problem is merely a symptom of deeper rooted problems in this society. Naples is the “epicenter†for these deep seeded issues, but the entire country tolerates/condones a total lack of moral character and dignity. I have discovered greed is the most important motivator in Naples & Italy; causing a total disregard for others, the property of others & the environment. Stealing is a common practice, even from your neighbors. Our house has been broken into & the police said it was probably a neighbor. I know of 4 close friends who have been robbed on the highway. The Italians are also chronic litterers. They throw wrappers, bottles, cans, & cartons out their car windows to litter the streets/highways..this is not a lack of trash collection but a total disregard for others. Greed. The Italians do not recycle as they see no personal benefit from the effort. Greed. If you are in a line in a store/airport, be prepared for an Italian to simply walk up & get in front of you. Greed. The way Italians drive is simply a reflection of their obsession to get ahead of everyone else. Greed. I have traveled the world and have not seen another society with such a total lack of moral fiber. Sadly, I see no hope or “cure†for this pathetic culture. The deplorable quality of life in Naples is what the people of Naples tolerate and justly deserve.
Thank you so much for the suggestion. We leave for Italy in 6 weeks and Pasquale’s address is in our notes.(tucked into your 2008 guide) Thanks for helping all of us live life!
In my opinion, one of my favourite aspects of Italy is how each city/region has its own unique quirks. Is Naples a polluted city with its fair share of crime? Definitely! However, taking the time to absorb the difference in the culture makes it all worth it.
I am living in Naples presently. And I must admit, the experience the tourist enjoys, and the truth behind what is really going on here can only be understood by those who actually live here. Tourist don’t mind over paying for things, especially if they don’t know they’re overpaying. Take some advice from me, someone who is living here, take your train from Rome, get off in the Napoli train station, transfer to the circumvesuviana and go to Sorrento, Positano, and do day trips to Capri, Paestuem and Pompeii, although, I enjoyed Ercolano much more than i did Pompei, smaller, more to see, professionally preserved. What you don’t know about this place can help you, ignorance is blissful when you’re just popping through, however, if you plan on staying…you can email me with more direct questions.