Three Great Islands: Rhodes, Santorini, and Mykonos

I just wrapped up a shoot for a new show about three Greek islands in the Mediterranean: Rhodes, Santorini, and Mykonos. Here are a few highlights.

St. Paul's Bay on the island of Rhodes

St Paul’s Bay, Lindos

The whitewashed town of Lindos is the top side-trip on Rhodes — and the only place in the world where I’ve sunburned my penis. In the 1970s, it was a desolate hideaway, completely wild, and known as a place where backpackers enjoyed the freedom to do a little nude sunbathing. Today, it’s a sleepy little resort, and no one is risking such an intimate sunburn. (That said, just driving around these islands in an open Jeep at midday was brutal under the fierce sun. At one point, I felt like an Arab sheik, hiding under whatever shelter from the sun I could find.)

Rick hiding from the sun under a towel

Oia is every shutterbug’s favorite village on Santorini. It’s also a huge hit with Asian brides. It’s trendy in Asia for couples to fly to Santorini for romantic wedding portraits…months before their wedding. My crew and I must have seen 20 brides and grooms — none of them married yet — getting iconic, Greek Isles wedding shots done for their big day.

Best Santorini viewpoint

A wedding portrait with a view over Santorini

An engaged couple sweetly bumping heads looking out over Santorini

Paradise Beach, on Mykonos, may be the ultimate party beach of the Greek Isles. I spent time there as a student — and I think it’s been thumping ever since. While very youthful at night (and likely less welcoming), during the day I found it enjoyable for people of all ages.

Paradise Beach on Mykonos

Treasure Islands: Filming in the Mediterranean

My TV crew and I just spent two busy weeks on a Mediterranean cruise. While our primary goal was to shoot a one-hour documentary about how to cruise smartly, we also used our shore time to shoot a new episode about islands in the Mediterranean.

Our four days on Santorini, Mykonos, Rhodes, and Malta were filled with intensive filming. We were always among the first people off the ship and the last ones back on, 10 hours later. It is amazing how much you can accomplish during one day on shore (whether sightseeing or producing a TV show about that sightseeing) when you’re well organized.

I don’t know these islands very well (and I’d never even been to Malta) — so the filming experience was a bit different than usual. On each island, we would meet our local guide, show them my rough script, do a little scouting, consider the reality of our sail-away time, and then sit down and make a smart schedule to cover the sights. It was like a game: If we were smart, our guide was good, and the weather was clear, we could get what we needed. Fortunately, the weather was always good (they haven’t had rain since May) — and our guides were all excellent and excited about the project.

Reviewing footage on camera

A local guide would meet us at each port. They would bring their car literally onto the pier, in the shadow of our massive ship. (By the way, you can hire your own local guide with a private car for the cost of about four seats on one of the cruise line’s shore excursion bus tours).

Car pickup at cruise ship

At each port, we’d chart out our options, needs, OCs (the “on-camera” bits when I talk directly to the camera), and all the content I wanted to work into the script. With our time limits, this was an exhilarating challenge for me — kind of a speed-chess version of script writing.

Rick's notes on Santorini

My messy scribbling from Santorini.

 

We intended to make a show about all four of the islands we visited, but the shooting went so well — and there was so much we wanted to share — that I decided to feature just the three Aegean Islands (Santorini, Rhodes, and Mykonos) in this show and save Malta for a future project. (It’s always nice to have something new and exciting available for a TV pledge special.) This way, we can do each island justice while still sticking to our limit of 3,000 words for a half-hour script.

On each of the islands, we worked with a local guide who I really enjoyed. All of them make a living off cruise traffic and can be booked directly with ease: Nick Rhodes in Rhodes (request@rhodesprivatetours.com); Antonis Pothitos in Mykonos (info@delosguide.com); Dimitrios Nikolaidis in Santorini (info@oceanwavetours.com); and Amy Pace in Malta (pacee@vol.net.mt). Thanks Nick, Antonis, Dimitrios, and Amy for making us at feel home on each of your islands.

Guide Antonis Pothitos with Rick on Mykonos

Me and my Mykonos guide, Antonis Pothitos.

 

Flying with a View…and We Have a Winner!

Our Mykonos flight was on Air Berlin, a discount airline filled with Germans who fly two hours on a cheap flight from Munich directly to Mykonos for a nice break. That’s a handy setup for German sun-worshippers. From Munich, we enjoyed Lufthansa luxury over the Atlantic. While we no longer had our own stateroom with the wonderful little view balcony, I did manage to enjoy a little privacy and wonderful views out my window at 30,000 feet.

By the way — I lost one pound in two weeks of cruise gluttony. Using the stairs on board, eating plenty but in small portions, not going back for seconds, and lots of running around on shore and dancing after dinner enabled me to consume a lot of calories — yet burn off even more. Jason Ree correctly guessed my post-cruise weight at 211 pounds. Congratulations! We’ll be in touch to send you your autographed copy of Rick Steves’ Mediterranean Cruise Ports and the Mediterranean Mosaic DVD.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

The Sea in a Glass

Mykonos is famous for its sturdy windmills and its steady winds. Enjoying the harborfront scene with an ouzo — as the surf seems to inhabit our water glass — we get into the tempo of island life…at least until tomorrow morning, when we fly home.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Mykonos

These four photos are from Mykonos in Greece. Mykonos is the classic Greek-island stop and, along with Santorini, it’s the most touristy — and the island most impacted by cruise ships. Being on Mykonos reminded me how great the Greek islands are — even when they’re extremely touristy. What’s your favorite discovered Greek isle…and your favorite undiscovered one?

Tiny Mykonos is inundated by cruisers every day through the season. There's room for one ship at the pier (with a five-minute shuttle-bus ride into town), and while we were there, two more ships dropped their anchors. It's striking to realize that each of these boats has about 3,000 passengers, making the total number of cruisers in port the same as the population of the entire island — 9,000.
The sea, the wind, the birds, and the weather-beaten little whitewashed churches all combine to give Mykonos a vibrant allure.
Everyone gathers in the cafés and pubs that line the colorful stretch of houses called "Little Venice." We were there to nurse an ouzo or other drink, and to watch the sun set to the rhythm of the sloppy, slamming waves.
We jumped ship in Mykonos three days before our cruise was over. Leaving our beautiful cruise ship early (as I had to get back to my office), we experienced the whitewashed town of Mykonos with three cruise ships in port —and then after they left. Of course, the town was touristy either way, but I thoroughly enjoyed just strolling around nearly all day. Watching the Equinox power away, glinting on the horizon in the setting sun, was both sad and thought-provoking. As it eventually disappeared in the misty horizon, it hit us that our world had changed: no more elevators that arrived with the first two notes of the song "Feelings;" no more friends that found everything "amazzzzing" and "phenomenal;" no more small talk with our crew who brought good, warm vibes from Bali, Macedonia, Nicaragua, the Philippines, and about 60 other countries; and no more new port in a new country arriving effortlessly with each sunrise.