Our shooting is finished, our crew is home, and now we set about to editing all the footage into a one-hour TV special. Without telling you all the details of our show, here are some excerpts from the script that (especially if you can imagine the gorgeous footage we captured to illustrate these words) I hope will give you that Iranian sense of place:
[1 OC (on camera)] Hi, I’m Rick Steves — in what just might be the most surprising and fascinating land I’ve ever visited. We’re in Iran — here to learn, to understand, and to make some friends. Thanks for joining us.
[3 OC] Like most Americans, I know almost nothing about Iran. For me, this is a journey of discovery. What’s my hope? To enjoy a rich and fascinating culture, to get to know a nation that’s a leader in its corner of the world (and has been for 2,500 years), and to better understand the 70 million people who call this place home.
[9 with POVs from car, motorcycle taxi, pedestrian crossing] Traffic is notorious here. Drivers may seem crazy, but I was impressed by their expertise at keeping things moving. Many major streets actually intersect without the help of traffic lights. It’s different…but it works. Helmet laws are ignored. To get somewhere in a hurry, motorcycle taxis are a blessing. But wear your helmet. I’d rather leave a little paint on passing buses than a piece of scalp. Pedestrian fend for themselves. Crossing the street is dangerous. Locals say it’s like “going to Chechnya.”
[10 general chaos cut-aways] Just wandering the teeming streets here is fascinating and endlessly entertaining. And having survived Chechnya, I’m ready to celebrate with a refreshing local treat.
[11] This isn’t just any ice cream sandwich — it’s got rose water, saffron, and pistachios…a Persian specialty.
[14, face montage] Of Iran’s 70 million people, about two-thirds are under 30. People are mostly Persian. While there are minorities, we’ll focus on Persian population. The local ethnicity reflects the turmoil of its 2,500-year history. Local blood comes with Greek, Arab, Turkish, Mongol, Kurdish, and Azerbaijani influence. These are not Arabs, and they don’t speak Arabic. They are Persians and they speak Farsi. This is an important issue with the people of Iran — don’t call them Arabs. Each face seems to both tell a story and beam with warmth…especially when they see a film crew from the USA. We found that the easiest way to get a smile was to tell people where we’re from.
[16 OC] Another communication challenge: people here need to keep track of different calendars: Persian and Muslim (for local affairs), and Western (for dealing with the outside world). What’s the year? It depends: After Muhammad — about 1,390 years ago, or after Christ — two thousand and some years ago.
[23] Walking the streets of any city here, it’s clear that Iran is ruled by a theocracy. They may have a president, but the top cleric, a man called “the supreme leader,” has the ultimate authority. His picture — not the president’s — is everywhere. Religious offering boxes are on every street corner. The days when the shah’s men boasted Iranian mini-skirts were shorter than those in Paris are long gone.
[24] While the Islamic Republic of Iran is a theocracy rather than a democracy, I was surprised at the general mellowness of the atmosphere compared to other Muslim countries. I barely heard a call to prayer. Skylines aren’t broken by minarets. And — except for women’s dress codes and the lack of American products and businesses (because of the US embargo on Iran) — life on the streets here is much the same as in secular cities elsewhere.
[41 Isfahan] Isfahan, with 1.6 million, is a showcase of ancient Persian splendor. One of finest cities in Islam and famous for its dazzling blue-tiled domes and romantic bridges, the city is also just plain enjoyable. I’m not surprised that in Iran, this is the number one honeymoon destination. Isfahan is the cultural heart of Iran. School groups come from all over the country to appreciate their roots. Iranians come to connect with their heritage and celebrate it.
[43] The Chehel Sotoun Palace is a vivid reminder that Isfahan was the capital of Persia 400 years ago. With its reflecting pool, fine gardens, and portico of twenty delicate wooden columns, this gives you a sense of Persia’s 16th- and 17th-century Golden Age.
[44] Stepping inside, you are struck by the elegance and grace of Persia at its zenith. Tender dancers, flowing hair, dashing moustaches, and sumptuous riches, it comes across in these fine paintings.
[45] Frescoes in its grand hall tell how the shah maintained, defended, and expanded his empire. Here the shah and his troops quell a revolt against his rule by the Uzbekis. Then, defending his empire, the shah battles the Ottoman Turks — with their frightening new artillery — and manages to stop their eastward juggernaut. Waging what I would imagine was very high-powered diplomacy, the shah threw extravagant banquets in this very palace. Here Turkmans, of today’s Turkmenistan, were treated to wine, women, and song — with traditional Persian instruments. The dancing girls that worked up a thirst…and a refreshing watermelon. And in this banquet, the shah of Persia welcomed the emperor of India with a similar lavish banquet…and then, a century later, the shah invaded India anyway.
[53 cemetery] Whatever the root causes — faith or nationalism — the Sunni and Shiite Muslims share a bloody past. And the killing continues. Like cities throughout Iran, Isfahan has a cemetery dedicated to the 400,000 martyrs — as anyone who dies in a religious or national war is called — of the Iran/Iraq War. All the portraits and all the dates are from 1980 to 1989. Over two decades later, the cemetery is still very much alive with mourning loved ones. While the United States lives with the scars of Vietnam, the same generation of Iranians live with the scars of their war with Iraq — a war in which they, with one quarter our population, suffered six times the deaths.
[54] We meet two families sharing a meal at a grave site. They each lost a son in the war. They met here at the cemetery nearly twenty years ago and became friends. Their surviving children married. And they’ve shared memorial meals together here at the tombs ever since.
[88] Traveling through Iran teaches many things. This ancient land is a complex center of many civilizations through the ages. All along the way we met people: warm hospitality, spontaneous, gregarious, and curious. While they generally didn’t like our government, they seemed inclined to genuinely like Americans. Just like my country, there’s a dominant ethnic group and a dominant religion, with plenty of ethnic and religious diversity at the same time. And just like my country, there’s a not-always-graceful synthesis of influences: modern and traditional, liberal and conservative, secular and religious. Like in my hometown, people of great faith are threatened by people of no faith or a different faith. And, as with my neighbors, in the interest of being close to God, people of great faith treasure their time-honored rituals as a defense against the onslaught of modern materialistic society that threatens the moral fabric of their society.
[89 OC] I came to Iran a little nervous. I leave struck more by what we have in common than by our differences. I’ve overcome my fear by getting to know the Iranian people. Granted, there’s no easy solution to the problems confronting our two nations. But surely getting to know this culture is a step in the right direction. I’m Rick Steves. Happy travels…and as they say here, “May peace be upon us.”
Rick, that dessert sounds incredible. Unfortunate that you’re back already and can’t sample this, but there’s another dessert that I loved–one of the Turkish students brought it to a class with my Iranian professor, and the professor said “we have the same thing in Iran.” The Turkish name for it was “Pishmaniye,” and it was like a little sushi roll made of cotton candy, honey and pistachios instead of seaweed and rice. Great stuff! Maybe you can even find it here.
Rick, You have done a Good Work. Thank you for all of this. It doesn’t necessary make me feel like a truly *understand* Iranians but I have a greater appreciation for them. Go in peace, serve the Lord.
I think almost all of us would have agreed, before Rick’s trip to Iran, that the average Iranian is much like the average American. Just trying to live their life, take care of their family, worship their God, etc. The average (fill in the name of pretty much any country in history on the face of the planet) is/was not looking for trouble. Not in ancient Greece (well maybe Sparta) or Rome. Not in Middle Age Europe, or Imperial China. And not in present day California, Iran, Russia, or in Nazi-era Germany or Italy. Its not the people. Its the leaders…who incite and manipulate a compliant or indifferent population. We already knew that. I think Rick forces the similarity issue at times. I really don’t think that the US has a “dominant religion”. Does Rick mean Christianity? I don’t think that Roman Catholics like myself consider ourselves to be of the same religion as Southern Baptists or Jehovah’s Witnesses. And if Christianity is so dominant, why are religious displays banned in so many places? I consider myself to be a person of “great faith”, but in no way do I consider myself to be “threatenned by people of no faith or a different faith”. We get it. We have a lot in common with the Iranians, but we also have many differences. We are similar, but we are not alike. For example, I still have issues with the “Death to ——” thing. Don’t try to force the similarities.
I am sure that one of the purposes of the trip was to uncover similarities, because we are all too aware of the differences. It is by finding similarities that we can better come to understanding and resolve our differences. I don’t think that Rick or anyone on this blog thinks that this trip will bring the US and Iran together. It is just one of many steps. Do you really think that Rick doesn’t have issues with “Death to…? ” There are many things about Iran and other countries, including our own with which we can find issues. It’s when we look at the big picture and weigh out issues and similarities that we start to use judgement and build solutions.
It’s been really nice reading about your adventures so far, I cannot wait to see the new season. All the places you visited sound wonderful. I am also interested in reading Andy’s journals, especially want to read his views on Bulgaria and other trips he took around Europe, it’s wonderful to read your views as a seasoned traveler, however, there is something very special about a youth’s vision of travel….
It isn’t the culture that made people leave Iran. It was a revolution that brought in a repressive government and forced many into political exile as “enemies” of the new regime. It’s very difficult and dangerous to try to fight that from within. Even so, many do try to fight from within, and more try, from outside, to encourage other governments to help create change. Many moved to welcoming countries and became productive members of their new communities, learning new ways and becoming citizens. They hope and work for change in Iran, but are culturally and legally Americans with some roots in another, beloved culture.
There are MANY MANY sights of Iran that are not in the standard guides, such as Roodkhan Castle — http://www.treklens.com/gallery/Middle_East/Iran/photo422847.htm
Dear Rick, Thank you for your bravery and openness in going to Iran. We look forward to seeing the program this fall and also your new programs about Europe. Wish there were more people in the world like you who can make a difference in how Americans perceive other cultures and how we are perceived. Thanks for all that you do.
Please don’t make the common mistake of calling Persian Farsi. In English you refer to Persian language as Persian, when you speak in Persian you refer to Persian language as Farsi. To refer to Persian as Farsi when you speak English is like calling German language Deutsch or French as français when you speak English.
Dear Rick, I read your article and as an Iranian who lives in Iran, I found it really interesting. Seeing my country from a foreigner’s eyes sounds like pretty funny and it is informative at the same time. I was wondering if there is any link that I can watch your video. By the way, photos are really interesting and very meaningful!
Hi Rick, If you’re missing Iran since returning, the Iranian festival for Seattle is this month. Here’s a link for more info: http://www.iaca-seattle.org/. As a non-Christian, I agree that there is a dominant religion in the US. I think it’s hard for Christians to see, but having a company Christmas party (very few say holiday party, even if that’s company policy), egg hunts for Easter at the White House, or Christmas trees all over the place come “holiday season” is very Christian dominant. Even having New Year’s on January 1st is a Christian tradition. I definitely don’t mind – especially having married into a Christian family, it’s just a part of life here. However, I do think people should realize that there IS a religious context. Just because people don’t see these holidays as religious any more (perhaps because they’re Christian) doesn’t mean that they’re not the dominant religion’s holidays.
Dear Rick, reading about your trip to my country was interesting and on the other hand it made me think that the worldwide point of view on Iran is veering gradually. In my opinion such a kind of cultural and artistic movements such as yours, is accelarating this process. I, as an Irainian, gratitude and appreciate you. It would be my pleasure to have the opportunity to watch your film about Iran.
See Tehran for yourself: http://www.tehran24.com
I had been led to believe that people traveling on American passports needed to be on a tour and could not travel independently. I am wondering from your trip if this is no longer the case. If it is not the case I need to make a correction to a recent show. — Chris Christensen Amateur Traveler podcast – http://AmateurTraveler.com
Wow, reading about how many people they lost makes me wonder how Iranians view America’s role in deposing Sadaam. Gratitude? Or do the regular people view us as a threat like their government does? This country sounds like Vietnam, where the old people who fomented revolution are trying to keep all the young people from their natural attraction to the West. Good luck with that. I thought a very effective part of your script was #88. Made me think. And that’s what you want, right?
As for gratitude, Iranian people cannot easily forget America’s role in keeping Saddam in place over 80s and 90s. In 1984, Iraq was removed from State Department’s exclusion list (sponsors of terrorism) so that it could receive arms and stuff from American companies. And at the same time, the US govt knew that Iraq not only was still a sponsor of terrorism, but also actively working on its WMD plan, stockpiling its chemical arsenal (a big chunk of it came from the US) to be used against Iranian soldiers and also to slaughter Iraqi civilian Kurds. But probably, none of these were important at that time, because Iran had to be “contained” at all cost. So, what about thinking of America’s role in all those people losing their life on both sides of the Iran-Iraq border becasue of American govt “dual-containment” policy over 80s?
Nice job. “May peace be upon us.â€