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| In Iran, every city has a martyrs’ cemetery. Enlarge photo |
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| The tombs of the unknown soldiers give mothers whose sons were never found a place to grieve. Enlarge photo |
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| How has the loss of this boy’s father shaped his world view? Enlarge photo |
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| Could be anywhere: A mother and her son. Enlarge photo |
One of the most powerful experiences of our Iranian trip was a visit to a martyrs’ cemetery. War cemeteries always seem to come with a healthy dose of God — as if dying for God and country makes a soldier’s death more meaningful than just dying for country. That is certainly true at Iran’s many martyr cemeteries. While there are no solid figures, most estimates are that there were over a million casualties in the Iran-Iraq War. Each Iranian city has a vast martyrs’ cemetery.
Iran considers anyone who dies defending the country a martyr and a hero. At the Esfahan cemetery, tombs seemed to go on forever, and each one had a portrait of the martyr and flew a green-and-red Iranian flag. A steady wind blew on the day of our visit, which added a stirring quality to the scene. And the place was bustling with people — all mourning their lost loved ones as if it happened a year ago rather than twenty. The cemetery had a quiet dignity, and — while I felt a bit awkward at first (being part of an American crew with a big TV camera rolling) — people either ignored us or made us feel welcome here.
We met two families sharing a dinner on one tomb. (One of the fathers insisted we join them for a little food.) They met each other twenty years ago while visiting their sons — who were buried side by side. They became friends, their surviving children married, and they come regularly to share a meal on the tombs of their sons.
A few yards away, a long row of white tombs stretched into the distance, with only one figure interrupting the visual rhythm the receding tombs created. It was a mother cloaked in black sitting on her son’s tomb — a pyramid of maternal sorrow — praying.
Nearby was a different area — marble slabs without upright stones, flags, or photos. This zone had the greatest concentration of mothers. My friend explained these slabs marked bodies of unidentified heroes. Mothers whose sons were never found came here to mourn.
I left the cemetery sorting through a jumble of thoughts:
- How oceans of blood were shed by both sides in the Iran-Iraq War — a war of aggression waged by Saddam Hussein and Iraq against Iran.
- How this mighty and historic nation’s national museum of archeology in Tehran was so humble (when I asked about this, the curator explained that the art treasures of his country were scattered in museums everywhere but in Iran).
- How an Iranian woman had crossed the street to look me in the eye and tell me, “We are proud, we are united, and we are strong. When you go home, please tell the truth.”
- How this society — all the delightful little shops, young people with lofty career aspirations, gorgeous young adults with groomed eyebrows and perfect nose jobs, hope, progress, hard work, and gentle people I met over ten days in Iran — could so easily and quickly be turned into an Iraq-style hell of dysfunctional cities, torn-apart families, wailing mothers, newly empowered clerics, and radicalized people.
My visit to the cemetery drove home a feeling that had been percolating throughout my trip. There are many things that Americans justifiably find outrageous about the Iranian government — from denying the Holocaust and making threats against Israel; to oppressing women and gay people; to asserting their right to join the world nuclear club.
And yet, no matter how strongly we want to see our beliefs and values prevail in Iran, we need to understand the 70 million people who live here. What if the saber-rattling coming out of Washington (and the campaign trail) doesn’t coerce this country into compliance? In the past, other powerful nations have underestimated Iran’s willingness to be pulverized in a war…and both Iran and their enemies have paid the price.
In the coming months and years, I believe smart and determined diplomacy can keep the Iranians — and us — from having to build giant new cemeteries for the next generation’s war dead. That doesn’t mean “giving in” to Iran…it means war is a failure and we need to find an alternative. If this all sounds too idealistic, or even naive…try coming to Iran and meeting these people face-to-face.
Cemetaries and wars. Churchill on the cover of Newsweek with the question “What would Winston Do?” Let us always remember Churchill’s basic principle: “Jaw, Jaw, Jaw is better than war, war, war.”
Naivety is not bad; but it is often a perspective that is possible only if one maintains a narrow perspective. We can still have hope, but we must know what we are dealing with and be willing to believe there are always alternatives. Governments start wars, but people fight them. What does it say of a people that would rather always fight, lose a million lives, and be prepared to continue to fight?. Furhter, who would value their faith be spread under threat of death rather than simply teaching those who are seeking truth. Or worse, that believes if their own join another religion they are worthy of death. This is both confusing and disturbing. Please do not think I don’t value what you have done or think that we should not be expending a great deal of effort to come to know the Islamic world “face to face”. But just as our own, it is a world of many masks and some of them are lethal. They have much to teach us, but it is a two way street and we have much from which they can learn.
To repeat what I have said before: A country consists of a culture and a border. I do not intend to do anything to change the culture of Iran, even those elements I would like to see changed. That is the duty of the citizens of that country. But even more, even if it would take a war, I do not want any Iranian, or anyone from any other country, to try to change our culture. That is the duty of citizens of the USA. If people in the Middle East do not want a Democratic style of government, that is their business, not ours. Let’s just make sure that people from every country leaves everyone in any other country alone.
Let’s just make sure that people from every country leaves everyone in any other country alone. I’m not sure how that can be done.
Most wars are not about cultural exchange, but rather economical intersts of either countries or special industries. Religion, nationalism, idealism or other ..isms are only tools to achieve these interests.
In the coming months and years, I believe smart and determined diplomacy can keep the Iranians — and us — from having to build giant new cemeteries for the next generation’s war dead. That doesn’t mean giving in” to Iran…it means war is a failure and we need to find an alternative. If this all sounds too idealistic, or even naive…try coming to Iran and meeting these people face-to-face. ” I love this paragraph and the last 3 paragraphs in this post. This sums up my feelings as well. As Americans, we are justified in being angry at some of the things Iran stands for. However, they are a nation of 70 million people with day to day lives that goes far beyond the issues we have with their government. Maybe I am a bit idealistic as well but I think putting faces and names to people in this country and culture makes a difference. I hope war can be avoided as well. I am not a peace loving hippie by any means. People tend to view me more as a play by the rules, black and white, unemotional type. However, I really do believe that if we took time to understand the people, cultures, and what is behind other countries, it makes it a lot tougher to stand behind our ideals and go to war with people we actually get to know a little.
You admit that it is justifiable for the US to try to prevent Iran from developing nuclear weapons, and I would agree. The question then becomes how to accomplish this goal. Negotiating from a position of strength, while appearing to be willing to use force, is a tried and true method of dealing with the recalcitrant. “Speak softly, and carry a big stick.” Unoffical dialogue goes on all the time between Iran and the US. Formal talks cannot take place until both parties are confident of an acceptable outcome. That is how the game of international diplomacy is played. The last time Iran perceived the US president as being weak and afraid to use force, our Embassy was stormed and our citizens held hostage until a stronger president took office. Weakness is not rewarded in this world; it is taken advantage of. We do not have the military capability of successfully invading and occupying Iran, but bombing Iranian nuclear sites (not widescale bombing of Iranian cities) is certainly a possibility. It is this threat that might convince Iran to stop or limit its nuclear program. Its a dangerous business, but idealistic inaction is even more dangerous. If Iran did not do its own sabre rattling in its threats against Israel and its support of insurrectionists in Iraq, none of this would be necessary.
The government of Iran does not recognize Israel. And that causes a problem for the U.S.A. Recently, a man in the PBS Television talk show “Charlie Rose” said : if the Palestinians recognize Israel, all the Arab countries will recognize Israel. Is that true ? It seems likely that the Palestinians would recognize Israel if the Palestinians will have their own nation, separated from Israel. The leaders of the U.S.A. said they want the Palestinians to have their own nation. So, what is preventing that from happening ? Is it because the Palestinians are totally unwilling to compromise with the Israeli government ? Or, are the leaders of Israel making unreasonable demands on the Palestinians ? If Israel is recognized by the Arab countries, Israel would not need to have nuclear bombs. And, why do the leaders of Iran think Iran needs to have nuclear bombs ???
In the coming months and years, I believe smart and determined diplomacy can keep the Iranians — and us — from having to build giant new cemeteries for the next generation’s war dead. That doesn’t mean giving in” to Iran…it means war is a failure and we need to find an alternative.” I also find this very compelling, especially considering what war with Iran would really mean. Iran has an army of over half a million, perhaps approaching a million. As Joe mentions, we cannot successfully invade and occupy them. What I believe that Joe is missing is that even the hawks believe that such a bombing campaign would only delay, not prevent, a nuclear Iran. Also, that today’s Iran (though I believe that it does support Hezbollah against Israel, and though I find it plausible that it is very keen to destabilize Iraq, in the way that Joe says) is not the Iran of 1979 and 1980. This is in fact, and despite their bellicose and sickening rhetoric, a much more conservative and realistic Iran. Better a conservative and stable regime, than chaos, and a population of the entire Middle East left furious and eager for revenge at what they will feel was a war undertaken by the US with a cavalier disregard for the actual consequences in terms of human misery. A friend of mine recently said to me: “if you go to war, you have already lost.” I have little reason to rebuke him. We are hardly at the point where we “must” go to war. We should not.
Iranian people would be more than happy it you could see the other side of the country too. there is more cemetries with no name and belong to the people who had been killed for their opinion and nobody care or try to figure out why? It would be more useful to show the iranian people suffering from this government and there is always strike on the street and of course beating and prisonning. Have you thought to make a trip to the prison ” Evin” and see what is there and let the whole world knows about the torture and suffering… Believe it or not many people prefer to be bombed instead of negociating with some crazy government. I wish one day , one person has enough courage to make a film about iranian prisoners and all the women who every day have been rapped . Please watch the iranian TV to find out what is really going on in Iran. The professor at the university who try to rape a student and at the end this is the student who is condemned… All university is on fire and nobody care… Isn’t it better to view all the sides of Iran and tell the truth to people?
Jim, when you speak of “our culture” who are you referring to exactly? Anyway, you’d be surprised just how much of “your” culture actually comes from Iran. Your food, your religion, your language, even your mint julep and Christmas celebrations have roots in Iran. Look up Zoroastrianism, Mithraism and the origins of lemons, spinach and eggplants.
Rick, everyone agrees that wars are bad but while you’re in the cemetary, remember these people were fighting to DEFEND Iran from an outside aggressor Iran also suffered 60,000 dead as a direct result of chemical agent WMD attacks, which were provided to Saddam by the US.
Let us be realistic; war may be the only answer and war does work! That is how we got our independence. That is how we defeated the Axis (powers) of Evil; Germany, Italy, and Japan. Don’t be fooled that the insane leadership of Iran isn’t capable of outwitting the West and not only building, but using nuclear weapons. Nazi Germany new that they were defeated at some point in WWII, but it did not stop them from continuing to fight, while hundreds of thousands of their own people were dying. Diplomatic solutions may be a solution, but don’t get married to this idea without a plan B.
War works SOMETIMES Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think it worked in Vietnam, and I don’t think it’s worked in Iraq (especially considering the damage it has, in part, done to your economy)
If America was an absolute democracy, in which the citizens voted on matters instead of voting for a single individual to make decisions for us, the world would probably be a better place. Seems to me that a representative Republic (that being America), is just another form of dictatorship. Except, the dictator is just in the run for 4-8 years versus a lifetime. Elect your leaders and then hold on for the wild ride. It would be nice if I could actually vote on going to war or not. If I could, and all the citizens of the Earth could, there probably we be no such thing as war anymore. Anyways…
He rick enough with Iran when are going to start blogging about Europe. Summer is upon us and we are looking for some insider information
Thanks so much for this phenomenal travel series! I have enjoyed your blog so much, and the photos provide so much insight! Yes, the average Iranian is not much different from the average American. We all want peace. And yes, the Iranian president hates Bush, and Bush hates the Iranian president. There are political leaders everywhere who stand against other political leaders. But so what – doesn’t mean we should start wars over their hatred! (after all, it’s the people who will be fighting, not the leaders) I am impressed that you did this series and hope it can air very soon, and repeatedly. There is just too much propaganda in our media (just like with many other countries) and Americans need to see who and what we will be destroying if we start another war of aggression. THANKS AGAIN!
Laurence – The analogy is wrong. We fought off the British trying to rule us & take our money; some say the MAIN issue of the revolutionary war was when the British govt passed a law that the Colonists could not print their own money (they were making their own money & the economy was prospering). So we had to fight to rid ourselves of British oppression. Iran is not oppressing us, and as you can learn from people who travel there the Iranians (as well as the majority of people throughout the Middle East) just LOVE Americans! As to Iran being a threat – Americans do not start wars they don’t think they can win. Which is why we never attacked Russia with their thousands of nuclear weapons, and why we don’t attack N. Korea with their nuclear arsenal. We only attack countries that are weak & no threat to our military supremacy, if we have a strategic & economic purpose such as having a base in the middle of Arabia and being able to LIMIT oil supply to keep prices high.
Hi from Tehran and thank you Rick for this series. I hope you’ll be back in Iran and fill some other aspects of the country. I agree with Eric from Raleigh: if only people could vote on all matters concerning, instead of having psychotic people making decisions … I propose we create an international buddy to make sure of the sanity of our leaders! I also thank all the Americans who show a friendly attitude toward Iranians. Peace.
oops… sorry! too many typos! pls correct: body … etc!
Oh Susanna, please fill us in some more with your astute petro theory.
Yes, I agree. Its a fascinating theory, but sounds a little complicated.
Mariam as much as I love rick and use all his books I doubt many people in the senate or congress, DOD,or any alphabet part of the goverment even know his name and his clout is pretty mch restricted to us the little people. So to get what you want an international buddy to make sure of the sanity of leaders you need to tap into the UN or ambassadors. Or thetons of people who have PhD’s in international relations.
Rick, why, oh, why must you continually interject your political ideology into your travel writing? I realize you have a bully pulpit here (oops, sorry for the religious reference, please forgive me … oops, another religious reference) but you do so much good when it comes to travel. Why must you always politicize your writings?
john the reason of the political interjection is because Rick is a taurus Sun (very stubborn and loves nice cushy things) with a cancer ascent (love of family and acutally quite patriotic) and a moon in sagitarius (making him a foreign traveler and teacher.) On his ascendant he has jupiter also pointing to him being a teacher and foreign traveler with an optimistic personality and has uranus in his first house making him march to the beat of his own drum, an individual yet humanitarian- however a kind of cold fish and emotionally distant at times. Right now Uranus is transiting his ninth house of ideology (and started there in 2002) which explains his new energentic interest in politics especially foreign politics. But take heart uranus will be leaving his ninth house in 2010 and going into his tenth house of statuts and career and there will be a big shake up there, lots of roller coaster rides in his career. So he will be off his political kick and focusing more on his business and status. Saturn transiting his fourth house shows a major shake up at home thus his children leaving the nest, and in 2010 Jupiter will be transiting his tenth house with uranus leading to him expanding his business. So watch for a more focus on business and less on political after 2010 if you can hold on and not get caught up in this enthusiasm.
RoseMarie, OMG!!
Keep up the good work, Rick. It’s true that war doesn’t work and it is also true that war is hardest of all on the children. Even more true is the fact that Peace will not be just warm and fuzzy hugs and kisses. Peace will be messy and tricky and hard to pull off and . . . well, you know – that’s one of the things you are working on. Thanks! John
I think Rick needs to quit driving his Taurus and take public transportation to save the environment. Then he needs to keep his politics in Uranus in the ninth house and keep his traveling in Jupiter in his third house in Europe.
Your opinion, although cute, does not matter. The topics on this blog have been discussed for decades with no solution. We all know that there are opposing views and that’s why people kill each other. Either out of ignorance, or for profit. Just enjoy the scenery of Iran, and appreciate HD TV.
Opinions DO matter. But, it depends on how they are formed and if they are positive or negative. If you repeat, like a parrot, the indoctrination you have received, then, not only do you not “know” what you are talking about, but you may be spreading damaging, hateful opinion. Some might say it is impossible to even have an opinion if you are just behaving as a parrot. I’m going to send a letter to the Nobel committee and make sure they are aware of Rick’s lifetime of service in the interest of Peace. He ought to be on their short list for the next prize.
If Jimmy Carter and AlGore can receive a Nobel then Rick should be a winner hands down.
Hi Rick, I found out about your visit to Iran from a right-wing, “Christian” who told me never to go on any of your trips. She makes the mistake of “dehumanizing” others, the first step in justifying aggresssion, cruelty, and war. I appreciate your efforts to humanize the valuable individuals who live in Iran. “Peace”
I believe we all humanize people, of course except the suicide bombers who you cannot humanize because their hard wiring is just plain fried, but what can you do about the governments that rule. It appears the Persians are very happy with their government as they live under it and do not try to overthrow it so if they are happy let them be. We just have to try to keep blocking the crazies from getting enough nuclear power to blow us all to bits. when Kruschev starting lining up and pointing nukes at us in the 60’s we had to stop them same now with Iran. I don’t believe the every day man has anything against the Iranians.
Gretchen, I wonder if your friend was a Muslim would you insert that fact it in your negative post…probably not..politically incorrect heh?
Hey Rick, I appreciate your comments and look forward to watch your program about Iran. I hopping contrary to many others shows about Iran in this show, the public will be shown both sides of Iran; poor and rich, extremism Islam and government vs people thirsty for secularism and democracy, northern iran with it woods and lovely caspian sea vs the deserts of the persian gulf. talking about politics (mixed with history); Iranians survived alexander and in fact built even a bigger empire after him, they survived the mongols and the arab invasion and after that ended up conquering India, they will also survive US. Long before England and US were on the maps, long before the west become the major power of the world, Iran existed and was and continues to be one of the major and important countries in the world (if not then americans wouldn’t be preoccupied with it for the past what? 50 years? (since the Jalta conference with Stalin in Iran] and perhaps even before that going back to the Ottoman empire… And long after US empire fails (as china is rising), Iran will continue to survive and be on the map. The difference between westerners and Iranians is that you guys measure time in years and decades, we measure them in centuries….Patience…… We will get rid of the mullahs (after you get rid of Bush ;) and then we can all live in peace. Lets hope that nothing stupid is mad by Bush or Ahmadinejad (or the so called supreme leader) until then…
Would like to add; Remember there is a big difference between the Iranian government and the people. This should be obvious as Iranian regime is a theocratic regime with “staged elections” to the contrary of democracies of the west where people choose their own leaders… The people of Iran dont want to live under the islamic regime, and that’s why almost 10% of the population lives today in Europe, USA and other countries. The muslims from other countries move abroad so they can be free to practice their religion or for economical reasons, yet when one asks iranians what they do abroad their main reason for moving is to “skip living under theocracy” & to live in a free and secular society…. you may say these are my own personal views, but yet ask yoursleves; how come 10% have moved and how come so far there has been more than 3 student uprisings in the past 10 years?
Would like to add; Remember there is a big difference between the Iranian government and the people. This should be obvious as Iranian regime is a theocratic regime with “staged elections” to the contrary of democracies of the west where people choose their own leaders… The people of Iran dont want to live under the islamic regime, and that’s why almost 10% of the population lives today in Europe, USA and other countries. The muslims from other countries move abroad so they can be free to practice their religion or for economical reasons, yet when one asks iranians what they do abroad their main reason for moving is to “skip living under theocracy” & to live in a free and secular society…. you may say these are my own personal views, but yet ask yoursleves; how come 10% have moved and how come so far there has been more than 3 student uprisings in the past 10 years?
Kuroush, The number of American’s living abroad is now well over 5 million and increasing. The largest number of them because they are disillusioned with American politics. This number doesn’t come close to Iran. I accept the reason of religious freedom (or freedom from religion) might be the greatest motivator, but I think a big reason for leaving Iran is for greater economic opportunity. Most of my Iranian friends were in the Shah’s circle and so their perspective on Iran is much different than those living there today. Not saying there are not major issues. But there are major issues here in the USA too.