Menu Especial Anticrisis

Research has been thought-provoking this last week. I’m giving my Spain book what amounts to a literary haircut: cutting legends and silly tour guide stories out of the book right and left in favor of real history; streamlining coverage; and deleting mediocre listings so as not to dilute the true finds.

My staff is a stickler for details, but I’m realizing some details (like restaurant hours) are futile exercises in over-earnestness. What day a place is closed is critical. What time it starts serving doesn’t really matter. Listing which hotels have air-con is about to go the way of listing who has “hot and cold running water.” Same with free Wi-Fi. I’m inclined to delete all fax numbers…but that’s a bit scary. (Does anyone still fax reservations to hotels? Please give a little feedback here. Would you miss not having fax numbers in a guidebook?)

I had one gourmet restaurant listed in Ronda that was famous. But when my local guide illustrated how overpriced it was by saying, “They serve foam on plates as big as the bill,” I saw the light and realized it didn’t belong in my guidebook.

I met some Canadians in Córdoba who were enjoying my guidebook and told me they watched my TV series and found it “soporific.” I didn’t know whether they meant it was relaxing or a sedative.

Nearly each day I’ve enjoyed the services of a local guide. One way I help them (as they are giving me so much information) is to fine-tune their English. They can mispronounce a word for years and no one will set them straight. I find their lack of perfection charming, but they are always thankful for the tips. My Córdoba guide, Alicia, was a brilliant teacher but accented the wrong syllables in megalomania, continuity, rivalry, and massacre. And she pronounced “legend” with a long first e.

Alicia had just come off a German tour and was exasperated. Being half-German herself, she felt comfortable complaining. She said, “Those German tourists are so intense. They own you, test your knowledge. And at the end, they don’t even say thank you. They squeezed me for three hours.” I asked, “Like low-class people who eat more than they really want at an all-you-can-eat buffet just to get more than their money’s worth?” And she said, “Perfect.”

On a generalization roll, she noted how Japanese tourists can smell the best food in a restaurant but won’t eat there if their guidebook says to eat elsewhere. (Many Americans over-trust their guidebooks, too. I’ve had Swiss hoteliers tell me that if my book says a trail is open and they tell the traveler it’s now closed, the American will believe my year-old guidebook advice over their warnings. The power of the printed word can be frighteningly crazy.) My Spanish guide’s favorite tourists are Americans because we are “curious, informal, and appreciative.”

Alicia once visited America (Boulder, Colorado) and was frustrated by the thin history. An archeologist by training, she needs history. She wondered aloud if, because Americans can generally dig down and find no history, while Europeans dig and find evidence of people who lived there long before them, perhaps Americans feel less need for and respect of history.

Just a week into my trip, it’s hard to know exactly how the financial crisis is affecting Europe. My take: Hotels aren’t lowering prices, but I’d email them directly to take advantage of prices bound to be soft. Local tour guides are hungry, and tours will go with fewer people on them just to save some income.

With the bad economy, locals now want jobs immigrants were once welcome to take. This leaves immigrants roaming around without work. Crime rises, and so does racial tension. The danger of car break-ins and petty theft is higher now. With economic ups and downs over the decades, I see a clear correlation with general affluence and desperation on the part of poor people.

Spanish unemployment is reportedly at 17 percent — the highest in Europe. When I said many Americans had lost much of their 401(k) retirement savings, Spaniards said, “What’s a retirement account?” They live without that security, counting on a humble national pension (national health care, subsidized senior housing) and little more.

One guide told me Málaga has as many cruise ships in 2009 as in 2008, but people are spending very little on shore. In Toledo, guides are staying busy thanks only to Spanish, German, and French school groups. International tourism is way down. Restaurants are spookily empty. It makes doing my research harder.

I saw a guy wearing a T-shirt proclaiming “What Financial Crisis?” walking in front of a restaurant advertising a “special anti-crisis” menu.

Comments

49 Replies to “Menu Especial Anticrisis”

  1. Rick, It’s great reading your blog. I’m sure many of us wish we were there. FYI–I would never think of faxing a reservation. The reservations I have done have been by e-mail and have been quite speedy. Happy Travels, Kristin Dublin, Ohio

  2. Rick, Happy Easter! In the eight years that we have used your guidebooks, I have never faxed. All reservations and info done by Email. I am glad that you are working on restaurants. What we have found years ago is that even with a current guidebook either we just can’t find the place or it isn’t anything like the guidebook says. So we just have learned how to find our own way with smaller local restaurants. I am wondering about all these travel deals myself. We are leaving for Costa Rica in a couple weeks and so far I haven’t seen anything that special. We are going to wait until we get there to decide on activities, so we will see then how busy it is and what they are offering.

  3. I prefer faxing credit card numbers vs. e-mailing them. The question is: Do I need the number in your books? Most web sites provide faxing details, and most places will confirm an e-mail reservation with the fax number for sending Credit card details. As to the literary haircut…update the style, but don’t lose the charm. Guidebooks are much easier to read when they have an occasional humorous story mixed in with all the facts. One of the things I’ve always appreciated about your books is that they occasionally make me laugh.

  4. Rick, Happy Travels and hope you are enjoying Easter in Spain, if you are still there. The pageantry at the cathedrals is remarkable. RE: fax numbers, my experience has been that even small hotels have web sites and email, which is what I use to communicate and confirm reservations. Perhaps for those that don’t, include a fax number, but otherwise their web and email address is probably the most useful information to have. I’ve also seen that in many European countries restaurants operate fairly standard hours across a city or region, so perhaps and indication of those would suffice, rather than trying to get into the exact hours for each cafe or restaurant. For me the most important thing is knowing the siesta time, and if there is a day that they are closed. Hotel staff can always call for you to confirm their actual hours.

  5. We will be in Spain in September so I am looking forward to any updates you have. Email is what I use for booking, even for providing credit card information. When in doubt I’ll split the card no. into two consecutive emails. One improvement I think you should consider is to list the restaurants before the hotels in the book. In the tradition of tearing out needed chapters I only need to keep places to visit and restaurant listings together. The hotel section in the middle between places and restaurants seems out of logical sequence. I actually could leave that section home since I book my hotels before leaving. One more improvement, list all hotels with phonbe no., emails and addresses in a table at the end of the chapter. Then I could just cut it out and take it with me. Happy Travels!

  6. As a first-time RS customer and a first time reader of his 2009 blogs, it occurs to me that new customers don’t grow on olive trees and I wonder if Rick considers the impact of his more provocative social commentary on his employees’ efforts? Including lead guides there are probably more than one hundred people who depend on Rick for income. I admire, and wince, at his nerve as I scan his 2009 blogs and I hope he has empowered his employees to confront him when they feel he is making harder their work to expand the business beyond just repeat customers. That doesn’t mean Rick should not be true to his personal beliefs. But a spoonful of sugar could help his medicine go down, even as it’s being dispensed by a witty,persuasive entrepreneur who is a John Denver look-alike. Just a thought from someone else who is outspoken on the issues but unwilling to kill the golden geese – or the travel workers who tend them. Best wishes. Bill Kester, South Carolina

  7. I would echo the thought that we would not miss the lack of fax numbers. However, I would like to keep info on which places have free wi-fi. It’s one of the factors we use to decide where we want to stay.

  8. WRT Fax: I do fax credit card info to places that don’t let me send it via a secure web site (or split it in half and sent two emails, but I prefer to fax). However, at that point I have the fax number from the hotel, not a guide book. I can’t remember the last time I reserved with a hotel in Europe that didn’t have at least a basic web site – so definitely list the web site. WRT restaurant times: much more important to know when they’re closed – I just arrived in Dijon on a Sunday, and almost all the places to eat are closed for dinner. Unless the hours are way out of line with others in the same place, or it only does dinner or lunch and not both. WRT prices: so far this trip I’ve stayed in Nice, Grenoble and now Dijon, and I don’t notice that prices are down. However, the dollar is doing much better than the last time I was in Europe, so things feel cheaper.

  9. Forgot about the wi-fi – I used to swear that Internet cafes were fine and I’d never travel with a laptop, but cafes were getting harder to find in rich countries, and now I have a new “baby” computer (Lenovo S10) and (free) hotel wi-fi just became a lot more important. Or a free broadband connection if it’s more of a business hotel.

  10. I agree with Connie–keep the humour and personal stories together with the facts. I don’t use fax numbers but do use PHONE numbers to send credit card info or to contact those small places which don’t have a website or email. (and there are some of these!)

  11. When I booked my summer 2009 hotel reservations in Italy and Switzerland, it occurred to me that Europeans really must love their fax machines. Why don’t more European hotels have secure web sites? That would eliminate the need to send faxes. I had to find my old external fax modem and learn how to use it, because I won’t send credit card information in an email. I realize that some people do that, but that is like sending the information on a postcard and hoping that no one reads it. However, most hotels will list their fax numbers on their web sites, so as long as you include the correct hotel web site address, we should be OK.– Rick, I am looking forward to your Best of Village Italy tour this summer!

  12. Hi Rick, Thanks for a great update on travel in Spain. We always use e-mail to contact hotels and would not be upset if fax numbers were no longer listed in the guidebook–many times a fax number is posted on hotel websites. Thanks for all of the info that you provide–my husband and I travel often because you make it so easy!

  13. Fax nos. I never use. For credit card security I split the nos. in different e-mails. As a solo traveler my family expects to get an e-mail from me (always brought a laptop-last trip an itouch). I leave them a spreadsheet that includes wifi availability in my hotels. Also I verify with the hotels if they have a hairdryer -one less to bring.

  14. Rick Hack, slash, cut, trim……your books are too fat now plus you have too many separate books ….recombine some of them back together……..I only fax if cc numbers needed …mostly e-mail. BTW your books are great….suggestions are made not as criticism but as refinements….would love e-book versions AND /OR rip out pre-cut sections. No book ever makes it home in one piece..easy to carry smaller sections in pocket instead of 1500 pages of some books .Excellent Blog entry …Thanks again Rick

  15. I would love it if you would perforate your book so that it would be easy to tear out pages. We do this all the time with textbooks. It would make the books more flexible. Pam

  16. I vote yes for fax numbers but if the hotel has a good website with the correct info (i find that Italian and Greek hotel websites in particular tend to have the wrong info) then the website only works.

  17. I agree we could, at this point, do just fine without the fax numbers. Perhaps WI-FI should only be mentioned when it’s NOT available? I appreciate the blog!

  18. Rick by taking out fax nos. does this help or hinder? I confirm via email and fax so if they have both, please leave them is my vote. Like bill in sc, I wonder how your opinions touch staff? Would not want you to pull back viewpoints ever, so allowing staff feedback seems a great communication internal tool. Your staff always has the answers I need too. I am in spain now for the new twin/city rail connected tour starting soon. Larry from springfield traveling on…

  19. Rick, your blogs of the trip are great and very insightful. I have never used fax numbers and would not miss them. I use phone or most recently Internet exclusively for my reservations. I am looking forward to your Rome and Tuscany visits. I just visited Rome in January and Tuscany last May loved using your guidebooks!

  20. For our last 2 trips I have given credit card info almost exclusively via fax. I do agree though that the fax number is usually available on the website. I enjoy the legends and silly info included in the books. I also agree it would be cool if the pages were perforated. Last trip I took 4 books to Kinko’s had the spine’s cut off, and the pages I wanted spiral bound. It worked awesome!

  21. Cutting fax numbers is no problem, as far as I am concerned. Please keep the telephone numbers where there are English speakers answering. Also please keep the email addresses.

  22. I’ve pressed my nose sadly against the window of a closed English tearoom and missed lunch at a Spanish restaurant because I didn’t know their “not-intuitive-for-an-American” hours. I know hours change, but why tell readers how to finely tune their daily itinerary to hit museums at this time and tours at that time yet not say when restaurants don’t serve food during the day? Man does not live on history alone if your blood sugar is low!

  23. Rick, I really liked the cultural distinctions among different groups of tourists. It is something I have experienced myself in Europe. And as someone who loves Europe just for its history (I just finished a book Renaissance and Reformantion in Europe that I read for fun), I appreciate more history in your books. Honestly, it’s one of my fave things to read in your book. As for the economic crisis, I wanted to share a feel good story that I read today about Estonia in The Times. What a refreshing approach and attitude to hard times! Would be a great story to read in your headlines about how Europeans are dealing with the crisis in a good way. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/the_way_we_live/article6053885.ece

  24. Rick, Going to Spain in June for 1st time, mostly in Seville so hoping you’ll be adding some new info about that ciy, especially restaurant updates, from this trip. Used your books on last trip in 2007 in France. You were right on about where to stay. Loved Rue Cler. Will use your suggestions for Spain as well. Really love your approach to travel & appreciate all you do to make it so enjoyable for all.

  25. Jill Had to comment………Kinko’s to bind pages of all books together before trip….what a fantastic idea…..I’m sold………will be doing that before my next trip…..brilliant…..

  26. The Japanese tourist fascinates me. Can anyone explain the utter and total group mentality and conformist travel style? Let me back that up by saying, Have you ever been to Hawaii? The Japanese tourists seem to stay together and always take the same trolly and tour. Even a hotel in Waikiki beach is know as Little Tokyo. Someone please explain?….Is it the language and totally different culture?

  27. Hi Rick! Are you finding more nun cookies in Spain? That was my ALL TIME FAVORITE Rick tip! I’m headed to Italy in late April and early May with my mom and hope to meet you in one of your recommended hotels! Re: Fax numbers – not necessary. Won’t book a hotel without a website so they’re not necessary. Another vote for perforated pages – right on! Thanks for all the great advice over the years. My mom and I have great travel memories thanks to you and your team. Jennifer

  28. I do like to fax credit card info and last year I was trying to make a reservation in Varenna, Italy (Albergo Milano actually) and could not get an e-mail to go through. Even when I did a reply to their email to me. We never discovered why but the fax worked for me and the email for them so we communicated.

  29. Unless every hotel in the book has A/C, please don’t stop mentioning it. I don’t know if it’s an automatic in Spain, but not every hotel has A/C in other places that can get very hot (like Italy), and we won’t book a hotel in the summer unless it has A/C. We’ve even been in Switzerland when it was 90 degrees,and we don’t ever again want to go though that without A/C.

  30. My #1 problem with Spain is the amount of smoking that goes on in public places. I am spoiled by how easy it is to avoid smoking in America and much of Europe. But, Spain was an exception. I opened the door to a cafe or restaurant only to have clouds of smoke spill out to great me. Even walking down the street was a challenge while trying to avoid 2nd hand smoke. One cold rainy day, I simply wanted to have a coffee and eat in a warm cafe, but the smoke drove me out. I doubt if I will return to Spain until the No-Smoking movement has caught on a bit more.

  31. Smoking is a real problem in Spain, as well as in parts of Germany. No smoking sections in small restaurants or Ratzkellers are useless, as the smoke drifts all over the place. The no smoking ban has worked well in Italy where smoking is banned at indoor eating places, yet allowed at outdoor cafes and bars. Spain could try following that trend.

  32. Rick I just have to say that I love watching your shows and it gives me a good feel for what the city/country is like and it makes me want to go on a trip, but for now I am content to just watch and learn. I tend to agree with the others that you don’t really need to include the fax numbers because most hotels have e-mail and you can just contact them that way. I also love the humor that you add in your books and it makes the reading funner. Enjoy your travels!

  33. Rick – I use email to make reservations but then I absolutely use Fax to send my credit card confirmation info. Putting a credit card number into email is like writing it on a post card (it may not be read and abused but it easily can be).

  34. I love your guidebooks. i wish I could have your style of book for all my trips – not just Europe. More real history and less guide trivia sounds like your style. Go for it. To update your guidebook info I would add more internet, internet, internet! I love tripadvisor’s website for the customer comments. I also would love to see one of your travel classes streamed on the web. Edmonds is a long way from South Carolina.

  35. Drat! I JUST purchased your Spain Guide for our Madrid trip in May. Sure glad I read your blog regarding making changes in it. Regardless, your guides are the best we’ve ever used.

  36. I suspect more and more hotels will be getting wi-fi, and so this is a moving target. I’d say a hotel’s website is all important, and is the key thing your guidebook should provide, along with a phone number. All the lesser details such as wi-fi or fax # will be found on the website. If the hotel lacks a website, then your guidebook could provide these details. Very much enjoying your blog. Happy travels!

  37. Rick, I’m delighted that you’re doing so much work for your Spain update! We’ll be traveling to Spain next spring to visit our daughter who will be studying in Denia, so we’ll buy your 2010 edition. Fax is out, internet is in. Don’t need the numbers. Will you be doing anything about Denia, in Valencia? It’s a charming city! I’m enjoying your blog.

  38. please keep fax #, at least for hotels that don’t have a website that lists it. I fax my credit card info to make a reservation using the handy form you have in your guide books.

  39. Hi Rick, I have planned a trip for this summer and used 4 of your books to do so. I haven’t used a single fax number, but have used the web sites for every recommedation. If I really wanted a fax number, I assume the website would have it. Thanks Andrea

  40. Rick, My wife and I “lived” out of your guidebook for a month in Spain a couple of years ago. We like the Michelin maps better than some of your hand-drawn ones, but your restaurant recommendations were tops. I can’t wait to see your improved edition…it’ll be even more valuable. As for fax numbers, here’s one vote to leave them out. I use email, and our fax machine at home is gathering dust.

  41. Just a quick comment about the fax subject. I do work in a Hotel and quite a few people still use the fax number to make reservations (I’ve noticed, for example French tourists do it a lot)as they don’t like writing their credit card details in an e-mail, they feel it not as safe as in a fax. So please do not delete them from your guides. Thanks.

  42. Re wi-fi – I will never knowingly book a hotel that does not have free wi-fi. My iPhone gets really hungry for data!!!!!

  43. I will use email if it is available rather than faxing reservation requests. (In my overseas business travel I do come across some hotels that still require faxed reservations.)

  44. I think you’re a little biased in favor of those who eat late. I could care less what time a place closes, but I do want to know what time it opens!

  45. Wifi (or WLAN as the call it there) YES. Fax, no. Haven’t sent a costly fax in years for a reservation, I email everyone from my iPhone and having wifi makes it very easy when the foreign data plans get to be to much money. I’ve even texted reservations this year while on the train. Now that’s 21st Century Europe!

  46. I’m good to go without the fax numbers. Someone who really needed them could easily find them on the internet.

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