I’ve spent as much time traveling and researching in Spain as in most other countries of Europe, but I don’t have as many friends here. I mentioned that frustration to my guide, Frederico (who is a friend). He shared an explanation: Spain’s older generation grew up under Franco (the fascist dictator who ruled until the mid-1970s). Anyone my age and older didn’t have the opportunity to study abroad, and foreign languages weren’t encouraged in Franco’s xenophobic Spain.
Spain’s movies are dubbed — with lips flapping out of sync while you hear the dialogue in Spanish. This is another part of Franco’s heritage. Young people didn’t pick up the melody of foreign languages at the movies (as they do in most of Europe), and movies could be easily censored without people even realizing it.
My observation that younger Spaniards aren’t very religious (the feeling I got after spending Easter here) is also related to Franco. Historically, the Spanish Church has long meddled in political power. Franco was highly moralistic, and the Spanish Catholic Church was his ally in all things conservative. While Franco is long gone, the moralistic ghost of the dictator still haunts Spain’s youth in the Church government’s conservatism — especially on abortion.
Spain does allow gay marriage (including the term “marriage”), and it’s legal to smoke marijuana here (but not to sell it). But abortion, divorce, and contraception remain points of exasperation for the secular younger generation. The Church’s rigidity in these matters alienates Spain’s youth.
Guides here have no choice but to talk about Christian art — it’s everywhere. But they do it with a (to me) sad detachment, often slipping in an “I’m not religious” disclaimer. Spain’s youth are spiritual — another friend of mine here told me how much joy she finds in meditative whirling, dervish-style, while contemplating God. But there’s no mainstream Protestant alternative to Catholic Christianity, so many opt out of organized religion entirely and have no faith at all.
Considering that the Church (capital C) is supposed to be a conduit between people and their innate need to get close to their Creator, it seems the Church here is not doing a very good job.
Hi Rick, We enjoyed meeting you a couple of weeks ago here in Granada at Plaza Nueva when you were with our friends Margarita and Miguel. I have enjoyed reading your observations about the Spanish culture, especially in regard to religion—you have some keen, and unfortunately, accurate observations. We arrived here in Spain a little over two years ago (right before Semana Santa), and now after the third year observing all these festivities, we too have yet to find many who are actually thinking or even understand what Easter is really about. We are saddened by the big disconnect between the Church and real life and it has been difficult to see people so fervently enthused and passionate about these religious traditions and celebrations, but yet not really understand, comprehend, nor live out the true message of Jesus’ life and teachings. While there are more and more Protestant churches here in Spain, most Spaniards view them with much skepticism and disdain and see them as part of a strange cult or sect. Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to see us when you were here in Granada. Let us know when you make it back here again. It would be fun to discuss all this over a few tapas. :)
Whether one is religious or not (or in my case not Christian), European religous art, as well as the beauty of Europe’s churches and cathedrals, can be greatly appreciated nonetheless. Obviously, for a devout Christian, there is even more to be gleaned.
Many other countries dubb also and so would it be done in the US also if a majority of the programming would be in a different language. Only the scandinavian countries do not do it. They realize that it is good for the people to read and hear another language. I do not see a problem with the young people not being religious in Spain. The catholic church there has a very ugly history with the inquisition. As a matter of fact I do not understand how in todays world there are still so many people that do believe in a higher being. It is like believing in Santa. Religions were just invented for the fear of death that is universal with people. Bible was written by people and the knowledge of those that wrote it was very limited and mainly superstition. For me religion is about old traditions but to actually believe in any of that stuff is preposterous. Religion has been used through out the history dominate and use people for the greed and power for the church – especially the catholic church. In the middle ages most power and money was in the hands of the church while most people lived a subpar excistence. You tell me how Jesus’ teachings had anything to do with that? Here in America church is also a big scam just to take your hard earned cash. You can live a good life by following the golden rule. You do not have to have the church to tell you how to live.
Once again you have chosen to disparage the Catholic Church which I cannot understand how you can do with a wife that is a devoute catholic and bother in law that is a priest and runs Notre Dame. I hope that under the new Pope things stabalize and was estatic to see him reject Caroline Kennedy as the ambassador to the Vatican because of her views on abortion. And it is good to see that Spain still incorporates these views as well. I am sorry to say that what is going on in Spain with the political flap and wanting to push forward to internationally hold “the Bush 6” accountable for war crimes, many americans will cross spain off the must see list. Which is sad because I have spent many happy times in Barcelona but won’t be returning soon if this is how they treat America. Well fellow travelers Happy Tea Party tonight.
Rick give the Catholic’s a rest…trying picking on the Muslims for a change
Great post Rick. Thank you for sharing your perceptions of religious life in Spain today. I did not receive it as you knocking the Catholic Church, but a relatively honest portrayal of what is going on in Spanish society today. I suspect the actual reasons for the lack of religiosity is more complicated, but that does not invalidate what was said. History is a subject that should be delved into deeply; comprehension is impossible for those who speedily accept the trite phrases and opinions of their college professors as they march on through life. There are few organizations that can be painted solely in black and white. In fact, if you “speak” or think in black and white; stop! Observe, reflect, think, don’t talk yet, listen, then understand before you open your mouth that you still have only a limited understanding. Opine humbly. Ignorance is not an acceptable excuse for stupidity. Thanks again for blogging.
Your insight and experience brought a great perspective and additional clarity to life in Spain. My wife and I traveled Spain and Portugal recently. Our perception was that whether in a larger city (Madrid) or Toledo size cities the people were reluctant to open themselves to us, less willing speak english, even when it became evident they could. There was a barrier there that took effort to break down, but at times it did and we experienced a part of who they are. By contrast, our travels in Portugal found a more open, friendly people, who often spoke english without hesitation. English signs existed in many locations frequented by english speaking people yet too often no signs in english existed in Spain even at obvious tourist sites. Nevertheless, both Spain and Portugal are beautiful countries well worth visiting.
To Natale who wrote (see above) “Once again you have chosen to disparage the Catholic Church which I cannot understand how you can do with a wife that is a devoute catholic and bother in law that is a priest and runs Notre Dame. I hope that under the new Pope things stabalize and was estatic to see him reject Caroline Kennedy as the ambassador to the Vatican because of her views on abortion.” Please do not knock Rick, Please read about the CRUSADES, which murdered many innocent people…someone once said to me when they visited the Vatican, that they were gasping for air, I asked why? they stated that this was a modern day Colosseum, innocent people were murdered to build this place–what about the Vatican returning the stolen Art? thou shall not kill and thou shall not steal are commandments…enough said
Christian get real–the Crusades- I knock Rick because he is so anti Catholic yet sends his son to Notre Dame for the pedigree of it- and of course because his brother in law runs the place. If he feels so strongly about how horrid catholics are send the boy to Columbia. He kinds of reminds me of the English under Henry VIII and Cromwell planning and executing the demise of catholasism, monestaries and peoples right to their own beliefs. The muslims slaughtered thousands of christians during the crusades and yet nothing is said of that.I think one of the reasons he doesn’t visit Spain as much as other countries is because it is so religious and catholic and probably don’t embrace him as other countries might. When he talks like this he sounds like a petty little tyrant and I don’t like to see that side of him.
Franco lives? I remember feeling that way every time I had to deal with RENFE.
I really don’t think that Rick is being anti-Catholic at all. He’s simply being an observant traveler, as well as an honest one. If anyone would take the time to actually investigate the atrocities that the Catholic Church ignored, as well as encouraged, sanctioned and participated in, during the Spanish Civil War and the Franco totalitarian regime, then it becomes quite obvious why the Catholic Church in Spain is not held in high regard by many Spaniards.
Natalie, really, the Lord Protector Oliver Cromwell? Now you sound like those secessionist loons in my state of Texas at that tax protest rally (and where were they when it was President Bush and a capitulating Republican-controlled Congress that bloated our budget to record proportions? They don’t like “big government”, but God help you if they don’t get their FEMA check in timely fashion.) Cromwell burned books, closed theatres, dissolved Parliament and persecuted Irish Catholics–as in killed. Exactly how is Rick Steves comparable? Do yourself a solid and read up before making such hideous comparisons. As far as RENFE is concerned, I have no compliants, and rail was my primary mode of transport in Spain.
oops “complaints”…
Natalie, there’s no contradiction in Rick sending his son to a Catholic school because he is NOT anti Catholic. But he IS someone who is willing to hear out all sides of an issue, unlike you. I am sure that Rick would openly the wrongdoing that has been done by Protestants, including your bete noire, Cromwell. Will you similarly denounce the wrongdoing of the Church? Yeah, that’s what I thought. Nixon said “If the President does it, it’s not illegal.” You say, “If the Pope does it, it’s not immoral.” Enjoy your tea.
I didn’t know a whole generation in Spain was growing up more or less liberated from religion. That is good news. There is really no line of reasoning that will reach those who are indoctinated in mythical beliefs since birth…anymore than you can free the minds of those who justify war crimes against mankind.
Natalie, Todd, et. al.: Face it, the Catholic Church DOES have a lot to answer for, starting with its complicity, be it tacit or explicit, with the Franco regime in Spain and its discreet looking the other way regarding the Nazi regime in WWII and oh yeah, there is the matter of shuffling those pedophile priests around, isn’t there? The Church’s leadership fails that basic test–let he who is without sin cast the first stone.
Natalie, So I guess Italy (Rick’s admittedly favorite country) isn’t predominantly Catholic? Gee, isn’t Vatican City IN Italy? Your argument that he doesn’t spend as much time in Spain because of the Catholicism is laughable at best. Incidentally, as a cradle-Episcopalian in my 40’s, I can tell you that we “out-Catholic-ed” the Catholics in the late 60’s (post-Vatican II) in our very High Church parish (my middle name is Margaret which came from our church–St. Margaret’s). That doesn’t prevent me from recognizing that there are a lot of weird things about organized religion. Consider that Christianity is centered on cannibalism… (Take, eat, this is my body which is given for you…). Never looked at it that way, did you?
Another interesting blog posts…love the insights and hope one day to experience what you write about 1st hand. Ignore the religous/political criticisms in the Comments…they should understand you are merely making a cultural observation. …Vicarously travelling through Europe with you.
It’s looking like Father Jenkins won’t be employed at Notre Dame much longer. The invitation to President Obama to speak at the commencement and the presenting of an honorary degree; is likely to result in his dismissal. If this occurs, Rick will have a dilemna on his hands, concerning his continued support of the unversity.
Rick, very interesting post. I have two friends in Madrid and in Barcelona who are seving as Protestant missionaries to try and re-engage the community to get them interested in a faith they can call their own. Spain is much different than other parts of Europe. It is saturated in religion, culturally in its own bubble (unlike any country I have visited in Europe), and lacking in real faith. They have so much religion but it is so much more cultural than other countries and has less influence or cultural knowledge or language from other countries. It’s unique. And I agree that Spain is a place that needs an infusion of faith. However, as religious of a country as they are, it seems they need an infusion of faith from a different source to changes and growth in that area.
A follow up to something Kaarina said above. Spain’s neighbors to the north, Portugal, don’t dub many of their movies and shows. As a result, the people I encountered in Portugal are some of the best English speakers of any I have met in Europe. And while other countries may dub their movies and shows (I know France does from my own personal experience), there is still more of an intercultural exchange and understanding of other languages that doesn’t exist in Spain. I don’t know that I have been a a country more ethnocentric or that really speaks one language than Spain. The closest thing to that in my experience is the US.
Mama Mia!! Such serious blogging. General Franco was generally feared rather than revered. I like this story about the stiff-necked Franco. While being chauffered about the countryside one day, he saw a peasant laboring by the roadside. He told his driver to stop so he could talk to the man. But the worried peasant didn’t know who Franco was. Franco was furious and said, “You must know who I am. My name is on billboards and signs all over Spain!” The relieved peasant gushed: “Oh si!! Senor Coca Cola !!” Bill Kester_______SC
What is wrong with keeping your eyes and ears open and learning something about other people and cultures. Do we all have to be the same?
Umm, Jeremy B — I think you meant that Portugal is Spain’s neighbor to the west. Also, France has often offers two versions of movies — V.O. (Version Original), as well as in the dubbed format.
This is a fascinating post, Rick. I’m sorry some chose to read it as anti-Catholic, partly because I think that conversation misses the point you made. When I visited Spain in late 2001 I was very intrigued by the country, and fell in love with many parts of it, particularly Barcelona. However, I did notice a kind of distance, a kind of coldness, that I’d never experienced in other parts of Europe. Only when I read your post here did I realize that the long period of dictatorship and the isolation it imposed on Spain likely played a major role in creating a feeling of distance. I found that the younger generation helps bridge this. When my then-girlfriend and I checked into our pension near the Prado museum, the woman on duty became upset when we told her we were unmarried but wanted a room with a double bed. Her daughter happened to come in, took over from the mother, explained that “mom has older values, but you’re welcome to stay here in any room you like.” It worked out well, but the younger generation certainly helped defuse what could have been a deal-breaking situation (as well as a bad start to what was a great trip). Spanish Catholicism seems a bit standoffish to me, much unlike Mexican or Italian or Irish Catholicism. Perhaps that’s what Rick is reacting to. I don’t know if it’s always been that way, and it certainly doesn’t have to be that way in the future. But the 20th century saw Spanish Catholicism either under direct threat from the Second Republic, or allied to a reactive dictator. Neither is conducive to a warm form of Catholicism, which is what I’m used to. Perhaps this is coming off as unfair to Spain, and I did encounter some wonderful and friendly people there. Maybe my broken, Mexican-accented Español didn’t help much. But this is an interesting way of thinking about how history impacts our travels and our interactions. In June my wife and I are going to Portugal for two weeks. I’m interested to see how it compares to Spain.
God is Dead
Jonathan–How incredibly original! Of course, if He’s dead, then He must have lived. Probably just got tired of us fools and threw it all in.
I’m an athiest, but playing the God Game can be fun. I just had a blind date. We met in front of the Monkey cages. OOps! We walked away with red faces and stopped in front of the giraffe enclosure…and read about his 18 inch long tongue. So, if God has a plan for everybody, he also has devilish fun in the planning.
Obviously God has a sense of humor, else why is the procreation of all species, but especially humans, done in such an outrageously funny manner?
Twenty years ago my husband and I visited Barcelona and Taragona, and couldn’t get out of Spain fast enough. The smog was awful, the people cranky, the food impossible. I swore I would never go back, but this January, I had the chance of visiting Spain with the Midwest High Speed Rail Association. Yes, we rode wonderful trains and met with rail officials and yes, they are way ahead of the USA. I fell in love with Spain and can’t wait to go back. I also can’t get enough of reading about recent Spanish history and the affect Franco had on generations of Spaniards, and yes, the Catholic Church aided and abetted the facists. Talking to Spaniards, and they are careful about opening up, you begin to understand what oppression and fear does to people. The younger generation is far more relaxed. Americans, no matter how hard we try, are terribly obvious, and a real delight on this trip, was how we were treated. Young people would see us and yell “Obama!” We would cheer and yell back. There was wonderful enthusiasm and welcome. I love France, adore Italy, would live in Belgium, but Spain has seduced me. It is a country so beautiful, so subtle, so complicated, so rich, and so very modern and ancient at once. I have a vivid memory of traveling by train and seeing a “Don Quixote” windmill next to a huge wind farm. Some might be offended. I thought it was beautiful.
I read thearticle twice and did not see any anti Catholic comments. I was stationed (USAF) in Mardrid from 1971 through 1975 and left just before France died. My family and I took a three day trip within Spain just about every month. Most of my fellow airman were married to Spanish women which opened up their families to me. Even so, they were reluctant to be open until they knew you better. A common comment I heard was that a Spainard went to church three times in his life: born, wed and dead. On a more humerus note, our base exchange could not have Playboy magazine because it was too offensive….
My husband and I spent nearly 3 weeks in Spain. We love Spain and the people, but noticed a certain tension and reluctance to engage from the Spanish that we’d not experienced in other places in Europe. Rick’s post is well stated, does not seem the least bit anti-Catholic (I am a practicing Roman Catholic, but any good Catholic and any history student knows that the Church erred continually throughout history). Franco’s influence is evident as is the influence of the Church. Rick’s post validated the undercurrent we experienced while in Spain. Thanks Rick!
I mean what does one expect, after all the Spanish people went through, and lets not talk about the Catholic Church, I am an Irish Catholic and I have seen with our history of the Irish famine where 5.16 million Irish men, women and children; were wiped out making it the Irish Holocaust. All those leaders, Stalin, Lenin, Franco and Hitler should not be mentioned today as it causes offence to those who witnessed the atrocities at the hands of those.