Euro Experiences from NW to SE — Part II

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Enlarge photo

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Let me stoke your travel dreams by sharing some of my favorite European experiences, roughly from northwest to southeast. Maximizing the experience is a dimension of smart budget travel that’s just as important in challenging times as saving money. Imagine these…

Nobody does chocolate like the Belgians. There’s something elegant about dropping in on the most expensive chocolate-maker in town—there’s one in every Belgian burg. Find a place that’s family-run, where locals buy their chocolate fresh, and people expect the shop to close on hot days because quality chocolate can’t survive the heat. Skip trendy “gourmet chocolatiers” who serve their chocolates with gimmicky flavors from gorgonzola to ginger—go for the purists.

A big percentage of American tourists visit Belgium as pilgrims…beer pilgrims, traveling all the way to that country to savor its plush and creamy beer. Hang out with devotees for a few nights and became a believer. My favorite Belgian evening is spent in an upscale pub, savoring a monk-made Trappist Blauwe Chimay (for example) with a rustic plate of bar food with locals who are both patriotic and evangelical about their Belgian brew.

In Holland, the “pilgrims” are more likely focused on the marijuana scene. Even if you’re not interested in smoking, drop by a “coffeeshop” for a whiff of its ambience. Baristas are patient in explaining to awkward Yankees how things work. Then, make an education out of the experience—talk to a local policeman, getting his take on why the Dutch stopped arresting pot smokers in 1976 and why this approach works. (I know, I just can’t pass up an opportunity to talk drug policy. To see the interesting “America’s Top Ten” list I just made in Coed Magazine, click here).

In Germany, my favorite castle experience is at Burg Eltz. Nestled in an enchanted forest just above the Mosel River, the Eltz castle is lovingly cared for by the aristocratic family that has called it home for centuries. The noble lady still puts out fresh flowers for her many visitors. Hike in from the train station and the experience gains a kind of magic. After an hour climbing under gentle trees through an ancient forest where you’d expect Friar Tuck and Martin Luther to be hiding out, the castle of your fantasies suddenly appears.

Every traditional German beer hall or Bierstube has a table for regulars—just look for the Stammtisch sign. To sample German conviviality at its best, make friends with the Stammtisch gang and get invited to join them at their table. Alternate between sniffing snuff (snorted from the “anatomical snuffbox” created by lifting your thumb high above your first finger) and drinking local schnapps. Before you know it, you’re leading the gang in a rousing rendition of “Country Roads.”

While perhaps the most touristy thing to do in Germany’s most-touristy town, following Rothenburg’s Night Watchman around on his evening rounds is a medieval hoot. Walk the town’s dark and evocative back streets with Georg Baumgartner, the wildly entertaining character whose delivery makes you forget what century you live in. While mobbed with tourists in mid-day, Rothenburg empties at night, when its flood-lit ramparts are all yours.

Climb the shiny glass dome that now caps the Reichstag (parliament building) in Berlin—for me, the most energizing thing to do in Germany’s most-energized city. From the top, look down on Germany’s legislators at work. You’re surrounded not by tourists but by Germans, who are determined to get politics right from now on.

Comments

27 Replies to “Euro Experiences from NW to SE — Part II”

  1. Rick, finally an explanation for your political opinions. I knew that without injesting some kind of mind altering substance there was no way to explain some of your silly political statements. I am sure that somewhere in your “foggy” world you think you are a “with it” kind of guy. What a great example you set for your kids. You really should write a book about improving your traveling through pot and forget the “political” ideas.

  2. Don’t put so much into the Liberal Marijuana thing! I haven’t smoked or taken anything more than a great glass of wine or a wonderful beer all over the world. Go out try some of that great Belgiun Chocolate and great European food!! It definately is all that it is cracked up to be. Those are some of my best memories in all the countries we have visited. Gosh, chill out and enjoy your life, you only get one chance at it. Our parents all managed to have a great life despite even bigger chanllenges. They could have only dreamed to have the inventions and technology we have today. All this negative bad Karma is going to ruin our country way before the Republicans and Democrats! Take a trip to Normandy and that will really give you perspective on wars!

  3. Rick, we love beer, castles, georg the watchman-bring him to a travel festival sometime! et alla. And once more you swing full tilt on the nail, which our hammer (the gov’t) should be hitting. Drug/abused substance wars aren’t won, just waged forever,(see prohibition) or given up as can’t be won (see same above). Find better, legalized, taxable means which have controls, and don’t give opportunistic criminals a way to wealth and death dealing (see mexico, or l.a., or… today). Which now brings me to progressive tax reform-ha, ha…larry from springfield

  4. While it is not perfect and partly a result of democracy, I’ll bet that many of the people who view our criminal system with horror are those incarcerated.

  5. Since last October we have had the good fortune of sampling great Belgian food (at Belgo Centrall, London), walking with the Night Watchman in Rothenberg, and enjoying Gordon’s Wine Bar in London – all Rick’s recommendations. In the last 20 years of traveling in Europe we have yet to be steered wrong by one of Rick’s suggestions, and we have saved money by showing “the book”. I refuse to let political or religious leanings affect my relationship with my traveling companions, or with Rick. Enjoy the great travel tips for what they are – TRAVEL TIPS!

  6. Great note; I can close my eyes and be walking the streets of Bruges during my walk for lunch. I am itching to return to Germany’s forests and enjoy the locals as I struggle with their language while they speak English. I have never smoked pot or taken an illegal drug during my rather long life and I strong support its legalization. If for no other reason, it is a great source of tax revenues and it removes such a big part of the revenues floating in the black market. It is unfortunate that Rick has to spend so much time talking about these things, but it is a bigger shame that our politicians seldom are visionary and even more seldom have the spine to lead in governing rather than pander to their desire to stay in office and remain on the public dole forever. Legalize it, tax the devil out of it, and move on. Now back to my walk. Cheers.

  7. It is a shame that the only memorable time you seem to have had in the Netherlands is in a coffeeshop. What a pity you didn’t enjoy the small, warm villages, great churches, fields of flowers and friendly Dutch people.

  8. There’s something extra delicious about Belgian chocolates. I also have found Swiss chocolates to be very good. Happy chocolate tasting.

  9. There is another solution besides legalize and tax drugs. It is called being a responsible parent. Developing children are subject to all kinds of pressures and temptations. Make them aware of the possible disasterous consequences of ingesting mind altering substances. Educate young ones to the alternative methods of building self esteem and developing social skills. Not all drug use leads to dependence or abuse but the risk is greater than most are willing to admit. Yes, it is a moral issue as well as a health issue. No one has proven an individuals mental acuity has benefited from drug use. We don’t need more highway deaths due to substance impaired drivers. We are taken to task by leaders of foreign countries for doing nothing to limit demand of substances that destroy all civil societies. Since, Rick believes in the political exchange of ideas how about demonstrating that we are serous about doing our part and not just shoving if off for someone else to deal with. Rick’s motto could be plant more trees and less pot. Go green, baby.

  10. I have just come in from outside in the morning sun and my eyes are a bit bleary and I have a satisfied smile on my face. I’m so peaceful and relaxed and am breathing deeply and easily. Two Blue Jays in a pine tree are discussing something in harsh terms…which suggests to me that a couple tightly wound people on this post do the same as I did this morning…and light up a nice morning cigar. Just a cigar for me, but I suggest something else if you have it. In fact, since pot is a medicine, it might just be the thing for you.

  11. Jim, what is the point of disrespecting Rick with every new blog entry. Why not get a life and leave this blog alone? For the world’s sake, I hope you don’t leave your home and miraculously lose your internet connection.

  12. Rick…….. We were in Germany for two weeks last summer and used your guidebook to plan our trip. You’re absolutely right; walking to Burg Eltz through the forest is truly a magical experience! In Rothenburg, we enjoyed watching a beautiful sunset from the castel garden following our humerous hour with the Night Watchman. The it was on to zur Holle for a nightcap!

  13. Rick – thanks to you I have experienced almost all of these things with the help of your guidebooks. I remember walking down the streets of Brugge smelling chocolate in the air. We enjoyed exploring Amsterdam (including the coffee shops), hiking to Burg Eltz, and the nightwatchmans tour. These are some of my fondest memories! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

  14. Holy crap, Jim, you must not have much of a life. I don’t read these comments very often, but you’re always on here. You don’t add much. Why don’t you go out and get a life?

  15. This is Jim Humberd, not the Jim that has already posted here, but the complaints sound like what I heard weeks ago, when I posted several times. The reason I think your complaints are about me, is because whoever is now posting as Jim, has only been doing that recently. I have never complained about Rick or his views, I have only posted my response to views of those who complained about Rick.

  16. Rick, you always include Bacharach in your Germany guides. It is now my understanding you cannot get there on DB, rather there is a private carrier Trans Regio. This according to Bahn.de. Is this correct?

  17. Karl, I think you’ll find that Trans Regio stands for regional transport system and is part of the Deutsche Bahn. It serves smaller towns that do not have IC or ICE service. Of course, Bacharach is also served by the many boats on the Rhine, and is well worth visiting.

  18. What is point in Rick disrespecting the travelling public by including his liberal political views like legalizing pot? While some may not agree with Jim’s life I would guess he can at least remember it and does not have to worry about killing anyone while under the influence.

  19. The point is, it is his business, his country and his right to free speech. How about providing examples that Rick can’t remember anything and pop smokers kill?

  20. Rick, do or do we not love free expression and speech? We do not at all mind this very odd range of characters on your blog-myself included. This dialog makes a spicy life sauce. Go, go go whatever your view, and let us tip a glass, or share a toke over in amsterdam one day! We can agree to disagree.

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