As a Lutheran Christian, I learned long ago that the best way to enjoy St. Peter’s Basilica — which I have for 30 years considered the greatest church in Christendom — is to check your sword at the door and accept it on its terms: To enter into that dazzling sanctuary and focus on God (which is the intent of the place).
I inhale the incense, forget about gender issues and “infallible truths” that have been fought over and revised through the years, and ditch concerns about financial priorities and where all the money to build it came from. I see St. Peter’s as an awe-inspiring human work done by faithful people for the glory of God.
I used to get all uptight when I entered that church. I don’t anymore. In fact, a highlight of my Roman visits is to go to Mass at St. Peter’s. (As far as the Eucharist and me being of another denomination…it’s “don’t ask, don’t tell.”) My visits lift my spirits and put me in a great mood.
To a Protestant mindset, complaining about your church leaders is just something we do. And it doesn’t bring thunderbolts. We’re all on the same team, and we Protestants complain as we go because we care.
There’s a fundamental difference between attacking someone’s faith and disagreeing with their denomination’s leaders. It seems to me that, among Christians, only Catholics believe that if you attack the ideas of their human and mortal leader, you’re “attacking their faith.”
I’ve been inspired by many courageous Catholics in our generation. The Catholics of our era I’ve been most inspired by are the priests and nuns who stand by the struggling people of Central America. They threaten the secular order and are routinely excommunicated for their “liberation theology” by Catholic leaders high in that Church hierarchy. They keep on Catholic keepin’ on because they believe a part of their vow of obedience to the church is (in their words) “disobedience to the Church.”
When I am writing, whether or not I capitalize “church” is a big issue. Capital-C “Church” refers to church government — fallible, political, necessary, and well-meaning…but corruptible. In my denomination, for instance, the church is not homophobic but, in many cases, the Church is. When I have friends so mad at God that they purge faith from their lives, they are usually mad at the Church…not the church. That saddens me. I would never take my frustrations with the Church out on the church. The distinction is critical.
I’m inclined to complain about things the Catholic Church does. But I’m not anti-Catholic. I don’t think I’m any more anti-Catholic than those excommunicated priests and nuns in Nicaragua. I’m married to a smart and beautiful woman who is Catholic. She comes from the best family I’ve ever run into. Our son goes to a Catholic university (Notre Dame). I’m in Rome — donating several days of work to the church (not the Church) to produce a video celebrating the life, work, and Christian leadership of the first pope, St. Peter.
The last time I flew south of our border, it was to El Salvador to honor a Catholic bishop. It was the 25th anniversary of the assassination of the courageous Archbishop Oscar Romero. (Read the journal from that trip on my website.) I marched and worshipped with countless Roman Catholics whose faith was stronger than the faith I encounter (in any denomination) in my city. It was a beautiful and inspirational experience.
Strange. I make a point not to comment much on the discussion my blog entries generate. It’s fun to just share an idea and let all the traveling readers of this blog respond. But in this case, I don’t like to be called “anti-Catholic,” and certainly not “anti-Christian.” My work is motivated by my Christian faith. I just have a style of worship named for a priest/professor who enjoyed beer and sex…and married a nun.
I no sooner finished reading the previous post and this one pops up! As a Roman Catholic who doesn’t particularily go to church, I find everyones writings interesting. We all have our own beliefs and the way we excersize them. I may not agree with everyone, but it is truly interesting and educational to read everyones viewpoints. As for Rick, just the other day, I found out I have been a follower of yours for over 10 years. So far, so good. Keep up ther good work!
Rick, just don’t tell the average Lutheran that Martin Luther loved beer and sex. You’re likely to get a severely critical comment like, “That’s not the way I heard it.”
Rick, Thanks for this blog. As a Catholic my whole life I think that there is nothing wrong with questioning the pope and the vatican and remember that no one is perfect. St. Peters is an amazing place, really overpowering in its beauty. enjoy your visit to Rome – such an amazing city!
Hi, Rick!
The approach to Piazza San Pietro, in the Vatican, is awesome.
Our eyes are busy as we walk the Via Conciliazione toward St. Peter’s, trying to take in the most striking features of the Piazza San Pietro — St. Peter’s Basilica with Michelangelo’s dome, and Giovanni Bernini’s colonnade of 284 travertine marble columns that partially encircle the Piazza San Pietro.
Like a pair of parentheses the colonnade encloses a fountain on each side of the Piazza San Pietro, and the obelisk in the center.
The Piazza is always filled with foot and vehicle traffic — taxis, city buses, tourist buses, two Americans in their RV, and people walking by the thousands — including the two Americans after they found a parking place.
It was especially crowded on Wednesdays, when Pope John Paul II held his afternoon audience with the people.
On May 13, 1981, Pope John Paul II was shot and wounded in an assassination attempt, right here.(1980)
Thanks Rick for an excellent blog. As a secular humanist, I find it very awkward for people to get so riled because of differing beliefs. I knew Andy went to Notre Dame and always wondered why he chose that fine institution. Now we know.
Hi, Rick: It was nice to mmet you last week in Westfield. Thanks for the autograph & picture. As I told you, I’m heading off to Paris at the end of the week and now I have a signed guidebook to help me discover Paris. i think your comments a very insightful and perhaps it disturbs people who may only think of you as “The travel guy from TV”. I was raised catholic, but have become turned off by the Church (capital C). It’s interesting how people will attack a thinking person’s questions of church authority as being “anti-christian” and are probably the same who will call you “Unamerican” for being against a fraudulent war. Keep raging against the machine!! Happy travels, Ed
I have finally capitulated and am adding to this blog. The sentence after this might cause some people to stop reading, but please continue just because it might turn out to be different than what you expect. I consider myself to be a hard-core, Bible believing Protestant Christian – by choice, not by environment. Therefore, I have some very strong beliefs concerning many of the ideas in the last two postings. However, I promised myself that if my beliefs could not withstand scrutiny, then I would abandon them. That is why I appreciate Rick’s comments and that they open dialogue on “testy” topics and why I read them all. Thanks to everyone who believes something deeply enough to share; as long as we do that, there’s hope in this world. I hope that you will keep on sharing, and when you find that what you believe can withstand any scrutiny, that you will strive to be grateful, not bigoted. I appreciate you all; keep on sharing!
Right on, Jo!
Just like in your guidebooks, but perhaps more so here in your blog, I appreciate that you always mean what you say and say what you mean, Rick. Keep on traveling and keep on blogging!
Liberation theology is not Catholic theology. So there is nothing wrong in excommunicating someone who chooses to “go in a different direction”. Hell Luther did it right? The Catholic church is not todays church du jour churning out theology based on opinion polls-we have the Democratic party for that. The church thinks long term. The Pope is not infallable-that is yet another ridiculous rumor spread by the liberal anti Catholic media. The Pope is authoratative on matters of theology when he is speaking ex cathedra. And Catholics from all over feel free to criticize and this includes Latin American catholics and Southern European catholics. The Church Police have been out of business for centuries and no one considers it going against the faith to criticize. But there is a lot to be greatful for in strong leadership that stays steadfast to the eternal truths.
I’m not religious, but churches, chapels, and cathedrals are always the first things I visit in a new city. In part for the architecture, but also for the stories and emotion surrounding religion in human history. I guess I see the church as being a place for contemplation of any kind, because of the beauty of the space. You probably won’t run into me at a catholic service though….!
I appreciate your comments, Rick – they are very interesting and thought-provoking. Your respect for the sacred comes through clearly, even among your opinions regarding the Church. I agree with “Chaz” about your straight-forwardness; this is exactly why I enjoy your guidebooks so much. Thanks for your blog.
You begin your blog with the wise observation, “check your sword at the door and accept it on its terms: To enter into that dazzling sanctuary and focus on God,” but then give examples of why you do not accept it on their own terms. You also make one not so-wise interpretation when you call the “Church” homophobic, which is literally fearing homosexuals (an inaccurate interpretation too often made to confuse the issue and demonize a different viewpoint): opposition to a lifestyle if not the same as fear of a lifestyle. The church is not homophobic, but it should and does oppose a lifestyle that many (if not most) believe is immoral. To restate and rephrase your initial observation – be consistent, check your sword at the door, accept the church on its own terms and focus on God. Blessings on you travels and experiences. Thanks for the point of view and for the opportunity for us to share ours as well.
You’re so right about feeling the presence of God in and around St. Peter’s no matter your faith, Rick. I’m a Presbyterian Christian, and I didn’t feel awkward in the least when I visited Rome and St. Peter’s for the very first time last Christmas. In fact just the opposite occured; I felt myself streaming tears as I made my way to the Piazza San Pietro on Christmas Eve. I, along with many others, braved the chilly temps outside the grand church to listen to the beautiful music eminating from within, as well as Pope Benedict’s Christmas homily. Incidentally, I was overcome with the Spirit of God that very evening. This was only about 10.5 months after my late wife died, and the trip was cathartic for many reasons. That Christmas Eve, there was no denominational difference, doctrinal disputing, or cultural barriers with what was happening to me: it was just me, other people and God in prayer for peace on a cool Christmas Eve in Rome. Pure and simple.
Bravo, Rick, well said. On my recent trip to Vienna and Italy, I reflected on the ornateness of Catholic churches. Having grown up in a rather generic churches, it always strikes me so odd to have relics and such ornate churches. But I remember back to something I read in a book about Taoist belief: If you put a rock on the mantel, and bow to it daily, it will eventually be holy to you. So, I look at these churches as an expression of peoples SINCERE expressions of their faith and realize that if nothing else, that makes the site holy. When I set my radar to find that spirituality and combine it with the beautiful art and music, the churches become a wonderful refuge on a vacation. I light candles to honor that and what’s important in my life. I am thankful that they are there and don’t give a flip about their politics and don’t feel the least bit hypocritical about “supporting” an organization that I disagree with. Thanks again for your blog.
I’m an atheist, but on my travels I love visiting churches. You don’t have to be religious to love beautiful and awe-inspiring buildings.
Right on brother Rick. Life is so short – enjoy the best that everyone has to offer, and pray for those whose lives fall short. Most historic old churches are pretty dead affairs anyway. I drove by an old warehouse in Finland (I think it was) and my friend said 1000 Lutherans met there with activities all week. I go to the old Cathedrals to take pictures and wonder where the people went. Obviously “church” is more than a building, it is people with hot hearts.
I agree with Rick. I’m not a Catholic nor a fan of the Catholic Church but I do a lot of volunteer work with a local group that is run by a nun that helps immigrants assimilate into American society. Sister Cora is wonderful and she tolerates my non-Catholicism just fine. To her, actions count more than words.
In the early 1500s, the travertine marble that covered the Coliseum’s walls for 15 centuries was “quarried,†and 2,522 cart loads of marble were used to complete St. Peter’s Basilica.
Uncounted Romans live, work, and worship in buildings constructed with blocks of stone and slabs of marble, from the “Coliseum Quarry.â€
After the signing of the signing of the Lateran Treaty in 1929, Mussolini demolished the neighborhood, at that time called Borgo, and created Via Conciliazione as a spectacular entrance to the Vatican, and Piazza San Pietro.
Raphael’s studio, (the famous painter, and the chief architect of St. Peter’s Basilica) which had survived four hundred years, was among the historical buildings lost by this reconstruction.
The Italian street name Conciliazione, translates to “Settlement†in English, and it sure looks something like the English word “Conciliation.†We think that would certainly fit the signing of a treaty.
Rick You might already know this but the money used to build the colisseum came from scavaging done by Rome in 70AD. Rome took over Jerusalem and stole the artifacts from the Jewish temple. The Jews had acquired the gold, silver,etc. from the Egyptians when they fled with Moses for the Promised Land. Jan
There’s a fundamental difference between attacking someone’s faith and disagreeing with their denomination’s leaders. It seems to me that, among Christians, only Catholics believe that if you attack the ideas of their human and mortal leader, you’re “attacking their faith.†Amen. Pun intended. I have been accused of being a Catholic bigot for criticizing the Pope and certain aspects of Catholicism I feel are outdated o my site. St. Peter’s is beautiful, and certainly an enjoyable experience. I lived in Rome for a year and had many trips back there in the late ’70’s and early ’80’s. We are planning a trip to Europe soon as my wife has never been and she has been watching your show with much interest. Looking forward to reading your blog more.
Pssst, this Assembly of God protestant loves beer….and sex too (with my spouse), and yet neither “undermines” the tenets of my faith…. Just don’t tell my pastor — lol! Another great posting Mr. Steves, very thought provoking. Thank you.
I liked Rick’s website much better when he stuck to travel.He knows much less(or pretends to know less)about the Catholic church than he does about travel.
Rick, perhaps I’m reading this wrong, but it seems you just stated that you took in Mass at St. Peter’s and had the Eucharist, and jokingly implied this was a “don’t ask, don’t tell” thing. HOW INSULTING! The Eucharist is a centerpiece of Catholic belief; it is specifically for Catholics only, and only those Catholics who have passed part of their catechism and taken confession. To insult an entire religion, you participate secretly and make a joke about it. Would you fake a being Jewish to have a bar mitzfah? Would you participate in the centerpiece of Muslim, Hindu, or other relgious ceremonies where only certain members of that religion are allowed to participate, and do so through trickery/lying/faking your way through it? Your ignorance disgusts me. Your religious bigotry is not alleviated by saying, “Well my wife is Catholic, therefore, I can flount their Dogma.” Such a flip answer shows just how disrespectful you are to Catholics everywhere.
Rick, As a practicing Catholic, I am also insulted that you take such a jokingly casual attitude toward the Eucharist, Christ Himself, and that you think nothing of receiving Him while being in disagreement with His Church. Christ prayed that we all be one, but You do nothing to forward His prayer by visiting His churches and joking about how you receive Him fraudulently. Might I suggest that you read and really think about 1 Corinthians 11:27-30?
Well, Rick, pat yourself on the back all you want for not being anti-Catholic and a Christian. Your blog only serves as evidence that, despite your wife’s religious preference and your broad-mindedness in sending your son to a Catholic school, you ARE anti-Catholic in your beliefs – and your willingness to insult all members of that faith. As a matter of fact, your anti-Catholic bashing is just as disgusting as any anti-gay bashing, which you claim to abhor. Your attitude and disregard for the beliefs of millions of people seems as un-Christ-like as you can get – which makes me question why you claim to be a follower of Christ. You may claim to be a Christian but you are as transparent as plastic wrap. Stick with what you know – buying airline tickets – and leave the theological discussions to those who at least know the material.
Rick, as a member of the clergy who shares your denomination: I especially liked your last paragraph. The tone of the piece seemed to be ‘in your face’. I’m not sure if your wrath was generated by attacks from others, or chemically induced. (That 2nd possibility sounds kind of harsh and judgmental–just a gut level reaction from someone who has over-reacted at times.) Thanks for honestly stating what you have observed and learned from your experiences, even when it might not be ‘business prudent’. Like old ML, it’s clear that your conscience is not captive. Thanks also for putting your money where your mouth is on serious, life-changing social ministry in places like Central American and beyond.
Rick, I’m an avid traveler and lifelong Catholic. I really appreciate your willingness to set aside your “sword” and experience the churches and mosques you encounter on your travels. I wish more non-Catholics could set aside their negative and often unfounded stereotypes and just be with God as they know him to be, even if they’re surrounded by statues and incense. However, I must ask, as other commenters have, that if you are considering taking communion, not to do so. My husband was Lutheran when I met him, and it seems to me that from the Lutheran point of view, taking communion in a Catholic church isn’t a big deal. To Catholics, though, it is. The all-important difference is that, to Catholics, the Eucharist is truly Jesus. Receiving Holy Communion means that you share that belief and are “in communion” – Pope, confession and all – with the Catholic church. That’s why non-Catholics are asked to refrain from receiving the Eucharist. Thanks, and keep writing!
Folks, I don’t want to get involved in semantics here but I’v noticed one thing on this blog. A “Catholic” is one who belongs to the Universal Christian Church – Roman Catholics,Protestants including all the various religous groups within Protestanism, etc. A “Roman Cahtolic” is one follows the particular beliefs and policies of the Roman Christian Church in Rome ie. The Vatican. So when people say: “non-Catholics” they are really referring to those around the world who are not Christians! Unless some are inferring that “non-Catholics” are lesser Christians and therefore don’t count.
I completely agree with Jack and Mary’s comment. You can say you’re anti-Catholic all you want, but your words and actions suggestion otherwise (e.g., calling the Catholic church “homophobic”, receiving the Eucharist even though you should know better — assuming your Catholic wife is aware of her faith, she should have made sure you did NOT receive the Eucharist). I was wondering about these anti-Catholic statements you made in your book on London (e.g., the comments about Bloody Mary without an equal mention of the huge number of people murdered under Henry VIII and Elizabeth I — see tyburn convert in london as an example), as well as your snide remark about the Vatican have short hours. This is all very sad and childish. I am very thankful that I did NOT buy one of your books for my upcoming trip, nor will I be purchasing others in the future.