Edinburgh — Half of Scotland’s Wonder in One Urban Bundle

Sure, there’s plenty more to Scotland. But Edinburgh is one of Europe’s most entertaining cities. It seems to hold half of the country’s tourists — and for good reason. The Royal Mile, a leisurely and fascination-filled stroll gradually downhill from the castle to the palace, is one of Europe’s most enjoyable sightseeing walks.

p1-royal-mileEdinburgh’s Royal Mile: Hume and St. Giles – The pride of Scotland — from its philosophers (such as David Hume, depicted in this statue) to its very own Church of Scotland (embodied by St. Giles’ Cathedral, home church of the great reformer John Knox) — shows along Edinburgh’s historic High Street.

p2-nat-galScotland is a pint-sized nation, with just five million people. Its culture comes in easy-to-digest packages, like its delightful National Gallery.

p3-charlieAt Edinburgh’s National Portrait Gallery, you walk through history looking all the famous Scots in the eyes. This is the wannabe king, Prince Charles Edward Stuart. Also known as “Bonnie Prince Charlie,” he was clearly a dandy and a lady’s man (as a good percentage of the men of the Highlands died struggling to put him on the throne in the 1700s).

p4-whiskyWhisky is high on the experience list of most visitors to Scotland. While there are plenty of distillery tours, a visit to a fine whisky shop (like Cadenhead’s, at the bottom of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile) offers a chance to gain an education and have a small bottle filled directly from the cask of your choice.

Scotland Tour, Day 1: First-Night Excitement

Each year we organize and lead about 500 bus tours, and each year I take one of them. This year, Scotland’s up. Taking one of my own tours as a participant (rather than as a guide) is very helpful for many reasons.

I signed up as “Rick Romstad” (by grandfather’s surname, which I think would have been a cool travel writer’s name). But the group had figured me out. (Damn you, Google.) I was struck how, from the first hour, the group and our guide enjoyed a wonderful vibe. So I shot this crude little video, taken even before the lovely food arrived. It captures the energy and eager anticipation as we await our first dinner and kick off 10 days in Scotland together. Stay tuned as I report from the bus as we tour Edinburgh and then head into the Highlands.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Remembering Isaac, the Highlands Roadside Piper

One of the joys of my work is hearing from people I’ve encountered in my travels about how the things we do here as travel writers have impacted their lives. So many Europeans we meet are favorites of mine because of their passion for their culture and their gift for sharing it.

Recently, out of the blue, I received an email from the daughter of a dear man I met on a desolate roadside in the Highlands of Scotland. It was about twelve years ago, when I was scrambling to make a TV show about the Highlands. As if placed there by heaven’s Central Casting, this tender giant of a man was bagpiping to the birds, the passing clouds, and the occasional motorist. He chose a spot that seemed intentionally miles from nowhere. We stopped, and he graciously demonstrated his pipes to us, giving us a tour of that fascinating symbol of Scottish culture. I’ve never forgotten that wonderful chance meeting…and it ended up a fine little part of our TV show.

The piper’s daughter wrote to me just last week, saying, “I want to thank you for the video on YouTube titled ‘Rannoch, Scotland: Highlands Roadside Piper.’ The piper in the video was my father Isaac, who sadly passed away 5 years ago in 2007. I only learned of this video today and was utterly stunned to hear his voice and see him the way he was.” She went on to say how much the video meant to her and that she hoped we’d never remove it, because he was an amazing man and now she can see her father whenever she needs to. Apparently, this is the only video clip she has of her father doing what he so loved to do…play his bagpipes surrounded by the glory of his Highlands deep in Scotland. She said, “I can now see my Daddy any time I like and remember him for the great man he was, and hear his voice and music again.”

It was with great joy that I sent her a DVD of her dad with the entire Scotland show. And it’s with great joy that I share this video clip of Isaac, the Highlands Roadside Piper, with you.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Outraged that Rick Thinks Scotland Was “Quelled” by the Brits

“We Scots will never be quelled!”

 

We say a lot of things in our guidebooks and TV shows. And while we try to be accurate and fair, we don’t shy away from issues that tourist industry advertisers would rather travel journalists avoid. We appreciate the feedback we get from our caring readers, viewers, and travelers. I find that many comments that seem snarky and mean-spirited are a symptom of how people think they need to be shrill to be heard in the din of electronic communication these days, so I strive to not fixate on the volume and try to understand the concern. I recently received a good comment from a Scottish patriot — who must know far more than I do about Scotland’s struggles with England — angry about something I said on TV.

First, here’s an excerpt from the script that offended him:

Scotland’s long underdog struggle with England found inspiration from romantic and almost legendary Scottish leaders. Mary Queen of Scots — educated and raised in France during the Renaissance — brought refinement to the Scottish throne. She was imprisoned and executed by the English. Her memory stoked the irrepressible Scottish spirit. Two centuries later, another Scottish hero, Bonnie Prince Charlie, led the last hurrah in Scotland’s long battle for independence. … Eventually the Scots were quelled and united with England. Enjoying peace, stability, and English investment as the Industrial Revolution swept Britain, many hardworking Scots prospered.

And here’s his response:

As a Scot, I was outraged to hear Rick Steves say on this program that Scotland had been “quelled” by the English.  That did not happen. We had expelled the English from Scotland long before.  Scotland was joined with England because, when Elizabeth I died, she left no children and James the VI of Scotland, the son of her cousin, Mary Queen of Scots, was asked by England to succeed to its throne.  This is known as “the union of the crowns” and the “union of the parliaments” came some time later.  Steves should make a public and abject apology for this insult to Scottish pride!
-Outraged

Dear Outraged: Here’s my public and abject apology. I consider myself a supporter of all underdogs, wherever there are struggles between empires and ethnic groups. In the case of Scotland, I believed that it was a generally one-sided union dominated by London. Far more Scotsmen have died, per capita, than Englishmen in defending the British Empire over the centuries, and Scotland just recently got its parliament back on Scottish soil for the first time since 1707. But I surely am sorry if I insulted Scottish pride. Freeeeeedom!!!

Euro Experiences from NW to SE — Part I

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Let me stoke your travel dreams for 2009 by sharing some of my favorite European experiences, roughly from northwest to southeast. Maximizing the experience is a dimension of smart budget travel that’s just as important in challenging times as saving money. Imagine these…

On Ireland’s Aran Island, feel like the westernmost person in Europe as you lie on a rock with your head hanging over the cliff-edge, high above the crashing Atlantic at the Iron Age fortress of Dún Aenghus.

In Dublin, be the only tourist among 50,000 cheering fans in a stadium for a hurling match—that uniquely Irish game that’s as rough and tumble as airborne hockey, with no injury timeouts.

Belly up to the bar in a neighborhood pub in Edinburgh and drink not beer, but whisky. Ask a local what they like best and why—you’ll find that whisky is as refined as wine, and suddenly you feel like an expert taster.

Hike the best-surviving stretch of Hadrians’ Wall, and picture being posted there back in ancient Roman times to keep out the scary Scots.

Sit in the choir for an evensong service in the York Minster—surrounded by men and boys singing their hearts out for the glory of God today, in a church built for the glory of God hundreds of years ago.

Immersed in the wild and pristine vastness of England’s Dartmoor, trek from the hamlet of Gidleigh through a foggy world of scrub brush and scraggy-haired goats to find your own private Stonehenge. Arriving at a humble stone circle, sit and observe blackbirds and wild horses, and feel the echoes of druids worshipping and then partying right there thousands of years ago.