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Rick Steves’ Travel Blog

Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

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Rome — Eternally Entertaining

When they call Rome the “Eternal City,” I always think “eternal” means I’ll find visiting it fascinating and rewarding forever. At the risk of offending a billion people, I have to say the city’s cuisine is head and shoulders above any cuisine I’ve experienced so far on this trip.

In a city as densely populated as Rome, only the wealthy have a garden. And even then, it’s likely on the rooftop. Strolling, it’s important to look up as well as out. And when you do, you’ll see intriguing rooftop gardens like this.
In a city as densely populated as Rome, only the wealthy have a garden. And even then, it’s likely on the rooftop. Strolling, it’s important to look up as well as out. And when you do, you’ll see intriguing rooftop gardens like this.

In Milan and the north of Italy, it’s long been a tradition for bars to put out little buffets of appetizers which are offered free with a drink during happy hour. The tradition has now traveled south to Rome. Perhaps it’s a sign of the economic challenges faced by local watering holes — and the stiff competition — but now, throughout Rome, you’ll find bars competing by offering enticing buffet spreads free with an €8 drink. That can make for a cheap and tasty light dinner in an otherwise expensive city.
In Milan and the north of Italy, it’s long been a tradition for bars to put out little buffets of appetizers which are offered free with a drink during happy hour. The tradition has now traveled south to Rome. Perhaps it’s a sign of the economic challenges faced by local watering holes — and the stiff competition — but now, throughout Rome, you’ll find bars competing by offering enticing buffet spreads free with an €8 drink. That can make for a cheap and tasty light dinner in an otherwise expensive city.

Lately I’ve been thinking that the caliber of politicians has a determinative effect on the well-being of a society. And poor Italy is really struggling. I have a friend who just told me, “We’ll take your losers. After the election, just send them over to us.” Here, comedians are viable candidates. And, I noticed, the local elections in Rome are featuring people who are nothing more than pretty faces. People seem to just vote for the sexiest poster.
Lately I’ve been thinking that the caliber of politicians has a determinative effect on the well-being of a society. And poor Italy is really struggling. I have a friend who just told me, “We’ll take your losers. After the election, just send them over to us.” Here, comedians are viable candidates. And, I noticed, the local elections in Rome are featuring people who are nothing more than pretty faces. People seem to just vote for the sexiest poster.

Speaking of weak politicians, Benito Mussolini portrayed himself as just the opposite. Given the wacky nature of Italian politics, it’s no wonder out that, out of desperation, many will vote for a bombastic strong man with big promises. Consider Silvio Berlusconi in our times and Mussolini back in the 1920s. When you're in Rome, Mussolini’s planned and futuristic city, E.U.R., is a fascinating place to explore. This "people’s palace" (the Palace of the Civilization of Labor), which comes with statues to fit, says it all: Fascism — monolithic, melodramatic, no questions asked — either you’re with us or you’re against us, superpatriotism. It's potent...and scary. If Hitler and Mussolini had won the war, our world might look like E.U.R.
Speaking of weak politicians, Benito Mussolini portrayed himself as just the opposite. Given the wacky nature of Italian politics, it’s no wonder that out of desperation, many will vote for a bombastic strong man with big promises. Consider Silvio Berlusconi in our times and Mussolini back in the 1920s. When you’re in Rome, Mussolini’s planned and futuristic city, E.U.R., is a fascinating place to explore. This “people’s palace” (the Palace of the Civilization of Labor), which comes with statues to fit, says it all: Fascism — monolithic, melodramatic, no questions asked — either you’re with us or you’re against us, superpatriotism. It’s potent…and scary. If Hitler and Mussolini had won the war, our world might look like E.U.R.
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Testaccio Food Tour

Food tours are trendy and new for me. So, in the spirit of experiential sightseeing, I booked a four-hour food tour of Testaccio. Since ancient Roman times, the Testaccio neighborhood has fed the city of Rome. And it just seemed right to follow a foodie around on a ten-stops-in-four-hours, movable lunch feast. The tour was put on by Eating Italy Tours (see www.eatingitalyfoodtours.com), and I figured it was time and money (€65) well-spent. Our guide was excellent — and knows how to talk fast. Here she is explaining everything that we ate and experienced in less than a minute.

Please share your favorite food tours in Europe.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

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Romecoming: Welcome to Stupid Stuff Sold on the Streets

Arriving in Rome after six weeks in the Middle East was like coming home. It felt great. It occurred to me that I hadn’t had a glass of wine in a month. I fixed that in a hurry. It also occurred to me that, grand as Rome is, it’s also the capital of stupid stuff sold by vendors on the streets. Each year there’s something new. I’m glad the clattering crickets are gone. I miss the flaming Manneken-Pis statues. I can’t imagine anyone buying one of these chemical blobs — but they’re everywhere, so they must sell.

What are your “stupid things sold on the streets” memories, experiences, and (if you dare to admit it) favorites?

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Our Turkish Finale: Quality Time with Ataturk

After the rough and rustic small towns and countryside, we finished our Turkey shoot in the country’s modern capital, Ankara. It feels like a boom town and the traffic was horrific. No trip to Turkey is complete without spending a day in one of its thriving and cosmopolitan big cities.

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, one of the greatest statesmen of the 20th century and the father of modern Turkey.
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, one of the greatest statesmen of the 20th century and the father of modern Turkey.

After six weeks of travel in the Middle East, I’m acutely aware of how important a forceful politician is for emerging democracies. When a country is blessed with a strong and charismatic leader — who is above corruption and pettiness, who can speak to the people as a nation, not as rival segments — the sheer political force of that single person can raise the fortunes of the entire society. And, conversely, a single person not deserving of power can abuse the trust of his or her people and run a country into the ground. The father of modern Turkey is Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Even though he died nearly a century ago, I believe he is the reason for Turkey’s success relative to its neighbors today. And, understandably, you see him everywhere you go in this country. He moved the capital city from Istanbul to the center of the country, to Ankara. I can’t think of a person in the 20th century who had a greater positive impact on his homeland than this man. Can you?

The Mausoleum of Ataturk strives to fit the greatness of the man it is designed to honor and memorialize.
The Mausoleum of Ataturk strives to fit the greatness of the man it is designed to honor and memorialize.
After two weeks of TV production in Turkey with our wonderful van, driver, and local guide Lale, I am spoiled. We’ve never enjoyed such a smooth process. I’m sure it was not all peaches and cream, but for the crew and me, it seemed like every door in Turkey was wide open for our camera. The result: Turkey will be looking really good to a lot of American travelers when our new series debuts in the fall of 2014.
After two weeks of TV production in Turkey with our wonderful van, driver, and local guide Lale, I am spoiled. We’ve never enjoyed such a smooth process. I’m sure it was not all peaches and cream, but for the crew and me, it seemed like every door in Turkey was wide open for our camera. The result: Turkey will be looking really good to a lot of American travelers when our new series debuts in the fall of 2014.
One of the luxuries for me with my crew is that, with Simon, I never need to worry about gear or the safety of our precious footage. The only time I see Simon get religious is when all our hard work is done and stored on a little digital brick that’s ready to fly home to our editing suite. It seems like a long time now since we traveled with cassettes. We’re in the wonderful age of small cameras and everything recorded on hard drives. Two shows fit on one of these orange bricks. We’ve got a backup just in case we need more than Simon’s prayers.
One of the luxuries for me with my crew is that, with Simon, I never need to worry about gear or the safety of our precious footage. The only time I see Simon get religious is when all our hard work is done and stored on a little digital brick that’s ready to fly home to our editing suite. It seems like a long time now since we traveled with cassettes. We’re in the wonderful age of small cameras and everything recorded on hard drives. Two shows fit on one of these orange bricks. We’ve got a backup just in case we need more than Simon’s prayers.
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A Gift of Circumcision Creates a Lasting Impression

If ever you’re making a TV show about village and traditional culture in Turkey, be sure to arrange to film a circumcision. For a few hundred dollars you can hire the band, the doctor, and the horse, and pay for all the pizzas and soft drinks. We even paid for the boy’s prince outfit. From a TV production point of view, it was a marvelous value. And the most beautiful moment for me was the heartfelt thanks the dad gave me as we left. I promised we’d send him a copy of the show as soon as it was finished.

[Clarification: Since I first posted this, several commenters have expressed concern not only that we filmed this event, but that we paid for it. While this probably goes without saying, I want to clarify the circumstances: This rite of passage is an important part of life in this part of the world. In the sense that it comes with a big, expensive party for the entire community, it’s not unlike a bar or bat mitzvah, or a quinceañera. This family would have thrown their party, at substantial expense, whether or not our cameras had been there. But they were generous enough to let us come and share their personal celebration with viewers half a world away, so we wanted to thank them by helping to defray their costs. Of course, we did not film the circumcision itself, but were able to capture the spirit of a cultural celebration that we believe our armchair-traveling audience might find interesting and insightful of a culture that they may never be able to visit in person. ]

Before meeting the doctor, the young man of the hour was having a wonderful time. Here, proud in his fancy outfit, he loads into a decorated car to parade through the village.
Before meeting the doctor, the young man of the hour was having a wonderful time. Here, proud in his fancy outfit, he loads into a decorated car to parade through the village.

A good circumcision comes with a decorated horse and a three-piece band. The extended family, and anyone who hears the commotion and wants to drop by, is welcome. It’s a grand festival.
A good circumcision comes with a decorated horse and a three-piece band. The extended family, and anyone who hears the commotion and wants to drop by, is welcome. It’s a grand festival.

In an hour, the last thing this boy will want to do is straddle a horse.
In an hour, the last thing this boy will want to do is straddle a horse.

A touching moment when the boy, about to be circumcised, is comforted by his mother and the Muslim equivalent of his godfather.
A touching moment when the boy, about to be circumcised, is comforted by his mother and the Muslim equivalent of his godfather.
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We left the family and doctor alone in the home, put the camera down, and joined the party outside. The doctor said things went just fine…but we never saw the boy again.
We left the family and doctor alone in the home, put the camera down, and joined the party outside. The doctor said things went just fine…but we never saw the boy again.