York is arguably the best sightseeing town in England outside of London. I landed at noon at Heathrow, took the express train into London’s Paddington Station, caught the tube to King’s Cross, and hopped onto an express train. Two hours later, I was in the capital of north England: York. By 4 p.m. I was checked into my bed-and-breakfast and heading into the town. It’s a city with a rich history and many dimensions for the visitor. Along with the standard sights, there are ghosts to hunt, riverside walks to enjoy, and fine food to taste.
While ghost walks are little more than goofy entertainment, if any city can claim to be legitimately haunted, it would be York. Consequently, the old-town center is crawling with creepy, black-clad characters leading wide-eyed groups of tourists around on various ghost walks (90 minutes, £5, leaving every night rain or shine, just show up). I spent an evening hopping off and on four different walks to assess them for my guidebook…and woke up screaming at 2 a.m.
Ever since English cyclists started winning the Tour de France and gold medals in the Olympics, biking has been trendy in England. Riverside trails are great for bikers as well as walkers. From York, a fine two-mile walk leads along the Ouse River, over the handsome Millennium Bridge, and back into town. The bridge is delightfully designed with an inviting, reclining-lounge-chair fence.
Tourist towns all over Europe are vying to establish themselves as foodie destinations. While that can be a stretch for English towns, York does amazingly well; the city is teeming with new, creative bistros featuring delightful menus. York’s booming local software industry, its big university, and its popularity with tourists give it a market big enough to keep its chefs busy — and making good money.
Thanks for your comments Rick,
Quite a few years ago, after visiting York by myself, I returned with my young family. It was a very pleasant visit, and my kids were fascinated by it all.
Hi Rick,
I am very interested in the Scottish segment, as I am headed there for the first time in September.
If you get to Glasgow, check out the exhibit at the University paying tribute to a little known Scot, Alexander Wilson. He is the “Father of American Ornithology” and was documenting and drawing North American birds years before Audubon. Also, the National Museum in Edinburgh just opened an exhibit featuring Mary Queen of Scots. Both of these exhibits are for this summer only.
Scotland – check out the dates for the Military Tattoo at Edinburgh Castle – did it in 2010 and rent the tape for the tour of Edinburgh Castle, better than guides since you can stop and reflect. A must is to take the ferry from Turso to the Orkney Island, and tour for a day at the Standing Stones which were featured in the Disney movie – “Brave” , better than Stonehedge and then travel to Skea Brea and the Cathedral in town. It is a don’t miss experience.
We went to England and Scotland in 2009 with a one day stop in York. Wish we’d stayed longer. It’s an amazing city! We plan to go back one day and make it a longer stop. We’ve enjoyed your shows on York and look forward to more. Happy traveling!
My last trip to the UK was 3 weeks but waaay too short to see everything I wanted to see. So in Sept I’ll be returning with more of a focus on the north, including York. Your thoughts, and the others here, make me realize I need to block out more time to spend there. Would you please comment on what’s new to see regarding the Roman cemetery and the new digs? Also, what are York’s highlights for you? Thanks so much! Leslie – Vancouver USA
Thanks for looking into this great are of the UK. York and Scotland are intertwined for me. Many years ago on a train to York with my wife we encountered a couple from York. They were very pleasant, and upon our remarking that we were eventually heading to Edinburgh, they insisted that we stay with their son, who was attending dental school there. It was very strange to get off the train in Edinburgh, call up this total stranger, and tell him that his mother said we could stay at his place! We had a great time, staying in the heart of the city for free. This family personified the friendly spirit that we continuously found on our travels in the U.K.
The food looks wonderful. Sure would be nice to have the names of the restaurants listed.
It looks from the photo that you were upstairs in The House of the Trembling Madness. I had a memorable meal there in early July, 2012. If you update your guidebook information on the ghost tours, I hope you continue to prefer the Haunted Walk over all the others. I was one of only three people the night I went on the tour and it didn’t appear that it would continue much longer given the hordes who cluelessly choose the other ghost walks. I only went on the Haunted Walk but I doubt that any of the others are worthwhile. It appeared to me that the Haunted Walk was the only genuine ghost walk in town.
From the photo, it appears that you are upstairs in The House of the Trembling Madness. I had a memorable meal there in early July, 2012 and returned for an encore the next evening.
Hi Rick. I love this format.
I have noticed in your guide books and other media, many derogatory remarks about English food, and am astonished. I was on one of your tours in Sept and all of us were amazed at how good the food was when compared to other nations. There certainly seems to have been a tremendous upsurge in the interest of cuisine over the last 15 yrs (when I was last there).
Keep the great information coming, we’re great fans
Let’s not forget that Yorkshire will be the site of the Grand Départ of the 2014 Tour de France!