To commemorate the Smithsonian Presents Travels with Rick Steves magazine — now on sale online, and at newsstands nationwide — Rick is blogging about the 20 top destinations featured in that issue. One of those destinations is the Cinque Terre, on Italy’s Riviera.
When I first described and recommended Italy’s Cinque Terre in the late 1970s, there was almost no tourism here. The economy was sluggish…and so were the people. Sitting in doorways seemed to be a major pastime. Menus were humble and in one language. I remember local wine sold in bottles without labels — very cheap and not very good. (And back then, “very cheap and not very good” was just fine with me.) It was a world apart, where few spoke English and the American traveler was rare. Its remoteness was the foundation of its poverty.
Today its remoteness is a draw. The five (cinque) towns are affluent, and the region is a national park. Now it seems to be on the itinerary of almost every tourist in Italy. Fancy restaurants abound, as do boutique hotels. There’s a fascinating metabolism here — because of the prime location, tourism brings locals their livelihood as reliably as the tides bring nourishment to barnacles.
Many Cinque Terre seniors who can afford to live elsewhere, do. They see the rustic nature of the towns as more of a negative than a positive. In fact, a big trend in the Cinque Terre is elderly apartment-owners moving into the big city for a more comfortable place to live out their golden years. They hire Eastern Europeans to manage their apartments, renting to tourists who arrive with each train.
On my first visit to the Cinque Terre town of Vernazza, I couldn’t afford a good restaurant meal. But I met a gentle restaurateur named Lorenzo. I’ll never forget how he looked at me, a scruffy backpacker who rarely was served a hot meal. Knowingly, he said, “Sit. You must be hungry. I’ll feed you.” I sat. And he did. Caring strangers I met in my vagabond days of travel, like Lorenzo, left a lasting impression on me. I think I see people more positively than I otherwise would have, if I had never been in need and never ventured far from home. In fact, perhaps being in need far from home is something more risk-averse people should let happen once in a while.
Shortly after my visit, Lorenzo died — in the prime of his life — a victim of cancer. For twenty years, his daughter Monica has been my best friend in Vernazza. When I look into her piercing eyes, I see Lorenzo’s compassion and love. And I’m happy to bring my groups to Monica’s family restaurant — to eat on the same castle-view perch I did back when Lorenzo wore all the hats in his little restaurant and fed scraggly vagabonds.
Every year, we need to update our guidebook listings on the five Riviera ports that make up the Cinque Terre. Because locals are so eager to get into our guidebook (considering all the business it brings), the Cinque Terre assignment can be a challenge. Like, I imagine, a boxer finds going 12 rounds exhilarating, I find it exhilarating to fend off the wanabees and collect the gems of the Cinque Terre worth recommending.
The powerful appeal of these five unique villages gives an intensity to everything about tourism here. Locals need to make their money (they shut down in the winter), travelers need to have the time of their lives, and I need to get it right for the guidebook. With my hectic research schedule and the busy lives of local chefs, one of my favorite moments is around 11 p.m., when both the chefs and I have finished our work for the day. They sit at bars with small tables facing the sea, having a strong drink and a cigarette. I take a slow walk without an agenda, no camera or notepad…just being in the Mediterranean town of my dreams. All of us are savoring the place we work to share with travelers…a little chunk of Europe that we love, season after season, as much as anyone.
The Cinque Terra in undoubtedly one of the most relaxing places in Europe. As I read your entry, I am reliving our visit to this wonderful area in 2008 on the Best of Europe in 21 days tour. The sights and smells come back in an instant. Impressed in my mind forever. Thank you Rick for including this slice of heaven on your tour.
Mr. Steves, I believe this is one of your all-time best entries. I am determined on my return to Italy to experience the Cinque Terre, whenever that will be.
Oh…and Happy Juneteenth!!
Even though it may be very touristy now,we visited in April 2008, and it was before tourist season and very mellow and beautiful. It was still too cool to swim in April, but it was a beautiful place to hike and relax. I read the other day about a town called Lerici, Italy that is just a little bit south on the coast and only Italians go there, well now that it has hit the internet it is potential the next Cinque Terra.
Rick, your delightful prose transported me to the Cinque Terre as surely as if I had flown there — what bliss to imagine myself seated at Lorenzo’s cafe, surrounded by la dolce vita, gazing out over the azure Mediterranean Sea . . .
hello.. Still though it may be very touristy now,we visited in April 2008, and it was before tourer season and real change and bonnie. It was works too modify to move in April, but it was a ravishing expanse to boost and change. I scan the remaining day virtually a townsfolk titled Lerici, Italia that is honourable a emotional bit southwestward on the seacoast and exclusive Italians go there, considerably now that it has hit the cyberspace it is potentiality the succeeding Fin Terra. lucy Travel News
I value the comments of others when it comes to travel. Because we all have different perspectives. We may be experts or we may be jaded. We might like group tours or we may like to travel solo. We may be younger or we may be older. I’m super sensitive to those who are highly complimentary just as I am to those who are super critical. Those who would like to visit Vernazza and its nearby surrounding towns would be well served if they stayed a few miles away. The local train can take you everywhere along the Cinque Terre and inexpensively. Everything you can find in Vernazza (seacoast walk, views etc) can be found if you stay a few miles away in lower cost, less touristy accommodations. But if you need to see Americans then Vernazza is for you.
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Family and I finally made it to the Cinque Terre and it was the highlight of our European rail adventures from which we are just home. We stayed in Vernazza, ate at Il Pirate Delle Cinque Terre, and had a fantastic visit. Although it’s possible this area will be “loved to death”, I think responsible tourism can prevail and this can be a travelers – and residents – dream area for years to come.
Dear Rick, Could Lorenzo’s daughter be the same Monica who watched over my husband and I for the last 4 days June 27 – 30 like a mother hen? I just read your article and have tears in my eyes as I remember the kind prople of the Cinque Terre. We arrived in Vernazza and followed the map Monica Licari emailed us to Al Castelo Restaurant. 114 steps up to the top of the town! We packed light but it was still a memorable climb. Panting and stumbling into the restaurant the chefs took one look at us and said, “Monica room?” Si, I replied and then our angel appeared. For the next three days she watched over us and I watched her work so very hard. Monice said she stays in a room nearby and every night after the restaurant is closed and her work is done she goes back to her room, closes the door and before she can finally relax for the night she says a little prayer that all her American guests are safe and happy in their rooms. Like I said, a traveler’s angel. Thank you for your efforts to bring this special place to the attention of travelers. We met many fellow tourists and started up conversations because of the little yellow and blue Rick Stevers guide we all had in our hands. Angelo’s Boat Tours, Il Pirate Delle Terre (husband’s favorite place) and Gambero Rossi all continue to deserve mention in your books. The pesto and wine from Enoteca Sotto l’ Arco and the Tuesday morning street market were memorable too. I love the train station in Vernazza half a minute before the train arrives. The breeze is refeshing and reminds me of your TV episode. I looked for you on the platform the first time I experienced that gush of wind from the tunnel. “It is just like Steve said” I told my husband for the hundredth time. WE look forward to all your posts. Thanks for opening up that back door. We have experienced Italy (and France) in ways I don’t believe we could have done without your recommendations. Happy Traveling!
We fell in love with Cinque Terre. We visited the area completely off season, around late December/early January of 2006.The five villages were everything we had imagined: rustic, quiet with gorgeous scenery I have always planned to go back and stay a while longer. Even though, the weather would definitely be more pleasant in Spring and Summer; I would endure the chilly air of December-January but enjoy watching the locals rather than tourists.
We are fortunate to be on our second trip in Europe in as many years, This time headed to Italy , France and England We are very avid fans of Ricks travel show and would not make the trip with the lastest guide books as well as the italy videos Its well worth every cent. Thanks so much for all the beautiful trips .Why wait do it now has become my moto..