I’m recapping a few of the changes to our tours for 2010, following up on our guide summit last month…
Our Heart of Belgium and Holland tour is particularly tuned in to current issues, social issues, and environmental issues. (Our Dutch and Belgian guides love leading it, and I’m seriously considering taking the tour myself.) We deal with challenges facing the EU at its capital in Brussels. We tour a massive dike project to learn about how the Dutch are raising their levies in anticipation of higher seas (people who live below sea level tend to take climate change more seriously than others). And in Amsterdam, we want to hit the hot-button social issues — pot and prostitution. Touring the Red Light District, we make a point to understand the “harm reduction” rationale of having legalized, regulated, unionized prostitution. And we visit a coffeeshop to interview a man who makes his living legally selling marijuana to adults. In 2010, we hope to drop by Ludo’s Paradox Coffeeshop — a mellow, mature, and comfortable place in the charming Jordaan District — for a drink and a Q&A session. While we couldn’t include more than this as a formal part of our tour, those who want more than a smoothie from Ludo will be welcome to stay after, as the Paradox visit is the last organized stop for that day.
Now that we’re staying in the more charming old center of Naples (Piazza del Plebiscito) rather than the gritty train station neighborhood, our guides are more enthusiastic about our time there. Naples offers one of Europe’s most fascinating “urban jungle” experiences, and we’re now able to do it better than ever.
We’ve come up with a clever new plan for our day visiting Pompeii, the ruined Roman city that was buried in ash by a volcano eruption in A.D. 79. First we drive our bus to the end of the road, from where our group hikes to the steaming summit of Mount Vesuvius. After our crater experience, we hit the Pompeii ruins, where our charismatic local guide, Gaetano, meets us. The bus goes into Sorrento without the group (to deposit our luggage at our hotel), and after Pompeii, the group catches the commuter train into Sorrento. From the train station, our guide gives an orientation walk through town, dropping by a famous gelateria for a demonstration and some tasting fun before strolling to our hotel to check in.
For our Best of England tour, we’ve dropped touristy, overpriced, and crowded Warwick Castle, and will stop instead at Ironbridge Gorge to tour the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution. I’ve always felt Warwick was a bit cheesy. It’s one of those historic sights that has completely sold out to an amusement park company, which runs it like a very aggressive business rather than part of England’s patrimony. Ironbridge Gorge, on the other hand is classy, personal, untouristy, and — when you consider that the advances made here provided the foundation for British industrial dominance in the 19th century — quite a thrill to see and understand.
The plan in Britain was to zip directly from one pristine natural wonder to another: rushing from North Wales to the Lake District to visit the national park center at Brockhole, then take a steamer ride on Lake Windermere en route to our two-night home base in Keswick. Instead, for 2010, after leaving Wales, we’ll spend the middle of the day eating “candy floss” and taking white-knuckle rides in Blackpool for the “Coney Island of England” experience, and then arrive late in the Lake District. After the tackiness of Blackpool, the magic of the pristine lakes will be even more vivid. By cutting out a little redundancy, we’ll enjoy an entirely different slice of the English sightseeing pie.
Also in Britain, we’ll say goodbye to our “coach” (tour bus) upon arrival in York to avoid an extra day of bus rental. Then we’ll spend that money on train tickets for the group into London, which will get us there in two hours (rather than four hours by bus). Arriving at London’s Kings Cross Station, we stow our bags on a different bus, tour the British Library (which is just across the street from the station), then enjoy a full four-hour introduction tour to London by bus. The cost to us is roughly the same, and we’ll save two hours in transit, enjoy an English train ride, and take full advantage of the time saved to get a substantial bus tour of London before finally arriving at our hotel thoroughly oriented.
I am thrilled with how our Best of Turkey tour connects our travelers with Turkish culture in intimate ways other tours do not. For example, I love the casual sit-and-talk time with the imam in the extremely remote and untouristy central Turkish town of Güzelyurt. I wanted to promise this in our promotional literature, but we decided it’s an example of travel magic that can’t be institutionalized. The same is true of visits with a “whirling dervish.” Much as I’d like our groups to meet with a dervish to hear him explain why he whirls, this is not something that can be done routinely and on a strict schedule with a tour group. Some of my most vivid and wild memories of Turkish travels are in the public baths, or hammam. I was disappointed when I heard that our hammam visits had become “optional.” My guides convinced me that, much as we like to get our travelers out of their comfort zones, we can’t force people to go to local baths. American modesty is quite strong. We can enable people to enjoy this…but I agreed that it shouldn’t be an included part of the tour.
Also in Turkey, I find visiting the House of the Virgin Mary near Ephesus fascinating without getting too hung up on whether or not she actually lived there. I learned that visiting the house is actually controversial on our tours. People either believe she lived here, or they don’t, and to present it either way tends to anger half the group. So, rather than include it as a standard part of our schedule in 2010, we will leave it as an option for those who want to believe it — and help those who stay to tour it easily get back to the hotel with a taxi.
It’s taken a lot of time and effort to brainstorm, debate, and implement all of these tour itinerary changes. But my staff and I are confident than in 2010, our tours will be more experience-packed than ever.
THE GOOD: training it to London; take our own baths in Turkey. THE BAD: any questions to an imam about Armenian genocide charges against Turkey currently working their way thru the U.S. Congress; THE UGLY: Paradox revisited: Dropping touristy, overcrowded, overpriced Warwick Castle for touristy, overcrowded, overpriced Blackpool & the key issue in Brussels involves the valuation of the Euro and whether economically devastated Spain, Portugal, Greece should have ever had it in the first place – not something tourists want to visit Brussels to learn, zzzzzz. THE TITILLATING: Pot and prostitution in Amsterdam. The demographic make-up of that tour will be fascinating: the voyagers at the Franks house and the art museums – the voyeurs window shopping. NEVERTHELESS, Rick’s lead guides can be superb in my experience and perhaps their ability to make independent judgments based on the composition of each group they lead could produce exceptionally gratifying results. Time will tell. Bon voyeur, i mean voyage.
It would interesting to see how guides could enliven a tour of the European Quarter of Brussels, which to me, is the single most boring neighborhood of an otherwise vibrant, fascinating city. I’m guessing a lively discussion of the European Common Agricultural Policy or the Lisbon Treaty would be a tough order for the average American (or even European!) tourist. Maybe it would be more fun if everyone on the tour group had a few rounds of Chimay beforehand…
Couldn’t agree more with Bill about replacing Warwick with Blackpool! Only possible reason to visit Blackpool is for the illuminations (I grew up in England). Why not Coventry cathedral? (Opportunity to talk about WWII.) Or Chester? Or even Liverpool?
I too agree about the Warwick change. Blackpool sounds good and I have always to go to Chester. Another day in London would always be a good change.
As George Washington could tell you (if he were to be reincarnated as an RS lead guide – I’m coming back as an RS bus driver myself), “illuminations” are what we Americans call today the Fireworks. And the pot patrol in Amsterdam reminded me that one of the more common tricks by drug wholesalers in the U.S. today is to send half dozen packages of pot via FedEx- without a signature required-to 6 residential homes whose occupants are completely unaware and innocent of any wrong doing and who work during the day. The wholesalers monitor or track the shipment on the internet and when FedEx drops off the MaryJane, they pick it up before the residents get home. If one or two packages goes astray, no big deal. They still make big bucks.
Wonderful idea adding the Ironbridge Gorge to the itinerary. I think many Americans will be fascinated by the history and delighted at the beauty of the surrounding areas. Cheers for including this area before everyone does!!
illuminations” are what we Americans call today the Fireworks” – wrong! The illuminations involve over a million lamps – see http://www.visitblackpool.com/site/illuminations and wikipedia – and are only on show for a month in the fall.
Running a tour must be ingredible. How do you deal with all the needs and wants that Americans seem to have. I have been researching my trip to Ireland that I am taking in a couple months, and when I was reading peoples opinions on the help line about hotels. One of the B&B oweners were defending a critical guest, and she mentioned that they hung all their laundry to dry in the room and it ruined the carpet and they had so much work do do the fix the room. She would have even done their laundry if they had asked her about doing laundry. So maybe in countries of high moisture it is not a good idea to suggest we save money by bringing a clothes line and laundry soap!
Well, Judy, it wouldn’t be the first time I was ever wrong :)
Nothing wrong with doing your own laundry, but you need to hang it in the bathroom, not the bedroom. If you’re sharing the bathroom, you ask where to hang it – usually it’s somewhere outside, where it will dry a lot faster than indoors.
I really think you are missing an opportunity by not including Manchester on your tour of the UK; suggest a tour of the industrial museum, along with the canals in the area where the industrial revolution really started, and then a stop on “curry mile” with it’s glorious selection of Indo/Pakistani restaurants with the streets draped in lights like going into a carnival midway. Lastly, check out Akbar’s, which is across the street from the museum which can(and probably would) seat a whole group for an fabulous Indian feast.
A very interesting post, and all of the comments have been insightful and thought-provoking. A thought about the hammam: during my week in Istanbul last November, I visited the Ca?alo?lu Hamamm? for that quintessential Turkish experience. I have no regrets, though I admit, having a another man lather up my nearly naked body and scrub me down rigorously is a close encounter I would not have anywhere else. Setting aside my inhibitions, I acquiesed as local Turks have done for centuries..and it was awesome. (Yes, I brought my own kese.) It’s kind of a shame some people in the tour group had so much of a hangup about it. But hey, you can lead a horse to water (or in this case, steam)…
I took the GAS tour a couple of years ago and loved it but wont take the heart of Belgium and Holland any time soon. With all of the wonderful history, culture, architecture etc. that is waiting to be explored and learned that I cant find where I live, spending time on social issues isnt why I go to Europe. Not discounting these issues which are very important, I can read about or experience them on the streets of Seattle and talk to experts here in the USA. Seeing the huge dike project would be interesting (even though I feel there is a higher pecentage of chance that water coming over the dikes would be caused by a strong wave reaction to earthquakes than that of climate change) and I know they have a progressive attitude toward these issues but visiting dope shops and red light districts is time wasted in my opinion in those beautiful countries. They have such a rich history and culture that is different from mine and I would rather spend the time learning about that while I am there.
I value RS ETBD’s need to earn a Reasonable profit while providing a desirable service to a market large enough to grow the business. And I can visualize the challenge along those lines put to guides at the January 16, 2010 meeting. It may be analogous to what is going on in many other organizations: think outside the box in order to benefit yourselves (your jobs) as well as help the business. This can’t be an easy mission if Rick’s core customer base is about repeat business. Folks like that don’t want to be short-changed and some have become jaded after many previous tours. Yet they provide the word of mouth and third party testimonials which represent much of Rick’s marketing success. Probably each tour location has appeal for a different type customer (a first timer might choose Italy or England, a repeater maybe Istanbul or Bulgaria or Tallin) but each tour should stand on its own from a profit standpoint sooner vs later. Yet the customer has to see value in the tour or profitability won’t be sustainable. Reading between the lines of RS’s blogs, I sense this is an increasingly important key issue.
OK call me stupid but what is the GAS tour!?!
On Rick Steves tours, “GAS” stands for “Germany, Austria & Switzerland”.
I loved Warwick Castle but agree with everyone else that Chester or Coventry would be good. I particularly enjoyed Brighton as well. On the magical mystery tour to the pothouse I am disappointed this was added…most people who go on these tours that I have had contact with are on the more conservative side alot of teachers and professionals and not 20 somethings looking to get high. Who cares about prostitution we see it enough in the US I would rather see Rembrants house-which was very good. I love your tours, I love your tour guides but the whole pot and pro things turns me off…I had bewn thinking about that tour but maybe not if that is what is considered a learning experience
I don’t know why you would ever want to include Blackpool! Honestly, it is somewhere the majority of British people would avoid, and if you want tacky you can get that anywhere – you don’t need to travel half way across the world. Chester is absolutely lovely, and Liverpool and Manchester have interesting histories making them much more worthwhile stops. And I second the curry mile suggestion, great food and atmosphere.
Thanks, Rick! I love reading about all of these practical changes, & reminiscing about the places themselves. The changes sound like they’re for the better!
Although I kind of liked the cheesiness and the view of he river Avon from the ramparts I think you could drop Warwick, but I think that Blackpool is an awful waste of time. Add Chester; I’ve stayed there twice, it’s small enough to be comfy. Although the “mideval” rows are Victorian the wall and fort were originally built by the XX Legion. I might add the Wedgwood Factory in Stokes, too. I know you try to avoid endorsing commercial firms…but their museum is wonderful and the China industry represents a large piece of English history.
Our Heart of Belgium and Holland tour is particularly tuned in to current issues, social issues, and environmental issues. Good grief! These are the reasons I have to travel…to get a little relief from these oppressive issues.
Rick- would recommend including local soccer matches whenever possible. Often, with teams not in the top division, fairly inexpensive, enjoyable and a great way to see some local color.
Blackpool could go either way… we had a lot of fun there with two children, but our British friends thought we were nuts to go there. It certainly is a slice of life in modern Britain. To me the more travel done by rail the better.
Rick, keep tweeking and telling. Loved the crosstalk about blackpool/warick, have been to both, so please choose chester/liverpool/manchester instead. Ironbridge is wonderful, but very difficult to reach on-our-own, yet an easy site by bus tour. Please, please use local guides where possible, whatever the added fees-they are worth every pound, euro, or turkish lira. Larry from springfield.
Dear editor, please ban KathyM for further comments. I, and I’m sure others, have grown so very tired of her comments over the years.