I’ve been hard at work updating my “Travel as a Political Act” book and I’d love some help from my traveling friends who are familiar with Turkey.
I’m rewriting the chapter on Turkey to include information about the 2016 coup attempt there — and the extreme reaction to the coup by President Erdogan.
You can read the rough introduction to the chapter below. And, if you are up to date on Turkey, I’d appreciate your suggestions on how to better describe the changes brought on by what seems like a dictator in the making. What’s it like for the locals and for tourists in Turkey now? What’s Erdogan up to? Thank you.
Turkey and Erdogan
My Dad used to be absolutely distraught by the notion that God and Allah could be the same. Years ago, I couldn’t resist teaching my toddler Andy to hold out his arms, bob them up and down, and say, “Allah, Allah, Allah” after table grace just to freak out his Grandpa. Later, rather than just torture my Dad, I took a more loving (and certainly more effective) approach to opening him up to the Muslim world: I took him to Turkey. Now — while he’s still afraid of ISIS — my Dad is no longer afraid of Islam.
While violent Islamic fundamentalists represent a tiny fraction of all Muslims, the threats they pose are real. And they get plenty of media coverage. To help balance my understanding of Islam, I make a point to travel there and learn about its reasonable, mainstream side.
Just as Europe and the US are dealing with rising populism, nativism, and fear-mongering politicians looking for an excuse to cut down on freedoms and amp up their military and local forces of “law and order.” And just as pluralistic secular Western governments are dealing with fundamentalists in their society that would prefer to see sins treated as crimes and their style of prayer in school, Muslim nations have that same dynamic. In fact, the challenges, while similar, are more extreme in much of the Islamic world.
I have long loved traveling in moderate, Western-facing Muslim countries such as Turkey and Morocco where embracing secularism was not seen as being anti-Muslim but simply the mark of a modern democracy. Visiting moderate developing nations which happen to be primarily Muslim gives us a safe and fascinating look at our globe’s fastest-growing religion, practiced by more than 1.5 billion people worldwide. Through travel, we can observe Islamic societies struggling (like our own society) with how to navigate through a rough-and-tumble globalized world. In doing so, we gain empathy.
I have long considered Turkey one of my favorite countries and a good classroom in which to better understand our world and its struggles. Through my company, I’ve offered (and guided) tours of Turkey through good times and bad since before the first Gulf War (in 1990). We’ve followed Turkey’s torrid modernization, its battles with separatist Kurds, and its internal tug-of-war between modern urban secularists and traditional more rural fundamentalists. And, for many years, I’ve worried with my Turkish friends about the slow yet persistent drift to the political right and the rise of Islamic fundamentalism in that country that has always taken great pride in the modern constitution given to it by its founding father, Ataturk. Then, in 2016, a failed coup attempt gave the country’s president the opening he needed to become its dictator.
Erdogan vs. Secular, Pluralistic Turkey
Turkey is not living in Mr. Rogers’ neighborhood. Ten percent of its society is Kurdish and many Kurds have aspirations to secede and join an independent Kurdistan. Just as rich and powerful forces push a right wing and fundamentalist agenda in the USA, powerful and wealthy forces are pushing a right-wing and Islamic agenda in Turkey. For a decade I considered Turkey a model of balancing the needs of a strong leader with Western ideals of pluralism and secularism. And for years, Muslims in neighboring countries dreaming of a more democratic system looked to Turkey for inspiration and as a model. But gradually it became clear that Turkey’s leader, Recep Tayyip Erdogan, had a different vision: to make Turkey less free and more Islamist. The constitution, given the modern state of Turkey at its founding in 1923 by Ataturk, anticipated such a leader. In fact, that constitution called for a strict separation of mosque and state and even required the Turkish military to overthrow its own president if ever he violated that tenet (which they’ve actually had to do on several occasions).
Turkey’s President Erdogan needed an excuse to declare a state of emergency and establish his more authoritarian rule and he got it in mid-2016. On July 15th, 2016, a faction of Turkey’s military attempted a coup (apparently to stop Erdogan’s over-reach). It failed and Ergodan responded with a harsh crackdown. Erdogan declared an extended state of emergency, replacing leading generals, silencing professors, shutting down the press, and locking up thousands of western-minded Turks. He essentially criminalized his political opposition. Before the coup attempt and all the purging, Ergodan — during his attempt to get Turkey admitted to the EU — was praised for supporting religious freedoms and civil rights. Suddenly, it was all different. The leaders of the military were replaced by Erdogan cronies. The military and the judiciary, both counted on for their defense of secularism, were effectively silenced. Erdogan moved to stop the public from organizing. He blocked or limited internet access and social media. Turks were arrested on charges of simply insulting the president. Erdogan, named by the European Voice newspaper “European of the Year” in 2004, had now moved Turkey — its populace thoroughly frightened and silenced — closer to a Muslim autocracy.
For many years the predictable question I’d get from loved ones is, “Why are you going to Turkey?” With each visit to Istanbul, one of my favorite cities in the world, my thoughts were: Why would anyone not travel here? Now, with the darkness of Erdogan settling on 70 million Turks, Western tourism is essentially dead in a country where it once thrived. Hotels are shut down, squares that thrived with guests from around the world are quiet, and there’s barely a foreigner in sight. From a safety point of view, I would be totally comfortable visiting Istanbul. I’d receive a warm and eager welcome. But I’d be sad, as the free spirit I expect to find in Turkey would be in hiding.
This chapter shares favorite moments I’ve enjoyed over the years in pre-Erdogan Turkey. The lessons are true as ever. And hopefully, when the spirit of Ataturk retakes its rightful place as the guiding light of the Turkish people, we’ll be traveling there again soon.
Seems to me more could be made of the dwindling press freedom. Many journalists have been jailed as being too soft on the opposition and hence are supporting terrorists. From here it would seem that the Turkish press was offering some balance in their reporting.
There is a lot of info around about this and encourage you to expand on this point. Pretty evident these days about the value of a free and independent press.
Having said this our RS tour to Turkey several years ago was wonderful.It would be great to revisit Turkey but they are, for the moment,on my personal boycott list.
I first went to Middle East as a 14 yr old kid in 1970. I would not be concerned visiting Turkey today. The guys at the top in Russia, Iran, America and Turkey may despicable but the vast majority of Russians, Turks, Arabs, and Iranians are as good as any in the USA and often lots more fun.
I plan on going to Egypt next year for the opening of the new Grand Egyptian Museum. I can’t think of a good reason to go to Pakistan or Libya though.
I suggest you read the book by “the CIA’s Nostradamus” Bruce Bueno de Mesquita titled ‘The Predictioneer’s Game: Using the Logic of Brazen Self-Interest to See and Shape the Future’. Theres lots of similarities between Erdogan’s state of emergency and the Bush/Cheney state of emergency of 2004 and what oligarchs everywhere often resort to.
Way to go Rick!! Always intelligent & insightful. I see you are also targeted here by the “Trumpists”.Sadly,politics, like religion has many blind believers….”Do not attempt to fool me with the facts,,,I KNOW THE TRUTH”.
As somehow who deeply loves Turkey and the Turkish people and who lived into Turkey for over 30 years, I have always appreciated the positive focus Rick Steves and his tours have brought to Turkey. I have greeted friends in Istanbul who were on these tours and other tours and have heard of the insights they gleaned. Though I agree with some of his points, I must differ a bit on other points. With the establishment of the secular Republic of Turkey, Ataturk found it necessary to severely crack down on religious expression. For centuries the Ottoman Empire had been the caliphate and dominate power in the Islamic world. This waned over time. But well into the 1990’s my devout Muslim friends found total freedom of religion beyond their reach. Secular Turks worried that Turkey would become another Iran and worried that a reassertion of Islamic influence would curb individual freedoms. This sentiment simmered and erupted when Erdogan headed the party that came to power. Due to economic success and a seeming willingness to work within secular parameters the AKP was able to garner both internal and external support. But power corrupts as the expression goes and Erdogan began seeing himself as a new Turkish sultan.
A narcissist starts to believe he or she is indispensable to the future and Erdogan is certainly no exception. He over reacts to criticism, bullies those who do not agree with him, harasses, shutters and arrests his opposition. It is true Gulen followers were numerous and well placed in all aspects of the judiciary, police, military and business community. Their ultimate goal is something I fear to speculate about. Erdogan was well aware of their placement in all avenues of life because he was able to achieve some of his goals with Gulen’s help. Whether the coup was engineered by Gulen or manipulated by Erdogan or a combination of both is something I cannot say, but the ultimate outcome has given Erdogan the power he has needed to subdue opponents and take another step toward ultimate power. He wants to “make Turkey great again” and wants to be at the head when this occurs.
Forces have been unleashed that have inflicted terror and fear. People fear speaking out for the most part for people want to keep their heads low, to survive and raise their families and live what ever part of normalcy they can. It is the extreme of developments that are occurring in other parts of the world, including the rise of hate crimes in our country of the USA.
It is not a time to go and hang out in touristic areas. I plan to spend a month in Turkey with friends in August because Instill care deeply about them. One can only think “if only the secularists had been more accommodating” or “if only Ataturk’s brilliant reforms had not calcified but how grown with some flexibility” or “if only …” , but being understanding of those who others has never been a strong human trait. Fear of the other plus regional instability plus years of foreign interference have set the world stage for such a time as this. My heart grieves and nothing is as black and white as it appears.
I am posting as anonymous because of the real danger to myself and others.
First of all, several general points not related to my own story:
– many, many Turks truly support and adore Erdoğan. This should be mentioned and maybe you could try and understand why
– more should be made of press freedom
– Erdoğan, to many who oppose him, is a dictator not an Islamic dictator. By that I mean that coming from a western perspective you perceive what he is doing in terms of Islam. Your perception of him is in terms of the Islamic ideals he leans towards. Look behind that. There have been more restrictions imposed under Erdoğan against freedom of speech than there have about dress or alcohol or prayer. It is not enough to oppose him simply because he is a Muslim and he has raised the price of alcohol. His abuse of power is not connected to Islam. It is simply an abuse of power.
– the current, horrific and systematic oppression of the Kurds needs to be mentioned. Going back for several years under Erdoğan. Turkey has just been accused by the UN of crimes against the Kurds. And so much more than that happens and is never reported because no one dare.
– I was going to post about my personal experiences in the New Turkey, but I have decided I am too afraid to do that.
I am a Turkish-American teacher working at a school with about 9 other foreigners (mainly Americans and Brits). I decided to move to Istanbul last year, and yes the coup attempt was a shock.
There is a true concern for journalists and academicians. I also don’t know what the upcoming referendum will bring.
However, beyond that, I don’t see a true change. Other foreign teachers at my school have no Turkish roots or background and yet live their life easily and without any concerns.
We are all careful around national holidays and/or political rallies etc and avoid city centers. Other than that, Istanbul, as always, gives you what you want whether that’s a night life or a cultural life. We all use public transportation and still go out as usual. Various neighborhoods have different norms, and it may be helpful to know these.
My advice for anyone wanting to travel to Istanbul would be as always: Be aware that you are in a big city. Also if you don’t want to put yourself in danger, do not participate in rallies etc…
Hope this is helpful.
Thank you Rick, this is a time to educate not intimidate people about the world we live in. We cannot keep going back to this same rhetoric that we tend to keep spouting over and over again. The world and our own country has tremendously changed. We are not going to force the left to believe in the right and visa versa. This attitude is really not going to get us any where. We are facing a very heavy situation, if you look back we are actually living what this country was like in the 1930’s when Pearl Harbor happened and that was because we were too busy fighting with each other and trying to close ourselves in and not wanting to participate in a world view. And consequently we were not ready and were attacked. History will repeat itself if we do not pay attention to the past.
I have been to Turkey many times. We have had wonderful times in Istanbul and have always felt safe.
About 10 years ago, we built a holiday home near to Fethiye in the south west. The whole experience was positive and we came to love Turks for their openness and kindness. Until last year, our home was always fully booked for the season but bookings have fallen off a cliff. While this is understandable I guess, I feel so sorry for the people who work in the tourist industry.
We will survive, we will enjoy our property and will share it with those travellers who are ‘brave’ enough to visit this wonderful country. However, I fear for the future and wonder what will happen after the referendum. The moderates will likely be swept away and Erdogan will have complete power.
I think your opening chapter is measured and insightful. I hope that you will be able to lead tours to Turkey again very soon.. Thank you.
Hi Rick,
The coup attempt was probably designed by Erdogan because he ended up being the only winner. The attempt was carried by a handful of officers loyal to Gulen Movement which fell for it. He succeeded to wipe out both the Gulen Movement and the Armed forces which still had some power to stop him. I was in Ankara during the bombing, half a mile from the parliament. It seemed like an episode from Keystone Cops.
What are Erdogan’s intentions? He is a cleric with madrasa education (In Turkey they are called İmam Hatip schools) who once said that the democracy was a tram to be abandoned when you reached your destination.
As opposed to Jesus Christ, Muhammed is not a good shepherd but a policeman to enforce God’s (Allah) laws. Koran is where the laws are and again as opposed to Bible, it is not a guide book to a spiritual life of but a both criminal code and a constitution. It covers every aspect of daily life and Moslems also believe that everything ever invented and will be invented is written in the holy book.
Since it is also a constitution there lays the dilemma. Orthodox Moslems have to choose between Allah’s laws and the non-believers’ laws imposed to them by the West. Since no country can have 2 constitutions, for devout Moslems the choice was clear. In Pakistan and Afganistan for historical reasons, it is clearer. In Turkey Army always made sure that there was only one secular constitution. However, this was really never accepted by the majority of the people and as soon as the Army lost its power they took over. This is the group Erdogan represents.
Erdogan once said that a true Moslem can never be secular. If you look from his point he is right.
He is corrupt and ignorant pathological liar who will do anything and everything to stay in power and protect the incredible fortune he and his family amassed.
Thank you for beautiful programs about Turkey and the many ethnic groups who live there.
Best regards
Mehmet
I’ve been to Turkey four times, interestingly the first time on the RS tour in October 2002, when Erdogan’s party first came to power. Over time, I could figure the direction the country was going by my discussions with various Turks, and also as it became increasingly difficult with each subsequent trip to get a drink, even an Efes beer.
Hi Rick,
You’ve covered the downsides of Erdogan’s administration (of which there are many) succinctly. However, as someone mentioned before me it is worth noting that he has a very large and powerful base of support within Turkey. A part of Erdogan’s enduring power is also the lack of a cohesive and respected opposition. Turkish friends of mine who are by no means Erdogan supporters nor Islamists mentioned that with the shock and chaos going on during the coup they were ‘never happier to see his face come on the TV’. There’s an enormous sense of instability and — for better or for worse — he had seemed to be the only one capable of keeping a lid on things. Perhaps this illustrates some of the reasons why he continued to be elected and even reluctantly supported by liberals in recent years.
It’s painful to see tourism struggling so much in a country that is still relatively safe to travel to. I’d end your analysis on a slightly more positive note to encourage travelers to understand the situation but continue to visit this wonderful country.
Thanks for everything you do, Rick! I’m a big fan.
Very informative update. The press had failed to explain what was behind the coup, now it’s more clear to me. In your chapter, there could be a little nuancing where Ataturk was concerned. Even though he did modernize Turkey (taking the country from the shattered Ottoman Empire to a modern secular republic complete with women’s rights), he did so with an iron fist, by force. So, like many countries in the world, there’s that legacy of the “strong man” operating without or despite a representative assembly. Even so, to me it’s terrible to see the current regime rolling back Ataturk’s secular legacy. I’ve always thought Turkey ought to be the beacon of the middle east and the bridge connecting east and west.
Istanbul is such an amazing place. The Turks are so wonderful. ..even the cd