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I just spent 10 days in a car exploring Britain. I forgot to note the mileage, but I started in London, scoured the Cotswolds, toured North Wales, and then drove up north to the Windermere Lake District (near Keswick), before returning to London. Total cost for diesel: £120 (about $185).
For the first time, I really took time to hike in the Cotswolds and the Lake District. And when I think back on the highlights of the last 10 days, those hikes were it. Nothing too demanding — just hiking through farmland from Stow-on-the-Wold through the Slaughters to Bourton-on-the-Water and back in the Cotswolds; and up along Catbells, high above the lake called Derwentwater in the Lake District.
The point: I can’t imagine a better way to spend three hours in a day. Every day has three hours to spare. What else is so important between 4 o’clock and dinnertime? With these walks, I take home vivid memories.
In the Cotswolds: farms in action viewed from behind, ducks rudely butt-up in millponds, rabbits popping up in fields like some video game challenge, ancient wind-sculpted trees, wet and slippery kissing gates, and slender slate church spires marking distant villages where a hot cuppa tea awaits.
In the Lake District, I struggled up and over Catbells — a ridge walk I’ve recommended for years (and felt guilty having never actually hiked). The weather almost kept me in. But I was glad I ventured out — the wind “blowing the cobwebs out” (as my B&B host warned) once atop Catbells ridge, the comedic baa-ing of sheep, being the stick figure on the ridge for those observing from distant farms or boats on the lake…as others have always been the stick figures for me.
And, oh, the joy of a pub after a good hike. Studying the light on ruddy faces while sipping the local brew in a pub has always been part of the magic of travel in Britain. When your face is weather-stung and your legs ache happily with accomplishment, the pub ambience sparkles even better.
About the weather: In Britain, you don’t wait for the weather to get good. Blustery weather is part of the scene. Consider it a blessing. The majority of “bad weather” comes with broken spells of brightness. Don’t get greedy — you wish for and are thankful for brightness, not sunshine. As they say here, there’s no bad weather…just inappropriate clothing. And if you’re in a hiking area and your clothing is inappropriate, your B&B host can likely loan you a heavy coat (along with the best local map).
Hiking along the ridge, with the weather — like a dark army — storming overhead, the wind buffeting in my ears, my camera bulging but dry under my coat, and a commanding 360-degree lakes view…makes me want to turn cartwheels.
Someone with heavy-handed editing (like on the previous post) is taking all the fun out of this blog!
I agree about the weather. When we were in Ireland in May it was cold and breezy even windy at times, no rain, but we wore a coat and hat and really didn't become a problem at all. I think hot humid weather is much worse when trying to hike and get from place to place.
There are too many Yanks ruining things here. I was hoping that you all would stay at home, given the crap way your economy is going. If amerikkka is so great, why do you not just stay there. We don't need your worthless tourist dollars.
What a surprising, and enjoyable, post. I've always found your books to be a bit un-outdoorsy. Some of the parks and walks you say to devote and hour to end up taking several hours. Nice to know that you are enjoying the great outdoors and some fresh air.
Great post that brought back wonderful memories of our hikes in the Cotswolds, and the pub "visits" at the end of the hike. We hiked on Chrismas day one year, and discovered the first drink at each pub was "on the house". Great way to celebrate the holiday!
Rick: We hardly ever agree on politics……. but……this is what you do best. We do agree on some things. Thanks for the memories.
Wikipedia has a 360 picture from catbells.
I just finished Bill Bryson's "Notes from a Small Island", and his walking + rain + sheep + pub sounds very similar. I want to go!
I've done the Catbells hike, based on your writing. Didn't realize you'd never done it! I stayed at Birkrigg Farm in Newlands valley, and loved the hike, also one round part of Derwentwater. But I grew up in England, and the quintessential Lake District hike is Helvellyn – not sure I'm up for that these days though, lol.
Now, you need to walk in Scotland. When you walk in highlands whether it's around the loch or up the brae, you see wonderful views and if you're in company with other inevitably have good conversation. And, yes, at the end of the day, there is nothing better than a good pint of ale in a friendly pub. Pam
Good Lord, Dr. Kuhmann!!
The picture is heavenly. Good genie, whisk me there NOW!
Beautiful post.Nice photograph shared.
Dr. Kuhman's wife must be really old if she was admitted to Trinity along with Charles Darwin and Isaac Newton. And, of course, as he himself has admitted, The Duke of Edinburgh never went to any college or university.
Great post.
The Cotswolds is an area worth exploring further. We returned earlier this weeks, having spent 3 weeks in the UK, of which only 4 days in this area. The sites are beautiful and the people amazing. And lifting a pint always a great experience. One must take advantage of the 'public foot paths' which make there way throughout England.
Your blog brought back great memories of my day hikes in and around Stow-in-the-Wold (2002). I'll never forget the kindly farmer with a broken leg asking me "are ye lost, love?" (I was). Or the herd of sheep who surrounded me as if I were an alien that fell from the sky. I hope to return someday and do the entire Cotswold's walk!
Rick, your comments about the joy of hiking in the Cotswold region takes us back to our 7-day walking vacation of the entire 102-mile Cotswold Way trail last year. The experience was unforgettable, though a little more strenuous than we had expected. However, the effort was worthwile as we were rewarded with the town of Bath at the end of the walk. After a few months of rest and reflection, we're planning our next walk along a portion of the South West Coast Path. England is covered with thousands of miles of walking and hiking paths, thanks to their public rights-of-way law. Walking the English (and Scottish) countryside is a fantastic way to experience the geography, history and people. Leave the car behind and let a local walking path or National Trail take you on an adventure.
I was blessed to have had the chance to go to England in 1998, we spent more of the time in the cotswold area, oh how I miss England, the beauty, the history! we have nothing like it in America. Still Dreaming of England and hoping to be able to return one day.
Steve, I love your shows and your travel guide books really are the best. But how is it that you are living the life I should have had? :^)
I've always wanted to see the English countryside and walk its footpaths. We've never been outside the US but are planning a trip through the holidays and will be consulting with the Rick Steves people in a couple weeks. We want to see some major highlights of course but also want to get out into nature for gentle hikes with gorgeous scenery a day or two. Please anyone have suggestions for England, Ireland or Scotland??
My wife and I did some hiking around Pitlochry in the Fall time. Beautiful easy country to hike. One word of caution. Stay on the paths and don't stray into the heather. I ended up with a tick in my arm which their free health care system extracted for me, and days later found one in my ankle the night we got back to Seattle (which my wife extracted for me for a small fee). We also did a 3 day bicycle tour through the Cotswolds area. Wonderful way to see that country side and the small towns. We did have to push the bikes up a couple hills but had no guilt drinking and eating to make up for the burned calories:)