A few years ago, I submitted the Madrid chapter of my guidebook and a new TV show we produced on Madrid to the local tourist board for a tourism promotion contest. While I knew I was promoting tourism in Spain far more than any other participant, I also knew I wouldn’t win. That was a few years ago. Just yesterday, my local guide friend told an anecdote about how my writing was ridiculed by the panel of judges as being just “too full of Franco.” (Tourist boards are all about fun in the sun and duty free shopping.)
I don’t think you can tour Spain properly without an understanding of how a brutal civil war followed by half a century of dictatorship impacted the society and leaves it scarred today.
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Now I’m in Ireland. I just watched a powerful movie (The Wind that shakes the Barley) in a small town (Dingle) theater filled with local farm kids whose grandparents could have been the stars of the movie showing how a heroic independence was won after a 700 year long battle with the world’s quintessential colonial overlord (Britain) and the battle then morphed almost immediately into a civil war (fighting over how to deal with a Britain-ruled north).
Walking a Dingle street the next day with the retired local police chief, Tim, I worked to bring to life Ireland’s history using insignificant bits of a small town a world away from Dublin as a rack upon which to hang this understanding. A century ago the town’s police station was the Green Zone of English imperialism here, housing the dreaded Black and Tan forces who kept any Irish insurgency under control. It was burned and today only the red brick wall at its gate survives. Across the street a big, white crucifix stands memorializing where local boys were executed (firing squad) by the English “in the glorious struggle for a free Ireland.” This was erected after the Free State was established, but even back then they knew the struggle was on-going. It is dated 1916 to 19__. Ireland remains divided and the date remains poignantly open ended.
I enjoy history–I actually got my history degree accidentally, it was so much fun. And the history that inspires me most is from the last century–heroic figures who people alive today still remember. Churchill, chomping on a cigar in his bunker, keeping England fighting. Ataturk, muscling medieval Turkey from the buffet line of Euro-imperialism into a modern democracy.
Turks still remember the George Washington of their young nation. I have a Turkish friend (Mehlika) who was so dedicated to Ataturk that as a young girl she believed she’d never be able to fall in love with another man. Her father died of a heart attack during a moment of silence at a Rotary Club ceremony to remember what Ataturk did for Turkey. Even today, Turks see Ataturk’s image floating by in the clouds.
The sights and stories of small people (young and old) fighting Hitler, Franco, the USSR, or the Queen carbonate my European sightseeing. And, to any student of history, two things seem very clear: we can learn valuable lessons from history; and the resilience of a people’s cause, while easy for an imperialistic power to underestimate, is an impressive force.
The English burned the harps here in Ireland centuries ago. But the pipes and fiddles play on as today the Irish culture thrives.
Thanks for today’s blog Steve. Hope you’re enjoying the great metropolis of Dingle:) If you happen to visit LOCH A’DÚIN VALLEY, on the northern side of Conor Pass near the village of Cloghane, please snap some photos and tell us about it. The site was recently surveyed and holds loads of Bronze Age monuments.
OMG, I just realized I called you Steve. My apologies Rick!!
I was interested to read your comments about the place in Ireland from which the first telegraph cable to the New World was laid. I have a section of that cable, a momento passed down to me from grandparents. It is a section of black substance, like hard tar, about the size of a nickle and surrounded by an engraved gold band. There is a tiny hole in the middle through which the cable must have run.
Hi Rick…
Since you’re in Ireland, can you confirm a rumor for me? I’ve been told that Ireland has passed a “no smoking” law for pubs. 1.) Is that rumor true? 2.) Is it working?
One of things I don’t like about traveling in Europe is the intense desire of Europeans to smoke while dining. If Ireland has, indeed, passed such a law, that’ll be the next European country I visit.
Thanks.
I’ve been meaning to write for a year, but since you are in Dingle thought it appropriate. We used your 2005 book last summer and loved it except for the circle drive on Dingle Peninsula. Our rental car odometer was only in km and your book had the markers in miles. When you reprint, it would be a great help to include both. We finally gave up tyring to convert from one point to the next and simply enjoyed the rest of the drive.
In any case, your book was fabulous and we enjoyed our trip much more because of it. Thanks!
Rick-
We’ve just returned from two weeks in Ireland and enjoyed the Dingle Peninsula more than the Ring of Kerry. It has everything- the country setting, the shops and pubs of Dingle, ruins, beehive huts, and fantastic scenery and hiking. We especially loved the Dingle people and their passion for keeping Gaelic alive. Wish we had taken advantage of attending a Gaelic mass just for the thrill of hearing the language my ancestors spoke. But don’t cover it too much in your book… we prefer to keep it a secret to ourselves.
P.S. We came home to a black oak tree that had fallen on our house, breaking rafters and ruining our vacation. We look forward to going back again for a mental health break!!
I’m currently reading Kevin O’Hara’s The Last Donkey Pilgrim about his travels with his donkey along the entire Irish coast 1979. Great read! Enjoy your trip and have a 1/2 pint for me!
I neglected to mention our B & B in Dingle was outstanding! It’s called Coill An Rois- “Forest of the Roses” and run by Jimmy Bruic. Jimmy is a chef and works in New York in the wintertime. He knows how to take care of Americans and makes the best pancakes and waffles in all of Ireland. No kidding! Our teenage boys really appreciated his good breakfasts after a week already of the Irish breakfast and black pudding. He is out in the country surrounded by mountains, cows and sheep. Loved every minute of it!
Rick- On your way out of Dingle, stop at the South Pole Inn. Its the bright blue pub on your left at the west edge of Annascual. It was founded by Tom Crean, an Antartic exploer. There is music most nights, sometimes with set dancing. Say hello to Alice (pink coat, center table) from the San Diego people that drove her home from Mass last summer. We “pubbed” with locals here 4 of the 7 nights we stayed on delightful Dingle. Slainte, George
Hi Rick,
We just got back from Dingle and while we were taking the penninsula cicle driving tour we stumbled on the most magnificient beach that was hidden away below a high cliff. I was surprised that you didn’t have it listed as a place to stop. It was very close to the westernmost part of Europe. It was so beautiful we must have taken 100 pictures there. People were swimming, so of course my daughter and I had to roll up our pant legs and see what the Atlantic felt like from the other side(we live near the Jersey shore).There was a sandwich man at the top of the cliff selling hot dogs on baguettes. It was the most scenic lunch I’ve ever had eating a hot dog!
Hi Rick,
We just got back from Dingle and while we were taking the penninsula cicle driving tour we stumbled on the most magnificient beach that was hidden away below a high cliff. I was surprised that you didn’t have it listed as a place to stop. It was very close to the westernmost part of Europe. It was so beautiful we must have taken 100 pictures there. People were swimming, so of course my daughter and I had to roll up our pant legs and see what the Atlantic felt like from the other side(we live near the Jersey shore).There was a sandwich man at the top of the cliff selling hot dogs on baguettes. It was the most scenic lunch I’ve ever had eating a hot dog!
Rick,
Just returned from Ireland the end of July. They were having a heat wave, the temp. rose to 80 & no rain. It was great.
Had dinner at the Dunguaire Castle. What fun! Definitely worth a stop & the food was good too.
Rick, I love reading your blog, and I used to love reading your monthly e-mails………what happened to them! The print is so small and the resolution is so bad that I can’t make out most of the words. I hope you can fix this. I really look forward to reading about your adventures and dreaming about my next trip to Europe. My first (and only trip so far) was to London using your guide book. Next will be Italy. I’m reading that guidebook now. Can’t wait. Thanks for all you do to keep the info current. Annette
Hi Rick (and all reading),
My husband and I were in Ireland about a year ago and loved our time there. Dingle was certainly a highlight. We set up a blog for that trip which includes some great video of local music, etc. Feel free to take a look at our ramblings:
http://www.jakeandmaggie.com/ireland/
Of course, we used your guidebook. Thanks!
Rick, I have used your travel guides since you started producing them. I am curious how you approach hotel owners and restaurants about their operations. Do you introduce yourself as the writer or try to avoid that approach?
When I owned a small motel in Oregon, guidebook writers were always quizzing me about comping them: a great write up for a free night! Do you accept perks?
How do you ferret out the great places?
Frank A. Walter
Hi Rick!
If you are heading up to Connemara next, you may want to check out this for your 2007 book:
Ballykine House,
Clonbur, Co. Galway, Ireland.
Ann and Barry Lambe
ballykine@eircom.net
Located just west of Cong it was a perfect location to explore the whole area.
Our favorite part of Ireland was Connemara and our favorite B&B was by far this historic home.We could actually see Lough Mask from our window!
Say “hi” to Ann for us!
Hi Rick,
My younger sister just met you in Dublin yesterday (on a tour). She is backpacking around Europe after finishing grad school and she said meeting you and getting your autograph was the best graduation present she got!
Hi Rick,
While you’re in Dingle, drive 7 miles west to the hostel, Tigh an Phoist, Boher Bui, near Ballydavid. Excellent value, clean, dorm and private rooms, with full bathrooms in some rooms.
Web site: http://www.tighanphoist.com
I have been to Spain several times and love Madrid and Toledo but the most moving and memorable sight was the Valley of the Fallen. I disagree that travel is all about beaches and sunshine. You learn so much more about a country studying its history and the people. Good for you. Keep it up and do what you do best. There are plenty of guide books for the beach and margarita crowds.
I went to Dingle in May and used lots of tips in the guidebook including a three hour hike out to the bay along the sea wall and through a cow pasture to an abandoned lighthouse. sigh…can’t wait to go back. Stayed at the Mainstay B and B and enjoyed visiting with Ruth and the dogs. Gus makes a mean frittata. Do not miss the folk concerts at the church of St.James. After the concert, I took a chance going to the Small Bridge Pub where 2 of the 4 musicians from the concert jammed for hours…sigh.
Have a pint for me! Slainte!
We were in Dublin for a week about a year ago, and yes, pubs were NO SMOKING inside. But there was a crowd of smokers outside each pub, thereby making it even easier to find them!
Rick, Can you add some travel info about Beleek, including how & when to visit the fine china factory there? I’ve been wanting to do that ever since I received a beautiful piece of their work.
Rick, that was an awesome post that really made my day. Thanks. And who cares what some stupid judges thought? Panels of judges are usually very good as missing what’s great, picking the wrong book, play, movie, or whatever.
You mentioned Melhika. How is she? I just recently saw two of your shows on Turkey where she is featured. She seems very charming, very knowledgeable, and when I go to Turkey next year I’d love to meet her.
It was great to meet you that night in Dingle (both before and after the film). Thanks for listening to the tunes and songs. I sent Danny a picture of my 1998 copy of .Best of Europe to prove that mine was more tattered than his! Travelling Europe Through the Back Door, changed my world view and inspired nearly a decade of subsequent voyages. Keep working hard on those books!
Rick,
We also visited Dingle in July, and continue to be in awe of its beauty and history. We too stayed with Jimmy Bruic at Coill An Rois, and can’t begin to tell you how wonderful his hospitality was. My husband and I are “directionally impaired,” and Jimmy went out of his way to see that we got our bearings and were able to explore and enjoy the peninsula. He’s a true Irishman, with fantastic scones and muffins!
Sorry Rick but most English people would disagree with you regarding the ” Irish Problem “, Just because some stupid people like Ian Paisley believe that the Battle of the Boyne in sixteen hundred and something is still on, is no excuse for the senseless actions of the IRA in the last 30 years or so. Please don’t blame us for protecting ourselves.
I bought your Ireland book before going there in May, 2006 and toured in a circle from Dublin south and up to Donegal where my grandson’s wedding to an Irish girl took place, then back around to Dublin – best 2 weeks of my life, rented an automatic to reduce the driving changes issue and totally enjoyed every minute – thank you for the recommendations. Karen
Rick – I KNEW that was you on Temple Bar, Dublin, last week. My husband and I saw you make a well-deserved contribution (monetary) to a group of street musicians – complete with a rousing, spontaneous dance-along by two young Irish spectators. I always use your guides when traveling to Europe. Although we may not always agree, I really appreciate that you offer your opinion about what’s worth seeing. Few guide books do that. Thanks.
How about some mention of the fantastic artist and musicians in Galway? I was there last month and found it to be outstanding. Even the soup was great!
Rick,
Better check your history books. Ataturk was a Hitler and a barbarian himself. Your friend grew up with the turkish big lie. All thier history books have modified the truth and remain that way today. Find out more about the Armenian genocide and Ataturks role in it all (the big cover up). Thanks.
Jean