For the past few nights in the Loire Valley, I’ve been reminded that an evening meal here can be much more than a meal. When you spend $60 for dinner here (instead of just “filling the tank” for $20) don’t count on getting any extra nutrition. You’re buying a three-hour joy ride for the senses — as rich as visiting an art gallery and as stimulating as a good massage.
In Amboise, after a full day of researching the next edition of our France book, Steve Smith and I go to Restaurant L’Epicerie. Steve orders a basic menu and I go top end. As usual, we share. I bring along my little black notebook in an attempt to capture how — when you choose a good restaurant, relax about the prices, and let yourself really tune into the experience — splurging on dinner is a travel thrill in itself. And that can make it a great value.
Getting a full dozen escargot rather than the typical six snails doubles the joy. Eating six you’re aware that supply is very limited. Eating twelve, it seems for the first eight like there’s no end to your snail fun. The taste is so striking that I find myself requesting silence at the table. It’s just my mouth and the garlic-drenched snails, all alone on the dance floor of my palette. Add good Chinon wine and you’ve got a full orchestra accompaniment. Like a slow motion love scene, I pry another snail gently out of its shell and pop it into my mouth. The swirly spiral on the empty shells visually syncs with each swish of wine.
Like a mermaid’s tail in a tide pool, my crust of bread laps up the homemade garlic-and-herb sauce. I ask Aurore, our waitress, how it can be so good. With a sassy chuckle and smile she says, “Other restaurateurs come here to figure that out, too.” Then she adds, “It’s done with love.” While I’ve heard that line many times, here it seems believable.
The restaurant itself adds to the experience. Under rough timber beams hang frameless portraits of long forgotten city fathers. Opposite hangs an aging painting of a traditional boat full sail blowing up the Loire. Glasses fill the room like crystal flowers. Gazing at the quiet lane outside my window, with the floodlit Amboise château sparkling high above, I think French kings and Leonardo strolled along this very spot.
Then my main course arrives: tender beef with beans wrapped in bacon. Slicing through a pack of beans in their quiver of bacon, I let the fat do its dirty deed. A sip of wine, after a bite of beef, seems like an incoming tide washing the flavor farther ashore.
My crust of bread, a veteran from the escargot course, is called into action for a swipe of sauce. Italians brag about all the ingredients they use. But France is proudly the land of sauces. Thanks to the bread, I enjoy one last encore of the meat and vegetables I’d just savored.
If it’s not this afternoon’s bread, it’s not a good restaurant. I hold up my petite wicker basket and, with a quick and crusty chop, chop, chop, it comes back in moments filled. If the sauce is the medicine, the bread is the syringe. I take some more.
Lighting in a restaurant is a mystery to me. When it works, the food, the glasses, your dining partner all twinkle. The red in the beef, the diamonds in the wine, the smile in the tomato, everything seems more appetizing. And then, Aurore asks in French, “What would give you pleasure?”
Shifting my chair to stretch out my legs, I prepare for the next course. Aurore brings on her cheese platter. It’s a festival of mold on a rustic board with its vibrant yet mellow colors promising a vibrant array of tastes. She explains the line-up with patience and care as I film her presentation with my iPhone. With the cheese there’s a special extra: raisins soaked in Armagnac brandy. Her sweet French voice makes me want to respond, “Oui!” The lovingly sliced collection of cheeses arriving on my plate makes me want to sing (out of consideration for Steve, I don’t).
As cheese needs wine, I check my wine bottle like I would my gas tank before driving home. Noticing the restaurant crowd thinning, I remind myself there is no rush. I appreciate hearing the quiet murmurs of other diners, as eating among others enjoying their experience as much as I am enjoying mine is part of the sensual experience. It makes me wish restaurants back home were also hushed.
As I lean back to stifle a burp, Steve says, “And here comes dessert.”
Mine is a tender crêpe papoose of baked cinnamon apple with butterscotch ice cream garnished with a tender slice of kiwi. That doesn’t keep me from reaching over for a snip of Steves’ lemon tart with raspberry sauce and shaved almonds.
The meal ends with an offer of coffee, but I decline, preferring to remain in my dazed state.
The bill arrives: €34 for my four courses, €22 for Steve’s simpler menu, and €30 for the wine. The entire meal costs us €86, or about $60 each. You could call it $20 for nourishment and $40 for three hours of bliss. I can’t imagine a richer Loire experience, one that brought together an unforgettable ensemble of local ingredients, culture, pride and people.
Aurore bids us good night with the same twinkle of joy that accompanied each course. Stepping out into that lane, looking up to the floodlit château, I know it won’t be the last time.
What a wonderful replay of what was obviously a special evening spent eating[INVALID]no, DINING[INVALID]in a very Gallic fashion. Some people will feel comfortable springing for a round of golf, some see no problem having their car detailed at great expense, and some know that the pleasure of well paced meal of lovingly prepared food coupled with fine wines is a surreal and very agreeable way to spend money. I am reminded of the man who was asked how he spent his fortune, and he replied, “Most of it I spent on wine and women, and the rest I just wasted.” Also, nice move there having Steve split the bill evenly even though his meal was much cheaper. You remind me of my inlaws. wbf
Wait a minute, here. In the US the economy is suffering and headed for another recession (low growth rate) and Rick is enjoying an extravagant dinner in France? It sounds like he is one of those not paying their fair share.
Rick – I always enjoy your description of a meal enjoyed! I agree – spending your money on a good meal, good company – especially in Europe – is not a bad thing. I look forward to hearing about the next one. Keep on travelling…
Er, isn`t it his business to go to Europe and entice others to spend money on tours etc? This looks like a business expense to me. It has nothing whatsoever to do with paying a fair share. That has to do with accepting a higher tax rate. Are you suggesting that because he had a nice meal – and at under $100 it sure isn`t extravagant by many standard for a special meal – Rick would not accept a higher tax rate to pay his fair share? Talk about fallacious arguments! Sounds like a wonderful meal. I had a lovely French meal last night in NY. It was $74 for two of us. But we only had one glass of wine and didn`t splurge for desert or cheese. Kind of wish we had now. ; )
My wife would not agree. Rick promotes c`est la vie (spend,,, for tomorrow you are What: toast; unemployed?). I side with my wife. The US is about immediate gratification which is about rick steves` marketing programs maybe?. I spend therefore I am? But I like Rick and his company because nobody is going to convince people in our consumerist society to derprive themselves. And if that`s the case, let`s give the money to Rick and his guides because the really do earn it. One of the women I traveled with a couple of years ago said: I`m spending it before the govt. gets it.
People like Pam introduce an element of reality.
I agree with Pam, above. It is Rick`s business to check out hotels and restaurants. And to enjoy, wherever possible, oui? Here in the DC area, $60 would not get you past the cocktail with appetizers, in the highest end spots. Yes the rich are getting richer, but enough of that. What I want to know is, with all these splendid meals and drinks, we see Rick getting, in Italy, Turkey, France, why doesnt he weigh 300? I wonder, what is the secret? Hmm ,what about a diet book next, Rick? “Rick Steves European Diet Secrets?” Could be a best seller there…..
Mr. Steves, some of your more rabid disciples on the Helpline seem to have a reverse-snobbery reaction to expensive hotels and restaurants, as if they can only get a true “cultural experience” at some cheap mom and pop places. Because they`ll follow you for a swim into an erupting volcano, I`m glad that you`re showing them that its OK to splurge on good food. Oh yeah, and how do you manage your weight after eating at all these restaurants week after week?
What a great meal. That is what I love about Europe, I don`t care if you spend a little or a lot you get a wonderful relaxing experience with top notch food, not something the Cisco truck delivered. I would hardly say going to Europe is instant gratification, it takes a lot of work and planning to make a trip like this happen. I have spent months researching and making reservations for these trips on your own. If that floats your boat than by all means enjoy your life you only have one to live.
It`s Sysco, Judy, and traveling is not a relaxing experience for many – although it may be illuminating. It certainly IS all about floating one`s own boat if sometimes only to sail it in front of others
Rick can certainly afford to eat expensive meals everyday if he wants to. He has earned his money. I don`t begrudge him for that, recession or not. Just do not pontificate to everyone else on the evils of capitalism though. Nothing worse then a hypocrite.
Wonderful reflections on value for money. It`s true that when traveling sometimes we can get caught up in scrimping scrimping scrimping . . . but a carefully prepared meal featuring local ingredients, cooking methods, and wines, is another way into the culture of the place you have spent so much money to get to in the first place. It`s an investment in your experience, as much as a ticket to the Louvre or Versailles is. I salute Rick for making this point so elegantly! (I met my husband my second night in Paris, at a restaurant where he was helping us choose our wine, and our courtship included many incredible dining experiences — so I know the importance of this!!!)
Traveling is not a requirement. Some people like hunting, some like poker. But I agree that when participating in your passion get the most out of it.
Wonderful. A beautiful story of a perfect meal somehow morphed into a story on the american tax code. Good grief.
Please relax everyone. Rick is showing that food is an integral part in defining the culture and it brings all of your senses into the surroundings and its history. You are not going to get that eating $1 Cheetos everyday. Missing out on the food is the same as skipping the Eiffel tower in Paris. I travel on a tight budget and save my money to splurge on an expensive meal two or three times during my trip. Rick practices what he preaches and does not eat like this everyday. With this meal he is creating a memory, and that`s why we all spend our hard earned money to travel. Thanks for sharing Rick!
a carefully prepared meal featuring local ingredients, cooking methods, and wines, is another way into the culture of the place you have spent so much money to get to in the first place. It`s an investment in your experience, as much as a ticket to the Louvre or Versailles is. I salute Rick for making this point so elegantly! (I met my husband my second night in Paris, at a restaurant where he was helping us choose our wine