European Guides Learn to Square Dance

It’s suddenly quiet here at ETBD headquarters, as 80 European guides have packed up and returned home. Our annual tour guide summit and tour member alumni party are over, and it was a great week. Saturday was an exhilarating three-ring circus of talks and alum parties, as we pretty much took our town by storm — filling up the big venues, bars, and restaurants with our guides and well over a thousand 2011 tour alums. Each day of the last week was filled with meetings: tour itinerary brainstorming sessions, all-staff meetings, first aid and CPR training, and so on. To stockpile a few months’ worth of radio content, I managed to do 30 interviews with guides over the week. We even flew in a tax specialist so our guides could get the straight scoop on tax issues for European guides working for an American company. And each evening was social time — my favorite part of the week.

The ultimate highlight was our square dance evening. Our guides earn their living introducing American travelers to their local cultures. Now we turned the tables, encouraging the guides to dress as “Old West” as they could as we filled a school gym for a night of BBQ and learning the moves with a square dance club. The old-timers with big belt buckles, the pretty ladies in their music-box-doll crinoline dresses, and the fun of this classic bit of Americana were a hit for all. Rolinka from Holland found overalls, speckled her face with some big Texas-sized freckles, and put her long Dutch-girl blonde hair into a bouncy ponytail. She made like an old cowboy pulling his suspenders out and hollered at me, “Eeee-haw! Is this what-cha call a hootenanny?”

Now our guides want another night of square dancin’ at our next summit. Here’s a sample of the fun:

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

(P.S. Thanks for all the very kind wishes and condolences for my last post about losing my mother. It meant a lot.)

Bulgarian Best Wishes from Granny Marta

One of the great joys of my work is to collaborate with people who are passionate about their small niche in our vast and varied program. We work with lots of Europeans who are stars in our organization because of the cultural color they bring (more, even, than for the revenue they help generate). Last month, we hosted 80 of our guides at our annual guide summit here in Edmonds. The big news is how well our tiny Bulgaria tour program is doing in its first year: five sold-out tours, filled with happy customers all thrilled with their guide, Lyuba Boyanin. (I met Lyuba in 1999, when the local tourist board assigned her to help our TV crew while filming there. Even then, I had a sense that, someday, we’d be working together to create a Bulgaria tour.) Here’s a charming letter from our Bulgarian friend, giving a glimpse into the sweet and Slavic mind of this corner of Europe:

Dear Rick,

Chestita Baba Marta! (Happy Granny Marta!)

These are the words you will hear in Bulgaria if you come here during the first days of March. We have a very ancient tradition to twist red and white treats as amulets for long life and good health. We call them “martenitsa.” The whole country is in red and white: red on the balconies, red and white on streets, red and white on our coats, sweaters, hands, necks. Everyone has martenitsa decorations. (To our surprise, China has gotten into the martenitsa business, making tons of twisted red and white treats and decorations!) I wish you could be here to give you a martenitsa with my best wishes in person. Maybe if you walk to the Rick Steves Tour Ops office, you will see the martenitsa which they still have on the windows, with a wish for a successful and prosperous year.

We wear martenitsas waiting for the first migrating birds to come back, usually storks. Then we hang our martenitsas on fruit blossom trees with our wishes for prosperity, for a good and healthy life, for success. Soon after that is Easter…the resurrection of nature was the most valuable event for people here. It brings new hope for new life and a good crop season. For Bulgarians, every Orthodox Christian event has a deeper meaning in the pagan past, with roots that are very strong here. Maybe this is another mysterious part of Bulgaria, which has not been discovered yet.

Thus, we believe that the first days of March begin the new year’s circle. Pagan Bulgarians celebrated New Year’s in March, together with the newly resurrected nature. But March has unpredictable weather. One day it’s snowing, one day it’s warm like summer! This is the only month with a female name, maybe because we women have such delicate character: when Marta smiles ‘ sunshine; when she is not happy ‘ clouds and rain cover the earth. So far, the first days of March this year are cold, windy, and snowing.

We hope soon Granny Marta will be happy and we all will enjoy the warmth of the sun again. With that hope, I believe this year will be good for our Bulgarian Rick Steves tours again.

Meanwhile, I haven’t had a chance to thank you for your hospitality in Edmonds in January yet. Thank you! I found so many old and new friends during the meeting. This year I was not alone at the reunion, as my Bulgarian tour members from 2010 were well represented. Of them, our September tour group took first place in “best attendance.” They were the winners of all the Rick Steves tours. I hope one of our groups will take the best position for scrapbook contest 2010, too.

During my visit to Edmonds, I was thinking a lot about Bulgarian tours. We cannot be competitive with such a famous destinations as Italy, France, Spain, Turkey, England, Ireland, and Greece, although we have great history, wonderful and unique archaeological discoveries, beautiful nature, extremely friendly people, amazing cuisine, and delicious tasty wines. We have evidence of the oldest prehistoric European cultures. Here in 311 A.D., Constantine the Great wrote his famous Edict for the Tolerance, which officially recognized Christianity, and we are the only European state whose name hasn’t changed since 681 A.D.

Unfortunately, politically and historically we have been under the shade of very famous neighbors such as Rome, Greece, Byzantium, and the Ottoman Empire, and I know there is a lot we have to do to get out of that! Thank you, Rick for the courage to begin our Bulgarian partnership ‘ adventuring with your tours into a place not famous for its tourism business. I know that when people have never heard about a country (like mine), it will be difficult to attract them to come visit. Thank you for the incredible tour created by all of Rick Steves’ office to make Bulgaria such an extraordinary itinerary, including meetings with Bulgarian people. The tour makes this country ‘ so many times not properly understood ‘ better understood, and makes travel a political act for everyone: we Bulgarians as well as our American visitors.

I am an optimist. I am sure Bulgaria will take her position as a country which “must” be seen in Europe. Just step by step, or drop by drop, the river will run from stone to stone, making people happy to see it and to taste it.

One day, I hope to be your first guide of the second itinerary to Bulgaria…when we will learn how to make our personal martenitsas.

Now I have my own red and white twisted treats for you. Be happy as the wonderful spring!

Think white (plus red) but not black!

Lyuba

The Italians Snub the French

We just flew in 70 of our European tour guides for our annual tour planning summit. Having all that national pride in our small town was fun. As always, our French guides and our Italian guides had their playful competition. Here’s a good-natured cultural inventory our Italians found handy for keeping the proud French in their place:

Geography: France borders the English Channel and Belgium in the north; the Mediterranean Sea and Spain in the south; and in the east, Luxembourg, Germany, Switzerland…and the 2006 World Cup soccer champions, Italy. While the highest peak in Europe is known as Mont Blanc (“White Mountain”), the summit of “Monte Bianco” is actually shared by both France and Italy.

History: France is proud to have one of history’s most important generals, Napoleon…who, having been born on Corsica, was Italian.

Production: The French are known for having wines, cheeses, and fashions that are second only to Italy’s.

Soccer: While Italy won the World Cup in 2006, France is very proud of its national soccer team. The “French” stars include Zinedine Zidane (of Algerian origin), Lilian Thuram (from Guadeloupe), David Trezeguet (of Argentinean origin), Jean-Alain Boumsong (from Cameroon), Patrick Vieira (from Senegal), Claude Makélélé (born in Zaire), and Florent Malouda (from French Guiana). While none of these players comes from France, most of them have trained in Italy.

Music: It’s strange that there are no traces of French music outside of France, where, instead, Eros Ramazzotti, Laura Pausini, and Tiziano Ferro ‘ who are all Italian ‘ are extremely popular.

Art and culture: Apart from some drugged poets or paint-dripping artists, France is popular for hosting the Mona Lisa (who is Italian). Where Europe’s most beautiful women are concerned, France is the home of actress/model Monica Bellucci and has as its first lady Carla Bruni ‘ both of whom are Italian.

Europe Invades Seattle

Europe Through the Back Door headquarters is finally quiet today after the busiest tour alumni party/tour guide summit we’ve ever hosted. For over twenty years, we’ve invited our guides and their tour members to town for a grand tour reunion. This year’s “massing of the scrapbooks” was the best and busiest yet. Last Saturday, over 1,200 tour alums (of the 8,000 travelers who joined our tours in 2009) gathered here for four parties. They were joined by 80 or so of our guides (60 of whom we flew in from all corners of Europe).

At each reunion party, I had the pleasure of introducing a smattering of guides to the gang to share greetings from their culture. When I introduced Cristina from Portugal and happily announced that for 2010 we were breaking Portugal away from our Spain tour, she noted that for 800 years her country has fought to maintain its independence from Spain (and has the longest unchanged border in Europe), so this itinerary change was only right. As she spoke, it occurred to me that our guidebooks and tours have dealt with similar border challenges that the countries themselves have. (Ireland and Britain were once the same book, and eventually the Irish gained their guidebook independence, too.)

I introduced Alfio from Sicily. Noting that Italy no longer has a shrinking population, he added an aside that his baby boy is “obsessed with breast-feeding.” He and his wife are being awakened nearly every hour through the night, and just before he left home, their little boy spoke his first word — tetta.

As usual, at the parties we acknowledged tour members who’ve taken the most tours. While plenty have enjoyed ten or twelve of our tours, no one gets near Larry from Springfield. He’s survived 17 of our tours and stood up to announce he just signed up for our “Village France” tour in 2010. Thanks Larry!

That same Saturday, we hosted 21 “Test Drive a Tour Guide” classes in our town’s three biggest venues. Each was filled with a mix of tour alums and potential first-time travelers interested in our various tour itineraries. (About half the people we took around Europe in 2009 were repeat customers. I think one of the most powerful marketing tools for this big sales event was to have alums and prospective first-time travelers in the same theater together to hear the guides describe the various tours. The energy and enthusiasm was palpable…and contagious.) I capped the day with an evening talk entitled “An Irreverent History of the ETBD Tour Program.” Watch a video of last year’s version of An Irreverent History.

My tour operations staff and I kicked off the week-long summit with an all-day general meeting on Friday. I started the day with a three-hour lecture on the heritage, ethics, and fundamentals of being a Rick Steves tour guide. I stressed our determination that our travelers get the absolute most value out of each experience on the itinerary and out of each guide. The bottom line: Employment is shaky for guides in general, but solid for our gang…and to keep it that way, we’re raising the bar on what our guides provide our travelers.

In the days since Saturday, we’ve been huddling in extensive review and brainstorming sessions in which guides for each region gather and debate the fine points of their tour itineraries — sharing the lessons they learned and discoveries they made in the last year of guiding.

Each night was a party or dinner in a different venue in Edmonds. Getting 60 or 80 guides together in a bar or Mexican restaurant is a rare treat — all exuberant about their work, so fun to talk with, and happy to weave together countless friendships…and all right here in this beautiful corner of the USA. And it was a blast to see the fun they were having experiencing our country. When I welcomed Arnaud Servignat, our very sophisticated Parisian guide, with a nice margarita, the salt on the lip of the glass startled him. (I have the most trouble pronouncing Arnaud’s last name…I keep pronouncing his name like the grape: Cabernet “Servignat.”) Sharing stories of tough travelers, Irish guide Stephen recalled how he once guided an Australian who opened twist-top beer bottles with his eye socket.

For some Sunday-afternoon fun, we rented two school buses with local guides and gave our guides a bit of their own medicine: a guided tour…of Seattle. I can imagine the Seattle guide must have had a memorable experience herself, with forty European guides on her bus. Peter from Hungary noted that rolling boisterously down the freeway into Seattle felt like the scene in One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest when the inmates commandeered the bus and escaped their asylum.

 Guides also enjoyed simply being in Seattle. A few, such as Lyuba from Bulgaria, had never been in the USA before, and they were as wide-eyed about our culture as their tour members are about theirs.

Of course, free time was also spent at the mall. A highlight: the Apple Store. The word spread quickly: “Same price as in Europe…but in dollars!” (meaning that a gadget you’d pay €300 for over there would cost $300 here — a 40 percent savings). I asked Arnaud to compare the service here with the service he’s accustomed to in Paris. He said, “Here, it exists.” Patrick from Brittany added, “There was more staff than clients, and they were jumping on you. They fixed my hard drive in two hours, with smiles. In France, it would be ten days and double the price.”

Our tour guides get extra work with us as guidebook researchers. Along with our editorial staff, I spent Tuesday morning with the 20 guides who help update our guidebooks. And I enjoyed a breakfast at our local diner with our new guides. As the ten guides sorted through the menu, Gokalp (from Turkey) said, “In all the movies, you call waitresses ‘honey.’ Is it okay to do that?” When the waitress was taking the orders, and asked what kind of eggs, Nina from Italy asked, “Do we choose that?” When the waitress followed up with, “Your toast?”, Nina asked, “Do we choose that, too?” When the various plates finally arrived, Lyuba from Bulgaria exclaimed, “Wow, it’s a very serious breakfast!”

Seeing three young Turkish guides at the breakfast table was a reminder that Turkey is now our second most popular tour destination. These young Turkish guides filled the far east end of our table with bright eyes and exuberance…much like Turkey aspires to fill the east end of the European Union.

In the weeks leading up to our summit, I spent several long days with our tour operations staff reviewing our concerns and vision for each of our 30 or so tour itineraries. This week, while our staff and the guides were hammering out these ideas and the countless details of their respective tour itineraries, I was in our radio studio taping a world of radio interviews. Over the course of four six-hour recording sessions, we got 30 or 40 separate interviews (each streamed in the rough on our website and with live call-ins from around the country). Producer Tim Tattan now has raw material for about four months of radio shows in the can — and a lot of work ahead of him. Getting our foreign experts actually in the studio for all those interviews was a huge boon for our national radio show.

For a couple of days, we had our TV crew running around capturing the excitement of the event on camera, which we’ll edit and eventually put up on our website for those who couldn’t make it to Seattle for the occasion but wanted to.

My staff designed and pulled off this complex and exhilarating week as smoothly as could be. And today we say goodbye, as our guides fly back to points all over Europe — from Stockholm to Sofia, from Lisbon to Thessaloniki, from Glasgow to Izmir.

My brain is fried, my voice is hoarse, and my tour guide heart is soaring. Now we catch our breath, knowing we are primed and ready to lead a 2010 tour season brimming with rich experiences, vivid lessons, memories to last a lifetime, and busloads of good travelers.

Fifty Tour Guides, Red Wine, and a White Carpet…

Last night we had fifty tour guides in our living room. With a white carpet, we’ve learned to have a bottle of “Wine Away” handy. (Over twenty years of this annual bash, our guides have spilled — it seems — gallons of red wine on our carpet. Everyone has a folk remedy. For years, we’d pile salt on the spill and post a chair over it so dancers wouldn’t grind in the stain.)

Enlarge photo

As we do each year, we flew our guides in to Seattle for an annual summit. (In 2007, thirty years after I led our first tour, our guides led 12,000 people on 450 tours.) We were celebrating the end of a week-long series of itinerary brainstorming sessions and radio interviews.

Smart guides with foreign accents are great on radio, so I make sure to take full advantage of their presence in Seattle for our radio-production needs. Most of the people I interview for my weekly radio hour are either tour guides or guidebook writers. After 12 hours of interviews with our visiting guides this week, I was reminded that guides and writers may know their countries equally well, but tour guides — being expected to entertain as they travel — are generally much better talkers than the writers (who work alone).

It’s a thrill to open our house up to the guides (after all, they gave us the financial wherewithal to buy it) and just have a rip-roaring party. It’s my favorite social event of the year. Conversation was at a roar as guides were trading stories and catching up.

A few of the old guard was there — us old-timers from the days before cell phones, when buses had no air-con or CD players, and each of our groups got a “cash pack” (with starter bills in each of the many currencies we’d encounter, back before the simplicity of a European-wide euro currency).

I gave a talk earlier in the day to the guides about the importance of us all (past and present) learning from each other. They do this during their apprentice period and via staff assistants who may not aspire to be lead guides, but assist on tours and know the “Rick Steves” drill well. I used the metaphor parents use on their teenagers — “if you sleep with someone, you sleep with everyone they’ve ever slept with” — to illustrate the notion that “if you guide with someone, you guide with everyone they’ve ever guided with.” Then I refined my point by explaining how my piano teacher used to brag that my “piano teacher lineage” went back to Franz Liszt — so I was, indirectly, a student of Liszt.

As I surveyed the crowd of guides (including our crop of hotshot new guides), I felt satisfied that my guiding passions were picked up indirectly by each guide in the noisy room.

Marita from Sweden is talking of the fun she had taking her group into Stockholm’s ice bar (where everything, even the mugs, are made of ice). Marijan is talking with our daughter Jackie comparing gender issues in Morocco and Slovenia. Tommaso from Sicily reminds me how popular our Sicily tours are, and nags me to write a book on the island. Colleen advocates an overnight in Monemvasia rather than Gythio in Greece’s Peloponnesian Peninsula. Etelka is thrilled that we plan to publish a guidebook to Budapest and Hungary that will complement the tours she leads through her homeland. Martin reminds me Shakespeare’s first language was Welsh. Saso is excited to include Mostar and a bit of Bosnia-Herzegovina in our Adriatic tours next year. Lale is primed and ready to host me and our film crew in April as we film a new TV show on Istanbul. I explain to Rainier that my son Andy beat his record for the speed-walk across the width of the five Cinque Terre towns, and he’s welcome to dethrone Andy…but it’ll be tough.

The only controversy of the week-long summit is my insistence that we keep guide names on the tour member feedback on our website. (Some guides feel an unnecessary pressure to dish up all the group wow-ing extras that others do, and are afraid customers will expect one guide to do the others’ tricks.) I am so proud of our guides’ performances, that I want the public to read all the surveys from last year’s tour members…unvarnished and with names.

Apart from a globe, there’s only a Turkish carpet in our living room to hint that I may have traveled. We roll up our Turkish carpet when it’s time to crank up the music and dance. But first, our guides need to do a little cultural sharing. Margaret (the German guide who loves Wagner) and Federico (the Spaniard who does a mean Tom Jones) perform a dramatic and melo-operatic “Bésame Mucho,” which brings down the house.

Then we crank the music up and dance. The Doors used to be tops…now it’s “Brick House.” After the opera performance by our German and Spanish guides, our Irish guide Stephen McPhilemy whispers in my ear, “The opera was good, but I think it called for a drinking song at the end.”