The Tuscan hill town of Siena is known both for its pride and for its independent attitude. And for five centuries, that spirit has shown itself in a crazy horse race — the Palio. Twice every summer, the entire community of Siena hurls itself into the traditional revelry of the event with abandon. In this clip from my new, one-hour Rick Steves’ European Festivals public television special, we get right into the thick of it all.
With this post, I wrap up my second big 2016 trip — two two-month European adventures filled with learning, experiences, life-long memories, and lots of fun. I’ll be bringing you a few more weeks of posts from Europe starting in mid-September, as I get back in the tour-guiding saddle and lead the granddaddy of all our tours: our Best of Europe in 21 Days itinerary (Amsterdam-Germany-Italy-Swiss Alps-Paris). Don’t miss it! It’s been fun packing you along here on my blog and over on the Rick Steves Facebook page for these last 100 days. Thanks for being my partner as we “keep on travelin’.”
In these clips, you can see the euphoria erupting after the finish of the Palio horse race. When the winner crosses the finish line, 1/17th of Siena — the prevailing She-wolf (Lupa) neighborhood — goes berserk. Tears of joy flow, people embrace. The jubilation is over-the-top both for the winners, and for the many neighborhoods joyously celebrating their rival contrada’s defeat. We zip out into the street to film the mobs coursing toward the cathedral (I’m protecting Simon as he attempts to hold the camera still). The happy “Lupa-Lupa-Lupa!” horde thunders through the streets and up toward the cathedral. We’ve plotted our course through back lanes to position ourselves at the cathedral. Our cameraman, Karel, is already camped out inside the cathedral to film the climax of the celebrations at the high altar. Once there, they pack the church, and the winning contrada receives the coveted Palio banner — champions…until the next race. Carrying their new trophy and hoisting their jockey high, the She-wolf crowd tumbles out of the cathedral and into the street, where 16 neighborhoods will settle back into normalcy…and this jubilation will consume the She-wolf district until the wee hours — 500 years of tradition, still going strong.
The August 2016 race was actually historic: For the first time in over a century, the same contrada won both the July and the August races. That’s why you see two banners leaving the church in this photo:
Seeing the euphoria overcome members of the winning contrada reminded me that it’s impossible for a tourist to really understand what this ritual race means to the people of Siena.
This is Day 99 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Vienna, the Alps, the Low Countries, England, Siena, and beyond. Find more right here on my travel blog.
At the Palio, the entire city of Siena packs into the main square, Il Campo. Finally, it’s time for the race. A cart pulled by oxen carries the coveted Palio banner into the arena. At its sight, the crowd goes wild.
As the starting places are announced, our guide Roberto is traumatized. It’s not going well. (Sometimes it seems that the Sienese care as much about their rivals losing as their own district winning.)
Ten snorting horses and their nervous riders line up to await the start. The jockeying includes a little last-minute negotiating…it’s complicated. (Watching the last-minute shuffling, I understand where the expression “jockeying” comes from.) Silence takes over. And then…
They race! Once the rope drops, there’s one basic rule: There are no rules. The jockeys race bareback like crazy while spectators go berserk. In Siena, life stops for these frantic three laps…just about 90 seconds. And the winner is…Lupa, the She-wolf district.
(Unfortunately, for legal reasons I can’t show the actual race here — but you can catch it on YouTube.)
This is Day 98 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Vienna, the Alps, the Low Countries, England, Siena, and beyond. Find more right here on my travel blog.
Being in Siena for the Palio horse race is really a series of mob scenes. These three photos capture the crush of the crowds. Imagine being in the middle of it all. Imagine catching it on your big TV camera. Imagine enjoying the race from the comfort of Franco’s apartment. I’ll never forget this perch. Grazie, Franco!
This is Day 97 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Vienna, the Alps, the Low Countries, England, Siena, and beyond. Find more right here on my travel blog.
