Palermo

I have to admit, I was really excited to take our TV crew into Palermo’s Capuchin Crypt.

I made sure to add the crypt to our script after I visited it last year on a Rick Steves Best of Sicily tour. I could hardly wait to get back with the camera rolling, and when we arrived, it turned out to be even better than I hoped — thanks to a friendly monk who was happy to walk with me and share his thoughts.

You’ll be able to watch the whole thing this fall on Rick Steves’ Europe. In the meantime, here’s a sneak peek at our script for this scene:

[52] One of Sicily’s quirkiest charms — nearby in the city of Palermo — is in a crypt below its Capuchin monastery. The Capuchins, a branch of the Franciscan order, have a passion for reminding people of their mortality. Historically, when their brothers died, their bones were saved and put on display. The Capuchins of Palermo took this tradition a step further, rather than just saving bones, they preserved the bodies in their entirety.

 

[53] Back in the 16th century, they found that this particular crypt preserved bodies almost miraculously. They later realized they could actually charge wealthy parishioners for the privilege of being mummified here with the monks. And this helped raise money to support their monastery.

 

[54] This maze of corridors contains thousands of skeletons and mummies, dressed in the clothing of their choice. Each area features a different group: monks in their brown robes, women with their favorite dresses, priests with their vestments, soldiers still in uniform, and children looking almost as if they are taking a long nap. The oldest body — Brother Silvestro — has been hanging here since 1599.

 

[55] One of the brothers gave me a lovely little sermon. He explained that our time on earth is short and what really matters is what comes next. These “bodies without souls,” as they call them, are a reminder that we’re all mortal. For this monk, being with all these bodies brought him great joy and peace, as it caused him to prioritize not on our earthly existence…but on eternity.

 

[56] Today, the public’s welcome to wander thoughtfully through these halls of haunting faces that seem determined to tell us a truth that perhaps we’ve yet to learn…

 

[57] I’m not quite ready for a Capuchin crypt, but I could go for a cappuccino. And I’m joined by my Capuchin friend — who, in good Franciscan style, enjoys embracing the moment as well. [soundup: Scusi — un cappuccino, per favore. That means “the little Capuchin monk.” It’s what it looks like: with a light top…and a brown robe. Cappuccino.]

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I just spent two exciting and intense weeks in Sicily, filled with lots of great work and lots of great travel. Over the next few days, I’ll be sharing some final thoughts and pictures from the trip — and then we’ll dive right into our next stop: France.

Sicily surprised me. It’s less chaotic and dirty and more clean and efficient than it was in years past. But it still retains its colorful edge (and that’s why I love it). You never know what kind of welcome you’ll receive on the streets — like the in-your-face rude gesture a happy bum gave me — but it just feels friendly and fun rather than dark and foreboding.

In Palermo, we visited a giant mural that memorializes two judges who were assassinated by the Mafia in 1992. Their murders were a big turning point for the people of Sicily and today, the Mafia has nowhere near the influence it once held over Sicilian society.

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I’ll admit it — I’ve always been intrigued by human bones.

We’re in Sicily, filming two new episodes of Rick Steves’ Europe — and today we brought the camera to Palermo’s Capuchin Crypt. While we were there, I took a walk and chatted with a Capuchin friar. Among the contorted faces of his dead brothers, still wearing their brown robes — “bodies without souls,” as he called them — he shared with me why I might love to be surrounded by human bones. He said that being there brings him peace because it reminds him that life is transitory, and something much greater awaits. In a beautiful way, if you believe in God, this crypt — so full of dead bodies — is a celebration of life.

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Traveling thoughtfully, you connect with both other cultures and other times. And by “connecting,” I mean you gain understanding and empathy.

While the wealthy in America are enjoying a new Gilded Age, many of the fabulously wealthy in Europe have become the formerly fabulously wealthy. From England to Greece, families with aristocratic estates are maintaining their noble titles, but find that all those fancy palaces and mansions can leave them land-rich but cash-poor. And in many cases, these still-elegant families are dealing with this financial reality like the rest of us commoners do: by finding a creative way to pay the bills. The charming Contessa (countess) and Conte (count) Federico have a delightful family and a delightful world that they now open to visitors daily. Visiting here is a favorite experience on the Rick Steves Best of Sicily tour — and I got to join up with a group today to enjoy this special slice of Sicilian culture.

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Palermo’s Vucciria Market is lively in the morning — but I like it even better after hours.

It’s my first night in Europe this year, and I’m fighting jet lag by simply being out and about — instead of just sitting on my bed, thinking, “I feel so tired and disoriented.” I strolled away from the busy main drag into Palermo’s characteristic back lanes, where I caught a bohemian-chic scene by surprise. For some reason, this scene taps into the mix of old and young, edgy and hedonistic, crumpled and free…and convivial.

Under the stars, melting into a world where young and old douse the downsides of Sicilian life with a nice drink and some good conversation, I consider the gift of neighborhood togetherness. Many countries have a special word for this cozy feeling of conviviality (hygge in Denmark, gemütlich in Austria, craic in Ireland). Here in Italy, it’s found in the piazza — a place for togetherness that’s affordable, multi-generational, and a little naughty. If you found a time thread peeking up from the shiny cobbles here and pulled on it, it would take you all the way back to ancient Rome.

This is just the first of 100 nights I’ll be in Europe, and it’s been the perfect welcome. As I travel from Sicily to Iceland, I’ll be sharing daily (or nightly) updates here and on my Facebook page — I hope you come along with me.