Bodies Without Souls: Filming Palermo’s Capuchin Crypt

I have to admit, I was really excited to take our TV crew into Palermo’s Capuchin Crypt.

I made sure to add the crypt to our script after I visited it last year on a Rick Steves Best of Sicily tour. I could hardly wait to get back with the camera rolling, and when we arrived, it turned out to be even better than I hoped — thanks to a friendly monk who was happy to walk with me and share his thoughts.

Rick Steves in Capuchin crypt with friar

 

You’ll be able to watch the whole thing this fall on Rick Steves’ Europe. In the meantime, here’s a sneak peek at our script for this scene:

 

[52] One of Sicily’s quirkiest charms — nearby in the city of Palermo — is in a crypt below its Capuchin monastery. The Capuchins, a branch of the Franciscan order, have a passion for reminding people of their mortality. Historically, when their brothers died, their bones were saved and put on display. The Capuchins of Palermo took this tradition a step further, rather than just saving bones, they preserved the bodies in their entirety.

 

[53] Back in the 16th century, they found that this particular crypt preserved bodies almost miraculously. They later realized they could actually charge wealthy parishioners for the privilege of being mummified here with the monks. And this helped raise money to support their monastery.

 

[54] This maze of corridors contains thousands of skeletons and mummies, dressed in the clothing of their choice. Each area features a different group: monks in their brown robes, women with their favorite dresses, priests with their vestments, soldiers still in uniform, and children looking almost as if they are taking a long nap. The oldest body — Brother Silvestro — has been hanging here since 1599.

 

[55] One of the brothers gave me a lovely little sermon. He explained that our time on earth is short and what really matters is what comes next. These “bodies without souls,” as they call them, are a reminder that we’re all mortal. For this monk, being with all these bodies brought him great joy and peace, as it caused him to prioritize not on our earthly existence…but on eternity.

 

[56] Today, the public’s welcome to wander thoughtfully through these halls of haunting faces that seem determined to tell us a truth that perhaps we’ve yet to learn…

 

[57] I’m not quite ready for a Capuchin crypt, but I could go for a cappuccino. And I’m joined by my Capuchin friend — who, in good Franciscan style, enjoys embracing the moment as well. [soundup: Scusi — un cappuccino, per favore. That means “the little Capuchin monk.” It’s what it looks like: with a light top…and a brown robe. Cappuccino.]

Simon Griffith rolling up Rick Steves' sleeve in capuchin crypt
Even in a dank crypt, my producer Simon makes sure my sleeves are rolled up just right for the camera.
After filming wrapped up, we enjoyed the bonus of taking our monk friend out for a coffee. A cappuccino with a Capuchin…can you imagine?

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