A Thankful Thanksgiving

This Thanksgiving I’m considering our work, the world, our health and our blessings. While times are tough economically, and our future comes with impressive challenges, we have lots to be thankful for. This morning my neighbor told me that, having saved diligently for years, her retirement account took a big hit this month. Yet she doesn’t regret having spent money on leading a full life, saying that every memory she’s built through travel and embracing a life with experiences still enriches her life.

I know fewer people will travel in 2009. We’ve been at this since the late 1970s, and there have been plenty of ups and downs. One thing I’ve learned is that while some people are hell-bent on travel and will take a trip regardless of an economic downturn, for many, travel will have to wait. And for those who wait, they spring back and we see travel booms following every downturn.

My philosophy as president of our tour company is to offer the very best tour value possible every year. We make the most out of every dollar invested, take good care of every minute spent and take full advantage of each opportunity to learn and experience our world.

Our staff of expert guides is thankful to have work in 2009, and we are thankful to have lots of great tours filled to capacity, and to be able to promise piles of travel fun. (I expect we’ll be about 25 percent down from the 400 tours we led in 2008.)

My business team just asked me if it wouldn’t be prudent to scale back our Christmas party for this year. (We’re renting the local senior center and employing a local caterer.) I said no. We will be lean and mean…but we won’t pull the rug out from those businesses. We’ll enjoy the holidays, work harder than ever, and share in the discovery and learning of a great year of touring in 2009.

While our tour department is excited about new itineraries, I am feeling the breeze of a torrent of new productions: Our country guidebooks now have great built-in maps; I’ve made exciting improvements to the tenth-anniversary edition of my Postcards from Europe book (due out this spring); we’re putting out new books on Athens, Vienna and Budapest; my new Travel as a Political Act book is nearing completion; our new TV series hits the airwaves this month and our Iran special will come out — with great national prime-time carriage — in January; our radio program now airs on about 110 public radio stations for an hour each week; and an exciting new leader on our staff (who came to us from Nike and Amazon) is about to take our website to new levels. And I’m still speaking out: Two days ago I was in Spokane’s Bing Crosby Theater working for the ACLU and talking about ending the prohibition of marijuana to 600 caring people (law professors, bar association people, doctors and ACLU types from eastern Washington, Idaho and Montana).

Tomorrow I hit the road, visiting eight cities in as many days (San Francisco, LA, San Diego, Chicago, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Boston, Portland). My personal approach to our economic challenges: Work hard, produce and be thankful for what we have. And, as I say to end each of my shows…”Keep on travelin’.” Have a thankful holiday.

Granny Smiths, Quiet Shirts, and a Tiny Little Boop

This morning I sorted through my shirts and chose a quiet one (one that doesn’t make noise when my body moves). At my regular coffee shop, they know I like a “grande latte, extra hot” but I needed it without any milk — an Americano extra hot instead. Then I drove into Seattle (to “Clatter & Din,” the recording studio we use), excited to record the voice track of our Iran TV special.

It was a great day. By the end, my head is exhausted. If you asked my brain what’s the most demanding thing I do in my work, it would be standing in a recording studio to tape the voice track of one of my TV shows.

Of course “tape” is a relic of an analog day back in the last century. Today it’s digitalized, and the engineer can edit the sounds I make as easily as I can edit this Word document. I’ve learned to stop mid-sentence, take a breath, survey the script landscape, and carry on in a way that can be edited together seamlessly.

Simon Griffith (my TV director/producer) is a master who wears a million hats in our production. My passion (the words) coincides with his least skillful area (transcribing the fine edits we make in our last loving “script scrub” with managing editor Risa Laib into the final version of the script). So I bring my penciled-up last copy as a backup for his “ready to record” printout of our script. Every word matters.

Eric, the sound engineer, is excited about a new “rock ‘n roll” mic (a U-250 or something). He loves the way it “picks up the complexity of the mid-range and makes the bass rich yet not tubby.”

I’m excited about this last step in the production of our Iran show. As it’s an hour long (compared to our regular half-hour Europe travel shows), we’ll be working the entire day to record the 14-page script. While my legs get tired, I stand up and even clip the script to the top of the fully extended music rack to open up my body and get the most energized sound. Granny Smith apples — which the Clatter & Din people know I like to keep my voice crisp — are lovingly sectioned in a dish in the booth. I’m confident my voice will make it through the day (yet always a little nervous, because when it goes, it’s gone).

Simon and Eric analyze and time my work as slowly, one paragraph at a time, we work our way through the script. Simon (who’s timed everything to the finished video editing) will say, “I need it half a second faster.” I do it again a bit too fast and he’ll say, “Give me a Goldilocks.” We all know that how each word is hit is critical in making the meanings clear. Saying something worded harshly with a smile can make the point clear without being off-putting.

The mic really is good. It sounds great in my headphones. During one read, I passed a little gas daintily yet audibly. We listened again, and sure enough, it was there. (We left it in — like a builder leaves some fun graffiti under the drywall on the frame of a house he’s building.)

Many pronunciations are debatable. We need to live with whatever pronunciation we choose. Consistency trumps correctness. Mooz-lim, Muzz-lim; ahm-bee-ahnz, am (like yam)-bee-ahnz.

The work drags on. It seems I can always do a paragraph a little better. I’m driven to communicate not words…but ideas. While it’s a nice to be done early enough to beat the miserable Seattle traffic, we didn’t make it. And driving stop-and-go home, I was very excited about having perhaps our best production yet in the can.

Mr. Lazy Blogger, Whatcha Been Doin’?

Wow, I realized there’s been a blog famine. I’ve been busy catching up on my business during a brief window between returning from a two-month European-research trip and vanishing for 20 days — which I hope to do in a day or two to finish a new book of essays about how travel shapes your world view (to be published sometime in 2010). Before I knew it, ten days have passed without an entry, and people are wondering if I fell into one of those Mount Rainier crevasses I wrote about in my last entry.

I love my work because it is a hailstorm of variety. In the last week, I gave a talk at the Adventure Travel show in Seattle (whose attendance was murdered by a sunny weekend). I do travel show talks on the condition that I can give my political talk. Many people gather fun ideas for their upcoming trips at these shows. But sometimes at these shows I feel like I’m in a huge exhibition hall noisy with crass tourism come-ons. It’s a poignant environment for a talk that challenges people to travel for more than gaining calories and a tan.

(By the way, when I call cruising more hedonistic than travel, I don’t say that in a judgemental way. Why do people think hedonism is in itself bad. Cruising is a great passtime and full of fun. It’s… hedonistic.)

Last week I also gave a talk at a fund-raiser for a great group called Global Visionaries which sends Seattle high-school students (whose families can’t afford to give them the luxury of foreign travel) to Guatemala for a chance to connect with a developing world culture and see our country from that vantage point. A 16-year-old girl fresh from her Global Visionaries experience — brimming with passion and hungry for a chance to put her new perspective into action — inspired us all (and was a very tough act to follow).

Just yesterday in Los Angeles, I gave a talk to the German Marshall Fund organization which is a subversive (to ethnocentrism) European organization that funds worthy young American professionals on international educational tours so they can come home and infect their workmates with a global perspective. There were many Europeans at the event and I even got invited by EU parliamentarians to give my talk in Brussels at the EU headquarters. (They figured Europeans are too hard on themselves and could benefit from a Euro-phile American like me, charmed by the Continent’s earnest efforts to grapple smartly with its problems.)

I was actually in Los Angeles to attend the Public Radio Program Directors (PRPD) Convention. The program directors of the nation’s public radio stations gather annually to network, share notes, and work to get the very best lineup of programs. I was there, like many radio producers, to convince those who don’t already air my weekly hour to get on board. (My show is three years old and is now aired by 99 stations. Many checked it out at the start — when I was pretty bad — and said no way. Now, 150 hours of shows later, we’re worth another look.)

I forgot my business cards — but thank goodness, rather than spend our promotional money on a booth, we had opted to buy an ad on the lanyards that held attendees’ convention tags. When someone asked for my Web address, I just pointed to the printing on the strip of cloth around their neck.

It was an oddly different schedule from being at other programs where I usually give talks. When there were workshops, I got to relax, but then during each break, meal, and social event, I worked — meeting all the program directors who needed to know more about my show.

Many of the big NPR personalities were there. The man who wrote this week’s Time magazine feature on our financial crises gave a talk and taught me nothing — other than the realization that I don’t like pundits and experts that try to be humorous as they tell me that no one knows why we’re in this economic mess or where it’s taking us. (My hunch is that the people whose mantra is “get the government off our backs” succeeded. Greed greased the skids — and voila. I wish I understood the whole mess but my gut knows that the money didn’t just vanish. While a tax-paid bail-out may be necessary, I bet it’s just another trickle-up transfer of wealth in disguise. And, while government regulations may be depressing to some, they’re depressing to all when employed only after the abuse they are designed to prevent takes its toll.)

A highlight of my LA visit was a trip to the Getty Center. Wow. Perched above the city, this art museum is as impressive as any museum I’ve seen in Europe. And the city views at sunset are enough to get you started. Architecturally, it’s like walking through a vast computer-generated vision. While there were few famous masterpieces, there were exquisite works by top artists throughout European art history — brilliantly lit and displayed and described as well as any I’ve seen. Oil money put to fine use…thank you Mr. Getty.

The current buzz in radio, as in the newspaper industry, is how to embrace the Web and stay viable. I came out of the PRPD convention committed to making Web-based interactive support for my radio show which each station can host to drive listeners to their websites. And back in my office, I’m in discussions with my newspaper syndicate as they see newspapers readying for the day then they are primarily Web-based news services.

My publisher came to town, took me out to dinner, and tried to convince me to join the move to “pocket-sized full-color” short versions of guidebooks. It’s true that the “top ten” type distillations are out-selling the full-fledged real guidebooks. But I don’t want to enable my travelers to just get everything in bullet points. However, one proposal I jumped at was my publisher’s offer to do a tenth-anniversary edition of my Postcards from Europe book with a 16-page color-photo insert. This book (which I’m busy assembling now — to be published April 2009), with a new intro and “outtro,” or epilogue, commenting on how European travel has changed since its first printing, will make a handsome new version of a book that I think should have done better than it did when produced back in 1999.

In a couple of weeks, we’ll release our new TV series (two years in the making). We currently have 10 shows finished and three more in the works, and it’s exciting to have stations all over the country start airing the new series before we’re done producing all the shows. We are committed to finishing shows 11, 12, and 13 before the first ten weeks of shows go on the air. Because of our shooting schedule, each season we always have this nail-biter finish, but we always deliver in time.

Celebrating Homecoming with a Good Cigar?

 finished my trip with a sprint — updating Bruges and Brussels in a frenzy and using the flight home to input my notes. Getting home was wonderful — seeing family after nearly two months away…finally catching up with Anne…enjoying the last days before empty-nesthood as Jackie, our youngest, is heading off to Georgetown University in three days…and Andy is heading back to Notre Dame in a week.

Our last nights with Andy were particularly fun, as he shared photos from his semester abroad. (I was envious of the fun he had — which we’ll be sharing in a series of entries here shortly.) He’s so excited about the experience, that he’s building a website to share and organize information for other students making weekend trips from their European study home bases.

Travel has gotten Andy into the ritual of appreciating fine cigars. It’s both strange and fun having a 21-year-old son sit on the deck and teach you how to appreciate a good Cuban cigar. Sophisticated as he was in explaining the qualitative differences in cigars from various Latin American countries, he admitted it was un-cool to smoke it right down to the very end. (And sophisticated as he was, I was struck by the fact that this 21-year-old cigar aficionado with the burny fingers had never heard of a roach clip.)

Andy’s youthful sophistication intrigues me. When we met up in London, I took him out to dinner and squirted oil all over my shirt while ripping the head off a shrimp. Andy looked at me and said something like, “Not staining your shirt when you’re eating out is a lifestyle.” Then he shared a highlight of his London stay with me — a cigar lounge. He took me into his favorite, and together we shopped for the best cigar money could buy. (He also showed me how willingly cigar salespeople can slip the ring off a Cuban cigar and slip the cigar into a tin from a country not weathering an American embargo, and suddenly you have no way of knowing where that tobacco actually came from.) Andy knows how to make that effete scene and feel like it’s not forced.

One great thing about doing my work in Europe is that I’m out of touch with the day-to-day challenges back in my office. My first few days back home are always spent getting briefed on things. Tim, my radio producer, announced that (in just our third year on the air) our radio show is now carried weekly by 99 stations. He gave me CDs of new shows (with guests like Salman Rushdie, David Sedaris, Lord John Alderdice, and others) that are just better than ever. We must have a party when we crack 100 stations.

The best news of my homecoming was about our Iran show. The network offered our one-hour special to the public television system and well over a hundred stations responded enthusiastically, saying they’d run our show. Only seven said, “No, thanks.” This means this January, we’ll have our Iran show running in nearly every major city in the USA. Now we set about finishing the show, and I am busy turning my Iran blog and photos into a companion booklet.

Within days of my return, our staff enjoyed a sunny, annual office picnic. It seems like just a couple years ago when there were 20 of us and only a few little kids. Now there are 70 — with probably 30 kids old enough to toss water balloons and whack a piñata.

Packed and Ready After a Wild Week…

I have had the wildest week.

Last weekend, I performed with the Seattle Men’s Chorus (the biggest gay men’s chorus in the country) at McCaw Hall, the Seattle opera house. We did a fun musical extravaganza about Europe and the value of travel.

Early this week, I was featured in a New York Times editorial by Tim Egan (to see it, Google “Rick Steves Egan”…but skip it if you’re tired of my drug-policy stance).

My little sister’s in town from Rhode Island. It’s extremely rare that all five in my family are in the same place at the same time. We’re remembering my 95-year-old Grandmother Erna, who passed away a couple of months ago. (She came over on a WWI-era boat to homestead in Edmonton, Alberta — living what to me is the classic emigrant’s life and leaving a huge and happy American family.)

My friend David Beckmann, president of Bread for the World, was just interviewed on Bill Moyer’s show (airing tonight on PBS). David said that after he suggested Bill have me on to talk the value of travel, my favorite TV journalist said he’d be interested.

My daughter Jackie has been accepted to four great universities (Claremont, Notre Dame, Grinnell, and Whitman) and will hit the road with Anne next week for an in-person look to make the tough decision smartly.

Tomorrow, we are teaching an all-day travel festival that will inundate our little town with travelers.

And the day after tomorrow, I fly to Portugal, kicking off a two-month trip. I’ll be in Portugal for two weeks (researching our guidebook), in Greece and Turkey for three weeks (making TV), and researching in Italy (Amalfi Coast and Cinque Terre — I took the good assignments this year), Germany, and Paris. I’ll fly home for Jackie’s graduation in June.

There you have it. A cheap “what’s up with Rick” entry before hopefully blogging some fun travel experiences in the coming weeks.

Next stop: Lisbon!