Last night I was in Verona, strolling after dinner through a multigenerational sea of people on a wide sidewalk promenade. It was made so wide by the town’s Venetian overloads in the 17th century, so the town’s beautiful people could see and be seen. This morning at breakfast, a tourist asked, “What on earth was going on last night?” I said, “It was just a Thursday night in Verona. The passeggiata is a much-loved sport here. It could have been just about anywhere in the Mediterranean world.”
Here in Verona, Romeo and Juliet seem to be on every tourist’s mind. The “Balcony of Juliet” is a crass and throbbing mob scene, as every tour group in this part of Italy converges on it all day long. As they take snapshots of each other rubbing the statue’s polished breast to get “luck in love,” their guides tell stories about the completely bogus balcony.
But simply out and about, there are little love stories everywhere. I enjoy the simple moments when a snapshot of love flutters in and out of my world like a butterfly: A guy on a bike, with his girlfriend sitting on the handlebars embracing him as somehow he pedals gracefully by. A happily frenzied couple in their 25th year of running a restaurant together with a perfect rhythm of serving great food. He says their goal is to “stir emotions with their cooking.” She says, “Like a cherry under alcohol, he never ages.”
Today Verona is overrun with families: it’s a kids’ fair. Grade-schoolers in tiny numbered jerseys run a kiddie marathon…dads jogging at their sides carrying their water bottles, and countless proud little faces smiling through the exhaustion. Five-year-olds in chef hats learn to make pasta from patient teenagers. Moms give little ones coins to activate the human statues on the pedestrian mall–as kids look with wonder at the statues suddenly coming to life.
When I visited a hotel I recommend, Rosella insisted I see her wing of new rooms. Like all the others, each room had an erotic collage on the wall above a double bed with red heart-shaped pillows. I commented on the passion the rooms evoke. Rosella said her hotel is all about the union of man and woman. She makes all the art while running the hotel. While her husband steamed me an espresso, I commented on her energy. She pointed to her husband, saying, “Amato gives me energy…he’s my mezza mela–half an apple.” Apparently, when soulmates find each other in Italy, it makes the apple whole.
Here in the “land of a thousand bell towers,” people have a great love for their towns as well. As my guide walked me through the cloister of the church, she showed me the tombs of the great early scientists–local boys who made good and whose names live on in their greatest discoveries: Fallopian tubes and Eustachian tubes. Occasionally I scribble in my notebook, feigning interest so as not to disappoint my proud local guide.
Verona, so famous for love, gets countless letters addressed simply to “Juliet, Verona, Italy.” The Juliet Club (www.julietclub.com) has 10 volunteers who actually respond to these mostly lovesick people. My hunch is they live in lands where people are not so connected.
How great to read about your time in Verona as I will be there in August, and have a ticket to see Aida at The Arena! Thanks to your Italy 2007 book and suggestions, I have confirmed a reservation at a small hotel only two blocks away from Piazza Bra. As a first-time visitor to Europe, I am using your materials extensively, saving myself time and money before ever leaving home. They are worth every penny! Thank you and “keep on travelling!”
I have had a few very busy days but had to come get my “Europe fix” from your blog before I go to bed. I loved your opening line, “Last night I was in Verona…” I actually sighed aloud at my computer when I read that!!! I can’t travel anytime soon and the wanderlust is becoming nearly unbearable. My daughter lives in the UK and as I told her today I have to live vicariously through her traveling, your blog helps too. Thanks, Rick!
Hey Rick, those little snapshots of life are everywhere. A few blocks from the Pantheon I was eating lunch at a wonderful little place. I found it while trying to locate one of your recommendations. It was a great “backdoor” find down a small street, filled with businessmen dining al fresco, and a row of scooters parked across from the restaurant. Just then, I spy two beautiful girls walking up the street. Dressed to the nines and wearing impossibly high heels, they walked, click, click, click, to the row of scooters. They grabbed the oldest, smallest, and crappiest(is that a word) Vespa, hopped on, started the engine, and drove off, sitting with perfect posture like they were the royalty. I was mesmerized. It reminded me of a comedy bit by Eddie Izard about the beautiful Romans on their Vespas. All as cool as could be, and all saying “Ciao” as they drive by. It was a fleeting moment and yet it is burned into my memory. Europe has a lot of those memories, eh?
Dear Rick, love reading your blog. Your descriptions are evocative, beautiful “word pictures”. Are you sure you weren’t a poet in your past life? Thanks for the verbal tour every day!
Rick,
Your blog on your travels makes me want to get on a plane and visit Italy again. But, now with 2 children in tow, that day seems farther and farther away. Have you thought of expanding your travel seaches to include family friendly places? We have a 4 year old and a newborn. I would love to take them to Italy to see what we saw on one of your tours but know that the newborn should be at least 5 before we should go. Your thoughts?
Ciao!
Colleen
I must visit Verona! Thanks for the tour of this lovely place.
Rick,
My husband and I have been so engrossed in your travels lately. We love Italy. One question: would you go to Italy during the Christmas holidays. We were thinking Venice and that area and ending in Rome.
Rick,
No need to respond. Just found all the info on the Christmas in Europe blog on your website.
We’ll be taking V/F/R in 10 days tour in November of this year…we look forward to seeing Italy as a tourist through the backdoor…We’re from the land of Disney World and see tourists of all types 365 days a year…we’re determined not to be the loud and obnoxious Americans and that is one of the main reasons we chose your group…that and we love your PBS shows…were addicted!!!
Hi, Rick. Thanks for taking us along on your trip through the blog. I was wondering, after spending so much time in Europe for so many years, how do you keep things fresh? I was on my first trip to Europe last summer (and actually ran into you on La Via dell’Amore in the Cinque Terre) and everything was so new and wonderful. How do you keep that same sense of youthful excitement once you’ve been to a place and already seen all the sights? Enjoy the rest of your trip. Be safe.
Jeff asked such a great question! I bet much of us wonder about this. I imagine you keep the excitment and freshness because you love the people there so much. People can always be different, but the sights stay the same. But still interesting of course.
Hello Rick: a quick comment from an Anglo-Italian who’s ended up dumping an excellent job in London and moved back to Italy (Rome) to help other lovers of all Roman.
In order to do so I set up a site and found some attractive apartments and then started to write about all that I loved (virtually written a book on ancient Rome in the site + wrote a free guide to the city). I shan’t make a self reference as this isn’t the place for an add but in essence I was forced to learn much about web authoring. Something I was often told by the “pros” of web authoring (eg see Jacobson) is that wide text and “large” paras might do well to be broken up a little to help that reader’s eye scanning (especially for us with the bad eyes)?
I’m jealous of course: how can one manage to infuse as much of one’s own love for something to so many? Bravo Bravissimo from Mr Gelosissimo.
Hi, Rick,
Love your books, TV show, blog, etc.
One question: Why do you never mention Bologna? We are going to Italy next month and will spend a few days in Bologna. Where will be able to find information about this city?
Thanks…
Hi, Rick, I love Verona, and on two occasions have had the opportunity to bring other people there. Most of all, I love the early evening light. I look across the river through the tiny bit of mist off the water to houses, painted wonderful gold and burnt sienna, and fall in love with Italy all over again. Besides this memory, I think how we could “do” Verona in a day and night. It’s a small comfortable city. The last time there, the hotel proprietor had to drive with me to direct me to a parking space. On the way we were stopped by parking enforcement. A crane on a truck was positioned over the misbehaved car and some kind of clamp or chain attached to the four tires. The car was lifted bodily out of its space and onto a flat bed. Apparently the driver could expect a large fine for parking in a handicapped spot. I was amazed and forewarned. It’s so tempting in Italy to want to park somewhere illegal.
Thanks for your great blogging. Betty
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Dear Rick, Last night on Vision TV i watched a show simply called Dear Juliet, it explained the phenomenon of people writing to Verona for advice on their love life. I was amazed and thought it a bit sad. I was just recently in Italy had not the time to visit Verona but hope to some day. This is how I came across your web page by typing in dear Juliet of Verona. I’d thought to see more excerpts from the letters and how this all came to be and how long its been going . Cio Antonina August 29th 20007
Badly need your help. Go through your phone book, call people and ask them to drive you to the airport. The ones who will drive you are your true friends. The rest aren’t bad people; they’re just acquaintances. Help me! I can not find sites on the: Payday loan. I found only this – payday loan online. Quercetin is anti allergic and is a potent inhibitor of the mast cell release of from this herb have strong anti allergic and anti inflammatory effects. Allergen immunotherapy has evolved as faster, safer, longer lasting treatment significant economic advantages over anti allergic drug treatment in the long. Waiting for a reply :o, Drew from Rwanda.
Dear Rick and all Travelers, I’ll be visiting Verona in August. I am fluent in Spanish and under the assumption that Italians do not tend to be bilingual Italian /English though I am not certain if they speak/understand spanish . If needed, should I use Spanish or english? I have reserved a private room in a b&B. There is no Air Conditioning so I am also wondering wether it will be comfortable there in August? The room is $105 per night for a double. Enjoyed your story. Any help is greatly welcome. Thank you