As you read this, I’m in Rome, updating my guidebook and running into lots of happy travelers. I’ve been here just 48 hours, and the Eternal City is pelting me with experiences.
For centuries, pilgrims have been climbing the Scala Santa on their knees. And for decades, I’ve been watching them. (These are the “Holy Stairs” of Pontius Pilate’s palace that Christ climbed the day he was condemned. Emperor Constantine’s mother Helena brought the staircase home to Rome after a trip to the Holy Land in 334. I can imagine Constantine rolling his eyes and saying, “Mom, bring home smaller souvenirs!”)
Yesterday, a voice inside me said “do it!” and I tried the climb myself. Knees screaming, weathered faithful struggling up the staircase with me, fresco of a crucified Christ high above, I climbed the 28 wooden steps. With each polished step, I learned a bit about both the bone structure of my knees and the value of pain when praying.
Last night, in an entirely different mindset, as I was finishing up a fine meal with a Roman friend, he paused to savor his glass of grappa. I tried my best to enjoy the local firewater, and failed. Sipping the grappa, Stefano instructed me: “You must not be in a hurry when taking a grappa!” He then shared with me his ultimate joy: having a glass of grappa with a Tuscan cigar on his sailboat halfway to Corsica. (A Cuban cigar tastes better, but on a sailboat, “the wind will smoke it for you” ‘ so a slower-smoking Tuscan best completes the scene.)
From holy stairs to sacred firewater, I’ll be reporting all month from Italy on this blog and my Facebook page. Join me, and I promise some fun and vivid insights into my favorite country.
I`ve always avoided Rome because of friends who have been pick-pocketed, the crowds, the traffic etc. Perhaps Rick can convince me to visit it. I do like certain parts of Italy like Umbria, Cinque Terre etc.
So how do your knees feel today? Can you walk?
I saw those stairs a couple of months ago but there was no way I was going to climb them on my knees! (I walked around instead.) But Rome was hard on my knees anyway – my tendonitis started there and followed me for weeks. Maybe I should have said a prayer for my knees. ;)
Among the “lots of happy travelers” you ran into in Rome was my sister and her husband. They had your guidebook in-hand…I hope they had the good sense to get your autograph! The photo is here: http://tinyurl.com/rickstevesroma
Ahhhh, Roma. I had your guidebook in hand when I toured the Eternal City for a week at Christmas 2006, Rick. Although so many thoughts come rushing back to me when I think about that trip, one memory that stands out was observing the Forum from the vantage point of the north entry (a vista near near the Piazza del Campidoglio). It was on Christmas Eve morning, about 8:00am, the sun just rising over the eastern hills, chilly air, and I was too early to actually enter the Forum. However, I was the only soul around, save for the souvenir guy getting ready to open his stand down the stairs near the entrance. It was the oddest and most sublime experience I think I`ve ever had as a tourist: here I was at the heart of ancient Rome, and no other tourists were in sight, at least from the north entrance! I felt as though I had the Forum all to myself. It was truly astounding. The only thing I could chalk it up to was the fact that it Christmas Eve that year, and also happened to be a Sunday morning. Perhaps folks were just sleeping in or where at church. In any case, it was an impression I`ll never forget.
Great pic Cal. Looks like they caught him before ducking down an alley. La Dolce Vita 2. I love hearing about Rick`s religious excursions. Especially the Camino de Santiago in Spain which was on his latest DVD set. I immediately started researching it and found this rather informative site. I typically don`t like posting outside travel links but I don`t think Rick would mind this site doesn`t seem like it was made for profit. http://www.caminodesantiago.me.uk/ If anyone has experienced this pilgrimage, the stairs, or any others would like to hear about them.
When you share your stories like that, it`s like I`m right there with you. Thanks for that. You have a gift for writing. Have a great time researching.
Rome is my favorite city by far, and Italy is my favorite country. One of the most moving moments for me was visiting the crypts of early Christians. I literally felt the holy and hallowed ground, and visiting the tomb of St. Cecilia, my deceased mother`s name, was equally as moving. This type of blog entry is why I keep coming back … looking forward to reading all month long.
One of the best memories of my life was flying over Rome on a cloudless day and seeing the whole city laid out below. It was stupendous, never to be forgotten.
“Cobblestone, no matter how quaint and picturesque, is not our friend!!” Collective quote from The Feet, The Knees, The Hips and The Back. ;) Love the blog!
Rome is wonderful. Take time to see it and don`t rush. If you can manage the time view the sights in daylight and again at night. See the big stuff and then make time for the out of the way places Rick suggests. “When in Rome”………. Found great experiences in Rome and at the Vatican. I thought the view from atop the dome in the Vatican was as beautiful as much of the artwork…. Literally bumped into one of Ricks tours at Spanish steps, then again at night at Trevi Fountain. Excited to read your blog in the weeks to come, Rick.
So true Sarah, I remember cobblestones so fondly as a child. Recently I visited a nearby historic town center with old rough cut cobblestones, took 15 steps on them and said, “thanks, but no thanks.” I`m Catholic and excited about the chance to visit the Vatican, but I will be limited on time spent in Rome. I want to see as much as possible. Is it possible to see much of the Vatican in half a day or should I plan on a full day.
Imagine going DOWN those steps on your knees. ;-) Rick is back traveling again, yay! Looking forward to armchair-traveling, well computer desk-traveling, with you for the next few weeks and more. Ryan: Wonderful memory! I can picture it.
Hey Rick: I just got back from Rome with a group of students from Western Nevada College (Fallon and Carson City). We were there for 8 days and had a great trip!! I`m writing to you to communicate thanks from both myself and Gaetano Manfredi. A couple of students of mine, Gwynne Matlavage and Liz Etheridge, mentioned that Gaetano was recommended by you as a guide to Pompeii and they thought it would be a good idea to employ him. After careful consideration, I agreed! Well, as you know, he`s a real intellectual, historian, and entertainer rolled into one and he made our visit to Pompeii a truly special experience. Plus we got to see Pompeiian porn! (Though I recently read the frescoes were really a witty way of remembering where your clothes basket was stored!) Thanks for all the practical information you provide for world travelers! We should talk sometime about the best way to see look at art! Ciao! Have a great time in Italy!! Gil Martin
I`m headed to Northern Italy in June…reading & watching everything of yours to be 100% sure I`m prepared! Ciao!
I don`t know if this is the right place to ask this question, but I saw an episode of Rick Steves` Europe this weekend (French Riviera), and before the program began, the words “Additional funding provided by Bread for the World” flashed on the screen. I know that Rick is involved with this charity, but I`m curious as to what their funding arrangement is. It seems odd that they`re funding Rick`s TV show. Does anybody know about this? Thanks!
Maybe I never paid attention (which isn`t unheard of) but I always thought that the he included Bread for the World to promote the charity and increase its exposure for donations.
Either way, after reading about Rick purchasing that housing complex and turning it into a shelter for abused women. I tend to support all charities he promotes. Regardless of what he says politically. Someone who puts their money where the mouth is, is rare these days.
Well we decided to go on a “mediteranian” cruise in June, we tried to stay in the US but it was so expensive to stay anywhere, we actually got a fantastic deal for June. I think with the Euro being so much stronger a lot of Europeans are coming here which leads to higher prices in the US. Anyway this will be my third time in Rome and it can be a very painful city if you don`t wear the right shoes! I can`t imagine trying to walk up stairs in rock and granite on my knee`s!!! Hope that turned out ok! Tours and cruises are great because you are paying in US dollars, also we are staying in Barcelona on our own and I was surprised the deals the hotels are running there too. Less that what is posted in the RS guide book on Barcelona.
IO, even rarer is one who gives and does not broadcast it, but enjoys it quietly by himself.
You were at the Oceania Hotel in Rome a day prior to your tour group that stayed there. Why didn`t you stay another day and say hello?
ok I know this is sooooo off topic and actually pretty childish but I just couldn`t resist. Rick I think your word security verifier is feeling a little saucy to post my comment it wants me to enter the word “ORGY.” I`m not sure how to take this. is your verifier trying to tell me to broaden my sexual horizon or is it trying to get a rise out those of us who are conservative. Ok last one, I know the topic is in Rome but were talking “Holy Stairs” not “Caligula”. Ok sorry I`m done lol. Now I must type in o r g y. tata.
The Scala Santa is important to my brother, sister and me to see when we visit Rome for 4 days in May. I don`t know that we`ll climb them as you did, Rick. (And consider how long it was before you felt compelled.) My problem is that I can`t find directions in your Italy guidebook. I`m using the 2010 edition which, otherwise, has been a marvelous resource. Any guidance?
Anne: In the 2009 edition of Rick`s Italy, you`ll find the Holy Steps clearly marked on the “Pilgrim`s Rome” map. I would imagine that same map is included in all editions of the Italy guide book.
We went to Italy in February and March of this year. We were apprehensive about Rome, and made up our minds not to like it. The trip from the airport to the hotel showed building after building decorated with graffiti. However, after exploring the city on our own, we fell in love with it. It is really a wonderful city, and one can walk everywhere or take the highly efficient subway system which takes you to most of the major sites. The five days that we spent there was not enough. Yes, there are pick pockets and crime, but this problem exist everywhere. Just be extra careful. We plan on returning to Rome pretty soon, especially now that we`ve thrown coins into the Trevi Fountain.
I`ve read several post about the pickpocketing and crime in Rome. Is this something that most have experienced on their trips? Or is it more likely to happen to the unaware tourist?
I have traveled all over in Europe, Italy, Greece, France, Spain, etc. The one and only time I`ve been robbed was when my wallet was lifted from my purse in the Frankfurt Railway station . Interestingly, the police had the phone numbers of all the major credit card companies and even dialed them for me so that I could report the stolen cards. I don`t think any country or city has cornered the market on thievery.