We just finished filming a new show on Slovenia and it occurred to me that a tiny, typically overlooked nation of two million people is diverse and fascinating enough to pack a fine, 30-minute program. Discussing this with my camera crew, I dreamed up a new measure for shows: locals per script.
I wondered out loud if this ratio was the lowest population per episode of the hundred and some shows we’ve done so far: one show for two million people. Then we remembered Ireland — four shows for four million people. Poland — one show for 40 million — is about our worst by that measure. Thirteen shows on Italy is a lot but still some five million Italians per episode.
Relating back to our recent discussion of noisy American travelers: Travelers needing to avoid the noise can go to smoking sections — where they still exist. I was once settling into the scenic “Norway in a Nutshell” train ride from Oslo to Bergen. My car was a noisy commotion of American tourists. You know I love Americans — even noisy ones (a group to which, on occasion, I belong). But I was in a quiet mood…just wanted to be me, the rhythm of the rails, and Norway’s best mountain scenery. I simply moved to the smoking car — not a tourist in sight, just quiet Norwegians.
The same trick works in restaurants. If you don’t like the tourist noise…move to the smoking section (or dine after nine when the tables are filled with discrete Europeans rather than Americans who dine earlier).
Here are some thought-provoking comments I’ve heard in the last few days: Rome is no Legoland. I’m very much against gastronomic fundamentalism (go ahead, drink red wine with fish). The last games with the Olympic spirit were Sapporo in 1972 (then came Munich). Slovenian women have the strongest handshakes in Europe. Croats seem self-assured in their ineptitude. Seeing the decrepit and massive old factories here makes me nostalgic for my stamp collection.
Walking across an almost desolate square in the almost desolate Istrian Peninsula hilltown of Motovun a couple nights ago, I was marveling at how dead the town was. Then I heard a men’s a cappella group practicing. I snooped around to find out where they were. Around the corner, I went up a short flight of stairs and stared at a closed door separating me from their heavenly singing. I gently pushed the door open just a crack to see the group. It was a dozen men sitting in a half-circle with their backs to me, led by a woman director with springy hair who looked like a mad, young, female Beethoven standing before them and her electric keyboard. She saw me, abandoned her group, and literally ran to the door I opened. She opened the door further and invited me in with enthusiasm in keeping with her directing style. I pulled out a chair and savored the chorus — a traditional klapagroup typical of the Dalmatian Coast.
Bringing in my film crew, producer Simon agreed it was a magic moment…and we captured it, kicking off our Croatia episode with a wonderful bit of what we call “positive serendipity.” The lesson (which I intend to work into the script): when out wandering, poke around and risk having a door slammed on you — in order to risk being invited in.
Since I definitely plan to be in Croatia in the fall and perhaps also in Slovenia, your last posts from these two places have been inspiring. Good suggestions for avoiding the noisy folk. But how do you manage to tolerate the smoking sections? Even I as one who used to smoke cigarettes find the smell just awful.
Does anyone miss the smoke besides me? I used to like to hit places that had smokers. Maybe it reminds me of my German Nana. I mean when did a Pub not smell like smoke? Wheres the nostalgia? You adjust to it. In France everyone smokes. I hate that individual liberty has been so crucified. I mean if you want to drink yourself silly you can. I am not a smoker but an occasional cigar is awesome. YES YES YES I know Cigs are bad for everyone but damn you should be able to light up if it doesn’t offend anyone.
Wow what a great moment to find that group as you were walking around. I like you love classical as well as other types of music. Thats why I liked your Christmas special because of some of the great music you discovered. Some of the best memories we make are the unplanned ones. Several years ago I was wandering around Salt Lake City on a Thurs eve and found the Mormon Tabernacle Choir practicing. An hour I will never forget. Cant wait to see this show although I know it wont be out until 2010
What great advice while traveling; taking the chance that someone might close the door, when the alternative is that they might actually open the door and welcome you in. Taking the path less chosen as a tourist is really the way to meet the people. I will never forget an evening when I met a father and his young son. I observed the father reviewing a musical manuscript and teaching his son about what was happening in a piece by Vivaldi. I was so struck by how strange it was to me that I interrupted them. Neither was a musician, but they both enjoyed music. I walked away knowing that the French people were both hungry for knowledge and some of the best people on earth. We can find that beauty in all lands and among all people if we look for it.
Seeing the decrepit and massive old factories here makes me nostalgic for my stamp collection. I know the look of those monstrosities well… but I’m puzzled by the second part of your statement. Explanation? Seeing the remnants of the state-managed command economies, I was nostalgic for trees and fresh air. I wonder someday if the hulking relics of the communist era will become tourist curiosities much, as the remnants of the WWII era have? Anyone interested in the “Glittering Hall” (an infamous room in an East German factory that received its name from the mercury dripping all over the walls)?
I’m with Louisa – the smoking cure sounds as bad as the noisy disease. (But I thought most European trains were now non-smoking?) I made the mistake of eating outside in Paris last month, and skipped dessert and coffee because of the chain-smokers around me. Fred says: “you should be able to light up if it doesn’t offend anyone” – maybe, but how do you know whether it’s going to offend a bunch of strangers? It used to be that the default was “it’s OK to smoke”, which was tough for the non-smokers, now we’re moving to where the default is “it’s not OK to smoke” which is tough for the smokers – but I think there’s fewer of them. And imagine, a few hundred years ago no-one in Europe smoked.
I have to say that I love the non-smoking. It looks like Wisconsin may finally enact a state-wide no smoking law. I will also say that there are times when a whiff of smoke will take me right back to Greek cafes. Of course, then I remember that the smell of diesel bus will do the same thing! ; ) It is a matter of public health, not just the patrons, but the workers as well. Pam
Great blog! I will be in Rome with three other adults in May. Who should I contact about having a driver to take us to Florence for a day and for another day to drive us to Montepulciano? Do you think it would be very expensive to have some one drive us versus a rental car or train?
The experience with the choir reminds me of driving thru Limavady in Northern Ireland late one afternoon. We saw girls practicing Irish dancing on the sidewalk and stopped the car to get a picture. Their mothers came over and invited us to attend a dance competition. We went in and watched the dancing for an hour or so. When we came out the local band was parading down the street with about 20 other bands, celebrating their anniversary. It was a great evening with the locals.
Rick gets all the breaks, I remember taking a chance like that in Turkey. Lets just say if looks could kill I would have been vaporized.
When you walk away from a noisy group you leave the noise behind. When you walk away from a smoking group you take along their smoke on your clothes in your hair and in your lungs.
So does this mean that Poland is going to get a little love next year? I’m dying to hear what you think about the Tatras Mountains in the Zakopane area. You could do a split Poland / Slovakia show. Think about it!
Nancy and I happened upon a boys choir rehearsal in much the same way in the cathedral in Toledo. We faintly heard singing, and left the “touristic areas” to find the source of the angelic sound. That was 31 years ago, but it made an impression on both of us.
Again Rick – a great Blog. I am reminded of an evening in April of 2004. We were in Lauterbrunnen at the Staubbach. It was before the tourist season and the town was super quiet. We were one of only three couples at the hotel. As we were sitting on our third floor balcony listening to the falls and enjoying some local cheese and wine we heard from across the street, what we later learned was the local singing group, practicing a song from “Phantom of the Opera” one of our favorites. What a great night.
I am so happy to see that you are visiting Croatia (my home country) again. While living in Calgary, AB, we use to watch your show on PBS, which helped us feel more close to Europe. Thank you for that. We were a bit disappointed with your first show about Croatia. Approach was a bit ‘dry’ so to speak, and Croatia is nothing like that. I hope you will visit Zagreb and continental part of Croatia and show this great diversity that exists in such a small area.
Rick, on my last rome visit I chose to walk across the city, spending an afternoon entering each church I came upon. Rome has hundreds of chruches. I saw perhaps a dozen. My path found some churches were grand, with gilt and marble, and many were others just humble, and a bit threadbear. One especially took my fancy, this one for saint lawrence, my namesake. A mass occurred as I looked around this both grand and threadbear structure which was undergoing restoration. A dozen women, a couple young and stylish, but most older, in non-descript dark dress kneeled before the priest. I sat down, quiet, watching, through the service. After the mass ended, the priest came up to me, thanking me for respectful behavior during that time. Other visitors had entered during the service, walked around, talked and took flash pictures. In fair english he asked about my behavior and how I seemed a different sort of tourist. I said I was a traveler, not tourist, and telling him of my interest in his church. At that point he said follow me, and for the next 40 minutes or so we walked through the behind-the scenes nooks and corners of his thousand plus year old church. He explained the many re-constructions and restorations, the times the popes of the past days came to bless the changes and finally allowed me to look and touch the carved marble throne-like chair where a pope first sat to dedicate the original church. This chair of stone was buried deep behind/between several later remodels, in a room now used for church cleaning supplies. It was just one amazing site on an amazing day of open doors across my favorite city for this averge curious traveler. Larry from springfield.
I will always be grateful I pushed open the door to an occupied hot tub room in Belgium, when I was 16. There sat (I found out later)a NATO general, his wife and stunningly beautiful 16 year old daughter. I was in my swim trunks, but once I got in, Julia teased them off me, with the encouragement of her parents. It was a huge and ultimately glorious shedding of the dogma of my Utah up-bringing.
I agree with Chris that Poland deserves a little love! I was immediately enchanted with it and it still has a strong hold on me. Krakow is my favorite city – hands down! Maybe it’s because,as you said in your book,”it’s made for aimless strolling.” But Poland’s appeal is more than that. It’s the beautiful countryside with its fields of wild flowers and beech forests hiding tiny chapels; charming cities and towns; fascinating and often heartbreaking history; strong, resilient, warm people…don’t get me started! Rick, give Poland its props! :-)
Great post, Rick. Have a cigar! or a Blunt. Hey, how about a section in your books that tells us how Marijuana friendly a destination is? You know, 5 leaves for real friendly and jail bars for not so friendly. Eventually your clientele demographic is going to turn over and this will be helpful info.
Couldn’t agree more with the closed doors. When staying at the Oceania Hotel in Rome last year (where there’s a small church on the ground floor), went out for a smoke. Heard a beautiful tenor opera sound and when investigating, it was a rehearsal, in the church, for an upcoming opera ‘festival’. Opened the door, went in, was greeted with smiles from the few people watching, a nod from the singer, and he continued. I ain’t an opera person but it was absolutely lovely and I stayed for almost an hour. When returning to the room, my wife thought I’d been kidnapped; right, with my bank balance! Rick, please mention the names of the villages and towns from where you’re blogging. I’ve gone back to the April blogs when you were in Pays Basque and followed them through until Slovenia; and I know both places reasonably well. Would have been nice to know where exactly you were (ie: nipped into France from Spain for a meal -from where to where?). Since you are on the clock, I trust you`re not having too much fun; right.
I just looked through the E-newsletter from Europe Through The Backdoor that I received yesterday and checked out the link for the TIME magazine article about you, Rick. Impressive. My non-spammer word: “working”. So true.
Obertraun, Austria gave us the chance to socialize with convivial locals (no other U.S.visitors) at a local oompa concert. One person spoke some English and helped us mix. Conversely, Mexican army officers did not appreciate my accidental intrusion dressed in swim trunks at their awards banquet. Worst of all was being assaulted by a German shepherd guard dog in Milan when I tried to enter a restuarant not yet open for dinner. So a word to the wise is sufficient. Something BETWEEN timidness and brashness is probably the best and most acceptable policy.
We were in Pinswang Austria when we heard band music coming from the nearby band shell. Picnic tables were set out before the performing orchestra and local town’s people began to gather. It was a small group listening to the band all in uniform. Schnaps girls appeared with small kegs of the tasty liquid, selling sips for one euro. We were the only American’s there that evening, drinking schnaps and eating pretzels as the sun set behind the Alps.
I just got back from Switzerland and Spain. Lauterbrunnen was beautiful. Your advice about pickpockets in Spain saved us alot of inconvenience. We had two encounters with thieves on the Metro. ( they didn’t get anything)!Thanks, Rick!
I’ve been to Croatia three times in the past three years. I laughed at the comment about Croatian ineptitude. Sounds like something the Slovenes would have said, since that is a long running joke for them in Slovenia. I am glad you spent time in Motovun and I hope you took time to go inland to places less touristy. One of my purposes in spending time in Croatia is I’m a Class IV kayaker and Croatia has some of the most beautiful whitewater river running in ex-Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, Europeans have become enamored of damming rivers for hydropower and ruining the best of the last that is left. And Croatia is no different. Hopefully you’ll meet Zeljko Kelemen who runs Huck Finn,a river company. Zeljko is our age and a national whitewater champion and ex Olympic team medalist in kayaking.
I was pleased to hear about your unplanned experience in Motovun (spelling?) I had a similar one in Athens…walking by, I heard music in the background. I walked around the building to investigate and was greeted by a man who told me (in Engish) that an orchestra was rehearsing for a performance that night – a performance to commemorate the deaths of Greeks by the Turks 70 years earlier – and invited me to attend. It was a fabulous cultural experience of poetry, music, dance, sadness, emotion. Wonderful! What an encouragement to snoop!
I am a first generation Istrian & was wondering if you have any video/information about the peninsula. I have done quite a bit of research in America and it seems to finish it I would need to go there. My grandma is from Lanisce in cicerija near the Slovenian boarder & my grandpa is from Trivis near Pazin.