(Note: If you are one of the few who do not immediately see the images below, keep scrolling down until they appear.)
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As I do every year, I spent four months in 2010 wandering around Europe, looking for something good to eat and a safe place to sleep. |
Bratislava, capital of Slovakia and just an hour from Vienna by train, bus, or boat — and a wonderful side-trip — is the comeback kid among European capitals. Its entire Danube riverfront is well on its way to becoming a delightful people zone. |
In a pub in Prague with my musician and tour guide friends, we sat next to Count Schwarzenberg, the newly elected charismatic playboy who finds himself a key player in the new Czech government. Considered by many the new political hope for that country, he sat down with his young staff to find the best way to implement their vision. |
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The saddest thing I witnessed all summer was in Vienna at the famous pastry shop, Demel. At precisely 7:00 pm they lock their doors and dump all the unsold cakes and pies on their luxurious shelves into big plastic garbage bags. |
The hottest new sight in Munich is BMW-Welt, the showroom and museum at the BMW car headquarters and factory (with the city subway zipping visitors from downtown to literally its doorstep in minutes). The sweeping architecture invites you into a state-of-the-art interactive showroom and its adjacent museum. It’s enough to make anyone a car buff. |
Sleeping in airports can be amazingly comfortable. And the price is always right. |
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A fun new tote bag on sale in Vienna reveals all, making X-rays at the airport unnecessary. |
There are new challenges that come with Europe’s insistence on being ahead of the USA in many techie areas. As it moves quickly to a cashless society, many European machines accept only credit cards that come with a chip. And, as American banks are sticking with the magnetic strip, that means American cards don’t work in these cases. (Little challenges like these make a good guidebook all the more helpful.) |
I got all excited when, in a great little restaurant in St. Jean-de-Luz in French Basque country, the owner of the place whispered into my ear, “You might be interested that the last wife of Pablo Picasso, Françoise Gilot, is sitting just over there.” She was in town with her own art exhibit. Quite elderly, she seemed full of vigor and style. While tempted, I didn’t invade her privacy for a closer photo. Amazing to think that from 1945 to 1953 she was the muse (and corralled the sexual energy) of Picasso. |
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With bright-red press vests, my cameraman Karel Bauer and I enjoyed front-row spots to film the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona for a new TV show. The show is part of our new series — 11 shows debuting nationally on PBS this fall. Stay tuned! |
The city of Pamplona knows how to keep things organized, as the biggest and wildest party in Europe seemed to be perfectly run. |
Filming in Pamplona, we had plenty to shoot and lots of drunken troubadours to entertain us…even if strumming only the neck of a guitar. |
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The year 2010 was Holy Year in Santiago de Compostela. And that meant at each Mass they swung the massive incense burner, the botafumeiro. In mid-Mass, I caught a priest being more of a tourist than a priest. I hope he doesn’t get in any trouble for his lack of focus. |
After years of seeing groups of tourists rolling oddly through towns on Segway tours, I finally took one. While they are expensive (nearly $100) and not really the most efficient way to “tour,” I must admit the experience is lots of fun. After a 10-minute training session, gyroscopes spinning, we roll into the city. In Paris there are plenty of quiet lanes and parks and bike paths to Segway on. |
For 10 days in England I prioritized my limited time to actually have the experiences — take the hikes, see the shows, follow the audio tours — produced by various sights. One thing I learned: A hike is about the best three hours you can invest when in places like the Cotswolds and the Cumbrian Lake District, where you’re there to enjoy the natural wonders. Hiking Catbells — a ridge trail leading all along and over a small mountain overlooking the lake called Derwentwater in the Lake District — was a highlight of my summer. |
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Being in Athens is generally a battle between you and a million cars. But if there in mid-August during a sweltering heat wave, you have the streets literally all to yourself. Athens was eerily quiet during the midday heat. |
My vote for the best new sight in Europe: Athens’ Acropolis Museum. With great architecture, great presentation, and an inspirational setting, it looks straight across at the actual Acropolis. I think the National Archaeological Museum, long the dominant museum in town, will see a dip in its attendance. |
I love to meet enthusiastic history teachers inspiring their students to enjoy the rubble of ancient Europe. Here in Athens’ ancient Agora, a teacher was a bit over-the-top in his desire to bring those ruins to life. On that visit, I was inspired myself to help out by producing more audio tours. We’ll produce four new Athens tours (Acropolis, Agora, National Archaeological Museum, City Walk), three for Vienna (Ringstrasse, City Walk, St. Stephen’s Cathedral), one for Salzburg (City Walk), and maybe even a narrated Rhine tour for train and boat travelers. |
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I reaffirmed and stoked my love of the island of Hydra last month. Just two hours by fast ferry from Athens, this island is a wonderland. Frisky shuttle boats zip you to remote beaches from where peaceful trails lead you back into town. |
Hard at work in Europe. Here I am, bravely visiting Greece during its economic meltdown. With my eyes closed, enjoying both the breeze and the sun, I’m thinking of the many people who opted out of visiting Greece because of hysterical news coverage. I’m pondering how each of us has a choice in how we lead our lives. I thought how fear is for people who don’t get out much and how glad I am to be finished with TV news — to no longer be held captive by a news media with so much time and so little to say. |
Home sweet home. I’ve been away for four of the last five months. Now, travel research done until next year, I’m thankful to have such a wonderful place to call home. |
Rick's photos are a great reminder how wonderful it is to travel. The experience not only give great memories but helps understand other countries when they make our news.
Rick, is this the first time we've seen you wearing blue jeans in Europe? The images and captions are a great treat. My wife and I are anxiously anticipating travels with ETBD in 2011. Those of us who are able and fortunate enough to travel are more than rewarded for our time and efforts. While I never regret one day or dollar spent abroad I would have to echo your sentiments on your last image. As Dorothy said, "There's no place like home!"
There is no substitution for cash if you are concerned about your American credit card or bank atm card not working. You can count on it not working in some places. Just keep your hands on it in crowded places – or at least use a money belt or neck pouch. As for being on the road 4 out of 5 months, consult your family physician about taking a daily baby aspirin to help protect your arteries from Euro food clogging. And when traveling, arm yourself with both Immodium AD and Pepto Bismol.
Rick….. great synopsis of your summer! Thanks for the tip regarding the ATM machines and very glad to hear you're expanding your audio walking tours! P.S….spend some time at the gym while you're home. You're 'success' is beginning to show! :-D
Rick: I had to LOL…your pix are so fun! Don't sweat remarks from the too thin crowd…enjoy life!
I've found life to be even MORE enjoyable when you're fit….. plus you can enjoy it LONGER!
Wasn't suggesting Rick wasn't fit. But even fellow marathon runner Jim Fixx died of a heart attack at 30 because they didn't know as much back then. It's just that: if you are male; if you are over 40; if your diet isn't perfect; if there is a genetic predisposition – check with your MD first of course – but then at least consider a baby aspirin. Genetics loads the gun. Environment pulls the trigger. Incidentally, NIH/CDC studies (absolutely no guarantees) indicate that a small daily dose of Pepto may prevent the need for Imodium AD. So it might even be possible to avoid: The Tijuana Two Step, Montezeuma's Revenge, The Acropolis Anguish, the Botticelli bounce [INVALID] you get the picture.
Thanks Rick, you made my day..an audio tour in Athens..Please add all the sites in the Acropolis Ticket, the sites are amazing…The Kallimarmaro now has audio tours there and you are allowed in, this would be great coming from you..then to Olympeion, cross street Lysicrates, Philappos Monument, socrates prison, the fabulous Keramikos, tower of the winds and the evocative Dionysos Theater…eg. Listening to you explain the history of this theater explaining Thespis, Aristophonies etc..The birth and evolution of western civilization…so much history…I have used your books to Paris and Rome..you are so enthusiastic in these books, your first book of Athens lacked that passion, however, somehow I believe you have found it..LOL, it actually shows in what you have been writing about Athens..yiasou fili
Didn't mean to start a health discussion….. just poking a little fun at Rick, who obviously works extremely hard in being the BEST at what he does! I was merely pointing out that he just may just be sampling a bit too much of the local cuisine; but if I were in his shoes, I just might do the same!
Great to see Rick in jeans finally. Now he fits in with the rest of the people who live in Europe! That is sad about the bakery. Too bad they don't donate it to a soup kitchen or retirement home or something like that. That is what most nice restaurants and bakeries do in big cities. Throwing it aways is so wasteful and they should be ashamed to continue this practice. I think it is funny hearing health tips about the dangers of eating in Europe. People are much more fit here, eat much more healthily and walk 10 times more, than people in America. As to the alluding to health problems similar to Montezuma Revenge, this is caused by bacteria in water and foods in countries who don't have high standards. This is certainly not the case anywhere in Europe. Wondering if "b" has traveled very much in Europe?
One last thought…If you did an audio tour of the Acropolis Ticket sights, would you please call it what the Greeks are calling it "The Walkway of the Gods", what a fitting name…Have a great day
After years in Germany, Belgium, Nederlands, England, Austria, France, Australia, New Zealand, Italy plus visits to Spain and Portugal, I must have missed out on seeing a healthy Mediterranean Diet actually consumed by anyone there. I suspect the bratwurst, pasta, bread, tapas, ham and various sauces, plus beer and rich pastries are preferable to the indigenous population versus fish unless it's fried. Even then some of the restaurants cook it like the catch of the day is YOU. And many fellow travelers have gotten Botticelli's revenge – which has just as much to do with the body's reaction to simply different kinds of bacteria as it does to poor health standards. As for fitness, you could smoke a pack a day even if you don't smoke just by passing by a cafe' So even if the local chamber of commerce is shaking pom poms and leading a cheer, take it all with a grain of salt (forget the salt) and exercise some common sense about food as you travel.
When I was on the continent I always admired the Austrians' fitness. They would come from Vienna and walk briskly through the forests of Werfan – then stop and picnic at cafes in the middle of the woods. But I could never get past the amount of cheese and cold cuts and creamy milk consumed by Europeans. I would substitute orange juice for milk on my cereal and skip the cold cuts for breakfast. Cheese, glorious cheese, morning noon and night – well, binding doesn't just apply to your skis. And sometimes fitness is mandatory in Europe. Half the continent can seem to be on strike forcing people to ride bikes or walk. Today, for example, you can get your exercise in France and England because the metro and underground workers are on strike. I remember well schlepping my bag down the Champs Elysee in Paris for 3 miles during another strike. A few weeks ago, you might have swum to the Greeks Isles because the ferry's were being picketed. In the U.S I think Coloradans are the most fit, Mississippians the least. Somewhere in between is probably a happy compromise. But you won't find it in many parts of Europe. Maybe Australia if your liver survives what Aussies indulge most in.
I notice the French are striking today because the govt. wants to increase their retirement age with full benefits from 60 currently to 62. Attempts to raise the retirement age in Greece (some can retire as early as 50) has caused strikes in Greece. In the U.S. some in govt. are lobbying intensely to raise the age for social security to 67 or even 70. So eat, drink and be merry? Who wants to live on spinach and broccoli and prunes anyway.
Rick looks great to me. Thanks for the heads-up on the European credit card machines! Hadn't thought about that while I've been planning a trip to Austria, Northern Italy and Switzerland for next summer.
Rick, I loved the pictures. I am so glad you seem to be catching on to the wonders of Greece.
Some years ago in France I could not get gasoline for my rental car at an unmanned self-service station, because my credit card did not have that little chip. I had to wait for another customer to arrive, and gave him 100 francs in cash to have him buy my much-needed fuel for me. After that I found that American Express issued a card which contains the necessary chip and obtained one. The account is called American Express Blue. I don't use it often but it is indispensible for European travelers.
Wonder if you have pictures of some of the Roosevelt Jazz Band students that you took in Vienna. It was great to hear that they saw you when all the adults were clutching your guidebooks and quoting your wisdom. Your advice about seeing Rome in one day was perfect as we only had one day to spend there. We all loved Hvar, Croatia for some down time during the tour.
Great photos! I can't wait to see the new shows!
Steve, I have always appreciated your spirit of friendship and celebration in the face of political and economic fear. Getting out there with the "Back Door" attitude, making friends, celebrating cultures, and enjoying some great food along the way is the remedy to media-stoked fears. Here's to breathing a sigh of relief from a breeze off the Medeterranian. Thank's Steve!
Rick, My wife and I are just beginning to appreciate your efforts in making travel more enjoyable. I was "shocked" to learn of the way in which Demel cafe in Vienna disposes of their leftovers. We enjoyed the couple times we were there a couple summers ago. Keep up the good work. We have also enjoyed watching Andy and Jackie grow up as we have viewed the 80 program series over the past few months.