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Posted on by Rick Steves

Persepolis: 2300 Years Ago, Iran Was Omnipotent

Persepolis is pharaoh-like in its scale. Emperor’s tombs are cut into the neighboring mountains.
Enlarge photo		 2500 years ago, subjects of the empire (from 28 nations) would pass through the Nations’ Gate bearing gifts for the “King of Kings.”
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The tarmac laid for an aristocratic “tent city,” set up by the Shah to celebrate 2500 years of Persian empire, still survives — reminding visitors where their revolution came.
Enlarge photo		 Locals — quick to smile for the camera of a new American friend — visit Persepolis to connect with and celebrate their impressive cultural roots.
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With the sun low and the colors warm, Simon, Karel, and Rick are enjoying a great day of filming. I would say this is your PBS pledge dollars at work … but this shoot’s on me.
Enlarge photo		 Under a blistering sun, the rocks share the cool of the night.
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Europeans enjoying the greatest sight between the Holy Land and India.
Enlarge photo		 While the tourist women may have looked gawky in their scarves, I looked worse under my “script sun hat.”
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The sightseeing highlight of our ten days in Iran was the ancient Persian capital of Persepolis, what I’d consider the greatest ancient sight between the Holy Land and India. Arriving there in the middle of a vast and arid plain was thrilling. This was a rare place that actually exceeded my high expectations. My main regret in traveling through Iran on my first visit (back in 1978) was not trekking south to Persepolis. Now I’ve experienced it.

I wanted to include Persepolis in our TV special because it’s a powerful reminder that the soul of Iran is Persia, and that predates the introduction of Islam by a thousand years. Persepolis merited 450 words out of our 5400 word Iran script. Here’s my take on Persepolis as told in a bit of the rough script (hence the sequence numbers) from our upcoming TV special, which will air in early 2009. As I reread this, I can see some of the most stunning high-definition video we’ve ever shot:

[78] A 40-mile drive from Shiraz takes us to Persepolis, the dazzling capital of the Persian Empire back when it reached from Greece to India. For nearly two hundred years, from 518 BC to 333 BC, this was the home of the “King of Kings.” It was built by Darius and his son Xerxes the Great around 500 BC.

[79] It’s a big complex of palaces of the greatest kings of the day. They were so strong, no fortifications were needed. Still, 10,000 guards were permanently posted here.

[80] This is the “Nations’ Gate,” where dignitaries from the 28 nations subjugated by Persia passed in “we’re not worthy”-style to pay their taxes and humble respect to the “King of Kings,” as the emperor was called.

[81] Cuneiform inscriptions from 500 BC say the same thing in three languages. Roughly: the king is empowered by god. Submit totally to him for the good of Persia. All nations can live in peace if you are compliant.

[82] The palace of Xerxes, called the Columned Palace because it once had 72 columns, each with the uniquely Persian capital, had a precious roof of Lebanese cedar carried here all the way from the Mediterranean. Xerxes the Great defeated the Greeks and burned and pillaged Athens in 480 BC.

[83 reliefs] Beautiful carved reliefs survive throughout the ruins of Persepolis. Supplicants gracefully climb the same steps we do, bringing offerings to the king. Lions were a symbol of power. They represented the king and even the power of the seasons. In this reoccurring scene, a lion kills a bull, symbolizing spring killing winter and bringing new life. Today, Iranians still celebrate their new year on March 21, the first day of spring.

[84] The figure on the eagle’s wing, that Zoroastrian symbol, is a reminder that the king’s power came from Ahuramazda — the Zoroastrian god.

[85 Rick On Camera] Imagine this place at its zenith: the grand ceremonial headquarters of the Persian Empire. Coming here you have high expectations. Being here, they are exceeded. Iranians visit with a great sense of pride. For an American, it would be like having Monticello, Cape Canaveral, and Mount Rushmore all rolled into one magnificent sight.

[86] Grand royal tombs, the scale of Egyptian pharaohs — or Mount Rushmore — are cut into the adjacent mountainside. The awe-inspiring tombs of Darius and Xerxes come with huge carved reliefs featuring ferocious lions: even in death, they’re reminding us of their great power.

[87] But no empire lasts forever. In 333 BC Persepolis was sacked and burned by Alexander the Great, the Macedonian Greek who turned the tide against Persia. Ending Persian dominance, he spread his Greek culture all the way to India. Persepolis has been a ruin ever since.

We arrived after a long day of driving — just in time for that “magic hour” before the sun set. The light was glorious, the stones glowed rosy, and all the visitors seemed to be enjoying a special “sightseeing high.” Iranians were savoring this reminder that their nation was a huge and mighty empire 2500 years ago.

The temperature (as it does in the desert when the sun goes down) dropped dramatically. I pressed my body against the massive stone walls to feel the warmth stored in the stones. (The next morning, under a blistering sun, I hugged the same wall to catch the cool of the night that it still shared.)

I was impressed that the approach to this awe-inspiring site was marred by a vast and ugly tarmac with 1970s-era light poles. This is left from the Shah’s party celebrating the 2500 year anniversary of the Persian Empire — designed to remind the world that he ruled Persia as a modern-day Xerxes or Darius. The Shah flew in dignitaries from all over the world, along with dinner from the finest restaurants in Europe. Iranian historians consider this arrogant display of imperial wealth and Western decadence the beginning of the end for the Shah. Within about a year, he was gone and Khomeini was in. I think it’s left here so visiting locals can remember who their revolution overthrew.

I saw more Western tourists visiting Persepolis than at any other single sight in the country. They were from all over Europe and Australia — all with local guides, most with the Lonely Planet guidebook to Iran, and everyone marveling at how Iran has great tourism potential. (After the elegant way local women wear their scarves, I can’t help but notice how gawky many tourist women are in their scarves.)

Persepolis has the majesty of Giza or Luxor in Egypt. And I was most struck, not by the international tourists, but by the local people who travel here to connect with their Persian heritage. Wandering the sight, you feel the omnipotence of the Persian Empire and get a strong appreciation for the enduring strength of this culture and its people.

Comments

48 Replies to “Persepolis: 2300 Years Ago, Iran Was Omnipotent”

  1. Thanks for the blog on Iran. Information can bring understanding and we need more and more of that these days. This sounds spectacular. Pam

  2. Thanks for the awesome peek at Iran. Can’t wait until your special is televised in 2009 giving everyone the opportunity to witness the beauty of Iran and the graciousness of its people. I hope that your journey will teach narrowminded and xenophobic Americans that there is much to learn from other cultures – especially those Middle Eastern countries which have been vilified in the media and by the current administration.

  3. Great post, Rick. A trip to a a country where it is hard to seperate the fear from the facts is a great “tool” in trying to build a better world. Another great “tool” might be for everyone to get an ethnic DNA test at birth, so we automatically feel an identity with many cultures.

  4. Thanks Rick for the informative series. I am hoping for a Rick Steves Tour of Iran, I think it’s possible!!

  7. Someone wrote a few ‘blogs’ ago that the number of comments from viewer had fallen off, implying that public interest in your trip to Iran had waned. Not true! We commented less and imbibed more! Glad that your trip was completed safely and that you are now (I think) in Italy. Thanks again for bringing Iran to us.

  8. Those pictures are simply awesome. I can’t wait for the actual show. The history of Persia is one that too many schools tend to skip over.

  10. Your blogs along with the richly varied responses have generated new and deeply valuable conversations among my friends and myself. Each perspective is so genuine. I am dazzled by the tapestry of thoughts and feelings – dazzled and stunned – sometimes stopped in my tracks – challenged and encouraged, and yes, sometimes frustrated, angered, even frightened. Being a citizen of this world, and of this powerful nation, is an awesome responsibility. Thank you for bringing the joy of fellowship, the fun of being human, to the task. As long as we dare not destroy the common joys, we will be safe as we work toward solutions to the problems of being human beings that will always exist. I long for a commitment in this country (USA) to take seriously the concerns you have heard voiced specifically from the parents in the Persian culture (regarding the moral/cultural context to raise their children in) – a commitment that is so real that it compels us to rethink and reshape our moral and ethical habits. Thank you, your team, and your families for your incredible efforts and creativity.

  11. Thanks Rick. I can’t tell you how I long to go to Iran. You have inspired me once again to dare myself to travel outside of the safe, touristy hot spots.

  12. Rick: Thanks for your post and the blog in general. I served in the Peace Corps in Iran from 64-66 and visited Persepolis often. It was a wonderful experience then and, as you describe so well, a wonderful experience now. I only wish that you would have had the opportunity to be invited into an Iranian household to experience the wonderful hospitality of that culture. Also, you have missed a delicious, if subtle cuisine. Come to my house in Seattle and I will serve you a delicious Persian meal that I still can cook after 44 years. I look forward to following in your footsteps to Iran. You have been inspiring.

  13. There are a few interesting videos and renderings of what Persepolis appears to have looked like according to the scholars and archeologists who have worked there. Here are two that came up in a quick search: http://www.iraninfo.dk/persepolis-recreated-filmen-om-genskabelse-af-persepolis.html http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=305896 Two other sites that we visited when we lived in Ahwaz in 1958-60 was the ziggurat and Darius’s summer palace near Dezful. They don’t seem to be currently included in the “approved” tour destinations (my visit in Oct 2003 included the same places that you’re visiting) but I highly recommend that region in the southwest and hope to return to it…and Ahwaz…in the near future. Thanks for the great blog…I’m looking forward to the show and wish we didn’t have to wait until 2009 to see it! (Bill…How about a Persian potluck for Steve when he returns home? I’ll bring some of my favorite Persian dishes that my mother learned to prepare and served to us for the rest of her life!)

  14. Thank you for the fascinating blog. I look forward to following you adventures in Iran with interest. Two things came to mind as I read the blog: the celebration of the 2500 years of Iranian monarchy actually occurred in the early 1970s (in 1972 I believe). The Shah’s regime did not topple until 1979. So the gap in time between the two events is larger than you suggest. There is no argument, however, that ill-conceived projects such as the “anniversary” celebration were both symptomatic of the ills of the Shah’s regime as well as being conducive to his ignominious fall. The general perception of the Achaemenid rulers (the builders of Persepolis/Parsa), by those in the West, is inevitably colored by accounts of Greek chroniclers who could hardly be called un-biased–focused as these authors were on their (understandable) drive to create nationalistic propaganda to counter imperial designs by the Achaemenids. A fresh look at the empire of the Achaemenid Persians would, however, highlight the myriad ways in which this empire differed from the earlier empires of Western Asia. The theme of a “commonwealth” of subject nations acting as partners in supporting the throne of the king of kings (visually depicted at various locations in Persepolis), the idealized image of the many subject peoples bearing gifts in peace and amity in homage to the great king, and the justly-celebrated freedom of worship granted to the subjects of the king of kings were all radical departures from what had gone before and were echoed in some shape or form in many later empires. One should also note glowing accounts of Cyrus II, the founder of the empire, in the old testament and in the Greek tradition. It is for these reasons and others that Iranians have felt a deep sense of pride in their history and heritage in the intervening 25 centuries separating Iran today from the glories of Persepolis.

  17. I stumbled across your blog last week, and have added it to my Yahoo homepage. Spent some time catching up on your prior Iran blogs, and look forward eagerly to each new one. I, too, can hardly wait to see TV program. I especially like the accompanying photos–they show Iranians in a very positive light. Especially after watching a news video of Ahmxxxxxx (can’t pronounce his name either, let alone spell it!)this AM talking about annihilating Israel from the face of the earth soon. I have travelled a lot myself to countries where the top level politicians were grossly different from the general population, and each time have come home with a vastly revised opinion of the reality of a country. I am so glad you have undertaken this project. Thank you!

  18. Rick, I’ve really enjoyed reading these posts, and look forward to the show (in high def!). You’ve made me consider adding Iran to the list of countries I want to visit. I hope at some point–either here on the blog, or on the show–you’ll explain how an American can arrange to travel there. Thanks!

  19. Rick, I’ve really enjoyed reading these posts, and look forward to the show (in high def!). You’ve made me consider adding Iran to the list of countries I want to visit. I hope at some point–either here on the blog, or on the show–you’ll explain how an American can arrange to travel there. Thanks!

  20. Since my ’78 graduation from the American School Of Isfahan, I’ve been hoping to arrange a trip back to Iran. It’s too bad that Americans seem to be stuck in tours, but perhaps I’ll be able to haggle a side trip to my old house and school.

  21. I hope that your journey will teach narrowminded and xenophobic Americans that there is much to learn from other cultures – especially those Middle Eastern countries which have been vilified in the media and by the current administration. Perhaps it will, but maybe, just maybe others are narrowminded and xenophobic about Americans. I just don’t understand why it’s always Americans who are the bad guys. I LOVE to travel and appreciate other cultures, but I live HERE because it’s home and, I feel, it’s the best place to raise my family. If I didn’t like it here, I would live elsewhere. I don’t know why some people feel like they have to cut down their fellow Americans because we think we live in the best, albeit flawed, country on earth.

  22. Actually, the 2500 year old site at Persepolis isn’t “ancient” by Iranian historical standards. The ziggurat at Choqa Zanbil, built in the 13th century BC by Untash Napirisha and located near Susa, Iran. It is more than a thousand years older than Persepolis!

  24. Oh and the Sialk ziggurat, in Kashan, Iran dates back to 3000 BC – older than the Pyramids! The whole archeoligical site at Sialk is only recently discovered.

  25. Finally lets not be too hard on the old Shah. His father was the one who first encouraged archeological explorations at Persepolis, and in an attempt to legitimize his rule, the Shah did spruce up and promote the place. But he started to have delusions of grandeur.

  26. THE “SATANIC POWER” of the U.S. faces destruction and Israel will “certainly” cease to exist, said Iranian PresidentMahmoudAhmadinejadataU.N.foodsecuritysummitinRomeonTuesday,addingthat“theIranian people are the most peace-loving nation of the world.”

  29. I doubt much can be done to erase the hatred of those who find it so dear, but can we at least all agree on the exact words that were said? THE ACTUAL QUOTE IN FARSI: “Imam ghoft een rezhim-e ishghalgar-e qods bayad az safheh-ye ruzgar mahv shavad.” The full quote translated directly to English: The Imam said: “This regime occupying Jerusalem must vanish from the page of time”. Word by word translation: “Een (this) rezhim-e (regime) ishghalgar-e (occupying) qods (Jerusalem) bayad (must) az safheh-ye ruzgar (from page of time) mahv shavad (vanish from)”. Now that we all have the exact words, you can “interpret” them with your own “spin” as you wish. As some who think they are mind readers, no doubt will.

  33. Wow! My husband and I were just in Jordan (right around the same time you were in Iran) and we were talking about how cool it would be if you did a “Travels in the Middle East” series. I’m so glad you had the opportunity to do this and I can’t wait to see the show. I’ve been many places in the world, but I’ve never met more warm, friendly and kind-hearted people than in the Middle East. What’s incredibly ironic (and I hope not lost on our political leaders) is that the only other place where I’ve encountered such wonderful people is right here at home in America…we’re more alike than we know.

  34. Thank you, Rick, so much for the slideshow and the blog! I am so looking forward to your ‘new season’ and more footage of Iran. I am so envious of all you have seen. – Could you not have used another person to carry a suitcase or some equipment? I would have been ready in a second!

  36. Terry, RE: Your June 5th post. Despite your derisive comments there is still a lot of controversy over how to best translate his infamous speech. Here’s the problem – it’s difficult to agree on exactly what he said when translating to English. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahmoud_Ahmadinejad_and_Israel#2005_.22World_Without_Zionism.22_speech Before you start ridiculing others please realize that not all things are black and white. You seem to have a fair amount of malice judging by your post.

  37. Bravo, I was in Iran two years ago, and I loved every minute of it. I never felt so safe and so welcome! If ever one day you would like to visit Iran again, you are welcome in our home in Tehran. We live in CA, but we always need an excuse to visit Iran.Thank you for a wonderful slideshow and the blog.

  38. It excited me to hear you talk about Iran on The World while I was on the way to the Post Office. The Clerk I often talk to took down the information to check your blog. I thought her children might enjoy it. Turns out they are 21, 18 and 14. When you talked about the Shah’s celebration of the 2500 anniversary of Persia I wished you had included the date. The date he was overthrown is not ready to my memory. Maybe 1978 or 79. I just hope neither Israel nor the US bombs Iran. A country can’t have nuclear power enriched uranium. That all nuclear power plants are plutonium factories is a problem to be solved.

  39. Your foray to Iran was inspired, and perhaps one to Syria should be considered as well. Friends of mine who have traveled to Iran and Syria have met with friendliness and charm. Sensational history and architecture make both countries vital stops on the road to understanding the history of the Middle East.

  40. My husband and I visited Iran in 2006. It was as such ‘searching for our roots’ since our ancestors migrated to India from Iran, after the Arab invasion and the onset of Islam, to preserve their ancient Zoroastrian religion. Our religion and our people have flourished in India but we just fell in love with Iran. We found it’s beauty varied and breathtaking and the people curious, courteous and friendly. We want to keep on going there again and again.

  41. You should have also visited Naqsh-e-Rustom and Taq-e-Bostan to learn more about the Achamenid and Sassanian Zoroastrian Kings. The history of that era which is carved on the sheer mountain face is mind-bogling.

  42. Very nice work Rick. I enjoyed it very much. I am Persian and my parents are from Fars (Shiraz). We always appreciate informative and positive perception of our home country!

  43. Rick, Seeing the picture of you with your sunburned face under your “script hat” immediately made me want to write to you and suggest that you buy a Tilley hat and wear it. The wide brim offers great sun protection and the grommets give air flow through the top. A great travel hat!

  44. Thanks Rick! As a Persian Girl who is living near Perspolise, I am glade that you can clear to everyone that there is no ganger to travel here. Someone who has political related must be afraid to go around the world, not just Iran. You can be in ganger anywhere and anytime even in your home in USA. Then please open your eyes and enjoy the life. Nazi

  45. Rick, my family and I are so grateful to you for visiting Iran with an open mind, and sharing your perspective with others. My husband is of Iranian heritage, so my children and I are privileged to be able to visit Iran with Iranian passports, as visited about the time you returned, and this trip we visited Persepolis and shrines and historical sites near to Shiraz. Incredible! We have slightly divergent opinions about a few things, but that’s what makes life interesting. :-) For example, we disagree with you about the food, but we also regret that you were served primarily in restaurants; the best food is served in private homes. (The lavosh bread is kept in plastic if not eaten immediately to keep it from drying out so quickly, by the way.) We were surprised this trip to see that the manteau’s many young women wore in Tehran and Shiras were quite form-fitting, and I felt quite frumpy in comparison wearing the baggy manteau I had taken with me. I was also surprised to see that in the private homes, women’s necklines often go a little low. When an unrelated male comes into the home, however, every woman quickly composes herself into a more acceptable covering, possibly grabbing a manteau or other cover, and some grab a scarf as well. They also suddenly become quite demure and sophisticated in behavior. That’s probably the behavior that you observed. We traveled in Iran in 1984-85, when the country’s infrastructure felt broken after the revolution, and many times since. Like you, we have always been welcomed warmly in Iran by absolute strangers, despite the political climate. I have shopped there and visited with people and never felt at a disadvantage for being a woman. The women I have met, in business and among my husband’s family, do not give me the impression of being disadvantaged, either. It has been a difficult thing to explain to people, however. Thank you for your part in bringing greater awareness.

  46. I watched this journey through Iran on PBS this morning…just happened to be up before dawn. What a wonderful treat! As a Bahai from the US I grieve for my Bahai brothers and sisters who are denied civil rights – education, work, freedom to praise God/Allah in their own way. Even young children are persecuted, many languish in prison, and the history of executions is well documented. Our holy places in Tehran and Shiraz have been excavated, even our burial places. Yet, the spirit of Baha’u’llah hovers above Persia and will not disappear with the fate of His followers EVER. We are not a threat to Islam in that we are taught to embrace all of his God’s messengers, including Mohammed. I yearn to travel about Iran the way you did, Rick. I would gladly wear a veil and travel with Iranian women in order to do this. Someday….. My ancestors came from Great Britain in the 17th century, but my spiritual home is along the path of Baha’u’llah: Iran, Iraq, Turkey, Palestine/Israel.

  47. What important information….Because if the GREEKS made it all the way to INDIA….where do we thinnk JESUS went while we was gone for so long? Good thought, Sharing good inspirational TV Rich STEVES FANTASTIC really good….anything we can do within CANADA’s WEST COAST know you have someone who will want to help…ANY way I can serve! MUCH love and laughter, PETER SAMMARCO http://www.Healyourself.ca

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