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| Istanbul is digging a tunnel from Europe to Asia under the Bosphorus. Enlarge photo |
I’m done filming the last three TV shows of our new series (Denmark, Copenhagen, and Istanbul). Tomorrow my producer Simon flies home with the precious tapes. I just gave Simon my second bag (with my printer and extra wardrobe in it), getting me down to my usual light load. I’m heading for the airport — within a couple hours, I’ll be deep into Amsterdam guidebook research.
Driving along the coast in the taxi to the airport, I scan the Bosphorus. A hundred freighters fill the sea — a commotion of ships that reminds me of the force of the D-Day landings. Each is filled with cargo for thriving economies. Many are escorted by tough little tugs. One by one, they enter this maritime bottleneck, fueling this city of 15 million.
In the middle of the strait is a construction site — an industrial-strength pontoon island with heavy machinery digging down, and then out. Istanbul is well on its way to constructing its Bosphorus tunnel. I trace the city’s horizon, from the misty minarets spiking up from the old town, to a distant skyline of modern suburbs where tourists never venture — a forest of modern skyscrapers in league with Shanghai’s.
Yesterday we needed a better spot for our show’s opening shots. We had a reasonable one from the Galata Bridge, but it showed charming old fishermen and tour boats. Instead, I wanted to somehow capture the historic crossroads and contemporary might of this city.
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| Climbing with the camera crew to the rooftop of a toy store, we found a spot that showed off Istanbul as the churning metropolitan powerhouse where east meets west. Enlarge photo |
Site selection had led to frustration. Mentally scanning all possible angles, it hit me: We needed a high-wide shot, almost an aerial, showing the freighter-filled Bosphorus just where it’s met by the Golden Horn inlet, with the teeming Galata Bridge, lumbering commuter ferries churning up the port, and a huge nondescript mosque in the foreground (we didn’t want to show the city’s icons — the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia — so early in the show).
We went to the spot I envisioned (above the “New Mosque,” near the famous Spice Market) and surveyed the zone. We spotted a restaurant with a shaded roof terrace, and went to check it out. It was perfect…except that as I spoke into the camera, there was no necessary sun on me. Next door, however, we noticed a toy company with offices that had a small open terrace. It was exactly what we needed. They welcomed us onto their roof and brought us tea. Grabbing a calm moment between the gusts, I gave my lines:
“Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities, period. For thousands of years, this point where East meets West has been the crossroads of civilizations. Few places on Earth have seen more history than this sprawling metropolis on the Bosphorus.”
Then we taxied to Ortaköy, a trendy café scene at the edge of town — too far away for tourists. It sits in the shadow of a Baroque mosque and one of the mighty modern bridges that cross the Bosphorus, lacing Asia and Europe together.
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| In Istanbul, where an awe-inspiring suspension bridges connects Europe and Asia, a modern skyline is emerging. Enlarge photo |
I wanted to get more interaction on camera between me and the locals, and this was perfect — a gang of four charming young Turks joined me to pass around a hookah (big water pipe), sip chai, and play backgammon. Backgammon is the perfect way to create a jolly conviviality with new friends. At the neighboring table, we filmed two sisters — one secular and the other wearing a colorful but conservative Muslim head scarf — chatting as they passed the mouthpiece of their big water pipe. (I hoped this might make both a big water pipe and a scarved Muslim woman less scary to the more insular of my American viewers.)
Then, with the sun low and the chop of the Bosphorus carbonating the scene, I stepped out onto the ferry landing to film the closing shots of the show. The frilly mosque cut the harsh diagonal created by the mighty bridge reached for Asia. Just as a ship entered the frame, I looked into the lens and said:
“Like its bridge, Istanbul brings East and West together. With a complex weave of modern affluence, Western secularism, and traditional Muslim faith, it’s a dynamic and stimulating city, well worth a visit. Thanks for joining us. I’m Rick Steves. Until next time…keep on travelin’.”
Reaching the airport, I tip the taxi — selfishly holding back just enough local lira for a coffee. Enjoying a rare break with my iPod, I listen to Amy Winehouse (“They wanna make me go to Europe, I say yes…yes…yes”) while drifting through all the lines, immersed in the sea of people traveling. An old woman weeps as the security line slowly swallows up her son, with a reaching grandson in his arms. Water and shoes are okay to take through security here — but my watch and belt need to come off. With a thump, my passport is stamped.
In the terminal, I see the big green welcome of a Starbucks, and feel thankful that I no longer have to choose either Turkish coffee or Nescafé. I have 6.05 Turkish lire. A grande latte costs 6.25 (nearly $5). I beg. The Turkish barista says, “No problem.” I’m so happy — the frugal traveler is triumphant, leaving the country with exactly no local currency.
Nursing a good American latte, head buried in my Amsterdam book, I transcribe feedback notes into my work copy of the guidebook. Thinking back, I’m amazed how out of Turkey I already am — ready for the Netherlands.
Ha on the coffee…I’ve been living in Bavaria for the past month and my wife was dying for Starbucks (we moved from Olympia, WA). So I programmed the 3 Starsbucks locations into the GPS, drove an hour to Nuremberg, and all the Starsbucks were located in the city center, meaning there was absolutely no way I could find a parking spot. Obviously we miss the Starbucks drive-throughs in the states, but Germany is great nonetheless.
You paint such a wonderful picture of Istanbul, in a city of 15 million it appears that all is almost perfect, you do not write about any run down areas or anything negative at all, I cannot wait to visit this city. Reading Jackie’s blog has been wonderful, her young viewpoints make for fun reading, however, you wrote about Andy’s writings. The last I remember you were sitting in a restaurant reading his memoirs, Italy, Bulgaria, side trips and a cruise of the Agean. Many of us are waiting to read this blog, will it be posted soon?
Have a safe trip to Amsterdam. I like Starbucks traveling abroad. Makes me feel more at home. :)
I was in Istanbul last year. I was lucky enough to be there for the start of Ramadan. What a truly exciting experience.As soon as the sun set, the parks and streets in the old town exploded with festive activity. Istanbul hits all your senses…all at once. Thanks for blogging Rick! Garret
Near St. Sophia Mosque there’s a block or so of wooden row houses that look like they belong in San Francisco. We talked to some people who were just leaving one building, and they told us the houses were originally built by an English Company, for their workers. The buildings have been remodeled, and now serve as a hotel. We went to visit Topkapi, the huge palace where 4,000 people once lived and worked. Didn’t find it too appealing, at least not as interesting as the other things we saw in Istanbul. The building was not nearly as interesting as many of the castles and palaces we have seen in Northern Europe. We were here in 1989, nearly 20 years ago, and were told that apartments or houses along the Bosporus can rent for as much as $10,000 per month, while in a more normal location an apartment will rent for more like $200. It’s considered a status symbol to have a large chandelier in a home, and as we rode through Istanbul on the bus the other night, we could see plenty of them through large windows in homes, and in stores with a couple of floors with large windows, with fabulous chandeliers on display. d
Rick, You had me ’til Starbucks. I must admit I’m a tad bit disappointed that you go there when abroad. Everything else about this post and about Istanbul in general sounds amazing. Thanks for bringing people off the beaten path to “scary” places like Istanbul and showing how friedly it is.
Hello Rick! I’ve been a fan of yours since my childhood (I’m 26 now). I used to watch your show on Saturday mornings instead of cartoons – my sister wasn’t so crazy about that set up. My husband and I did our own version of your Best of Europe trip last summer over 23 days. Sometimes I still can’t believe we did it! Your guidebook was our bible (I have pictures of me clutching it close to prove it!). We stayed at Boogaard’s B&B in Amsterdam since all of your suggestions were booked. If you want to add a wonderful place to stay that was not expensive but very homey, check it out while you are there! Thanks again for all the travel dreams you gave me, and the ability to make them reality!
You make a good point about Ortaköy and meeting the locals, but then it sounds like you are discouraging a visit because it’s “too far away for tourists”. I travel to Istanbul frequently on business and cumulatively spent about 35 weeks there before I ever stayed in the Sultanhamet tourist area. 95% of the time I have stayed in one of the 5-star hotels around Taksim. To me, while the tourist area has important sights that are worth seeing, it is not the “real” Istanbul. To get a flavor for the locals, you need to cross the Golden Horn or ferry across the Bosphorus – even only if it is for dinner and a night out. Taxis are great for this, but for the budget minded the Metro is a good option as they keep extending the lines. Istanbul has so many world-class restaurants, it is amazing. Ortaköy is great for food and people watching. One of my favorite Ortaköy memories was shortly after the current Iraq war started. A group of my colleagues (mostly German, one Brit, and an American – me) had eaten dinner and ducked into a cozy little bar that had some live music. The music was Turkish, the crowd was definitely local, and our group was enjoying our drinks and having a good time. A gentleman at the table next to me asked where we were from – I told him – pausing a bit after saying “USA – is that OK?” He laughed and said “Yes, we love America. Welcome to Istanbul.” I think he may have even bought us a round of raki. I’ve never encountered any anti-Americanism in Istanbul. Only very kind, friendly people (assuming you have the right attitude – loud, demanding, insensitive type A personalities will probably not be received well). Neighborhoods where locals hang out include the Taksim, Besiktas, Ortaköy (some great outdoor nightclubs in the summer just north of the cafe area), Ulus, and Bagdat road on the Asian side.